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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Look in the paper in the location/geography that she is in.

    Labor and costs vary by location, but it is a very generic service that companies advertise prices all the time.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    She lives in Ct. I do too but not there now. I just thought someone would have had their rotors replaced and could give me an estimate. Thanks
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    edited March 2010
    Okay so my Camry goes nuts from time to time. Before, when I had my ignition on "ON" (before starting the car) the two cooling fans used to run. Then I started the car and continued which does not make sense because i thought they don't start running until it gets hot. But my car was kept cool and I didn't have any overheating problems so i let it be. Then after 2 months, it didn't work at all, then it worked again :confuse: (i know its crazy right?) But then I had a minor puncture on a hose which distributes coolant to the engine. if I remember correctly, its a big hose on one end it connected to the radiator cap which says do not open when hot and the other end is connected to the engine. Since the hose was punctured all the pressure thats supposed to remain inside was blowing out and evaporating into steam that reeked of coolant. Now, my fan was not working anymore at all even though my engine temperature went all the way into the red. So I quickly went to the shop and got that hose replaced (not a big deal). Told the mech about my fan and he said it was some sensor defect. He did something and then it worked again for another week then again it stopped working. :mad:

    So I have the risk of overheating my engine on hot days as summer comes closer even thought coolant is being transfered in to the engine to cool it, the fan isnt working what should I do?

    And one more thing, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel recently stopped working. it stays at cold all the time now and doesn't go up at all even though the engines hot. Now i have an even bigger problem because I cant tell when my engine is starting to overheat :mad:
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    Okay so my Camry goes nuts from time to time. Before, when I had my ignition on "ON" (before starting the car) the two cooling fans used to run. Then I started the car and continued which does not make sense because i thought My car was kept cool and I didn't have any overheating problems so i let it be. Then after 2 months, it didn't work at all, then it worked again :confuse: (i know its crazy right?) But then I had a minor puncture on a hose which distributes coolant to the engine. if I remember correctly, its a big hose on one end it connected to the radiator cap which says do not open when hot and the other end is connected to the engine. Since the hose was punctured all the pressure thats supposed to remain inside was blowing out and evaporating into steam that reeked of coolant. Now, my fan was not working anymore at all even though my engine temperature went all the way into the red. So I quickly went to the shop and got that hose replaced (not a big deal). Told the mech about my fan and he said it was some sensor defect. He did something and then it worked again for another week then again it stopped working. :mad:

    So I have the risk of overheating my engine on hot days as summer comes closer even thought coolant is being transfered in to the engine to cool it, the fan isnt working what should I do?

    And one more thing, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel recently stopped working. it stays at cold all the time now and doesn't go up at all even though the engines hot. Now i have an even bigger problem because I cant tell when my engine is starting to overheat :mad:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    This is fairly easy for a competent garage to fix. There are basically 3 sets of components this all work.

    There are two coolant sensors that sense the temperature of the coolant water in the engine, and send that information to the car computer. The computer sends the info to the gauge, so the gauge can tell you what the engine temperature is. The computer also controls the fan circuitry, and also includes as an input infromation from the air conditioner freon pressure.

    Based upon the engine temperature and the A/C needs, the computer will turn on a series of 3 relays. Those relays are what supply power to the two fan motors, and allow them to be off, low speed, or high speed.

    There are a couple diagnostic approaches to determine what is wrong. In your case, because your gauge is not working, one would suspect one of the temperature coolant sensors. You can take the sensor out, put it in a pan of water, start heating the water, and measure the resistance of the terminals with a meter. Or you can just replace them.

    Another diagnostic approach is to take the relays out, and again with an ohmeter measure the resistance of the secondary relay points, in both scenarios when the primary is engergized, and also when it is at rest. The technician needs to know how the relay is wired internally, to be able to check whether they are okay or not.

    One can also unplug the fan motors, and supply battery voltage directly to the fans, and see if the electric motors are fine and spin when given power. Sometimes fan motors bind up and won't spin. Since 'both' of yours aren't working, I suspect the problem is something other than the fans, like the sensors or the relays.

