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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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  • I assume the dash lamp warning light is on, not the "check engine light". Could be your "rear window" brake lamp, but, the "module" will react to corrosion in a lamp socket, or a difference in resistance between sides. Sometimes a new lamp on one side and an old one on the other with fool the sensor, or a lamp that is about to fail will develop a high enough resistance to trigger the fail warning. Has the car been in an accident, if so check that side for leaks which corrode a socket.
  • Older cars often develop corroded ground connections. The only way to check is either measure the resistance, (less than .1 ohms) voltage drop under load, or clean them on general principles. Corroded connections sometimes heat under load and change behavior. There are grounds from engine block to body, and battery to body and to block which need to be checked as well as the terminal ends themselves. Toyota uses good quality replaceable bolted terminals, if they have been replaced with 99 cent clamp ons, change both plus (+) and minus (-).
  • My experience is that the fans should run when the AC button is engaged, at a low speed, not just when the engine is warm. They run at a higher speed when the coolant temp switch closes. This is not a fix but might be a clue.
  • The 2,2 is a "non-interference" engine, a broken belt will not bend valves. This "mechanic" sounds like he doesn't have a clue.
  • I agree, bad grounds plague older cars. Toyota uses good battery terminals which can be replaced without changing the wires. If what is on the battery is covered in white and green grud, replace them with OEM Toyota. Check battery to block, battery to body, and block to body ground connections. Many of those body connections are to bolt headed threaded screws which just grab the sheet metal. Back them out and clean them before reinstalling. Check the terminals attached to the cable ends for corrosion. If you have an ohm meter, the resistance in these connections should be less than .1 ohms. You might also want to try clamping one end of a jumper cable to the block and the other to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery and see if cranking improves. If so, bad ground cables are indicated and should be looked it.
  • DO you have the usual hot air temp from the heater? If not, then the thermostat is bad, if so, then the sender unit for the temp guage is bad. It is easy to find the sender on a 4 cyl if that's what you have. If you look at a new OEM sender one you can find the old one. Not expensive, but I would try Rock Auto before the dealer. The thermostat requires draining the coolant to change, the sender does not (if you move quickly). (the dealer will charge you the "drain the coolant rate" to change the sender, but don't expect them to do it that way!)
  • dome light started working only when one door (RR) was open, then a different one (RF), now none. did work on "on" position of dome light switch once, before seeming to dia completely. I think bulb is good.
    Is it the integration relay?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    In this circuit, the +12 V goes thru the fuse, and then to the dome light. So the bulb always has 12 volts on it. As I'm sure you know, the switch on the dome light determines what turns it on. If you move the switch to the ON position, then you are connecting a ground wire to the other side of the bulb, which turns the bulb on.

    If you turn the switch to the SWITCHED position, then it is controlled by the integration relay. One of the inputs to the integration relay, is a wire that comes from all of the 4 door switches.

    I'd suggest you focus first on the dome light. Get a voltmeter, and verify that you have +12v (actually it would be more like 13-14 volts), on one side of the bulb. Measure with one probe of your voltmeter on metal ground somewhere like underneath the dash, and the other probe on the end of the bulb that is connected to the fuse.

    Assuming proper voltage, then verify that when you flip to the ON position, that the bulb lights. If it doesn't, then either the bulb is bad, or the grounding wire for dome lights isn't connecting real good to metal.
  • just bought this car runs great replaced alot of parts ,,, now my problem is that my rpms tend to fall too low levels when braking too quickly causing it too stall,
    mechanic told me its not airflow censer
    646 721 8900
  • any info too help solve why my toyota turn off when I'm braking I know it has something to do with the intake area of the car because if I remove one of the vaccum lines it run's better
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Posts: 140
    edited February 2010
    Check your air-duct from the intake to the Air Cleaner Filter. Squeeze the duct while the car is running. This will block air flow, and the engine will try to stall. Some of these ducts develope a small crack, and will leak more air when you do this test. This will cause the engine to stall out. This is because the air is now coming through the wide open crack and by-passing the air flow sensor inside the filter.

