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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like a basic electrical problem. Check your battery terminal connections, and the voltage of the battery. Should be about 13+ volts, like 13.5-14.0 volts. If you don't have the correct voltage, then have an autoparts chain run a load test on your battery and alternato (usually a free test), to check that the alternator is putting out the current and voltaget needed to charge the battery, and the battery is holding the charge.

    If both of those are okay, then other end of the ground cable(non-battery end), to make sure there isn't any corrosion there. You can also check the resistance of that cable to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage.

    Then check the positive cable connection at the starter, to make sure there isn't any corrosion there either and it is a good tight connection. Caution to disconnect the battery while you are doing that, so that you (or your wrench) don't become the short to frame ground.

    Repetitive clicking can be a relay, which doesn't have enough voltage to stay latched.
  • So it turns out my third-party security system had an starter lockout relay. When I pulled the battery, it reset and armed the security system, which then kept my car from starting. I pulled the manual and set it to Valet mode, was able to start the car again.

    But, after idle operation for 5-10 minutes, my engine dies. No engine codes, no check engine light, it just stops firing. I connected the jumpers to test for the fuel pump being non-operational, but I was able to turn the fuel pump on. I also decided to try leaving the ignition on to see if I could heat up the Ignitor module. When I did this, 4 out of 5 times the car would not start at all. So for right now, I am guessing that it might be a bad Ignitor.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    does the security system turn the ignition off?
  • It has a starter disable relay for when it is armed.

    Actually, I forgot to check the internal resistance of the pickup coil as well. Turns out that the pickup coil is off its mark as well. Maximum internal resistance from G+ to G- terminals should be 275ohms, but mine is around 305ohms, so it looks like I may need a new distributor instead.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'm confused over your description of 'not starting'.

    Are you saying that the starter does not spin up and crank over the engine? or, are you saying that the starter spins, engages the engine, turns the engine, but the engine doesn't fire up and run?

    If your security system has a relay which stops the starter from getting it's power, then it won't spin and the engine won't crank.

    Which no-start symptom do you have?
  • The starter would not spin. That problem is gone because I just disarmed the security system and everything was cool.

    Having determined that the pickup coil was out of spec, I replaced the distributor, re-timed the engine, and drove the car yesterday for about 120 miles. Everything was great, except I noticed that it seems to lack power. Could that be an issue with the timing? Maybe I timed it incorrectly, not sure.

    I was driving it this morning down the Interstate, and the Check Engine light came on. The car did not stop driving, but something is definitely amiss, so I need to find a table of engine codes and which OBD pins I need to connect to be able to read them.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, I would suspect the timing is off. That could account for both the loss of power, and the check engine light on (due to fuel not being completely burned).

    You are probably also getting poor gas mileage.
  • I have a code manual, and if the timing is off, I would move the distributor slightly in the opposite direction of rotation( advancing timing).

    If you do this while running, you can hear the engine rev up and down. Always mark the distributor at the pad where it mounts on the engine for a good reference point. Then move off this reference in 1/16 inch increments.

    Checking codes for the 5S- engine, the manual shows the Data Link Connector at the brake master cylinder in the engine compartment next to the left fender. Opening the cover lid, you should see terminals in groups left and right. The group on the left is the diagnostic terminals. The upper right corner terminal and the one under neath it, is the diagnostic terminals. Also the terminal to the left of the one underneath.

    Short the terminal to the left to the terminal in the upper corner. Have the key on, but engine NOT running. Remove the jumper AFTER turning key off.

    The codes flash in .5 second flashes. If 2 is flashed, it takes 1 second. Then you will get a pause of 1.5 seconds and if their is a second digit it will flash. If its is 5, the light will flash 5x in 2.5 seconds. 25 is lean mixture. 3 is ignition signal.