    I should also mention that there are three fuses supplying power to the circuitry, the 15A ECU-G, the 30A RDI fan, and the 30A CDS fan.

    So a competent garage can determine whether your problem is part of the sensors and control circuitry, the power circuitry of the fuses and relays, or the fans themselves. With the symptoms as you indicate, I would initially suspect the sensors....but, you might have another problem as well.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    already answered this on your other post..........
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    First of all, thank you so much! Your reply was clear, concise and it flowed well.

    You're right I don't think its the fan motors either. So basically the key problem areas could be either the temperature coolant sensor or the relays or both right? Do you have any idea on how much they would cost to replace or fix? And where are these actually located on the engine?

    Once again I appreciate your help.
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed with 169k on it. The car has a check engine light that comes on after a few minutes of driving it seems to be on a timer as it comes on after a couple of minutes not right away. I need some help here as this is a older car. What makes/triggers the check engine light to come on in a 87 Camry and what can I do to find out what is the problem? Also I might add I saw a diagnosis plug near the battery under the hood I was wondering where can I get a device that will plug in there and let me know what the light means? I guess I should 1st ask do they make a device like that for such a older diagnosis system on that car?
    Also is there a code system on that car like on my Honda where I can find out what that engine light means? Thanks so much for the help as I have no clue what to do 1st here or how to find out what is going on.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello there,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and have a question on what kind of throttle body cleaner to use to clean the throttle body? I ask this because the car is so old and there are many kinds i.e. Deep creek sea foam, throttle body cleaner, and many others. Please advise me on the best one to use as I am afraid of using a brand/kind that might damage the IAC unit. Thanks for your help in this matter.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the rear of the car is sagging down quite low. I have replaced the shocks they are new and working fine. I am thinking the problem here is the coil springs are sagging down low with the age of the car and perhaps this is a problem with this car please advise me with this question? I would like to know why/what is causing this and how to fix the problem. If indeed it is the coil springs then please advise me if its worth the effort and money of changing out and putting new coil springs on the car it has 170k on it. I think that it would be quite risky to change the coil springs in my car due to age, rust, rust on bolts back there, and taking apart so much of the car in the rear. Again I don't know that is why I am here asking so please advise me here as I am sure there is others on here who have had the same problem with the back of the car sagging low. Thanks for your help in advising me here as to what the problem is and what to do to fix the problem.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and had a problem with the taillights not coming on when the lights are turned on. The symptom of the problem is as follows. When the lights are turned on one of the taillights will not light up and the warning light comes on in the instrument panel to let you know. However the taillights do come on when you hit the brake pedal. I fixed the problem by running a ground wire from somewhere on the frame to the taillight apparatus in the back of the taillight. Both taillights when out 1 at a time though and I fixed both by doing the same thing running a ground to the taillight that was not working and was out.

    My question is this to everyone what caused the problem in the 1st place and did I fix it properly? I ask this because when I was reading the forums it said somewhere that there is a relay for the taillights located in the rear of the car somewhere did not say where though. So my thinking here is perhaps a relay in the trunk somewhere went bad causing the problem of the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on and I did not fix the problem correctly. Can someone please advise me as to what is the proper fix and the cause of this problem with the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on? Thanks for you help in this matter as I am sure someone on here has gone through this problem and must know the correct answer please advise.
    Dave
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    It would be no more difficult, than replacing the strut, assuming they make the part.

    Normally when you replace a strut, they are replacing the inside piece that looks like a shock absorber.

    They pull out the whole strut assembly (integrated spring and shock), take it apart (take the spring off the shock piece), put the new shock piece inside the old spring and tension it, and then put the whole assembly back in the vehicle. Note: whenever you take any of the suspension pieces out, you would also then re-align the vehicle to make sure it tracks straight down the road and doesn't have abnormal tire wear.

    Call your local parts store and/or look online, and see if they sell the complete strut assembly with spring for your year, make, model vehicle. If they do, the labor repair would be easier than a normal strut change (as they would be just swapping out the whole assembly). The part would cost more because you are also buying the spring, but the labor to repair is slightly easier. Whether the parts store is stocking these parts (or perhaps they could order for you) for a 23 year old vehicle, only they could tell you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have the specifics of your vehicle taillight assembly, but I am assuming that it is a dual filament bulb, as most vehicles.

