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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • i need help with this code car is un able to pass smog untill i resolve this issue. any help would be great.
  • 5ddjjh5ddjjh Posts: 4
    whatever happened with your 626, was the engine fried? yesterday i was driving my 99 626 with 200,000 on it and on entering the freeway and accelerating to highway speed it suddenly lost power and will hardly go. i checked with just answer and they think it is the catalytic convertor. just curious to your findings, the symptoms are somewhat similar.
  • zedzzedz Posts: 2
    Hi all. I am a newbie here and need a bit of help. Last night driving down the m6 doing 70mph my cambelt broke. AA got me back home and said the cambelt had boke and at 70 mph the possibility of the valves being bent were very high and the repair cost could be as high as the value of the car itself. Is this true due to the bank holiday i cant get it to the garage for a while. Bought my 2000 model diesel for £2K year and a half ago and no probs at all till now. read somewhere if its a non interferance engine it may be ok have no idea what this means but is it true. sorry for the essay but any help is appreciated.

    cheers
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,356
    Unfortunately I don't have specs on UK models and we don't have this engine in the USA.

    But yes, if it is a non-interference engine that you're okay. Basically "interference" means that the pistons, going up and down, are timing by the timing belt NOT to hit the valves, which are above the pistons and also going up and down. Rather like a clockwork. However, on an interference engine, should this "timing" be interrupted by breakage of the belt, the pistons, still spinning, will indeed hit the valves, also still spinning from momentum---even though the valves and pistons are no longer connected by the timing belt.

    The reason for interference design is to give a lower engine profile and I would imagine longer piston stroke.

    You can't rely on AA to give you accurate info. You need to go to a qualified garage or contact a Mazda dealer about this.

    If the valves are bent, you do have a considerable expense to bear---the head must come off, new valves installed, etc. It's generally not about a "whole new engine"---not that drastic, but still here in the states this could be a $1500 job, no problem.

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  • zedzzedz Posts: 2
    Thanks or the reply. Due to bank holday here its a major problem getting a mechanic to look at it. I work 7 miles from home no bus and taxis are expensive and because i just started cant take time off work. will try to ring both the garage and mazda tomorrow to see if they can give me advise before i know if i have to scrap the car. Sad really.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,356
    Well not all modern engines are interference and perhaps the diesel needn't be. Do let us know.

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  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Question about the EGR passage cleaning. I just did this to resolve low EGR flow CEL. Cleaned out throttle body and passages, and replaced gasket. Put everything back together, reconnected battery, and started car. Car is idling a little rough now, and is making a squealing sound when idling and when under light throttle. The gasket I used is a Mazda part, and I tightened all 4 throttle bolts very tight. I had to scrape the old gasket off. Any ideas on what is causing the squealing sound, which to me sounds like an air leak? Is it possible I did not put the gasket on correctly?? I would love to see a good pic of a gasket installed correctly, but so far have non found one anywhere. Thanks for any suggestions :)
  • askperryaskperry Posts: 19
    Squealing might be your belt(s) slipping because of the rough idle. The rough idle might be because of a loose vacuum hose. I don't have this model 626, but there are normally lots of vacuum hoses on and around the EGR valve.
  • dixiedcdixiedc Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Mazda 626 that makes a clunking sound when you take off from a stopped position and when you change gears.
  • pc2129pc2129 Posts: 1
    I have a 626 es 2001 4cyl 2.0 manual, here's my problem. my battery light turned on, It's been on for about two weeks now... I suspect the alternator, is there any other possibility? I
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Follow-up. Squealing sound was caused by carbon debris that had fallen into the EGR tubes as I cleaned out the main ports inside the throttle body. I opened the throttle body back up, shot some more cleaner down in the tubes, took car out and drove it for a while and squeal is gone. Idle is also back to normal and car is running well. Next on list to do is replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Always something!!
  • Got a friend that had his oil pump go out. Motor is knocking like an old Singer Sewing Machine.

    Does anyone know if any axles or the transmission are in the way of removing the oil pan?

    This will depend on whether or not the car gets fixed.
  • ihave 1996 mazda 626 my clutch is all thw way to the floor does it have a clutch cable ? What could be the problem it will ot go in gear.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,356
    Probably a failed clutch slave or clutch master cylinder. There's no cable.

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  • Have looked for crank position sensor, but cannot locate. I was told it was near serpentine belt and wire harness comes up near manifold ??? Not there. Anyone???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,356
    I don't think that car uses a CPS, which would explain perfectly why you can't find it!

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  • Hi
    It seems i have the exact same problem as you have.....since my battery went flat the idling is rough...to say the least!
    Did you find a solution?
    John.
  • Well, that explains that! Then my next question is ,why will it run for 45 mins then quit? Won't restart until couple of hrs later. Tank clean, new sock, pump working,, I'm at a loss. Great running when running
  • Hi Guys

    MY wifes Mazda 626lxa (1994 atx ) overheated last week in Greece. We costantly check the water level from the plastic reserve tank and it is always full, or we top it off.

