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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • Hi Alcan, your fix worked a treat. I am now unstuck in the morning. Cheers.
    However, my Mazda has suddenly developed another illness which is a pain in the rear. It's now 'coughing and spluttering' when I drive. I thought it may have been related to the sticky pedal, so i gave the throttle body bore and plate a good clean. Well, it fixed the pedal issue but the coughing wasn't resolved. I've narrowed it down to when i press the gas pedal quickly it struggles, there is no power and the whole car shakes. If I accelerate slowly and gently, its better. Its also terrible up a hill. I'm now desperate, huge lorries are overtaking me on the motorway! Please help!!!!! Thanks. :sick:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If this condition developed right after cleaning the throttle body, take a good look at the air intake ducting and make sure there are no cracks or splits between the airflow sensor and the throttle body which could allow unmetered air to enter the engine. Mazda's can be bad for that and it would cause the engine to run lean, giving the symptoms you describe.
  • Hi. Its strange actually, the problem happened before cleaning the throttle body, which is what prompted me to clean it. Looking through previous postings, I decided to clean the MAF. this had a major difference, but it still has the occasional 'cough' whilst driving. I also noticed that one of the HT leads was wet with water (1st from the right). The air filter is also quite dirty but was only replaced 2 and half months ago. I'll check the air intake ducting to make sure there are no cracks. Many thanks for you help by the way.

    I think my lovely mazda has become a pensioner!......
  • svandasvanda Posts: 1
    The transmission Shift of my 1991 Mazda 626 is stuck on parking. It wont budge. I thought that maybe the lock [hold] was on but it is not. Can't find my car manual to see how I can fix it. Any help?
  • I just purchased a 1995 Mazda 626 (ES). The brake indicator light on the dash stays on at all times. There does not appear to be any problems with the brake system and the car dealer claims that the car sat around on the lot for a long time and that is the reason (???). Any ideas? Thanks. I really appreciate any help.
  • slickdogslickdog Posts: 225
    Maybe if some of the brake fluid leaked out! The fact that the car sat on the lot for a long time is a really poor reason for not looking into the problem if that's what they're trying to do.

    Low pressure in the brake lines can cause the warning light to come on, which could be a result of fluid leakage.

    A problem with the warning light switch for the parking brake handle/pedal could also be the cause.

    If you just purchased the car then I think it would be reasonable to expect the dealer to look into this. You can't be too careful with brakes.
  • Thanks for your reply. I did ask the dealer (a used car dealer, you know how they can be) about this problem, but he said this was an "as is" deal and said that I would have to pay extra for an inspection and any subsequent repair. He basically just danced around the problem by saying that the car had sat on the lot for a long period of time. But, thank you so much for giving me something to go on here because I am clueless when it comes to cars.
  • boltsbolts Posts: 3
    I actually have fixed the problem. So, first new distributor not from mazda, and second a new crank sensor. Car runs beautifully. A little sluggish pick up, but I'm guessing that's due to the age of the car.
  • brodbrod Posts: 1
    I've been looking/researching ALL day to attempt to make a wise decision. We are looking at a neighbors 1994 626 V6 at with 150,000 on it. I don't know if the trans has ever been replaced but I would like to know of individual owners experience overall, and seek input in order to make up my mind. She is only charging $800. Someone did hit the rear driver door but other that that the car is in good shape. Thanks for the help.
  • I love my Mazda but its been giving me trouble for the past year. When i bought it it only had 16,000 miles, which is great for an 88. It has around 60,000 now. The first thing that had to be fixed was the gas tank, which me and my Dad replaced. Then it did fine for awhile, and then the tires and brakes. Then it just started to lose its power. When i first got it it drove like a dream, and now it will barely make it to town and back without overheating. When i push on the gas it just has no power, and the whole car jerks and shakes bad.I changed the spark plugs and wires and it sounds a little better. About 3 months ago my oil light came on and it was very low, so i took it in and they changed the oil , about 2 weeks later the oil light came on again. It was dry so i put oil in and it would run out in about 2 days. A friend then replaced a part that oil was coming out of and it quit leaking but still runs bad. I think it running low for so long has caused problems, but i don't trust the mechanics around here, so i wanted some advice. please help,Crystal
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Remove the air intake ducting between the airflow meter and the throttle body, and check it for any cracks or other damage that would allow unmetered air to enter the engine. Also, is the check engine light on?
  • I have purchased a used 1997 Mazda 626 DX a couple of weeks ago. It has a four cylinder engine. The car was in bood shape and rides fairly well. I have started to have stalling problems in low idle while sitting at a traffic light or making a slow turn. This weekend I have paid the Mazda dealer $300.00 to clean my fuel injectors, induction system, and increase the idle speed adjustment, but this still has not resolved my problem. Mazda told me this morning that I had a loose number 4 spark plug that was not getting full compression since it was loose. When I received the car this evening it was a lot smoother and not stalling, but a few moments ago, the car stalled again at a traffic light. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? The car is in good shape, but it continues to stall at low idle speed. I know it is something simple to fix, but I am becoming frustated by this situation. Help please!
  • Thanks, that hasn't been checked yet. No the engine light hasn't came on. I've been driving it cause i have no choice right now, but it sounds terrible and when i get to about 40 it just rattles and shakes. When im sitting at a stoplight its bad and i have to slam it to get it to go. Im broke right now so if theres anything i can figure out myself it would help. :sick: .
  • Hi,

    There is a resistor located under the passenger side dash. You'll have to unscrew two screws to get to it after you drop the kick panel. It's rectangle in shape and once you pull it out of the vent you'll see coils on the top of it.

