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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    I've been experiencing the same rattle/vibration at low speeds for about a week. I recently had my muffler and back pipe replaced a month ago, so I know that is not the cause. I only hear the noise when I first start up my car until I am at about 35 mph. I don't know if it it goes away or if at the higher speed I just can't hear it, but it seems to disappear after the car has been running for a while. It is difficult to tell where the sounds is originating, but it seems to be more in the front.
  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    You probably already have the answer, but my 98 was stalling all the time as well. I had the PCV valve replaced and no more issues.
  • jamohjamoh Posts: 1
    I have my 626, 108K. Recently, I had crank-no-start issues. Sporadically. Like first try = cranks, no start. second try, starts right up. Happened maybe 3 or 4 times over the course of a month. Last Monday, crank and crank and crank, wouldn't start all day. Had it towed to a non-dealer service center. They said that the fuel pump is working, as in getting voltage, but that it's not getting the command to pump fuel. But otherwise it was working normally, because it was pressurizing, etc. The guys there said they couldn't find an electrical wiring diagrams that matched my car, apparently they changed a few times, and my car matches none of the diagrams they could find. They couldn't solve it, but called me the next day with the car starting up fine, 100% of the time. Went to pick up the car, and as it was almost dusk, turned on the headlights -- headlight relay just chirps/buzzes, won't turn on. Thinking the headlight relay is fairly simple, I traded the relay with the horn, as they are both the same part number. Horn still works, Lights still don't -- the relay just hums and buzzes. Odd indeed.

    The next day, starts fine, headlights work fine. Techs are stumped.

    I then recalled about a month ago, my wife reported that the airbag light was flashing when she drove the car. Next time I drove it, it was not. Then one day it did, and it was a 3-7 code. My limited search capabilities for finding the meaning of this lead me to believe it was irregular voltage detected on the passenger side module. (If anyone has the exact meaning, please advise.) But that went away and has not come back either.

    Long story short, I continue to have these intermittent, seemingly unrelated issues, that are various degrees of severity (can't drive the car at night without headlights, can't drive at all with it not starting, but can drive with a warning light occasionally).

    Some posts point to these lead back to something as generic as the alternator going bad, and not putting out enough current. I'm tempted to believe that, because windings do go bad, but I've never had a dead battery issue.

    Talking to the Mazda dealer, he wants to change the fuel pump and swap out the relays. I think this is short-sighted though. It's treating the symptoms, not treating the problem.

    So, along the lines of a pre-failed alternator, could this be something as simple as a bad ground somewhere too? Any similar stories to correlate here or advice is appreciated greatly.
  • just replaced my slave and master cylinders for my clutch. still not getting any pressure.doesn't seem like it is taking any fluid from the reservoir. any suggestions? 1996 Mazda 626 4-cylinder
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    edited February 2010
    Two things "right off of the bat": One: The hydraulic system ie master cylinder, line/lines from it to the slave cylinder, as well as the slave cylinder must be "bled" of all air in them. Usually one can have an assistant pump or press up and down on the clutch pedal, while the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder is opened, or loosened (while the pedal is held down) letting air mixed with fluid out,you can use a piece of rubber brake line going to a tin can to catch the old fluid mixed with air coming out, or a rag if you wish, and then closed or tightened BEFORE the pedal is allowed up so as not to draw any air back in. It is good to pump the pedal two or three times before it is held down to build pressure up before holding it down to open the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. This process is repeated numerous times, but stopped to top off the master cylinder(clutch) with brake or clutch fluid (same thing basically) so IT DOES NOT GO DRY THEREBY ALLOWING AIR BACK INTO THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. Usually this is complete with one or two topping offs of the master cylinder when it is roughly half empty.
    Second: The clutch must also be adjusted properly, ie, not too much freeplay, nor too tight that it will wear out the release bearing, and or cause the clutch to slip.
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Just a random thought, but are the cables to the battery and the connections to the battery still good? Was having an issue with my daughter's '99, including flickering headlights. Finally would not start. Jumped it off enough to get to auto parts place. tested battery and it was bad. Replaced it. Hook up cables, car would not even begin to start. Bottom line was the negative connection, though it looked good, was not actually tightening on the negative battery post. Also explains battery going bad as I am sure it was not getting a charge off of alternator.
  • zoevzoev Posts: 2
    Hi... i recently bought a nice 99 626 automatic. love it, however, i got in an accident. replaced the front fender, driver side doors, signl, etc. had to replace driver side control arm, and adjust the frame for various noise. anyhow, now its almost perfect, but...
    after an alignment 3 wks ago, this clicking/binding noise in the drivers side wheel (?) is freaking me out. it happens only when i hit a bump/pothole or when im turning hard to the left. it sounds like a ball joint or god only knows.
    my mechanic took off the wheel and tightened and checked everything after driving with me briefly. sees nothing. also, sometimes i "feel" the noise in the brake pedal. does that make sense? any ideas? my mechanic said its probably this hard rubber piece that supports the axle or something when the car bounces up and down. thanx! ;)
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I would almost definitely say that your front axle is damaged from the accident. If you can "feel" the noise in the brake pedal, the axle is front wheel drive, and will send input into the brakes. It could have been worn, and then damaged more in the accident, even though it apparently works, it could be damaged or bent or both.
    The worst case is that the transaxle is damaged as well. But try to get the front axle replaced first.
  • I'm working on my wife's '96 626 ES, and I've found a NEW problem. To begin with, it munched its' alternator belt. I had to remove the entire idler pulley [non-permissible content removed]'y to make it function properly as the adjustment bolt had been shouldered off...'yummy'(or not). I put all the cookies back in the jar (+new pulley) and put on the belt and tensioned it per manual's instruction. I let it idle for a few, all was good. I checked everything again before zippin' her up when I smelled hot belt. The alternator pulley was SUPER HOT. It still turns but it's just murdered a new belt. So I ask you,..."say whaaaaattttt??!!!??!? I know I have to replace the alt. but why the heat issue and can you direct me as to the best way to remove/replace the unit?
    thnx a mil! notagain2
  • putteringputtering Posts: 17
    I have a 1990 Mazda 626 DX. I HAD belt problems with my alternator belt as well.
    There are several things to consider.
    #1.If the belt is removed, can the alternator pulley spin freely?
    It should keep spinning after you let go of it for at least a second or two.

