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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • any help on 1991 mazda 626, screeching noise while acclerating?
  • Belts maybe? What engine and transmission?
  • 626town626town Posts: 7
    well my mass air flow went bad on my 94 626 and my coil (about $55.00 )at the same time. A mazda dealer fixed that problem for me. After other mechanics couldn`t`t. look at your engine while it`s running,in a dark garage.If you see a blue fog like light around your coil and ignition wires , well thats your problem.
  • rangerlgrangerlg Posts: 2
    Sometimes when I am driving my 2000 626, the air conditioner will stop blowing cold. Wheni t does this, my idle will be real high (above 2000 RPM). I can actually begin to go in 1st gear without putting my foot on the gas (I ha a manual). I have 99,000 miles on this car. Is this my compressor going out or maybe something simple. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    A vacuum leak could cause those symptoms. Check for any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    A malfunctioning A/C relay could cause these problems. Looks like your A/C compressor clutch does not get current all the time (this is why A/c blows hot occasionally.

    Another possible reason for intermittent A/C malfunction is contamination of the A/C compressor clutch harness connector. this connector is located directly below the coolant overflow bottle. I had this problem with my 99 626 V6. The collant bottle had a slow leak along the bottom seam. How coolant got into A/C compressor clutch harness connector and contaminated ti. My A/C would work intermittently until it finally quit. Replacing the bottle and cleaning the connector fixed the problem for good. I also had an A/C relay fail once. the cost of the relay is about $ 26.
  • steamer1steamer1 Posts: 1
    !st how to instal a water pump belt on a mazda 626. 2nd why I have had problems with the length of time the water pump belt lasts only 2 months the last one
  • sd01sd01 Posts: 1
    Clean or replace the idle air control (IAC) motor/valve. It's a stepping motor that manages idle and benefits driveability. When inspecting this part, be sure not to lose any gasket/o-ring used for installation.

    Another possiblity is that your throttle position sensor (TPS) is going bad somewhere in its travel.
  • Howdy... For the second time in about 2 months, my 2001 Mazda 626 ES V6 has had difficulty starting. Once it was a cold start, the second time was warm, but the symptom was the same. On the first attempt, the car starts, but then the engine abruptly stops after a few seconds. With numerous attempts, the engine turns over but doesn't catch. Then, after 20-30 minutes it starts up fine and is able to start ok numerous times subsequently. Any ideas on the problem/solution? Fuel injection?
  • hahnsolohahnsolo Posts: 1
    I just bought a used mazda 626 at 61k miles.
    Recently the check engine light would flicker on and off depending if i turned a corner hard or hit a bump.

    Now i took the car on the xpress way and now it wont go off. Anyone ever have this problem? Suggestions?

    I just had the car inpected and oil changed with no problems
  • crsmithcrsmith Posts: 1
    My 97 626 4 cyl 5 spd will sometimes not start in the morning. It cranks at a normal rate but will not start. When it first happened and was towed into the shop, they replaced the fuel pressure regulator and changed the oil and spark plugs. When it happened again, a week later, we had the battery replaced since it was due. It wouldn't start last Sunday morning at first, but we were able to get it started a couple of hours later. Once it starts for the day, it's fine. When it starts, it runs great. Any ideas?

