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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I'm only guessing, but have you had the temperature gauge checked? It sounds like it's not working properly. I would assume there'd be no permanent damage if you shut down the engine as soon as it started to overheat in the past.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have your engine checked for a blown headgasket.
  • Overheat?

    Sounds like you head gasket got compromised when it initially overheated. This could cause water coolant to be sucked out of the engine and the coolant level to get too low. Low coolant makes the heater feel cold and then hot. The temperature gauge could be oscillating because the water is not there and it starts to measure cooler air trapped inside the engine. Always check the radiator and not the reservoir The reservoir will fill up with coolant from the overheat.

    Anytime the gauge fluctuates past normal I immediately turn the heater on pop the hood, turn the key off when clear of the hwy, but leave in unlock, so I can still steer the car, coast to a stop. Then open the hood and hope your parked into a headwind to help cool the engine down.
  • I have a 96 4 cyl Camry and yesterday on the way home it started overheating when I was stopped. When I started again then the temp gauge went back to normal. All hoses are hot, but when I opened the hood and started the it up the fans never kicked on. I have checked all the relays whick look good. I have checked the fans and when put a direct current to them they work. They will also work when I turn on the A/C. Any idea that would cause the fans not to work after this?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 30A RDI Fan fuse. There are actually 3 fuses in the fan circuitry (15A-ECU/IG, 30A-RDI, 30A-CDS). Since both motors turn with the A/C the CDS fuse appears okay from the description of your symptoms.

    If that RDI doesn't fix it write back, I'll have you meter out some relays.
  • My 2002 Camry SE V-6 with 205,000 miles runs great. However, I've noticed a profound engine knock when starting. It only last a few seconds then it is followed by smooth running. Sometimes it seems to be running on only 5 cyclinders but that too goes away quickly. I've checked the oil...its fine but i do have a faulty "ck engine light" that comes on when nothing is wrong (according to the dlr), which means it probably doesn't come on when it should. Any thoughts?

    Ed
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What are the error codes from the computer, which turned on the check engine light. Many auto parts chains will read the error codes for you.

    I'm suspicious of the dlr telling you that they are 'false'. Don't you have to have it fixed before it will pass state inspection?
  • Maybe I mis-spoke on the CEL. When it is on and I have it checked at the dlr; there has never been anything wrong so they reset it. In Ohio, no vehicle inspections are required...at least here in my county.

    Ed
  • My 99 Camry will not fill up by using the gas pump nozzle click lever. I used to be able to set the nozzle to the highest setting but not I have to barely squeeze the nozzle handle to fill my gas tank; if I fill it too fast it just clicks off. It takes about 10 minutes to fill my gas tank. Frustrating! Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong or what to do. Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,155
    >Ohio, no vehicle inspections are required

    I believe the NE counties near Cleveland still suffer ECheck.
  • celeste3celeste3 Posts: 1
    car has over 100k miles,regular maintenance service,has had spark plugs and wires replaced 2 months ago,running roughly since,numerous visits to find problem,dealership and other service place unable to find problem-------

    now car is having intermittent starting problems,running roughly,with lots of white smoke----any ideas or suggestions?

    am too old and broke to buy another car----need to nurse this thing along------open to all responses--celeste
  • vik1234vik1234 Posts: 1
    Hello,

    i have a 97 camry and i live in the midwest. We were hit by a rain storm, and thereafter my problems arrose. I drove through a minor flooded area and after that my car seemed to be missfiring and check engine light came on I called up toyota and they recomend, i drive for a few days and it should just go away. I took it to autozone and they scanned it and said the same thing and maybe i would have to just change the spark plugs. 2 days later, the trac off light came on. Now both the check engine, trac off are on...are they both related to the same issue of a "wet engine" ? or totally diff problems. Any help is much appreciated.
  • emcqueenemcqueen Posts: 7
    I checked for error codes...none showed up. The knock is almost like there is no oil on some of the moving part (ie rod bearings)..thus a knock until oil begins pumping...then th engine runs very smooth.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Yes, that's correct.
  • badtimesbadtimes Posts: 1
    I notice that the headlights were on, on the car. And when I went to turn them off the ingnition was on too. I started the car and it starts. but when I turn everything off the ignitions lights(oil, check engine, park, fuel and more lights on the dash) are constantly on, even when the key is out and iginotion in the off position. I disconted the battery and reconected it after 6 hour and everything is still on. I am thinking that it is the securty system. is there a reset button on it. I think it is an after market unit. Can someone help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would do one more piece of diagnostics, just to confirm whether it is inside the engine or a device outside of the engine.

    With the engine cold, take off the serpentine belt. Now start the car as you would normally do and experience the noise. If the noise is still there, you have ruled out all of the other bolt-ons, and the noise is definitely from your engine (or the water pump).

    If the noise disappears, then you could have a bad bearing in say the alternator or tensioner pulley.
  • My 99 Camry will not fill up by using the gas pump nozzle click lever. I used to be able to set the nozzle to the highest setting but not I have to barely squeeze the nozzle handle to fill my gas tank; if I fill it too fast it just clicks off. It takes about 10 minutes to fill my gas tank. Frustrating! Does anyone have any ideas what is wrong or what to do. Thanks.
    Does anyone have any ideas?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Try a different gas station pump, change the angle of the handle into the filler neck (instead of verticle, try it turned at 45 degrees), and/or pull the handle out of the filler neck slightly.
  • ckoferckofer Posts: 1
    Hi I have a 99 Toyota Camry and when I drive it its okay but when I come to a stop or light it starts to want to turn off, the RPM meter starts to go down to zero and it turns off, I have to put it on Neutral and I have to step on the accelerator so it wont turn off, ANY IDEA?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    so you have no check engine lights, or error codes in the computer?

