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Mazda 626 Troubles



  • Thank you. I did change the plugs and wires. I had taken my car to the dealer and after charging 90$ they told me that I had put in wrong plugs that I about from the local store. Any ways I did put NGK plugs and wires [local shop]. Also had the fuel filter and air filter replaced [another local shop].
    The guy who worked on plugs told me to use premium gas. So I did that. Went to a couple of gas tanks. I am not sure if I noticed any improvments.

    Anyways this weekend it felt like that the problem is back my hesitated for like 5 second and I think gave the same shock/jerk only once.
    So I took it it the local shop who did check asked me to put another fuel injector and replaced the PVC valve.

    Where do you usually get the Fuel injection service. My dealer told me that they would charge 150$. I read that there are professional home cleaning system…do they work?
  • I was driving during rush hour today on a major interstate trying to merge and my 1999, Mazda 626 shook, and then cut off! I'm thinking it may be either the fuel pump or fuel filter. Any ideas??!!??? Thanks so much!!
  • Help! I'm suspecting the problem with a friend's car trouble is the fuel pump relay but I can't determine which of the many relays under the hood is the right relay. A Haynes repair manual is NO help! She drives a 1999 Mazda 626. Can anyone help???
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    According to the illustration on page 01-14-7 of my 1999 Mazda 626 shop manual, the fuel relay is the second relay from the right in the third (closest to the battery) row inside the black fuse/relay box. On the inside of the relay box cover this relay is marked as "circuit relay". There is row of three identical relays right next to the battery (not inside the cover box), but two of these are cooling fan relays.
  • My mazda currently has about 130,000 miles on it. We had the transmission overhauled about a year and a half ago and have been pretty good about regular maintenance. How many miles do you think I can expect out of this car before it dies?? Thanks in advance!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,418
    Life expectancy of a modern car should be about 175K-225K if it is well cared for...of course, this doesn't include accident damage ending the car's life. Anything over that is really just borrowed time and you probably don't want to push a car that far. So if you are driving 12K a year, figure 4 years before you get really serious about changing.


  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    To use a professional injector cleaning method, you must tap into the fuel injection rail and bypass the fuel pump. You need to also pull the fuel pump relay for the duration of cleaning. Yes, some auto parts stores sell pressurized canisters with injector cleaning solution. Unless you have adequate knowledge how to do this, I recommend having a professional do this service. Suggest you try Chevron Techron first. You can buy it for $ 6 a bottle at WalMart. Pour a bottle into about 7 gallons of gas in you gas tank (when you gas gauge shows about half full) then run the tank almost empty. Then, fill the tank with about 7 gallons of gas and add another bottle and run the tank almost empty. Stick with premium fuel - I found that my Mazda likes Mobil or BP best. You may not see the results right away, but over a period of a few months you should. My car was the same way. It took a while to see actual improvement. After two or three consecutive cleanings with Chevron Techron, you should see some better performance. If not, you need professional fuel injector service.

    Also, it is necessary to periodically clean the EGR valve outlet passages in the intake manifold (just behind the throttle body). They clog with carbon with time.
  • Hi Guys,
    Does anyone think that using this injector cleaner is adviseable in a car that is running well.

    Alcan, Mr Shifright jump right in. I asked my Mazda mechanic in Greece and he thought that you could dislodge or cause a problem in a car thats running fine for 55K miles. If its not broke dont fix it, or can performance be restored in your opinions?
    Thx Guys
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Hi Mohammed LOL

    Pete's advice above is pretty solid. I've never had any problems using injector cleaner on higher mileage cars other than a slightly more noticeable clicking from the injectors as the buildup dissolves fron the pintles.