    This means there are two separate electrical circuits that go back to the bulb, and the bulb (if you look closely) has two filaments inside of it.

    One circuit is dim when that powered, and is the tail light circuit that comes on when you turn the lights on. That circuit has a relay you reference.

    The other circuit is bright when powered, and is the brake light. When you put on the brake there is a switch up under the dash that then supplies power to that circuit.

    Usually when people have light problems, either the bulb is bad (filament broken, or bent over and touching the other filament), or the bulb has some corrosion/crud in the socket and it's not making a good electrical connection, or more rarely the bulb assembly is getting corrosion and not making a good ground to the metal of the quarter panel.

    I would suggest you buy two new replacement bulbs (look up the correct bulb replacement in your owners manual in case someone has put in a wrong bulb in the past), with some sandpaper clean out the inside of the socket - sides and contact points at the bottom so it's nice and clean), and then put the bulb in and look closely at the filaments while someone turns on the lights and/or applies the brakes.

    You should notice with a dual filament bulb, that the pins on the side of the bulb should mount only one way in the socket, so that the correct filament (dim or bright), is lit. One pin is further down on the side than the other pin, and it should fit into the side of the socket that has the groove further down.
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Thanks for all that info I appreciate it very much. I will have to see if they sell that as one piece thanks again.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Thanks very much for all that info I concur with you on what to do. I think the problem is a faulty ground somewhere as the car has a lot of rust in the rear of the car. Thanks again for your help.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello to all,
    1st off I want to thank everyone on these forums for answering my numerous ?'s and helping me you guys/girls are the best. I have another dilemma now here is it...

    Solution to my 87 Camry Sagging low in the rear as follows. I went and took off 2 whole assembly (coil, shock, & strut all together) at the junk yard today off a 91 Camry with 93k ORGINAL WOW got lucky there.

    Okay so my ? here is when I disconnect the rear brake line to (drum brakes wheel cylinder) can I leave it hanging upright so it does not leak out or is it better to leave it dripping out in a pan? The other ? is do I need to bleed the brakes when I reconnect the brake line back and if so how? I don't have a helper just me so please don't type for me to have someone pump the brake pedal while I bleed the brakes as I am looking for another way to do this job on my own here. I was told 3 ways 1 do NOTHING just disconnect then reconnect the brake line (since it is rear brakes) it should be okay and not have air in system. 2nd after disconnecting the brake line squeeze the brake line with vice grips to stop the brake fluid from coming out then reconnect and that is it. 3rd to let the brake line drip into a pan and after reconnecting it back loosen the bleeder screw and let a little air out then repeat steps until air is gone. Note on the 3rd option they said not to pump the brake pedal as they knew I don't have anyone to help me do that. I am guessing that they are saying by loosening the bleeder screw a couple of times a little that will let air out. Please advise me which option is best or the CORRECT way to do this job. Also another ? is should I loosen the bleeder screw a little bit before I disconnect the brake line? Please advise me here as I have never done this the correct way and I would like to learn this time around thanks.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello to all,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and have a problem with the idle dropping low when I start the car ONLY after it is extremely hot (been traveling far). The weird thing is it only does it intermittently and it can easily be fixed by either giving the car a lot of gas (revving up the motor) or turn the car off (or let it conk out) then restart the engine. Okay so I am giving up here the following is a list of what I have done to fix the problem.....
    egr valve replaced & cleaned, egr valve solenoid/modulator inspected and tiny filter replaced, all vacuums lines inspected visually and by hand thoroughly, sensors i.e. tps and numerous others unplugged while the engine was running to test them and make sure they were working properly. In addition throttle body cleaned thoroughly, pcv/hose/tube cleaned & replaced. So again I am perplexed here as to what to check next or where to look? Can someone please help/advise me here and what to look for next and what they thing it might be. I am sure someone on these forums has had it happen to them or something similar look forward to hearing from you thanks.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello to all,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the clutch plate was worn too low (long story). So I had the whole kit i.e. clutch, plate, and everything else that comes in kit replaced. The car ran fine for a while (about 7 months) then one day after driving a long time the clutch would not come out of gear. After forcing it out of gear it would then would not go back into any gear. If I would force it into a gear it then would have extreme problems going out of gear. So I went back to the mechanic who installed the clutch and he sent me to a neighbor mechanic who installed a entire NEW clutch and kit again. In the end the mechanic did not say what happened or what caused this but they were mad at each other. So I am guessing here that perhaps some bolt or something was not tightened down or done correctly causing the job to be redone again.

