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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Ive been reading your timing marks problem.

    I have the manual but I cant get a download on this forum. So here goes the narrative.

    Id ignore the two marks on the back of the cam gears as mention in previous post. That is for cam replacement.

    There's a small hole on the front cam timing belt gear. Line this hole up with a mark visible through the hole That is when the cams are TDC. A hint the mark is at the 12 o'clock position if your looking straight at the timing cam gear.

    Next turn pistons over till the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Your done!

    Its easier to remove all plugs and spin engine over by hand. I also slide the crank pulley on to do this. You have to slid it back off to put the timing belt covers on when finished putting belt on. You could put the cover on to to use the TDC mark that is on this cover and align it to the crank pulley. But I dont, I just put a PLASTIC STRAW in the #1 cylinder and watch it come up as I turn engine over by hand. When it stop going up its at TDC.

    Your working on a 5S-FE? A 2.2 liter?

    Keep all slack out of the right side of belt when installing timing belt on water pump gear and cam gear. Another trick is to purposely set the crank gear off one tooth backwards, this will give you some slack to get the belt on. Then turn crank one tooth forward to TDC it should tighten the belt enough before the cam gear moves off of TDC.
  • Burbing cooling system.

    The best way is to put the coolant in real slow making sure the electric fans come on before you slam the hood shut and test drive. The temp gauge should be normal. Keep adding fluid as it warms up, it usually takes 5-7min to open the thermostat.

    The problem comes from the air trapped in the lower hose of radiator. The thermostat does not open and let the water enter the engine. The hot coolant temps are not hitting the thermostat, only the air is. The coolant wont circulate. It will just boil over and out the fill hole on the top of the engine.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    I got it going runs good
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent.....congrats!
  • jodi4jodi4 Posts: 2
    Sincere thanks to kiawah & rearwheeldrive for the input on my post regarding the Toyota Camry. I halfway understand the repair cost since the engine sits sideways and had to be lifted. It's just sad when you go to buy a car and are told that if you purchase the extended warranty, ($1,800 I might add) you will then have "bumper to bumper" coverage. Naturally the first thing to break is not covered. Kinda makes a person feel "taken" if you know what I mean.
    Anyway, here's the update. I haven't had my car for 9 days now. Apparently, new problems came up. First they found a "leaky water pump" after 5 days, then 2 days later, they added a "bad alternator" to the list. Just can't imagine what the total will be, IF I ever get my car back.
    Still, all I want to know is what would cause the bolts to break? I bought this car used in October 2007. It is driven to & from work 4 days a week and a trip or 2 out for groceries. It is not driver over the speed limit, on bad roads or abused in any manor. Did I get a "lemon"? If I did, it's too late now. Does anyone know if Toyota has a web site for questions? Like I said, I just need to know "Why it broke".
    Again, Thank you for any information anyone can shine on this subject. jodi4
  • It might be extreme but I would find out who has touched the engine for belt repairs or such and go after them .

    Those things like water pump and alternator must be removed anyways to get to the broken bolts. And your battery wasnt dead when you broke down in the middle of the street was it?

    The warranty wont cover negligent repairs, someone probably tightened the steering pump bolts to tight or left them loose..Ask for the broken bolts back.and start from there.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    I have a 01 Toyota Camry w/115000 miles and the A/C and Heater fan switch used for the speed only works on the 2 high speeds[there r 4 speeds] the A/C works fine. When I put on the A/C fan on the 2 lower speeds, the A/C compressor goes on but nothing blows out of the vents. When u put it on the two higher speeds, the A/C blows out of the vents. Any suggestions.....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check the resistor bank in the air plenum.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    Where is it located and is it called the blower motor resistor or is it the same thing u r talking bout[resistor bank]?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Thats it, it's in the air plenum where the blower motor is.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    Thanks again for the info. I replaced the resistor and it works fine!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, congrats......great job!
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    ended up doing some other work on the camry while i pondered the start problem.changed tappet cover gasket,fitted timing belt kit,and fitted new alt,p,steer belts so sorry for the delay for anyone that was waiting for an outcome to my problem.probably spent 7-8 days on testing relays and sensors via a manual that i also purchased,at the end of the day i think the ecm or an open circuit wire was the problem, the latter being my pick.i ended up fitting a relay to power up the fuel pump which i could not get to run,power the pump and the car would run perfectly.so i just powered a relay via the ignition fuse and run another wire to the pump.the car runs fine. at the end of the day i just didnt want spend any more time or money, plus i wanted to get it out of my shed .no doubt about it they are definitely a great little car but i suppose all things play up now and then and i cant say i didnt learn anything,, patience being one thing , chow regards rod
  • I have a 1996 Toyota Camry. When I have my car in park it idols too high. When it is in gear it idols too low. What could the problem be?? The needle that points to the rpm's fluctuates up and down. I have tried to fix the idoling, but it doesn't work. I have replaced the throttle posistion sensor but it still hasn't fixed the problem.Do you know what the problem could be?? Please help..
  • It seems like a air induction problem .

    I would check the duct going into the engine from air filter. Small leaks can throw off mixture settings. They crack and can be found by squeezing the duct while its running.

    Dropping down to low is an indication of a vacumm leak too. The size of the leak would be large though, like the hose that goes to the PCV system. The air leaking into this line will cause it to run fast in park. Then when its in gear the added load of the gears and the too lean mixture will cause it to run at a low idle.

    I think the 1996 has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) at the end of the valve cover on the back of the engine on a V6. On the 4 cylinder it is somewhere on the valve cover too.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    are your filters ok ,,is your air filter clean,has your fuel filter been replaced lately,and your spark plugs ,what condition are they in,start there and see how you go ?
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    just wondering if you saw my update on my camry 95 winds but wont start problem,if not read post 220
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    yes, saw it
  • Thanks for the reply. I did have a vacuum leak but it was fixed. The throttle position sensor was replaced with a brand new one. Still having the problem though. My husband said air induction is fine. There's no leakage now. There's also a new map sensor. We've tried adjusting the idle, can't get it to idle correctly. Like I said before, when it's in park it idlesabout 1100, but the needle fluctuates. And when it's in gear it goes down to between 600 to 800. Any new ideas?? Thanks again..
  • My car is a 1996 2.2 4 cylinder. Isn't it a front wheel drive??
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