    The mountain LOL
  • Me and my wife fought with this one for about 30,000 miles. The problem turned out to be the spark plugs we swapped in at that mileage. We used Autolites, an American brand. After we put these plugs in, we were changing plug wires every 3,000 miles or so, because of symptoms similar to yours. We found a mechanic that told us that American plug brands like Autolite do not last long in the higher rpm 4-cylinder engines, especially if the engine is a foreign makes such as Mazda. He recommended putting in some NGK, Nippendenzo or Bosch plugs along with a new set of plug wires. We bought some Bosch Plus 2s and also exchanged the lifetime plug wires that we had been using from Autozone for some new ones. The new plugs have made all the difference in the world. I keep expecting them to fail, but they appear to have completely solved our problem - no more hesitation whatsoever!
  • ebrinebrin Posts: 1
    I have read many posts, and its very interesting the amount of common problems that the 626 has. I have on that is not mentioned here, hopefully someone can help me out. I have a 99 mazda 626 4cyl. I have replaced the transmission about a year after purchasing it pre-owned from a dealership. I have been going through alternator belts like crazy here lately. I've tried replacing the alternator twice. I have them checked at Autozone prior to installation and they check out good. The belts get extremely hot and then snap. Ive tried adjusting the tensioner and ensuring alternator is mounted correctly. Ive replace the battery terminals. Also most recently the battery charges while idling and once you press the accelorator or manually accelorate from under the hood it drains the battery. The volt meter shows a very slow charge while idling and as soon as you give it gas it drains it very rapidly. Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated as We are down to one vehicle (FORD) American made. The wife wants to trade it in however the thought of PAYMENTS for the next 5 - 7 yrs is terrifying. Thank you in advance for your help.
  • aburl81aburl81 Posts: 1
    Hi, I know a little about cars and am having a hard time with this one. I have a 89 Mazda 626 non-turbo. It started dieing on me at idle a few weeks ago. This happened at night around 2-3 AM when I get off work. It has been really wet out around that time and is not sure if that could be the problem. I started to notice that when I shift to neutral and apply the brakes I would get a faint light on the dash in the charge and tail light sections. Then when I get up to freeway speed and do the same thing it dies on me at idle. It will restart fine but die at idle. Since then I have changed the fuel filter, plugs, rotor and distb cap. I also adjusted the idle so it was higher and wouldn’t cut out on me. It hasn’t cut out on me since the maintenance I performed but I still get the lights on the dash and it acts like it wants to stall. Any Ideas????? Also I think I may have a short somewhere too because my wipers won't work sometimes and other times they do.

  • mazda626atxmazda626atx Posts: 227
    Is it a 4 cylinder? Can you pull any codes? I know is a OBD1 but maybe you can pull codes from the DLC box in the hood. That would be a good place to start.
    Let us know
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    A common Mazda problem is a cracked air intake duct between the airflow sensor and the throttle body, allowing unmetered air to enter the engine. Remove the duct and check it for any cracks or other damage.
  • fstevebfsteveb Posts: 1
    I had a problem with overheating and wondered if this sounds reasonable. They say the water pump is leaking. They say you have to remove the timing belt and a lot of other stuff, so it's 5 hr job. It's $1000 to fix. The car has 140k miles and had the belt replaced at 80k. They said the belts are worn and should have been replaced before. I'm not too happy with the people that replaced the chain without replacing the belts. I also had it in there last month because they said the main seal was leaking to the tune of $900. Is replacing the water pump really that much?
  • twitmetwitme Posts: 7
    Hello. I found this forum searching for answers to my mazda problems, and found similar issues but possibly not the exact problem I'm having. here is a description:

    My 2001 4cyl mazda 626 intermittently fails to start. The problem is far more prevalent when the temperature outside is high, and when the car has been run recently [less than 30minutes]. However the problem does seem to occur on fewer occassions when the vehicle is cool [2+hours turned off]. When the vehicle fails to start it usually seems like on my first try I get a couple of firings from the spark plugs, and that's it [doesn't seem like enough to be flooding the engine]. Then repeated attempts lead to nothing more than the starter turning the engine with no ignition whatsoever. In most situations if I let the car cool for an hour or two after having problems starting it, it starts. Once the car is running, it runs fine almost always, except once when I had the A/C running with the car going for an hour straight, it almost died while idling.

    The starter turns fine in all situations, so I've ruled out battery or starter. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter but to no avail; the problem is exactly the same after doing so.

    I have also brought the car to a couple of shops, including a mazda dealership. None found any issue while the vehicle was at their shop (no bad test codes, unable to reproduce the problem etc.) During this winter the car seemed to perform almost flawlessly [ambient temps ranging from -10 to 30 degrees fahrenheit], but now that it is 50 degrees fahrenheit out again, the problem has returned.

    thank you!
  • Of all the problems I have encountered this is the first time I have heard of that issue. It sounds like vapor lock with the fuel system. You might try replacing the fuel pressure regulator that is located at the right side of the fuel rail (looking at the engine from front of car). It's the little metal canister that is screwed to the end of the fuel rail and has a fuel line connected to it. I don't know if that will help but it's worth a shot.

    '96 626 4-cylinder Auto 101K miles
  • This also can be a problem with mounting piece that is on the top of struts. It does not take long for certain suspension parts to wear out on this car. Check CV boots (drive shaft rubber boots) first since they seem to wear out faster then the automatic transmissions on these cars. You can change the entire axle if you have more then 100K on the car it's more practical.
  • twitmetwitme Posts: 7
    Just last night I had a friend who's a mechanic look at my car. he said the fuel pressure regulator was bad. I actually just replaced that about 2 years ago. So something else in the vehicle is damaging the regulator it looks like. Any idea what could be causing this problem? faulty fuel pump? something else in the fuel supply system?

    thanks again!
  • I have already replace over $1,700 worth of stuff in my car and the last thing that is left is the transmission. IF anyone knows of a cheap transmission or a rebuild kit for a 1996 mazda 626 please let me know I would appreciate it
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