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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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  • Its a problem that does not happen all the time but some times. It started occurring in the last couple of weeks. When I start driving a "chuck,chuck" noise is heard and as I speed up to say 20-30 mph the whole car starts shaking. I stop the car, turn off the ignition, turn on again and start driving and its fine. Sometimes it happens the second time as well and I repeat the procedure. Also there is sometimes a grinding noise when I put in drive from reverse after pulling out of the parking lot. Also I have found this happening mostly when starting and when the temperature is cold but once it happened on the highway as well. I got my suspension checked and it seems to be fine. I think it is a transmission issue and the gears are not engaging properly always. Any help as to what might be going on is greatly appreciated. Btw, it is a 2000 Toyota Camry XLE. Thank you
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I suspect you are going to need a mechanic to look at this to determine what the problem is. He's going to need to hear it, and most likely drive it.

    Part of isolating it down to the problem area, is to hear whether the problem is related directly to the speed that the tires are rotating (which also has brake rotors, CV joints, and output of transmission rotating at same speed), or at engine RPM's (internal engine, external accessories to engine, input shaft to the transmission).

    I could interpret a 'chuck, chuck' noise to be a lot of things:
    - brake pad worn down, and hitting metal to metal against high spot on rotor
    - CV joint bad, binding as it is rotating
    - valve bad in engine
    - bearing bad in engine or transmission
    - bearing bad on an belt driven accessory to the engine
    - belt frayed and slapping
    - etc

    Grinding noise could be brakes, or transmission, or ??

    Get it to a qualified mechanic, shouldn't take long to zero in on problem area.
  • Very common on 4 cyl engines that EGR valve gets gunked up with carbon deposits and starts to stick. When this happens the valve will stick open and cause a significant internal vacuum leak and will make the car quickly die as it tries to come to an idle. Usually restarting the car resets the EGR valve until it intermittently sticks again. Easy and cheap fix. Remove EGR valve which is in the intake manifold at rear of engine just behind the throtttle body. Clean the carbon out using brake cleaner and reinstall. You may need to replace the gasket between the valve and the manifold but this is a $1 item at NAPA. This will happen and will not always trigger your check engine light or throw any codes. 95% chance this is your problem.
  • ndhandndhand Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder. My check engine light recently went on. I brought it in for an emissions test and was told that I have a P0420 code for catalyst inefficiency where the rear catalytic is not working and needs replacement.

    I also had a P0456 where an evap leak was detected. The fuel filler neck is leaking and both the neck and cap need replacing.

    Anyone know if these are necessary jobs? Can I safely drive without the repairs (they're pretty costly)? Any help is much appreciated!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say the rear catalytic, are you referencing the 2nd oxygen sensor?

    You'd have a sensor in the pipe in front of the catalytic converter, and another sensor after the catalytic converter. The computer monitors both of these sensors. Based on the sensor feedback, it adjusts the engine parameters like air/fuel mixture, timing, etc to get optimal performance.

    If the computer is detecting the 2nd sensor is a problem, then we know the first sensor is working and it's able to adjust engine parameters into tolerance correctly. However, then the gas goes thru the catalytic converter and is read by the 2nd sensor. If it doesn't like the readings from the 2nd sensor, then either the sensor is bad, or the catalytic converter is bad. Sensor is the cheaper of the two, and they do go bad and need repairs.
  • I have a 05 camry xle v-6 with 25,000 miles which I bought new. Last week the check engine light came on and the car got real sick. It will idle but when you give it gas, it just won't go and there's a clunking in the transmisson.We had it towed to the dealer we bought it from and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong. The car was in there for 2 days and suddenly it started to run fine. Since they couldn't find anything wrong we took it home. 5 days later after running fine, it did it again. We'll have it towed again and hopefully they will find the problem. Has anybody out there experienced this type of problem with their camry.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    They would be able to read the error codes from the computer. Ask them what the error codes were in the computer, when the worked on it the first time.

    If you have to, you can buy an inexpensive reader and read yourself, I think I paid like 40 bucks or so at Pep Boys on sale a year or two ago.
  • The could not get the diagnostic reader to give any error codes. No codes to help with the problem. Took it home running about 25 miles and then the "check engine" light came on again and wouldn't run properly... about 2 mph!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd consider taking it to a different dealership.
  • I own a '96 Toyota Camry with only 80K miles on it. I am the original owner and have had very little trouble with my car until the last year or so. I have replaced the tires and done the brakes and replaced the battery. However, it started overheating about a year ago. I have had to replace the radiator, thernostat, water pump, and relay switch for the fan - obvious cooling system issues. It seems to be working fine now. But I need struts, probably 4 now and that will cost another $500 I would think.

    I would like to keep this car running for a few more years. What do you think about the money investment? Is a '96 Toyota Camry worth putting another $2K of work in to keep it running for another 3 years? This is not a time for me to take on a car payment. The body is not in the best shape (NYC parking!), so the resale value isn't the top. Appreciate your input.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Only you know the real condition of the car, but 80K is not a lot of miles for your vehicle, and you obviously don't put a lot on each year.

    $500 is less than 2 payments.

    If you buy something new (anything), your insurance payments would go up substantially from what you are paying now...that's probably enough savings to pay for your struts by itself.

    I think you'd probably be very hard pressed to find any vehicle in your area for $2k, that would be anywhere near as reliable as your car.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,690
    Kiawah, please check your carspace.com email for my note.

    This message has been approved.

  • kiawah, thanks for the come-back.dealership yesterday said it was my oxygen sensor gone bad. Their going to check computer to see if any damage was done to it. I'm getting a bad feeling about this. As for taking it to another dealer, there are only two in my area. So i don't have a lot of choices. I hope i get back without losing leg, they already took an arm.
  • Turn signals and hazard only work when car is started or for a short period then they come on solid. Called the dealer - they said the flasher is bad? Are they both on the same flasher component? What is the location for the replacement - one dealer says the driver side the other says to remove the glove box and it resides there. Will a parts store have the same type or could the pins be different?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, flasher could be bad, but you should also look closely at the bulb operation. Have someone work signals while you look at bulbs. Pay close attention to the intensity of the bulbs, if a filament is broke/shorting.

    Yes

    Could be the drivers side left kickpanel, but also might be behind glove compartment. Easiest way to determine, follow your ear to the clicking (when it's working).

    Would expect to find a flasher at any parts store.
  • I have a 2001 Camry and the airbag, ABS, and cruise control lights are all constantly blinking. This just started yesterday. Any ideas as to what could cause it. Could it be a fuse or something electronic?
  • I have had my car since 06/2008. It is a great little car, very little maintenance. However; I am in the little above average range in no how to work on cars. I have had a lot of experiences with other owned vehicles. My question is-where in the world is the PCV valve on my car. It is the wierdest thing I have seen yet. I have yet to be able to located it using the every day common books in autozones and such. It is definitely not located in the usual spot that I am used to? I appreciate the help. :D
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    There is no PCV valve on that car. There is a hose that goes from the crankcase to the throttle body near where the flex air intake hose attaches to the throttle body. This hose looks like a large vacuum hose and needs to be checked once in a while for blockage. Because of this system the butterfly valve will tend to carbon up and cause a sticking throttle when you try to depress accelerator, and you will need to sparingly use carb cleaner on a rag to clean the butterfly valve.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Aha! So that's why my former '97 Camry didn't appear to have a PCV valve either. Same 2.2-liter engine (or was it 2.0 liters in '90?)
  • typesixtypesix Posts: 314
    2.0 liters for all 2nd generation Camry 4 cyl.
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