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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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  • Any have info on removal and replacement of a 2003 Camry rear bumper cover. Do I get to the bolts thru the trunk or underneath???? Bad deal. I backed in to the mother in law and bent up the right corner and my wife backed in to the principle at our daughters school for a matching dent on the left.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 551
    Underneath, but perhaps you should have reverse gear disabled before replacing the cover. Just kidding. At least you have matching dents.
  • is there some sort of shroud to take off as well.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    No shroud of any kind, but you have to remove the taillights first from inside the trunk to gain access to the upper clips holding the bumper cover on.
  • My 2000 Camry wipers started to slow down and then one day stopped working. I checked fuse and it was good. After a period of time (weeks, perhaps a month) I tried the wipers out of the blue and they worked again. Althought they were still slow (no high speed). About a week ago they stopped working again. The fuse is OK. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Either your wiper motor is bad, or the wiper switch is bad.
  • This car is driving me insane. It's a 92 Toyota Camry 4 cyl with 2.2L engine. The battery is brand new and tests fine. The alt also tests fine. The problems started with the battery suddenly just going completely dead and being recharged everything worked fine. Then it started dying while being driven and it would die when you tried to accelerate from a complete stop. It kind of sputtered like it wasn't getting enough fuel but then if you got up to speed no problem. Then I realized the fuses located in the little box attached to the pos bat cable were bad and I replaced the whole component and fuses. I'm not sure how to test the relays in the fuse box... I tested the others with a continuity tester I also tested the fuse outlets with a cont. tester and a weird thing occurred... it made the light ( on the cont) light up but when turning the key over to start it the light went off. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with my problem(s). I'm thinking maybe a diode is bad and that's why the battery is fine when driven and is drained of power when sitting. But now the car wont start... it will turn and turn and nothing. It will kind of start to putter but never starts. This has been the chain of events leading to the death of my girlfriends nightmare vehicle. Any.... any, ideas, thoughts, comments... concerns would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Adam

    E-Mail: Adam_Michael_00@yahoo.com
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hard to tell exactly what is wrong remotely from what you write, but let's try to at least move the ball forward.

    I don't know what you have for a continuity tester, so I don't know what the results mean. I assume by using a continuity tester on the fuses, you are using an ohmmeter which measures the resistance, and that resistance is now showing a short with no resistance.

    You say the continuity tester has a light on it. When is the light on that tester supposed to go on, and what does it indicate when it's on? Is it indicating that it has detected a voltage, and if so what is the minimum voltage that it is indicating? Or is the light indicating that there is a minimum resistance (of some level) between two probes of the tester?

    I'm suspecting that what you are finding with your tester (light goes off when you crank starter), is not really a problem.....but it isn't really clear to me what and how your tester is measuring.

    The starter puts the maximum load on a battery, so if your starter is running fine then I assume that your battery output is fine, as well as the connection to the main power buss (no corrosion on battery terminals, and you replaced the first fuse box holder and fuses).

    So with the engine turning via the starter (but not starting up), the next place to look is for fuel delivery, compression in the cylinders, and electrical spark.

    I'd suggest pulling the plugs and checking their status (how old are they, is the gap still correct, do they need replaced?) . What color are they collectively, and individually? Are the blackened showing too rich condition or buring oil? Are the wet showing flooding/too rich? Is one color different than the others, showing valve/electrical spark/compression problem? What condition are your electrical wires and rotor?

    If all of those check out fine, or you find differences in the look of the plugs, then consider doing a cylinder compression test to verify that your valves and rings are okay.

    From a fuel delivery perspective, you need to know that your fuel pump is working and able to deliver fuel.

