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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check your other posting same subject, I just gave you a way to verify that your speed sensor is working correctly.
  • djroffdjroff Posts: 4
    It sounds like you think this Speed Sensor is the likeliest cuplrit. Thank you very much, I will check that out at my earliest opportunity!

    Just to verify, is the voltage change 0 to 1.1, or 0 to 11? It appeared that you meant 1.1V, but there was no decimal, just a space between the 1s.

    And as I read the diagrams (I've downloaded a repair manual), it looks like the Speed Sensor is located behind the speedometer. Is that correct?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I am not suggesting that the speed sensor is necessarily bad, there are a number of things that could be bad. To diagnose this problem, you need to start proving things that are working, which eliminate them from being the cause of the problem, to then keep zero'ing in on what must be bad (or you prove is bad).

    You have a cruise control computer, that takes a number of inputs (speed sensor, parking brake switch, brake switch, park/neutral switch, clutch switch, switches on the cruise control, etc). Any one of them not working correctly, could cause your cruise control to know that it shouldn't be on. If you can prove that all of the input sensors are working and eliminated as the possible cause of the problem, then you may end up with the cruise control computer itself is bad. I'd suspect any number of the sensors/switches first, though.

    Start anywhere you want with any of the switches or sensors.
  • i have a 1998 Toyota Camry and the temperature guage never moves past cold when the car is moving, once the car is stopped for a couple of minutes the gauge begins to rise to operating temperature, but once you begin to move, the gauge lowers back to cold. please help...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like the thermostat is stuck in full open position.

    It should initially be closed, prohibiting the radiator from cooling down the engine, until the engine gets up to the correct operating temperature. Then it begins to open, allowing the hot water out to the radiator to get cooled down, and some of the cooler water back into the engine, thereby keeping the engine from overheating.

    The thermostat should open only when it gets to temperature, and then only enough to keep the engine at temperature. Open too much, and engine runs cold.
  • alpha8alpha8 Posts: 3
    i have a 95 le camry that i cant figure out whats wrong. Feels like it miss fire at get up then rund fine at highspeed,car pass smog with no problems though.Ive did a complete tune up all compression is good except one is a little low but not enough to miss. Can anyone help me or tips thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    how low is it? Could you have a leaking head gasket or intake manifold gasket in that cylinder?

    How many pounds lower than the other cylinders?
  • alpha8alpha8 Posts: 3
    every one is at 140 and one of them is at 110 i sprayed carb cleaner around nothing seams to be leaking
  • blin279blin279 Posts: 21
    CD player (single disk) has failed in my 2003 Camry LE V6: does not respond to CD button, disk is inside. RADIO and TAPE work just fine. Car has 71 K miles only. Any ideas? Please advise. Thank you all! :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have it replaced - dealer or car audio speciality store.

    If you're very handy, buy a plug compatible replacement online and swap it out yourself.
  • blin279blin279 Posts: 21
    Not "very" but able to do this. I will check the price first.
  • gregbegregbe Posts: 1
    Camry has 65,000 miles on it and recently has been running through a lot of gas. The car was checked for gas leaks - no problem. Any ideas?

    Is there an adhesive I can use to fix the radio buttons, 3 of them are falling off.
  • ken_gken_g Posts: 2
    When I turn my key and try to start the engine. All the lights just fade out and the car won't start. I have to turn the key several times to get the car start.
    The battery is 3 months new. I took my car to Advance Auto parts to do the electrical check. The battery condition is good. The alternator has no problem. The starter is creaking normal. The drain is about 0.12A which shows "pass".
    The problem is still there.
    I changed all four spark plugs and the wires for spark plugs. Also, I clean the fuel injector.
    The problem is still there.
    I checked the voltage of the battery in the morning before I started my engine, and it shows 12.7. However, I still have the problem to start the engine.
    It engine will start, but I have to turn my key 3~6 times.
    What is the problem with my car?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would suspect corrosion in the battery cables, corrosion at the connector to the battery cable, or a bad starter. If your cable is bad or has corrosion, that will be a resistance. Resistance, when current goes thru that resistance, drops voltage. So you may have 12.7 at the battery, but drop a couple volts across the cable, and only deliver to the starter 10 or 11 volts.

    Hang your voltmeter on the main battery connectors to the starter, at the starter. See what voltage you actually get at the starter, when you are trying to start it.
  • aub789aub789 Posts: 19
    About 6 weeks ago, check engine light lit up on my '01 Camry that has 156,000 miles. Took to dealer, told I need a new cat converter as well as a new battery. Took car to Auto Zone (where battery was under warranty) and replaced. Magically, the check engine light never came back on. Has anyone had similar experience? Did the computer fail to re-set? Is my cat converter bad or not? BTW, I've noticed my MPG has dropped 10-15% the last few tanks, but no discernible rough engine problems. Is there any likely relationship? Thanks for any insights.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I would say keep your fingers crossed, looks like everything's okay now. The lower gas mileage could simply be due to colder weather or more city driving. Do you have emissions inspections where you live? If the cat is actually bad, then the car will likely not pass emissions.
  • aub789aub789 Posts: 19
    Thanks for the advice. I won't need to pass inspection until July. Unless the light comes back on, I'll save my $1800 for now.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Sounds like a plan. The check engine light on my '98 Frontier comes on very intermittently, and has been doing so since 2006. But it always eventually goes off. We don't have emissions tests where I live, so I haven't bothered checking it out beyond reading the diagnostic code.
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