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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • I have a 94 626, 4 cyl manual. Car just quit starting. One night it worked fine, the next morning wouldn't start. It does everything it is supposed to except fire.
    Took it into CrappyTire (ie Canadian Tire), they have spent 3 hrs and don't know what the problem is!!! Go figure.
    The "mechanic" says it turns over but doesn't fire. I thought it didn't turn over. As I crank the key it sounds as though it will start but doesn't "catch". A friend checked out the starter and it seemed fine.
  • The exact thing happened to mine a couple of months ago, drove home in pm, no start in am... car sounded like it wanted to start, just never made it all the way there. It wasn't the no start sound you get from battery, and would make all the usual sounds of starting right up to the point of where the engine kicks in (hard to describe, but sounds familiar to wwhat you said) It turned out to be a faulty spark plug wire. We replaced the wire set and is fine...well except for the leaky transmission I wrote about a week ago!!! In replacing the wires, we first checked the plugs ("we" as in the mechanic did and told me they were ok...he thought it could be either plug or wire)
    Too bad it is at Crappy, they are trouble. If you have any way of taking it somewhere else, I would recommend it (I have a friend who used to work there, the stories he tells.....)
  • Anything new with your tranny? Just curious
  • Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems?
    Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner?
    Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL.
    I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ).
    Thx a lot
  • Anything new with your tranny? Just curious

    Well, still leaks, but when it is a short drive barely at all, sometimes nothing...longer hauls it leaves its mark. I have been checking fluid levels regularily, and so far hasn't lost enough to make much of a dent. I have a few bottles of fluid in trunk, just in case. Haven't had a chance for a second opinion yet, and am keeping my eyes open for a used car, which will not be another mazda! Figured I will try something else for a while...need to spend some time looking at reviews. I am not sinking more money into this one, from everyone I have talked to, the repair is not a cheepie, have to life transmission out, so no way

    Hopefully you are having better luck with yours.
  • You cabn probably baby it like that for quite a while. When I had to make long trips (3hours 80 MPH) I would stop for coffee 35 for minutes midway and check the fluid till I had the seals replaced.
    Baby it and good luck. I will know more about mine when I get to Greece
    PGP :)
  • 17181718 Posts: 3
    Can someone help me locate the thermostat on the 2000 Mazda 626? It's a 2 5 liter engine. Having trouble with it "sticking" closed, not allowing the air blowing from the heater and defroster to warm up.....Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,402
    This is a duplicate post....try to stay in one forum with one question if you can.



  • 17181718 Posts: 3
    It is hard to tell what the exact temp is, as there are no numbers....however, it was running in the "normal" range (to the left of the center of the gauge). When I drove it today, first thing in the morning, I choose not to use the heater/defroster. The temp gauge went up past the center and into the right side of the gauge at a pretty rapid rate. I quickly turned on the heater/defroster at full bore and instantly the temp came back down to the normal fluxuated slightly from normal to the middle of the gauge then settled into the normal range. The heater/defroster started blowing "heated" air just like it's suppose to. Could it be that the thermostat was "stuck" and it may have opened back up? Any other suggestions?
    Thanks for you help. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,402
    Well okay if your temp gauge is jumping around, that is more likely a thermostat issue. I thought it was blowing cool air with a steady reading in the "normal" zone, which would be more indicative of a bad heater valve or air deflector servo or cable.


  • Today, I happened to look under my 1994 Mazda 626 and saw a wire hanging down in front of the rear wheel on the passenger side. Upon inspection, I found it to be small ground strap that was broken, with one end still bolted to the body of the car. I tried to locate where the other end was attached, but could not find it. Does anybody out there know what this ground strap is supposed to be hooked to???

  • I have had two overflow tank replacements on my 2000 LXV6 model. I believe they are just cheaply made. Their was a design modification as the replacement have not worked. The second replacement was immediately following my 60,000 mile service when I had timing belt and water pump replaced. I noticed some of the coolant laying in an area and was told that it was just a burp in the coolant system and some coolant "just escaped from the overflow". It was a slow leak and shortly thereafter my temperature gauge shot up. You would think that they could design a once piece unit.
  • I love this car. Best drive ever, not the most comfy seats though. Anyhoo, after many years of loving this car I got another and made the 626 my gas-friendly car to take out when I don't need to lug crap in my SUV. For the past 6 months, it's been tempermental when starting. Some days it just won't. Others, it will fuss and trying again later it will give in and drive like normal.

    My father says it has something to do with damp weather but heck, I need the car no matter what the weather is like.

    Yesterday it started for a second and shut off. It makes the "starting" noises but just doesn't fire up completely. Does that sound like sparky issues?
  • I have a great looking black 94' 626. Its a wonderful car except a few niggling problems and the check engine light that used to come on and off. Well the last couple of days the thing that I was dreading about happened. My transmission or its electrical circuitry has developed problems. The car reverses fine but in drive, it just revs high and starts with a big jerk. Then soon after the 'HOLD' light starts blinking and the car refuses to move. Does this mean that my transmission is 'kaput' or is it just an uncooperative sensor??
    Could someone please shed some light? I love this car but lately its grown too temperamental for me. :cry:
    Thanking you in advance.
  • This is great ! I could have written this myself. I have a 99 Mazda 626 ES V6 - at about 65,000 miles my water pump went out - a month later all the coolant was on the grount - turns out it was the reservoir tank. I had had a replacement of the reservoir tank at about 20,000 miles also - (same problem ) car got hot and all coolant squirted out of a pin hole in tank.
  • Sounds like a plan, but I have had the A/C off and received the same problems. I will check into your suggestion. I do appreciate it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Same here. First one was leaking at approximately 40K miles and was replaced under warranty. The second one started leaking slowly around 110K miles. Cost me about $ 70 to replace, just the cost of the part.

    They are probably cheaply made. The problem with a leaky coolant overflow bottle in a V6 is that the A/C compressor clutch wiring harness connector is directly under the bottle and leaking coolant can get into the connector and cause all kinds of intermittent A/C problems. I packed the connector with dielecric grease to help prevent this.
  • Can anyone help. I have a Mazda 626 coupe, E reg not quite sure what year, and the indicators and hazards have gone off. I have been told that it needs a new relay. But where is it? Trying to get a manual has proved near impossible for the age. It's not a fuse! Have tried that :cry:
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