    It's about a $60 part that comes from Mazda service.
  • Hi, many thanks for your reply.
    i did as you suggested and pulled out the resistor. On my model it is a black plastic housing with what looks like a silver credit card attached to it. There are no coils on it?
    I live in the UK. Could this be why it is different from your suggestion?
  • rg500rg500 Posts: 2
    I wish everyone to stand up against Mazda, get all your reciepts for your gearboxes you payed for - including mine, and post them to Mazda Corp. for complete refund. Fancy stuffing up so bad on a gearbox thats so electronically reliant that they can get away with sumthing like this without even recalling all the cars to be fixed or replaced with new 1s,Mazda ? , you have totally destroyed any confidence in your cars that i have - had. Zooom Zooom, cough cough, splatter platter. Peice of junk, parts are expensive, unreliable etc.

    I read in a website once when i was looking for a problem with , "Harsh Gearchanging" for my Mazda 626 93'. It said, "If your walking up the street and a mazda automatic is on your side of the road, then cross to the other side. Do not buy an automatic mazda between the years of 92' - 96'. do not except a ride in one." One month later, i pulld outfrom the curb and was cruising up the hill (slight hill) and all of a sudden, i noticed the "HOLD: light on the dash came on, the revs started to increase and the car started slowing. All my worries happened at that second. Cut a long story short, a second hand gearbox for $750 AUD. Its not exactly good either, it slides into gears with cosiderable delay, like slipping. This apparently is normal, it makes a sort of grinding noise every now and then when shifting in2 fourth. I've had enuf, its gooooooone. Rough idling ? yeah doing that too. TRied the electronic tune up, no good. tried cleaning the throttle body sensor, no good. Next step is, cut my losses , get rid of it and - Not buy a Mazda. Sorry guys ( & girls), dont mean to sound negative but i tell ya for me, Mazdas and Mitsubishi's can please them selves. Ive been building hot cars sinse i learnt to drive a manual at the tender age of 12. I've turbo'd them , nitrous oxided them, changed engines rebuilt them and made cars and bikes a small part of my learning life. I know when theres a problem, when sumthings just not rite, and Mazda have just given themselves such a bad name for these cars. Problem is, Mazda are being arrogant and ignorant to all the consumers that have payed a lot of money for one of their products that are guerenteed to fail prematurily - or how ever you spell it, lol. Happy days people. This Aussie is going to settle for the good o'l local market. A Holden car (Aussie made), North South engine with a tail shaft and diff, 5 speed "manual" trannie, minimal electronics, and just as comfy if not more so than that bloody mazda im about to say good by too, all the best folks.
  • cathygcathyg Posts: 1
    I purchased a used 1997 626 on Friday. While driving it home the O/D off started to flash and it was shifting hard, I thought I had done something, not to sure about O/D switches. After letting the car sit for a few mins turned off, the flashing light went off. The next morning while on the Hwy. the engine light and the O/D off light started flashing, shifting hard and smoke coming out from under the hood. I looked under the hood and something was leaking out of the motor on the side.
    I took the car back to the dealership right away. He will take it to his mechanic on Monday to find out what is going on.
    I am in Ontario, do I have a right to ask for a refund? I did get a warranty for engine/tranny unlimited kms. but it won't cover anything that happens 500 kms or 15 days within purchasing the car, states it is a pre-existing condition.
    What legal rights do I have? I am not sure I want the car even if its fixed now, I don't know that I will trust it in the future.
  • xerosxeros Posts: 2
    my automatic '90 DX has a similar problem. I just have to let it roll for a second before I try to accelerate. As for slow turns, I have done what I mentioned or floor the pedal. Flooring it won't seem to respond imediately, but if you don't let up, it should respond after 5-7 seconds. Both have worked for me a few times. If this helps at all, it is proof that there has been little improvement in seven years of producing these vehicles. :P
  • Hi Guys I just got back to USA from Greece and it was too hot to even think of working on my wifes car while I was there. Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF .I looked at the air filter box for cracks briefly and saw that the passenger side towards the front of car filter box is not completely closed. I can see the orange filter housing. Does anyone have the same year 1994 4 cylinder car w/atx and is that normal? I know Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it shoud. Could this be the reason. Also I have a dramatic loss of power in the mountainous ranges in Greece where the air is thinner to begin with> Also yesterday on the way to airport car was shuddering a little ataround 65 MPOH and higher . I will be going back to Greec in 6 weeks and would like to know what parts to take with me
    Tia Peter
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