    After car overheated she brought it to a mechanic who said we must check by opening radiator cap while cold , once a month and and see if it is really full. He said with age water does not circulate properly between actual radiator and reserve tank. He compared it to hardening of the arterys in people. He also said bubbles can flow in the line and stop the water from passing

    He drained all the coolant, refilled it and said keep an eye on it . Lo and behold after an aprrox 200 fairly high speed (80MPH ) mile trip in hot weather , she opened the actual radiator and it is a little low , while the reserve tank is showing completely full.
    Is there a hose that connects the reserve/ overflow tank(plastic) to the actual radiator that could be the cause.

    What else can cause this problem in a 15 year old car .
    I am presently in the States and am trying to diagnose the problem with your help from afar.
    Thanks
  • Please go file it at http://www.autosafety.org/fileacomplaint/

    Something needs to be done about how poorly this car was made and the people who have been made to suffer for investing in Mazda. I will never buy from them again.
  • Yes, there's a pipe (usually a hose) linking the plastic reserve tank to the radiator, and it might have been blocked, though, this is rarely the case.

    Most overheating problems in 626s arise from wiring problems with d cooling fan(s) (e.g. burnt out wires) or blocked radiator cells (usually from accumulation of sludge over time due to filling with dirty water).

    To prevent overheating, always be sure that your cooling fans are indeed working whenever u switch on d car engine. If ur engine still overheats with d fans working, ur radiator cells may be clogged. Finally, if u've had ur radiator removed and d cells cleaned out at a mechanic's, and ur car still overheats, d source is definitely from excessive friction within d engine block. U might need to change ur oil, filter and spark plugs.

    I,m certain by d time u've tried all these, ur car will b just o.k.
  • These cars are also known for the coolant tank developing a leak at the bottom. I have replaced the tank on my daughter's '99 model twice in the past 3 years. Both developed cracks on the bottom in the seam of the plastic tank. First indicator of a problem was overheating, especially when stopped at traffic lights.
  • i WAS GOING DOWN THE INTERSTATE AND THE MOTOR STOPPED PULLING. BY THE TIME I COASTED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD THE ENGINE DIED AND WOULDN'T START. I HAVE HAD FRIENDS TELL ME THAT IT'S TIMING BELT. COULD THIS BE TRUE? AND I ALSO HAVE A MAJOR OIL LEAK INSIDE THE TIMING COVER THAT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHERE IT'S COMING FROM.
  • Yes, a timing belt failing will cause the engine to die. but there are lots of other things can cause the engine to stop. Top things that come to mind are, dead battery, failed alternator, alternator belt breaking, ignition coil failing, spark plug wire to ignition coil failing, overheating, engine fuse blowing and of course running out of gas.
  • Once on a freeway my mazda 626 1999 model car all of sudden died, in such a way that dash board lights and all electrical functions went dead and the car comes to a complete halt. This was simply due to a dead fuse, but the mechanic charged me $600 US$ and at that time I was not sure. My car was coming from a hot environment and then into a sudden cold and was probably running for 2 days continuously, and that could have contributed to this. So do make sure that it is not the fuse.
  • bt100bt100 Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    As far as the EGR flow issue, this is a very common problem with these cars. It is caused by carbon build-up in the throttle body. There are 2 small ports that go to the EGR valve that get clogged and must be cleaned out by hand. You have to open up he throttle body to get to them. You will need to purchase a throttle body gasket before you do this, as you will destroy the one in place. They are cheap. Also get some throttle body cleaner to spray into the ports. Following is a link that explains it, including some pics: http://forums.mazdaworld.org/index.php?showtopic=13174&st=0

    If the EGR is stopped up bad enough, it might be fooling your computer system and making the tranny shift higher, maybe. Were any codes present indicating a tranny problem?

    If the timing belt has not replaced, I highly recommend getting this done. Do you know any maintenance history on your car?

    Brake light could just be low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder. Check the brake fluid levels.
  • you said the car is 15 years old and it overheated then maybe it's possible the head gasket has blown
  • lon8lon8 Posts: 1
    Where is the thermostat located on a 2000 626 e s?
  • runo4hruno4h Posts: 1
    I do not have an answer yet. I came inside after a ride in my wonderful 1999 626 that I love so much and have left parked for the last month, and decided to google my problem. Basicly we have the same complaints. Not sure what the rotors had to do with an idle problem. :) I left the car with a mechanic for a month before and had to go pick it up because some people don't see the reasoning in repairing a 10 year old car. I absolutely love my car!! When I graduate from college I'm buying a Mazda 6. I'm going to take some of the the suggested solutions to another mechanic this weekend and I'll let you know if I get it repaired. Good luck and post a reply if you get yours fixed!
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