    #2. The new pulley you installed should ALSO spin freely.
    Sometimes one can over tighten a perfectly good pulley, and it will bind up and not spin well.
    Requiring, a spacer washer to be installed possibly, or simply using a lockwasher
    and or locktight, to prevent vibration from loosening it,backing it off a bit, and then not tightening it quite as much when re-tightening.

    #3. The alternator, pulley and crank pullies all have to be in alignment, meaning that the belt is running in a straight path, not left or right too much, sometimes the alternator,bracket(alternator) or pulley, has to have a different bolt or a washer or two added to bring the belt's path into proper alignment.

    #4. Lastly, proper belt tensioning has to mean that ten to fifteen pounds of pressure
    flexes the belt at least a half inch, up to one inch, ten to fifteen pounds is not a lot of pressure.

    Also: A new belt WILL flex and stretch, mostly after a few minutes of running,
    so, I advise you to RE-Check belt tension after starting and running just a few minutes. And, again, not too tight if you re-tension that belt. It will squeal if it's too loose anyway.
  • have a 97 626 141,000 miles had the wheel bearing replaced he took apart the pasenger side by mistake got it back with a bushing noise I suppose in the upper strut P side haven't looked too far yet anyone got ideas
  • kennekkennek Posts: 1
    i have a 94 mazda 626 dx that has no spark but has power to the coils. I took off the dist. cap and everything looks good. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas if theres a sensor that might be out that i could do myself>
  • travo71861travo71861 Posts: 1
    my 01 626 just started having transmission problem. I changed the fluid. The pump is working, the filter is not stopped up. When you put it in drive from a dead stop, it does not want to go. You have to rev the rpms up to like 2000 and it will slowly start moving until it gets up to like 20 mph then will shift good and no problem after that. When you rev it up it will eventually catch and shift and run great. Its just everytime you start from a dead stop it doesnt want to go. seems like it has to build up pressure or something. Is there an electrical problem? Would it be the soilinoid? Is the valve body stopped up? Can someone help me figure this out please. Its my only way to go.
  • malice2malice2 Posts: 1
    About 2 weeks ago both my engine temperature gauge and my fuel gauge gauge both way beyond the red line on the temperature gauge and fuel gauge. I have a 93 mazda 626. After a few times of turn the key into the on position they will return to normal levels.

