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Mazda 626 Troubles

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  • Does anyone know where the Cam sensor is located? My CEL came on and I took it to Autozone for the free diagnostic. The error shows a "Bank 1 cam sensor malfunction". Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
  • I hope someone can help me with this. I am about to sell my 96 Mazda 626, 4 cylinder. Hasn't been a terrible car, but enough small problems starting popping up that I chose to buy a new car instead of fixing the 'ol 626. I bought a new Mazda6 s Wagon with the 6speed ATX. Anwyay....on the old 626, I can no longer get the key into the Drivers side door lock. Is there anyway I could fix this myself?? I am selling the car tomorrow, and would like to fix this for them. Any suggestions??
  • I have a 2000 (4 cyl auto.) It does the same thing. The plugs and wires were changed about six weeks ago. But doesn't seem to help this problem.

    I now have a check engine light that goes on when accelerating at approx. 45-50 mph. It eventually goes away. When this happens, it sounds like it is missing....

    Have any ideas?
  • What did you find was the final solution?
    We are having the same problem with a 2002, 626 with only 13,000 miles on it.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    My 1999 ES V6 5 speed has the cam sensor located inside the rear valve cover, close to a cam sprocket. 1999 626 V6 does not have a distributor though.
  • Hi Guys,
    I just got to Greece and brought the Bosch MAF with me. When mechanic drew codes, no code for MAF showed , just a 181 which is oxygen sensor. Having previously pulled both 159 MAf and 181 Os sensor I had him install the MAF against his judgement. I then cleared the codes and told him I would bring O2 sensor next trip.
    I pulled out of the shop and CEL came on one time ONLY.I REPEAT ONE TIME ONLY! I drove car all around at all speeds up to 85 MPH and it never came back on again.
    My impression is the PCM might have been receiving errors from both, but changing MAF ONLY seems to have rebooted the PCM and for now at least car drives fine. I will be going up to mountainous regions in a few weeks and that will be the final test.
    AT least to me, that shows how one bad sensor can influence another sensor and make it be out of range.
    I will advise after mountain test.
    Thx and I hope this helps someone else
    PGP
    P.S. People can do a search to find the entire saga if interested :)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    EUREKA!!!!!!!! LOL

    Keep up posted.
  • Well its me again.After fixing check engine light (I HOPE) now onto the clunking sound in the front end. I changed the CV joints a while ago and its not them. The mechanic here says its the bearings and strut plate that need to be replaced.I do not have much faith in Greek mechanics and looking through my Haynes manual, I do not really see any reference to this as a possible cause.
    Any advice Alcan or Mr Shiftright or any other knowledgeable person? Does this seem right . Other Mazda place thought it might be stabilizer links, and to wait till it gets worse to know definitely. Who to believe and how to test/find out ? If in fact, it is strut plate and bearings , will waiting cause any more serious damage .
    Just a clunk/clink sound when turning wheel at rest like the CV joints which are now perfect.
    Thanks again
    Peter :)
  • I was also having clunking in the front of my '01 626 ES, but it went away after i had the tires replaced. I have no idea why it happened, but i just thought i'd throw it out there. It doesn't really seem to make sense, but it worked for me.

    Also, i was just wondering if anyone else has had any problems with their Bose CD player. When i bought the car, there was a CD stuck in the player (Black Eye'd Peas, yuck). The CD plays fine, but it won't come out. I was thinking it might be something as simple as a broken lever somewhere, but i've never fiddled with a car stereo before. It hasn't really effected me, as I use an mp3 player with a fm transmitter, but it would be nice to be able to use the CD player without having to take it to a mechanic.
  • I was going to put at least 2 new front tires on car also, maybe 4 all around . I will give that a shot first, before replacing any front end parts, although I do not think it will solve the problem .
    Thx
    Peter
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If it's making the noise turning the wheel with the car stationary, try this. Have someone turn the steering wheel while you reach in past the front wheel and hold your hand against the spring. If it's an upper mount bearing binding then releasing, you'll feel it through the spring when it releases.
  • Thx Alcan,
    I will try that tomorrow and let you know
    Peter :)
  • Alcan you DA MAN:)
    Thats the feeling I get from the spring so I guess it isthe bearing thats bad. Mechanic said bearing and plate . Does that mean "strut mounting kit". I see bearing listed separately, a mount listed, and a mounting kit. I do not see plate and bearing separately and am afraid of ordering wrong parts.
    Also is this a dangerous condition or can it wait for 3 months or 1500 miles max till I get back to USA and back,to get the correct parts?
    Thx Again
    PETER
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hi Peter, t'was just a lucky guess. Without pulling it apart and inspecting the components it's hard to say what condition the upper mounts and spring seats are in. The component causing the clunk is the bearing binding then releasing, but if it's a '94 it's a pretty good bet that the seats and mounts are deteriorated too.

    Another option, order the mount kits and the bearings separately, then return the kits if only the bearings are needed. That way, you'll have all the parts necessary. Nothing more frustrating that removing the struts and disassembling them only to find that there are additional worn parts which you don't have on hand and which will require duplicating all the labour.If it was me doing this repair, I'd just go ahead and order the mount kits. Should include items 3, 4 and 5 as shown here:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801451d7.gif

    A note of caution, a spring compressor MUST be used to disassemble the struts for mount replacement or that mount coming at you at about Mach 3 when the piston rod nut is removed could be the last thing you see.

    Will also need an alignment afterwards.
  • Hi Alcan,
    My confusion lies in these 2 types of different sets sold.
    This is the strut mounting kit #L3033-151212


    http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Mounting%20Kit&dp=false

    and this is simply the strut bearing #L3035-103835 at the top of page and "Front Strut-Mate bearing plate" by Monroe not KYB at the same parts house (bottom of page )# TS902922.

    http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1994&make=MA&model=- 626--004&category=All&part=Strut%20Bearing&dp=true

    The Monroe set has some more parts but does not look like the identical parts as the "strut mounting kit". The mechanic said bearing and plate but was a little vague and had no printer, he just showed me the parts on a computer.
    Does the Monroe set look like the right one to you? My guess is,that it is the right one and what is your opinion please?
    He said it was 2 1/2 hours labor and I believe they have the correct equipment to do it. I am not going to attempt it myself.
    Thx again
    PGP
  • My Mazda 626 2002 V6 does the same. It always seem to hesitate when accelerating, and then all of a sudden take off as I let off the gas (should work the other way around). Lately it rattles as it accelerates, as if it is out of breath. I had chnaged the plugs only 5000 miles ago.
    I have seen others have had this problem. Any solution?
  • I have the same problem. Any thoughts?
  • First, the car (a 97 with a 5-speed, 4-cyl, 200,000 miles) jerks a bit on acceleration. The shop adjusted the clutch but didn't replace it, though they thought it might need it. Input, please?

    Also, my driver's side seat belt won't retract properly and, as it's the one in use 100% of the time when the car's being driven, probably needs to be replaced. However, I can't see a way to remove the trim panels without brute force and don't want to risk breaking anything. Suggestions, please?

    Carl Dombek
  • kk2482kk2482 Posts: 33
    If you are referring to the keyhole - all you need is a little lead to loosen up the latches in the keyhole. *This can be done with any malfunctioning keyhole* Contact your local autoparts store - they'll know what you need ;)
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