    Braking and then engine stalling, could be less vacuum going to the engine. The brakes have a vacuum booster. Its stores engine vacuum while the engine runs to help ease the brakes pressure required to apply the brakes. I guess this could cause the engine to stall too if defective.

    A test of booster is to start the car with the brakes applied. The pedal should move if it is working right.I think you have to push the brakes about 10 times first to bleed off the old vacuum before you start the car.
  • I have a '95 Camry that ran excellent and about 4 months ago I bought a truck, kept the Camry to drive for the mpg but ultimately I stopped driving it and it just sat in the driveway. Yesterday when I went to start it the battery was completely dead, so I first tried to charge it (battery charger read error) so I took it to Auto Zone to have them charge it. Come to find out the battery had a bad cell and was no good. I got a new battery and also went through and checked my fuses, which let me find out that the alternator fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and then attempted to start the car but it would not start. While attempting to start it, the engine is turning over but while troubleshooting became aware that there is no spark between the plug wire and distributor cap. I have traced it all the way back to the igniter but don’t want to replace it if I don’t have to because I thinking and believe it has something to do with the anti-theft system. The car has been extremely reliable and over the past 5 years I have had very minor problems (if any other than normal maintenance) with it before. Also the battery was only 2 1/2 years old and work flawlessly prior to the vehicle sitting for the 4 months. So my question really is what would cause the battery to go completely dead and get bad cylinder, while also blowing the alternator fuse? Ultimately, what do you believe or suspect the problem to be? Just an FYI, when the battery wouldn't take a charge I did attempt to jump the Camry with cables, so I think (just a guess, don't know for sure at all) that could have caused the alternator fuse to blow. The make and model of the Anti-Theft System is a Omega REC-11+ and I have the two original transmitters that came with it. Let me know if there is any additional information you need to further determine or narrow down where the problem exist. Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You may have blown either the fusible link, or the AM2 fuse. Pull the AM2 fuse, and with a voltmeter check to see if you have 13 volts on one of the legs in the socket. If no voltage there, then your fusible link is blown. If voltage there, then with an ohmmeter check out the AM2 fuse.
  • had similar problem check the gapping on the sparkplugs
  • anyone has opinion on how to troubleshot why my 95 camary stalls out when i stop sudden . has new wires, plugs,cap ,rotor, knock censer,air filter, ,a mech told me that its the master air flow sensor. another tells me that it is not HELP ME :confuse: :confuse: 6467218900
  • my uncle and i notice removing 1 vacuum raised idle,maintaining car on but shivers severely
  • could be a relay,,,,,,,,,,or module ...
    relays run in or about 35$ $45.
    module about 120$
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello to all I have a 87 Camry 2.0 manual and have the following problem. Only when the car is extremely hot (been driving it a while) and then you turn off engine then try to start it again after 2 minutes or so the car will start right up but the rpm's will drop way low to 400 sometimes lower and sound like it will cut off. The problem so far is easily fixed by giving it a lot of gas then driving the car or turning the car off and starting it again. The wired thing is it only does it intermittently not all the time and only when the car is hot and has been driven a lot.
    Things I have done to try to fix this. Taken off the EGR and try to clean it. It was so dirty I replaced with new EGR. After replacing the EGR it has only done the same problem 2 times again but not as bad as before replacement of EGR. However it still did it 2 times after replacing EGR which indicates to me there is another problem at hand here. The car also has a new radiator, starter, battery, alternator, thermostat, air filter, belts all, and a new radiator cap. Please advise and help me as to if someone out there on the forums knows what this problem is or has experienced a similar problem and what can be done to fix this problem. Thanks very much for you help.
    Dave
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Greetings. My mother, who is 84 yrs old is taking her car to have the breaks fixed. I think she has had the rotors turned once. I do not want her to be taken advantage of so I would appreciate it if someone could give me an estimate on the cost to Turn Rotors....in case they can still do it and the cost to replace the. I am talking Garage prices because I am not in area to do the work. Should I tell her to get the old parts if she has the work done? Thanks in advance.
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