    Codes start at 1 and go to 85 on your model. After both digits flash you get a 2.5 second pause and another code may flash if it is stored. This code retrieval repeats continuously until all codes have flashed. Then after 4.5 second pause it starts all over with the 1st code again.
  • My 02 Camry has 59,300 miles. In past 6 wks, the heat only comes out of the top (dash) vents. No Heat from the bottom, regardless of the settings on the dial. Dealer sez the heater box assembly needs to be replaced which means the dash wud have to be removed. Estimate for parts and labor $2997!!! LOL. Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions (other than live with it).
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    For $3K, I'd be getting a 2nd or 3rd opinion, and one of them would not be a dealership. Find a reputable independent service shop that handles Toyota's.

    I don't have my service manuals available, but I would hope that they could just fix whatever the problem part is, as opposed to replacing the whole heater box assembly. Heck, you just might have a bad selector switch.
  • Crazy $2,497.00 for heater box replacement? .

    There nothing wrong with the heater box. Its just a box. The heater switch is not sending a signal to the door that direct heat out of the box.

    Take your radio out and you can follow the cable to the heater box from the heater switch and the temp switch. Some cars you can see it from under the glove box. Remove the glove box too. Its just a couple screws. If you pinch the glove box sides to the center it drops down out of your way.

    Look on the box for any levers that move that is where the problem is.You can move them and see how it works.
  • beleive it or not

    the main issue was a pinced wire routed near drvr side trunk hinge
    was pinching and shorting to ground ( chassis)
    unbeleivable (forgot to let you know
    have a few more questions about older toyota
    92- 93
    does anyone know what need to be changed to put a 2.2 engine from a camry in a celica that came with a 1.8. does wiring harness need to be changed or just the computer?
    paul
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That would do it. As indicated, that circuit also feeds the tail lights, which I'm betting is the wiring that shorted out on you in the trunk.

    Glad you found it.
  • My check engine light went on I Just change my air intake valve. My car wont start up right away it sputteres and dies a few time then will stay on what is that
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you have this problem before you changed the air intake valve....or is this problem caused by you replacing the air intake valve?
  • Yes. And the check engine light is still on after it starts up it seems fine. Just the first 3 times it dies.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'm confused. You answered an"or" question, with a "yes", which you can't do. I'm trying to determine if the problem is related or caused by the new part you put in.

    1.) Did you have this problem, you put this part in to try and resolve, and now nothing is different.............(therefore, the problem is NOT related to that part).

    OR

    2.) You replaced that part (for some reason), and now you have this new problem which you didn't have before...............(therefore, the problem IS related to that part). If so, have you taken this new part out, and put the old part back in, to see if the symptoms change?
  • I didnt have this problem before my check engine light went on my light and the starting priblem happen at the sametime after that i was tring to see what was worng when i noted that the air intake valve was broken. I replaced the part thinking that was the problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Okay got it. You are situation #1. You had a problem, you put in a part which didn't necessarily fix the problem, and still have the original problem.

    Take your vehicle to get the error codes in the computer read, you're pretty much just shooting in the dark without having the computer give you the diagnostic trouble codes. You can then look up those error codes on the internet and they will tell you the error symptoms that the computer is receiving, which will point you to things that are the possible source of the problems. You have an older vehicle with the older style Diagnostic Trouble codes, so you will need to find a shop that can read those for you. I don't know if the autoparts chains (e.g. PepBoys, Autozone) can do that for you, you should call and ask first. Certainly the dealership or a competent repair facility would be able to do that.
  • What would be a reasonable price to replace a 99 Camry engine with a used engine and a new water pump, timing belt, plug wires, etc? Mine locked up at 205k miles and I'm trying to determine what price I should be expecting so as to not get jipped. I am in Georgia. What would be the price difference to expect for a rebuilt engine vs. just a used engine?

    Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yikes, I'd call around to a number of local shops in your yellow pages if you want estimates. You'll probably find them all hovering around a given range.

    You ought to consider however, that at 200K miles you certainly got your moneys worth out of it, and it may not be worth fixing, given at that many miles a number of other things would be expected to be near (or past) end of life. Any money being put into it at this point, may considered throw away money. A lot would depend on the overall condition of the car.