    I decided to take a look today and noticed the my engine coolant temperature sensor was melted in half at the base right above the bolt. I know it needs to be replaced but would that cause my gauges to act like that?
  • zoevzoev Posts: 2
    after a serious accident my car was making a noise from the driver side wheel. my mechanic looked for two hours, working on it, test driving. turned out to be a loose sway bar link or whatever. took the second place five minutes to find the problem. they said it wasnt harmful, but loud as hell.
  • Hi, i saw that you had a 95 626 and was curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • Hi, i am curious if you had any idea what the clear plastic overflow tank connects to is called. It's the small black compartment with what looks like a radiator cap that needs to be replaced on my 96 mazda 626 ES V6 2.5L. manual. The hose from the overflow that connects under the imposter radiator cap is busted at the contact point and i am building up pressure and blowing hoses. i had the hose blow that runs from right next to my oil filter and up near the water pump go and everyone has told me they need to remove the a/c compressor and the alternator to get the new hose on. If you can help me at all with anything i would really appreciate it. i just bought this car in may and have put 1000 of work into it between an entire rear brake job and exhaust from the cat back. I love it but the previous owner really neglected the car and now i gotta pay for it.
  • i recently had the timing belt replaced, the mechanic removed the pulleys for the serpentine belt and alternator belt to have access to the timing parts. well he replaced everything ..but now everytime i want to turn on my car it sounds like my alternator belt is spinning round without turning the car on. i have to tighten screw that moves the idler pulley and find a position where it turns on. but then after 20 min the car starts stalling and sometimes turns off and i have to repeat the routine. any ideas on what it could be? the idler pulley (the pulley closest to the hood that moves when you tighten the screw) sounds a little rough when i spin it. any ideas?
  • Thanks! My wifes 1999 626 4 cyl is doing the exact thing.....
  • gyatesgyates Posts: 55
    Just thought I would share this. My daughter's '99 V6 model was experiencing occasional no start issues. Went on for a few days, then would not start at all. Engine cranked, all electricals were working, but no start. I noticed that I was not hearing the fuel pump. Had car towed to the shop. Of course it started for them initially, but then went back to the no start issue. Turned out all it needed was a fuel pump relay. And a new fuel filter. Hope this helps someone.
  • You need to check and see if the intake is tight and if so, you need to replace the intake gasket and that should solve the problem because I had the same issue. Make sure you seal on the top and the bottom.
  • The intake needs to be tighten and if that does work replace the gasket.
  • It is call the overflow tank.
  • I have a 91 Mazda 626 and it seems to not want to work properlly. Everytime it goes below 1000 rpms it kills, i have to throw it into nuetral n keep my foot on the gas to keep it started i think its the throttle sensor but not sure. ive taken it to a few garages but no one has the machine to look at it because it is older than a 96. any ideas?????????????????????????????? :mad:
  • Hi,
    I have a 2000 4cyl auto with 125,000 miles on the clock. Has run faultless up to now. Auto trans is jerking when put into drive or reverse, harsh change from 1st to 2nd gear but fine into m3rd or 4th. Sometimes will not go into 4th at all. The rest of the time it goes into 4th but the "lock" light is on all the time. Checked out by one trans specialist who said the gearbox needed a rebuild - $2,500. Any one out there have any experience of this problem and is it terminal for the gearbox?

    cheers Rory
  • My son is having the same problem - how did you solve it?
    let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
  • My son is having the same problem - how did you solve it?
    let me know ASAP - he is away at college and kind of scared.
  • I have a 99 626 4cyl auto with 103 K on it ...I bought it used and it appears to be in great shape..But I'm a little worried about the Timing belt. I haven't been able to find out if it has ever been changed...The manual says at 60K....Does anyone have any idea just how long it can last..? The local Mazda dealer wants about 800 bucks to change it..cheaper than a new engine,but I don't want to put that kind of money in this car.....Thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,769
    $800 seems high for that service. Have you checked non-dealer mechanics? Also, did you ask your Mazda dealer to check the computer service records? If any Mazda dealer changed that belt, it should be in the computer (I think...). Also you could ask your dealer to pull a Carfax report on the car for you as a courtesy; it MIGHT say whether the belt has been replaced.

    I would be worried too if the timing belt had over 100k on it. When I bought my 2000 626 in January 2006 with 84k on it and no record of the 60k service being done, I made the dealer toss that into the deal, including the timing belt replacement.
  • Thanks backy,
    Yes I did pull a carfax report on the car but could find no service records..It had 92K on it when I bought it and it did appear to be very well cared for..new belts ,hoses ect.It uses no oil..
    I'm getting a lot of conflicting information on that 2 liter motor..Some say it is an interference engine and some say it isn't..One guy replaced his belt at 175K and said the old belt looked new..So I'm going to take my chances and run it..I'm planning to get rid of it next spring anyway.Although it's been a pretty good car it's underpowered and noisy...Incidentally I solved the problem of the check engine light coming on and then going back off again after a few days by changing the trans. fld. and putting in Mobil 1 synthetic..Apparently the tranny was overheating causing the check engine light to come on..That's what the code said ...Any way , thanks for your help.. :lemon:
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