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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • hercyniumhercynium Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice, both of you. Of course, I'm not taking the advice of the jiffy-lube guy as a certain diagnosis, but I'm glad he pointed out the problem. I just might try looking for holes in the exhaust manifold pipe. Also... can you describe where the filter housing is, and how I would check?

    I'm just trying to get an idea of what the problem is so I don't get fleeced. I'm just nervous since I moved too far away to take my car to my old mechanic... he's slow, but he's honest, frugal, and always does the job right. :-)
  • mazda_manmazda_man Posts: 3
    thanks for the advice but i already changed the plugs and the wires and the fuel filter and the cadalac convertor,and the air intake hose bc it was crack and it is still doing it just as bad,sometimes it acts like it doesn't even want to goi went to get it put on a test but my uncles was haveing some problem so i should get it done by tomorrow,i just hope it is nothing to serious
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I hope someone can help me here, you all seem to really know a lot about Mazda's.
    The problem is the A/C, it worked ok last year, but this summer it's blowing hot air. I put some more r-134 in it and it worked somewhat for a day, then back to hot air the next. The mechanic who checked it said he was 85% sure it was the Expansion valve on the Evaporator core. The entire core with new valve is only $250, but labor is $800! I want to replace the valve or core myself, but I'm not sure how to do it. I got the Hayne's manual and it doesn't look too difficult. Any suggestions?
    Also, could it be a problem other than the expansion valve or evap. core?
    Please help.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,643
    Why do you have to replace the entire evaporator? Putting in a new expansion valve isn't usually too hard (just a couple of wrenches, really) but you don't have the equipment to evacuate and clean the system. You'll probably want to put a new drier in there too since you're opening everything up.
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    The mechanic was just recommending replacing the evaporator since I was already paying him to get at the expansion valve. But, since the valve is only $30 or so, and the dryer is about $60, I think I'll try those first instead.
    Do you have any idea how much it would cost to have a mechanic evacuate and clean the system before I do the work?

    btw...thanks for the input...I really appreciate it.
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I just looked at the high-pressure a/c side valve and it looks like I can use the same hose that I use to add R-134a but with an adapter fitting that I have. Will this work?
    Also, is it sufficient just to empty the high-pressure side until there appears to be nothing more coming out? Seems to me that this would indicate that it's empty.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,643
    Ah, without seeing stuff first hand I don't want to advise you; besides, venting refrigerant to the outside air isn't cool, so that's why I was advocating that you have it evacuated and captured professionally. Also you have to protect yourself when you work on this stuff.

    I'd guess a shop might charge you an hour's time to do that.
  • nannettenannette Posts: 6
    I just recently started having that same problem of being at a Red light and the AC causing the engine to almost stall. During Acceleration, the car would kinda hesitate (Almost like it was misfiring) and pressing the pedal to the floor would cause it to stutter. Thing just wouldn't pick up and go like it always has.

    Don't know if you have had yours fixed or not, but here is what I had replaced on mine that completely fixed the problems:

    Spark Plugs - They had fallen apart inside the engine
    Spark Plug Wires - Whatever brand was on there. NGK or Denzo or something
    Rotor Button
    Distributor cap
    PCV valve
    Fuel Filter - Took an hour to take the engine apart to get to the stupid thing
    Air Filter
    Adjusted response time and Idle screw

    Runs great now with all power restored. I also had my fuel injection system flushed which really made a big difference in performance. Hope this helps
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    And, one hopes, a rebuild recent enough to have incorporated the handful of design changes that have been made to this box.

    I flush out my CD4E every 15k-20k miles.
  • seyitsseyits Posts: 1
    i have a 1991 lx 626 stick has 117000 miles on it.i recently replaced accelerates fine,but on fifth gear it hits 3000 rpm and it is only going at 70 mhp.
    any ideas
  • mike74mike74 Posts: 1

    A local mechanic recently put brakes on my 2001 626, v6 2.5, 35,000 miles. After a while they started to squeak a lot, so I took them apart to put some anti-squeal on the backs of the pads. When I removed the pads, I found that the dust seals on the calipers were torn. It looks like the shim on the back of the pad sliced through the piston dust cover. Rather than take it back (wasn't crazy about the mechanic to begin with), I picked up a caliper rebuild kit from Mazda.

    The calipers work fine, but I wanted to replace the dust boots on them. Can I do this without having to remove the piston? I was hoping to just pull the old one off and put the new one in place.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • mx6alexmx6alex Posts: 1
    Hi there

    I seem to have a problem with my 2.0 standard tans. 94 MX6. The idle speed is pretty low around 600 or 500 rpm sometimes. if it happens to be at 700 rpm (usually after driving for a bit) it would drop down to about 550 when i apply the brakes or the clutch, with a double effect if i press both at the same time.

    thanks for your input!
  • Any idea what would casue a sudden increase in noise during higher speeds? I've got 106000 miles on my 2001 626 and the increased noise just recently started. It is not noticeable when idling or even at low speeds (below 30 or so), and gets louder as the car goes faster. It basically sounds the same as it did before, just a lot louder.
  • jaybird3jaybird3 Posts: 1
    I have an 88' 626 non-turbo with manual tranny. The car runs great except for the idle speed which when stopped will hover around 1000 to 1200 rpm. If I load the engine by partially releasing the clutch while keeping the brake on, the idle speed will drop to 700 rpm and stay there until the next stop. spark plugs, ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor are all new. It's curious that a temporary engine load will allow the idle to drop and then stay there. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I recently noticed that when I press the gas on my 2000 626 it stalls for a few seconds. It has 86,000 miles on it. Other than that I have had no problems. The small town mechanic (that I know personally) told me that I would have to have a new transmission. As I am typing this it is getting a second opinion. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this????
  • samjrsamjr Posts: 1
    we have a 1992 626 that has a new engine in it but it seems to have deveoloped a nasty litle problem. Runs great until it get good and hot then it stumbles badly and stalls. It will not re-start but will after it has cooled for a 30 mins. or great agian till it gets hot. The water temp is not going out of normal range. any ideas of what it could be. Sounds like some sensor is holding us out. TIA :P
  • jaimjaim Posts: 4
    My 2000 626LX V-6 5M has grown exceedingly noisy at only 40,000+ miles. The noise sounds like excessive valve clearance, but I have been told that the lifters are hydraulic and the valve clearance is not adjustable. In message #1603 p100 mentions that 98 and later V-6's use mechanical lifters which require periodoc adjustment.Can anyone confirm whether the 2000 V-6 uses adjustable mechanical lifters?
  • Friend's 2000 626 w/ 80K.
    He had a condenser from a junk yard put in and now the compressor has smoke coming out so the mechanic told him to bring to dealer. He can't afford that.
    Anybody have technical info to link to regarding the AC for this car? Any help will be appreciated. I think it's a 4 cylinder engine.
    Gary :D
  • bwade1bwade1 Posts: 8
    I have a 1996 626lx V-6, 5 speed and I really like it. Got a bad expansion valve on the a/c evaporator core and I have to take apart the passenger's side dash and glove-box to get to it. I would love to know if there are any tricks or tips on getting the dash out easier. The mechanic was gonna charge $700-$800 in labor basically for the dash removal/installation so it sounds like it might take a while...any good suggestions would be appreciated.
  • Hey Thanks I appreciate that alot! Ill get started this morning, i'll let you know when I finish up. Sounds like that about covers everything, stay tuned!!!
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