    Given the market condition, some great deals can be had on new vehicles which would then give you years of troublefree service, also covered under some long warranties now a days.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 705
    Good Morning:
    The answer to your question is $3600.00 to $5000.00 + installation!

    QUESTION: ----- Is your vehicle in good condition to justify this investment?

    Best regards. --------- Dwyane :shades: ;) :)
  • I have a leak in the power steering where the pressure hose connects to the fan pump. Does anyone know where I can go online to get maintenance instructions on how to replace the hose?
  • I think you have a leak on the pump itself for power steering?

    Mine is a V6 and I have good pics on how to do it. I have to put them on My Carspace page If the hose leaks going into the fan at the radiator, this hose is transmission fluid line.
  • gunga64gunga64 Posts: 271
    I have a 2001 camry with 150,000 miles. I figure its time to get some new spark plug wires. So I purchased some at autozone. I bought duralast wires.

    The car runs fine I can actually see an improvement. But when I took it to a mechanic for some other work they told me I should get oem wires and get rid of the duralast. Something about the engine running high.

    I paid 51.00 for the duralast and dealer wants 113.00 I am on a tight budget.

    I don't understand the runs high comment. The car is a 4 cylinder and has aways had a jumpy rpm on acceleration. It itles at 500 rpm, and at 40 miles per hour I am at 1200 rpm.At higher speeds it gets as high as 3000 rpm before switching to a higher gear. Should I bother to change these wires?
  • Hell no.

    Maybe in another 10 years. The wires transfer spark to the engine the better the spark the better it runs like you said.

    I own a 1993 V6 205K miles, bought used at 185K. Changed a spark plug the other day, because the cylinder had a miss.Still runs like a sewing machine.
  • The Camrys have a sensor for the cold start injector, sounds like that is bad or the sensor.
  • gunga64gunga64 Posts: 271
    Well I changed them did it b4 I got back online. It seems the RPM is the same
    as the non oem. But the car now gets to running speed noticably faster. It was worth the extra $42.00 to get OEM wires. Being that this camry has a V4 it needs as much hp as it can get and the nonoem seemed to cut it back. I also noticed how much better the oem wires were physically. As I took the new generic out a boot got stuck in the cylinder. Also the OEM wires were marked with numbers that showed the cylinder they go into. The dust covers also sealed the cylinder much tighter. One last thing they connected to the coil much much easier then the non oem. With those I had to force them on with a screwdriver to get them to click on. But the OEM required no force.
  • Good on the wires.

    Wires on Camrys are made to fit each cylinder individually I don't know if aftermarkets fit like OEM. You get what you pay for. Performance though, can not be too good when it comes to a part like this. The better the wires the better your engine will run. It seemed the mechanic was making your new wires out to be too good for your engine.

    I like to match up the boots from OEM to replacement part, to be sure they fit like OEMs Sounds like you got a better part with dealer. Always do.
  • I have a 1995 Camry Wagon 4 Cylinder with 178K miles on it. About a year ago it started to overheat during highway driving. Initially I replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostatic valve. However, the vehicle still overheated during highway driving while in bumper to bumper traffic. This lead me to replace the fans and fan control unit. For the past few months I had assumed the problem was fixed.

    However, this past weekend while driving to from DC to West Virginia after 90 minutes of highway driving at speed the temperature gauge indicated the car was overheat once we started to get into the mountains. I am uncertain the car was in fact overheating since the gauge would oscillate between a normal or slightly higher temperature and redlined in the course of 30 seconds, sometimes remain redlined for a minute (still ossilating somewhat), then return to normal for a few minutes before restarting. There were no abnormal odors while this was going on. When I pulled over the water lines were warm, but not hot enough to burn my hand, the radiator fans were on, there was coolant in the reservoir and the car seemed normal but for the gauge.

    At that point I turned around and drove home to change vehicles. The car mostly operated at normal temperature the entire ride home doing 70 mph.

    Does anyone have thoughts on what might be the cause of this? The vehicle overheated a number of times over the past year, could this have caused damage that would show up with these symptoms?
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