    I don't know if it's related, but occasionally I've noticed the tach dropping to 0 for a second then back up again while driving on the highway.
  • man_human_hu Posts: 1
    I've got the same problem on 94 626 GLXI (french appelation i presume. Yes i'm french in france)
    Tonight i've been in a dark place an effectively ther's some light on the ignition wires.
    I think i will command them tomorow.
    Today i've change the coil and it's not good. In France it's cost 75€ (almost 80 us$).
    I've found this very expensive. :cry:
  • pteezypteezy Posts: 3
    Well.. i bought this car.. and its nice but its got a bad tranny.. errors in 2nd and 4th gear and an overheating issue ( had the computer scanned) and it idles really high when cold and really low after.. vibrates alot and when u roll down the window or somethin it gets worse... any suggestions.. new tranny or rebuild?
  • rangerlgrangerlg Posts: 2
    I am looking at changing the AC clutch on my 626. I am scanning the parts sites and it has listing for three different bearings. Do I need all these bearing for my clutch? I can't seem to find an already assembled clutch to just replace. Also, is this a real tough job? I assume I will have to pull the belts to access the clutch. I was going to change then out anyway. Thanks for the help.
  • bshabazzbshabazz Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1995 Mazda 626 4 cyl, about 3 months ago. About a month after I had it, the water pump started leaking anti-freeze. Found out the water pump was the oldest thing on the car (last owner kept all records of maintenance). My Dad recently replaced my leaking water pump with a brand new pump, and brand new thermostat. When I bought the car, the timing belt was just replaced so my Dad did not replace that. After about a week, my water pump leaks again from the same area. I'm not sure if it is the water pump itself or if it is a hose that anti-freeze is leaking from, but one thing is for definite is that it leaks, once again! Do you know what he might have done wrong for a brand new pump to leak so fast again? He put sealant around the pump and everything and it's still leaking. Do you think it may be a hose or something? Thanks for the help.
  • i'm trying to replace the drive axles on an '87 626 for my roommate. i've done this on my hondas... to do this, i've popped the tie rod joint, and removed the bolt snugging the ball joint to the hub, but can't seem to get the ball joint to separate fully from the hub. is there something i'm missing? i've used a LOT of leverage, applying downward pressure on the control arm while hitting it with a hammer to try to pop it... it slid about halfway out, slowly, with a LOT of hammering, but now doesn't move. my honda ball joint popped easily - almost exactly like the tie rod joint. any help??

    sincere appreciation!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It probably has some rust buildup on the stud of the ball joint. First, give it a good dose of PB Blaster penetrating oil. Then to get extra leverage, bolt a chain around the outer end of the control arm forming a loose loop. Slide the bar through the chain until the inner end of the bar is at the control arm pivot. Should give enough leverage to pop the ball joint loose. Also, make sure the outer edge of the control arm isn't catching on the brake rotor splash shield when you pry it down.
  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    I have an american version 94 ATX here in Greece and the CEL comes on. It used to come on only under load (uphill accelerating etc)I have installed xternal trans cooler and now it comes on at lower speeds and occasionally stays on till I come to a stop. It has ford EEC IV and I drew codes using jumper from sti and sto and retrieved 159 118 119 possibly 181. I cleared the codes and am back in USA now.It is difficult to read the codes and I am not certain about a few of them but almost positive that the 159 is accurate. Also when running car (parked) to warm it up pre testing, it is almost impossible to maintain 2000 rpm . Get near 2000 then surges to 2500 and then when I try to back off it drops back to 1500. Maybe that will mean something to you guys? I think it is prolly MAF or O2 sensor but would like to find a inexpensive tool to read the codes accurately. I do not want to change parts randomly. Car has 55k on it and went thru CEL light to Hold light progression 3 years ago and had tranny rebuilt prolly unnecessarily. After rebuild mechanic ordered a sensor and all was fine for 20 months or so. He does not remember what part he changed and Mazda does not keep records back to 2001 I thought it was MAF but Mazda said they never sold that sensor without entire housing It cost $59.45 from Mazda Feb 15th 2001 Aside from light car drives fine.I am concerned what will happen when it gets warm in Greece. Maybe nothing
  • Thanks! using your advice, i successfully separated the ball joint. =)

    i'm now trying to remove the old brake disc to replace it. it has 4 bolts holding it to the spindle/hub from the back side. there is an opening on the back large enough to get an open ended wrench in, but these bolts are on GOOD, and i fear that i'm going to strip them before they come loose. i've used some P.O. and tried a deep angle box end wrench, but can't get it around the head of the bolt with so little room.

    i have a manual for MY car, but this is my roommates, and i'm just trying to help him out. any (more) advice will again be sincerely appreciated! =)

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    My info shows it's a captive rotor. You'll have to remove the steering knuckle/hub/rotor assembly and take it to a machine shop with a press to disassemble it. Might also require a new wheel bearing as they tend to separate when pressing the hub out.
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