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Mitsubishi Outlander Noises and Sounds

cheskychesky Posts: 1
edited July 8 in Mitsubishi
Hi, does anybody has the same issue? a squeaky sound, constant, coming either from the rear glass window or somewhere in the trunk area, it's driving me nuts!
besides this, and the fixed problem from the mirrors posted here, an excellent suv. Please, any help?

Comments

  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    To eliminate the rear window as a source wipe the rubber with some lubricant. If it is not that try folding the seats down and so on - working through the most obvious before going to deep into it. Good hunting. :)
  • hshsuhshsu Posts: 1
    I notice the squeaky noise comes from either my driver's seat (leather rubbing leather, maybe) or the second row seat or the body/fram ( hope not) when I am downhill and turning or when i making a sudden stop.

    Anyone notice that?
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Yeah there was a poster 2 weeks ago that was hunting for a squeek in the rear area - have not seen a reply yet - check other titles maybe..
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I bough an Outlander XLS V6 one month ago and at the moment I have done 5,500 miles with a change of oil at 1,000 miles. From the first time I identified two type of noises. The first noise is that that comes from the normal up and down of the cylinder pistons. The second noise is something as a continuous metalic noise, very similar to the noise given by a big electrical generator. The noise, I think is a scaled down metalic noise that usually I have heard in airports when airplanes are warming their turbines engines. Is this normal for an Outlander XLS V6?

    Furthermore, when the engine is relatively cold there is a light shaking through the steering wheel. This little shaking is gone when the vehicle reaches normal engine operation. So far my Outlander is just smooth and responsive in spite of all that punishment I have given to it. However when it is fully loaded (equivalent to 7-adult passengers the car seems to squeak (I don't know if the squeak comes because the luggage weight (many things) or suspension or chassis of the car.

    The brakes (or the brake system) always produce a noise when you press the break when starting the car and when the brake pedal is released almost sounds as if the brake is still engaged. When the car is on the road for a short time the noise is not heard anymore. The steering wheel also produce a noise at the beginning of a manoueuvre from cold but the noise seem to come from the friction of the tires on the road surface (Tires 225/55R18). This also disappears when the car is in normal operation. My previous Tucson V6 use to have the same phenomena. I remember changing the brake pads of the 4-wheel and greasing the caliper pins and I could not get rid off of this behaviour. My Lexus SC300 (120,000 miles) had something strange with the operation of the brakes and brake pedals. This changed for good when I changed the four brake flexible hoses. The operation is now normal and smooth.
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    The noise or groan you hear when the car is started is the abs "setting up" for lack of better words. The whine I beleive is likely the alternator but then you must have pretty acute hearing to pick that out :) . The squeek in the rear I no longer have as I removed the third row seats and bought the tray and cover for more useful space (for me). So maybe there is a connection to the seat(?). The steering certainly has a scrub sound to it when running in awd mode at the outset but that is nornmal (my Audi does it too). Good car for the bucks though eh?
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    I plan to remove my 3rd row seat as well. Did you get tray from LS through the dealer?
    How much was it?
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    Very easy job - cost around $175 from the dealer
  • I have a 2007 outlander. It makes a whirring noise (pulsating) which feels like its coming from the wheels. I hope it's not wheel bearings. It only has 35,000 miles on it. The dealer said the tires were not wearing evenly. I just had an alignment, tire rotation & balance done. It still makes the noise. It is heard mostly when I'm declining at about 45 - 50 mph. Someone else said something about a metal noise (cylinder pistons) but I don't know if that's my case.
    Also, there is a clicking from the steering wheel when I turn it left & right. It sounds like a loose bolt or something inside. The dealer replaced the clock spring and did something about tightening the air bag in the steering wheel but the clicking is still there.
    Also, when I turn the engine off - sometimes I can't get the key out of the ignition.
    I have to turn it off all at once fast - if not it doesn't come out -then I have to turn it back to ACC then to off & it will release.
    Any suggestions? or the same problems?
  • I have the same problem with the whirring noise on my 2007. It started with the new Yokohama tires I put on last year. If it's wheel bearings, you're covered on the warranty. I may change the wheels temporarily to see if the noise persists. If it does, I'm heading right to the dealer for a diagnosis.... :(
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    The uneven noise and slight vibration I experienced turned out to be the GoodYear crapola tires. They were all replaced under warrenty (two weeks old). The casees were all showing signes of warp which caused low and high speed variable noises. The Tire dealer said they would have worn very unevenly had we not dicovered the warp.
    Clicking from the steering wheel - noticed a little of that but oly in winter.
    Do not have key ignition - can't help there other than to say I would expect it was a tumbler wear problem and covered by warrenty.
    My clicking noisee jsut started in the windshield wipers - sounds like a ticking cock in slow speed -but that is the dealers problem. :) :)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    I think there is some information in this forum about that groaning/ flapping noise.

