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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
  • Thanks so much Kiawah, I really appreciate it.

  • I own a 1995 Toyota Camry 2.2 engine. Recently I gauge inside said the engine was getting hot. I checked my radiator fluid and it was good. I then changed the Thermostat, relay fan switches, Temp sensor and Radiator Coolant sensor and still the gauge is getting hot. I was told there is another relay switch for the radiator but can't seem to place where it goes. I checked and both the fans are working which tells me the fan relay switches are working but I can't seem to figure out what I am missing and why I can't seem to fix the problem. Anybody else have this issue and figured a solution? :sick:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd check to see if the waterpump was pumping. With the engine cold, take off the radiator cap. Turn on the engine and allow it to idle. The thermostat would be closed at this point, and you would have no flow. As the engine warms up, the thermostat should begin to open and you should see the coolant begin to move. The hotter the engine gets, the more the fluid should move.

    You might also check to make sure you don't have a lot of crude in your radiator, blocking the coolant flow thru the radiator.
  • Looking for a picture and location of a 2001 Toyota Camry light sensor module.

    Warning light coming in saying "replace brake light". All brake lights are working. Assuming problem is light sensor module.

    Would appreciate any one's help with on-line source for a picture and purchase sight.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not sure how you concluded a replace brake warning light, is a possible problem with a light sensor.

    I'd suggest taking it to an autoparts chain, and have them read the error codes for you (or buy your own reader and do it yourself). Let's see if we can get an error code which will point you to the right area.
  • Hi,
    I just purchased a Toyota Camry xle v6 from a seller.
    It has 74k miles on it.
    I got it inspected from Pepboys before purchasing it.
    It seems the previous owner has not done any 60k servicing to the car.
    Can you folks please suggest me what are the things to be done. This is my first car, so i dont have much knowledge about this.
  • pete60pete60 Posts: 1
  • fergytfergyt Posts: 1
    1999 camry Le with 150K miles. there is $2000 front end body damage. The rest of the car is of average quality. Does not seem to be any mechanical problems. Still runs, uses 1/2 quart of oil per month. New tires, brakes (1 year ago). Water pump etc replaced at 109K. I guess the options are fix or sell for parts. Trying to decide what to do.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Did you get an owner's manual packet? It has the maintenance recommendations in it.
  • Any have info on removal and replacement of a 2003 Camry rear bumper cover. Do I get to the bolts thru the trunk or underneath???? Bad deal. I backed in to the mother in law and bent up the right corner and my wife backed in to the principle at our daughters school for a matching dent on the left.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Underneath, but perhaps you should have reverse gear disabled before replacing the cover. Just kidding. At least you have matching dents.
  • is there some sort of shroud to take off as well.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    No shroud of any kind, but you have to remove the taillights first from inside the trunk to gain access to the upper clips holding the bumper cover on.
  • My 2000 Camry wipers started to slow down and then one day stopped working. I checked fuse and it was good. After a period of time (weeks, perhaps a month) I tried the wipers out of the blue and they worked again. Althought they were still slow (no high speed). About a week ago they stopped working again. The fuse is OK. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Either your wiper motor is bad, or the wiper switch is bad.
  • This car is driving me insane. It's a 92 Toyota Camry 4 cyl with 2.2L engine. The battery is brand new and tests fine. The alt also tests fine. The problems started with the battery suddenly just going completely dead and being recharged everything worked fine. Then it started dying while being driven and it would die when you tried to accelerate from a complete stop. It kind of sputtered like it wasn't getting enough fuel but then if you got up to speed no problem. Then I realized the fuses located in the little box attached to the pos bat cable were bad and I replaced the whole component and fuses. I'm not sure how to test the relays in the fuse box... I tested the others with a continuity tester I also tested the fuse outlets with a cont. tester and a weird thing occurred... it made the light ( on the cont) light up but when turning the key over to start it the light went off. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with my problem(s). I'm thinking maybe a diode is bad and that's why the battery is fine when driven and is drained of power when sitting. But now the car wont start... it will turn and turn and nothing. It will kind of start to putter but never starts. This has been the chain of events leading to the death of my girlfriends nightmare vehicle. Any.... any, ideas, thoughts, comments... concerns would be greatly appreciated.


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hard to tell exactly what is wrong remotely from what you write, but let's try to at least move the ball forward.

    I don't know what you have for a continuity tester, so I don't know what the results mean. I assume by using a continuity tester on the fuses, you are using an ohmmeter which measures the resistance, and that resistance is now showing a short with no resistance.

    You say the continuity tester has a light on it. When is the light on that tester supposed to go on, and what does it indicate when it's on? Is it indicating that it has detected a voltage, and if so what is the minimum voltage that it is indicating? Or is the light indicating that there is a minimum resistance (of some level) between two probes of the tester?

    I'm suspecting that what you are finding with your tester (light goes off when you crank starter), is not really a problem.....but it isn't really clear to me what and how your tester is measuring.

    The starter puts the maximum load on a battery, so if your starter is running fine then I assume that your battery output is fine, as well as the connection to the main power buss (no corrosion on battery terminals, and you replaced the first fuse box holder and fuses).

    So with the engine turning via the starter (but not starting up), the next place to look is for fuel delivery, compression in the cylinders, and electrical spark.

    I'd suggest pulling the plugs and checking their status (how old are they, is the gap still correct, do they need replaced?) . What color are they collectively, and individually? Are the blackened showing too rich condition or buring oil? Are the wet showing flooding/too rich? Is one color different than the others, showing valve/electrical spark/compression problem? What condition are your electrical wires and rotor?

    If all of those check out fine, or you find differences in the look of the plugs, then consider doing a cylinder compression test to verify that your valves and rings are okay.

    From a fuel delivery perspective, you need to know that your fuel pump is working and able to deliver fuel.

    I don't know what diode you are referring to. Diodes are used to convert alternating current to direct current (your battery). There are diodes in the alternator, but you indicated that the alternator checks out okay. Was that comment just a shot in the dark type of statement, or are you suspecting one of the alternator diodes?
  • c_laytc_layt Posts: 2
    I recently had my drivers side control panel for my power windows melt and nearly catch fire (car now smells like burning plastic). Its well beyond repair, I tryed a replacement but it started smoking too (luckily the wreckers let me test it out in the car and it didt cost me anything). I found that the short wasnt in the actual master control but in the rear passenger side window switch, the contacts had welded together so the window was trying to go up and down at the same time.
    I was getting 12V from the connector that goes to the master switch, but now its only getting around 6V. Im guessing theres another fuse or something fairly obvious that blew when I tryed the second switch (since then its only putting out 6V). The only fuse ive found to be blown is the obd fuse. Are there any other fuses relays etc that affect the power going to the master switch?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The circuit is powered by the 30A "Power" Fuse, and goes thru the "Power" Relay. There is some control circuitry for the window that is powered via the 25A "Door" fuse, and the 10A "Gauge" fuse.
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