    How many miles on the vehicle, and what kind of preventive maintenance have you done on this vehicle?
  • ksk123ksk123 Posts: 1
    I own a 1996 Toyota Camry LE. Recently it had been having serious over heating problems, so I took it in to get repaired. The head gasket was replaced and ever since then everything was fine until this past weekend.

    I took the car for a long drive on the freeway, and I noticed the engine started to sound a bit different; the only way to explain this is that it sounded like it was making a higher pitched sound. I also noticed the check oil light started to light up, but only when I was at a red light or stopped.

    I figured I better get the car home, but on the way home the engine started to sound worse. Eventually, the engine started making a repeating, very loud clicking sound. The car suddenly stopped running and we pushed it to a local gas station and got it towed home.

    The next day, I went out and started the car. It does start, but that very loud clicking sound is still there. I also checked the oil, and noticed the level was about a fingers length past the full line.

    Does anyone know what the problem could be? Does it sound like a head gasket issue, since it was recently replaced? I’m hoping for this, because the repair was guaranteed.

    Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like you have a major engine mechanical problem.....crankshaft, bearing, piston, camshaft. I would NOT drive the vehicle anymore. I suspect you may have caused serious damage by the driving that you did after you heard the high pitched sound, and the check oil light on. Get a mechanic to check it out. At this point, this vehicle may now very well be burnt toast.
  • rassumrassum Posts: 2
    We have a 1996 Camry 4-cyl with 182,000 miles. We just spent $1500 to get a tune-up and fix an oil leak. Now, the transmission fluid is leaking and the mechanic quotes us a price of $1000 because he says they will have to move/takeout a lot of parts to fix. I am questioning if it really should cost this much.

    Also, twice when my son was driving the car on the expressway, it just stalled out. After waiting 10-15 minutes, the car starts right up and he has no problems. Any ideas on why this would happen? Could it be related to the transmission leak?

    Before I sink more money into this car, I want to get some idea on if the "stalling" issue might cost me another +$1000 to get fixed.

    It might be time to think about buying a new car and help stimulate the economy. I keep hearing about the great deals that are available.

    We have to make a decision this weekend on whether to get the car fixed or buy a new car. Your help is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Ryan
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Now is a great time to get a new Camry. The 2010s are being shipped to dealers, so they really want to get rid of the 2009 models. $1000 is a lot to put into a car with 182k miles.
  • Sell or Keep 1996 Camry

    You said the transmission gasket is leaking. How much oil is on the driveway? Your leak could be so small it isn't noticeable on the driveway or cause a failure of the transmission. Draining the pan of trans oil, removing the pan, and replacing the gasket is a cure for typical leaks on Toyota's. Only tools required are a 10mm socket and small ratchet. Find a good way to get under the car and its pretty easy.

    The stall at highway speed could be a loose wire connector going into the ignition system. On mine, I did a tune-up and put the connector on the ignition but did not click the wire connector into place. It would shut off intermittently.

    Ill try and post my change on MyCarSpace Rearwheeldrive 1990 Q-45.
  • Late response to above head gasket problem.

    You said your engine started making sounds of oil starvation. Since the oil was full and you had recent engine work done, I think they got the Head-Gasket on upside down. This could block the oil flowing from the top of the engine to the bottom. It must pass through some oil holes made in the gasket. Some gaskets look like they can go on either way but there's always a hole or two that wont line up correctly.

    Another test would be to start the engine and run it for a while, then shut the engine off and remove the valve cover. If there is a lot of oil on top of the cylinder head under the valve cover, this is not normal. Or you could shut it off and then check the oil level.

    If this is the problem, take it to another shop and ask them to take pictures of the gasket before they removed it. This will document the incorrect repair, if it is wrong. Then I would let them finish the repair correctly, and sue the other shop for a new engine you will probably need later on down the road.
  • White smoke?

    Are you handy with a spark plug socket and tools? I'd would pull the plugs and see which one is not golden brown.

    A 99 Camry will have a four cylinder or V6. I hope you have the easier 4 cylinder.
  • lewbie43lewbie43 Posts: 6
    I just failed my annual safety inspection because the left directional signal in my 1999 Camry was flashing much faster than the right one when the headlight switch is turned on. This does not happen when the daytime running lights are engaged, only with the light switch turned to the "on" position. What might be causing this? Thanks for any suggestions on how to isolate the problem and fix it.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Whenever you have different speeds of signalling, most of the time it is a bad dual-filament bulb.

    Dual filament bulbs, are used in the front and back of vehicles, where the low wattage filament is a running light that comes on with the headlights, and a higher wattage filament that is turned on when either the brakes are applied (back lights), or a turn signal is turned on (front and back lights on one side).

    If one of the filaments in the bulb breaks, and then lays across the other filament, the circuitry between the running lights gets crossed/shorted to the turn signal or brake circuit.

    Pull the bulbs on all four corners, and look very closely at the filaments. Personally, bulbs are cheap, so if you go to the effort to pull the covers off and get to the bulbs, just replace them. You can sometimes narrow it down which one to look at by looking VERY carefully at the intensity of each bulb at night, when the running lights are on....and then also look at what happens when the brakes or turn signals are applied. Takes two people to do this.

    When you replace the bulb, you have to look very carefully at the two prongs that are on the sides of the brass base. They are a different length from the base end, one closer to the base end than the other. If you look in the socket, you will see two corresponding grooves, one goes in deeper than the other. You need to get the bulb in correctly, or else the wrong filament lights up (for instance, the bright filament might turn on with the running lights, and the dim filament with the brake lights....obviously a wrong condition).
  • rex16rex16 Posts: 2
    My camry's (Auto) gears 1 and 2 drops low or doesn't work in time once my car touches the 60km? I have had the whole gearbox serviced. Is it to do with any of the sensors?
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