    The frequency of this noise increases when the vehicle increases speed. Above let’s say 70 miles the noise is mixed with the engine and wind noise. Internal failing of the tire/rubber layers is the main causes of these distressing noises. Originally the dealer and I myself blamed this noise on some mechanical faults, including the transmission or the wheel bearings. The mechanics even changed the bearing of the wheel that in his and my opinion was the cause of the noise (all without any success). After some telephone calls to the technical advisory the mechanics took all the tires (and wheels) from the vehicle and replaced them with the wheels and tires from a similar vehicle in the show room and went for a drive. When I saw the mechanics coming back from the test with a big smile on his face I knew that the tires were the problem. That same day I bought a set of 4 new tires and everything ran OK until I sold my vehicle.
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 390
    I've seen and experienced this over and over again . Usually the OEM tires are crap and you don't really get many miles before the whup-whup sounds start. I recently replaced the rear Firestone OEM tires on my wife's Malibu (fronts were replaced earlier with another brand due to a sidewall accident). I told her I couldn't believe how she was putting up with the noise. All quiet now (all 4 tires are now the same). We earlier had an identical experience when we owned both a Dodge Dakota and Dodge Durango, both equipped with Goodyear Wrangles as OEM tires. When we switched to Michelin LTX tires (and later the same Michelin made for SEARS) the noise immediately went away and we never got those sounds with the Michelins (and their successor Michelins) as both sets were only replaced after a good long life .
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    My parent's Grand Prix GT did the same thing. Whenever I drove it, I would ask them how they could stand the noise. They didn't even notice it. When they finally replaced the OEM tires, they couldn't believe how quiet the car was.
  • rcpaxrcpax Posts: 580
    How did you arrange the warranty? Did they give you discount on the new set? I have confirmed that the flapping noise and steer vibrations was due to tire warping. How does warranty work for tires? Does it need to be replaced by the dealer or is any tire place carrying Goodyears okay?
  • 20vcq20vcq Posts: 82
    I had just driven off the lot - so to speak. The dealer had I noticed it before hand would have replaced the tires. They contacted a local Good year dealer Fountain Tire, and they checked the tires - found them warped and ordered new ones under the tire warrantee.
  • siabhosiabho Posts: 2
    Sorry - in Oz so working in kilometres not miles. It's approx 18 miles per hour.

    Anyway, I have a 2006 Outlander (just the LS I suppose) and I have taken it back three times to Mitsubishi service to fix a howling noise that only occurs on the passenger side (left side for my vehicle) once the car is warm and only at 30km/h. It is not the brakes as it doesn't matter whether you are speeding up or slowing down - it always happens when you hit that speed (and it goes away once you go faster or slower than that speed).

    If I take it out of auto-shift and use the manual gear option the sound is almost gone. So I guess it is something to do with the transmission?

    Does anyone have any ideas on this because Mitsubishi certainly don't.

    Thanks
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 894
    Well some people might give you their best guess but that's a hard one to diagnose without actually driving the car. Maybe try a different dealer?
  • piastpiast Posts: 269
    Could it be wind noise from the mirror ? (Well known problem in 2007 model, easy to fix by stuffing some foam under plastic screw cower)
  • siabhosiabho Posts: 2
    thanks - will try the mirror.

    We already tried two dealers :(
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    It appears that the condition of highway roads is the main culprit for the warp phenomena. I don’t think that tires, disregarding , the make can sustain such a punishment as result of driving at 70 miles per hour on these segmented roads that appear that they were constructed using regular pieces of road (tarmac). The place where these pieces of road join (scar) are uneven and the tires keep hitting them at high speed for miles. The noise of the tires is a continuous drum noise (dump-dump) and eventually the tires finish internally damaged. When the tires are damaged the drum noise will be there even on a very smooth road. It is very probably that if you don’t drive at high speed on a segmented road your tires will last longer. Tires may suffer premature damage when the car is fully loaded and driving at high speed on those highway roads.
  • I get a couple of little squeeks here and there, but the lifter noise from the motor is unusual to me. I don't recall ever having a car with as much motor noise as this one. But my last two vehicles have been luxury rides with a lot more sound proofiing, too. I use synthetic oil, which usually will make an engine run smooth and quiet.
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