    I don't know what diode you are referring to. Diodes are used to convert alternating current to direct current (your battery). There are diodes in the alternator, but you indicated that the alternator checks out okay. Was that comment just a shot in the dark type of statement, or are you suspecting one of the alternator diodes?
  • c_laytc_layt Posts: 2
    I recently had my drivers side control panel for my power windows melt and nearly catch fire (car now smells like burning plastic). Its well beyond repair, I tryed a replacement but it started smoking too (luckily the wreckers let me test it out in the car and it didt cost me anything). I found that the short wasnt in the actual master control but in the rear passenger side window switch, the contacts had welded together so the window was trying to go up and down at the same time.
    I was getting 12V from the connector that goes to the master switch, but now its only getting around 6V. Im guessing theres another fuse or something fairly obvious that blew when I tryed the second switch (since then its only putting out 6V). The only fuse ive found to be blown is the obd fuse. Are there any other fuses relays etc that affect the power going to the master switch?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The circuit is powered by the 30A "Power" Fuse, and goes thru the "Power" Relay. There is some control circuitry for the window that is powered via the 25A "Door" fuse, and the 10A "Gauge" fuse.
  • c_laytc_layt Posts: 2
    Thank you so much!!! I bent the little bits of fuse wire inside the 30amp fuse to reconnect them and now get the higher voltage. Im off to town to get a new fuse and see if the wreckers can order me in a new master switch, might take me a while to get my hands on one but ill do a follow up post and confirm its working. Thank you again
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, congrats....glad it worked out.
  • Hi,
    I have a 2001 Camry Collectors Edition. Regular oil changes/maintenance. Recently the check engine light went on, at first the dealer said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. Then they called back, saying they are having a hard time taking off the oxygen sensor because the manifold may be broken and they may have to replace the manifold? This is going to cost $1300 per the dealer, and I was wondering if there was a TSB or something covered under any kind of warranty to reduce the costs. My car only has about 46000 miles.
    Mahalo!!
  • sliroesliroe Posts: 1
    2005 Camry drivers side door does not lock or unlock automatically with the drivers side door electrical switch or keychain pog. Door will unlock mechanically with key turn. The 3 other doors and trunk do open with keychain pog and drivers side door switch. Door does unlock mechanically inside when individual door lock lever is swung inside door. Typically unless I want to use my key if I have a passenger I need them to manually reach over and unlock the drivers door. Door latch works fine. I typically do work on my car myself. Anyone know how to trouble shoot or what part I should replace?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Take the inside of the door panel off, and check the linkages from the door lock to the actuator.
  • I have 2001 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinders. I have owned the card since Jan 05 / 87K miles. I well-maintained the car since . The car is currently @ 140k miles. Here is what is going on with my car.

    - When I bought the car, I used to get 33 MPG on average between Highway/City driving.

    Lately (5 month ago), the car MPG went down to 22 MPG. I took the car to mechanic shop, which changed Air/Fuel filters, spark plugs , balanced tires, did some other tune ups . These misc. repairs did not result in any improvements.

    - In the last year or so, every time I speed up to 60 MPH or more usually in highway, I either smell burnt rubber or any bad smell.

    - Two days ago, check engine light came on; the mechanic put it in computer which indicated problem with catalytic converter.

    Any idea what is going on with my car? Are all these issues related? Any suggestions to fix the MPG issue?