    My ? is what would cause this to happen (described above about not coming out or going into gear)? Next ? is when you are doing the job of installing a whole clutch kit are there some sensitive bolts/areas that if not done correctly would cause serious problems in the future such as what happened to me? Please advise me here thanks so much for your help in this matter. I am sure someone on here knows and has had a similar experience please share.
    Dave
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You can wear a clutch out, by either the operator riding the clutch when shifting gears, or if it is out of adjustment. Can't see you drive and shift, so hard to determine which of the two it may be.

    An out of adjustment clutch is most noticeable while driving in the highest gear, if you press on the gas pedal and the engine revs up without the vehicle speeding up.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited April 2010
    If you disconnect the brake line, it is going to leak and drip. You need to do that fast to minimize what drains out, as you do NOT want the system to drain out completely and get air into the master cylinder. You will find it very hard to bleed if you allow this to happen. Since the wheels are lower than the master cylinder, when you disconnect the brake line, the line will drip out and drain the system completely.

    Do not squeeze a brake line, as you will damage the line risking a rupture of the line at some point when you are driving, loosing fluid and your brakes. Could be a deadly situation for you.

    They do make a pressure bleeder system (expensive) which mounts onto the master brake cylinder and pressurizes the brake system, which allows one person to bleed the system at the wheels. They also make a little cheap manual vacuum pump system, which allows you at the wheel to 'pull' a vacuum (negative pressure).

    You should really have a 2nd person pump the brake pressure up for you, I've had my little kids do it in a pinch. Have them pump three times and hold the brake pedal down, while you then open the bleeder screw releasing the air. You then close the bleeder screw, and tell them to release the brake and do it again. Repeat until all of the air is out of the line, and you have a solid brake pedal. Do not ever allow the master brake reservoir to run low that air could enter.

    You MUST bleed the brake system, if you open it up.

    You should do a lot more research on how to bleed brakes if you are going to attempt this yourself. It would be good to get assistance from someone who knows what they are doing. You could easily find yourself with a vehicle sitting in your driveway that you can't drive because you have no brakes.

    Regarding your strut/springs replacements. Are you intending to put new struts into those spring assembly's? With 93K miles, those very well could be shot. Whoever disconnects the springs from the strut assembly needs to have a tool to take the springs off, they are under compression and will shoot you across the room (causing you great bodily harm) if not done correctly. They also need to be re-assembled with the spring in the correct rotational position around the strut.
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello there,
    I think I should have explained the strut thing better so let me clarify it for you. The strut assembly I got (the whole assembly coil, shock, & strut all together) is already together and ready to install. That is why I had to get it from the junk yard because no store sells the unit already together they make you take apart the coil spring like you said. I am not doing that as I already know its quite dangerous. Hence why I got the whole unit ready to install.

    As for the brakes I will get someone to help me if I can. Thanks for you help in this matter.
    Dave
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited April 2010
    But if the strut unit (shock and spring combo unit) has 90K miles on it, if the shock piece is not already shot.....it is probably very close to being bad.

    I understand the concept of buying the assembly to get 'new' springs to replace your sagging ones, but then you'd need to buy the new shock piece, and have someone use your 'new' springs to assemble together with the new strut's from an autoparts store (the shock piece).

    I guess if you weren't going to keep the car you could risk putting the complete old shock/strut in (and hope they were okay), but then you risk having to take it all apart again. If either of the shocks go bad, you replace them in pairs, so you'll be tearing everything apart again on both sides.
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