    Appreciate help in this regard
  • Should I avoid purchasing a 1995 Camry wagon (4 cyl/2.2L) with 125,000 miles that appears to have been well maintained? How could one possibly know if the engine will develop the sludge problem? What exactly could be the cause in engines with regular maintenance? Owners of this generation either love it or hate it. How can this be?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    It will be as good or better than any car with 125,000 miles - as long as the proper maintenance was done, it will be fine. Consumers Reports shows no major issues with this year or generation, in fact, it is extremely reliable.
  • Iwas wondering if you got any answers. I had a 1994 Camry (4cyl.) with 140k. The rod snapped, went through the engine block, damaged other parts and the engine is "toast". They said the sludge build-up was the probable cause (poor maintenance) but I or the shop changed the oil every 3-4k. It was agreat car otherwise, but makes me leary about a new camry. The engine should have lasted longer. Any ideas as to how to prevent such a problem?
  • :confuse: I recently had a problem where my engine would hesitate then try to cut out. Well after i turn it off for 1/2 hour then startedback up it was fine. Well i took it to an auto parts store and the guy in there hooked up the scanner got no codes. Ive had this problem for a year now and noone knows how to fix it. Well after he took off the scanner a new light came on that said vsc/trac off. the light will not go off. When i first start driving it the light is off the after 60 seconds light comes on and stays on. Ive been reading different things about what this light is for. Can someone tell me is it just an indicator that breaks need to be replaced? And is it safe to drive with light on?
    :)
  • I had the same engine sludge problem. i actually got a recall notice from Toyota last year and received a new engine. I had to produce the receipts for my oil changes and they changed it for free. You may want to check into that with toyota.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The two problem are unrelated I would think. You need to see a mechanic you can trust (doesn't have to be the dealer). The VSC/Trac off means your electronic stability control and traction control systems are not functioning. You can still drive the car safely for the time being.
  • your car is out of warr. the problem is the o2 sensor will sieze in the exhaust manifold. my question is what made the o2 sensor come on. did they just read the code and not the freeze frame data. i would ask to recheck.
  • thanks for the response. it ended up not being the manifold. for some reason, the o2 sensor was "stuck?". it ended up costing almost $600, mostly for labor charges. after the fact, i had a coworker who said he could have done it for around $150. :cry:
  • Ok, its funny though that the light came on. It only did so after the guy at the auto parts store hooked up his computer to see if there were any codes for the first thing. Is it possible that he hit a button and turned it off through the computer? Also, does it have to do with the breaks? Do they need to be checked? would worn break pads cause the problem? :confuse:
  • Writing in from Boston, where as of today it has been frigidly cold for about 5 days. About 9 days ago I filled up my tank. Since filling up, much to my horror, my mileage has sunk from an average of 25 mpg to about 14mpg. Went to the dealer to check this out. Air and oil filters are fine. Tire pressure is fine. They suggested on fuel injection cleaner system at $100+ and I passed per professional (outside the dealership, my usual mechanic) advice. They saw my coolant and tranny fluids were dirty and I went ahead and changed them out. I also changed oil as it was due.

    Three questions:
    The dealership can't explain the drop in my mileage except for the cold. Can it all be blamed on this reason, or is there something else to look at?

    According to them, my tranny and coolant fluids were dirty. I last changed them at 46K. Is this normal to need to do after 30K? Can this (wishfully) explain the mileage problem?

    They put a sticker in my car to remind me of 5,000 mile oil change, but I thought the conventional wisdsom was back to 3,000. Any ideas?

    Thank you!
  • stujstuj Posts: 2
    I started the car to warm up one cold morning and went back in the house, The car was parked on a steep sideways hill and after a few mins it apparently ran out of fuel I went out to leave after an hour and it had run the battery down (with ignition, fan, and lights on). I set a battery and jumpers under the hood and released the ignition and put it in neutral and rolled it back to flat ground. I cranked fuel into it once flat and it started right up. Now,,,,,, I have no dash gauges, no heater fan, no running lights, no temp, no fuel level, no tach, no speedo, no windows. I am puzzled. Headlights work, but no overdrive on the freeway.
    can someone offer me a starting place to diagnose what is wrong and how to fix it. I am curious on theories of what caused this. Thanks in advance
    stu_johns@hotmail.com
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your 100Amp ALT fuse, I think you'll find it fried.
  • stujstuj Posts: 2
    Thanks,, 100 AMP is fine,, looked good and even took it out and checked it.. any other ideas? Stu
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Stu,

    Check your hotmail, sent you a picture that will help. Focus on identifying the items that are working and not working. You may be downstream one fuse from the 100ALT, if you can verify a device on one of the tree limbs off the 100ALT is working okay.

    Good luck
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