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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Look in the paper in the location/geography that she is in.

    Labor and costs vary by location, but it is a very generic service that companies advertise prices all the time.
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    She lives in Ct. I do too but not there now. I just thought someone would have had their rotors replaced and could give me an estimate. Thanks
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    edited March 2010
    Okay so my Camry goes nuts from time to time. Before, when I had my ignition on "ON" (before starting the car) the two cooling fans used to run. Then I started the car and continued which does not make sense because i thought they don't start running until it gets hot. But my car was kept cool and I didn't have any overheating problems so i let it be. Then after 2 months, it didn't work at all, then it worked again :confuse: (i know its crazy right?) But then I had a minor puncture on a hose which distributes coolant to the engine. if I remember correctly, its a big hose on one end it connected to the radiator cap which says do not open when hot and the other end is connected to the engine. Since the hose was punctured all the pressure thats supposed to remain inside was blowing out and evaporating into steam that reeked of coolant. Now, my fan was not working anymore at all even though my engine temperature went all the way into the red. So I quickly went to the shop and got that hose replaced (not a big deal). Told the mech about my fan and he said it was some sensor defect. He did something and then it worked again for another week then again it stopped working. :mad:

    So I have the risk of overheating my engine on hot days as summer comes closer even thought coolant is being transfered in to the engine to cool it, the fan isnt working what should I do?

    And one more thing, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel recently stopped working. it stays at cold all the time now and doesn't go up at all even though the engines hot. Now i have an even bigger problem because I cant tell when my engine is starting to overheat :mad:
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    Okay so my Camry goes nuts from time to time. Before, when I had my ignition on "ON" (before starting the car) the two cooling fans used to run. Then I started the car and continued which does not make sense because i thought My car was kept cool and I didn't have any overheating problems so i let it be. Then after 2 months, it didn't work at all, then it worked again :confuse: (i know its crazy right?) But then I had a minor puncture on a hose which distributes coolant to the engine. if I remember correctly, its a big hose on one end it connected to the radiator cap which says do not open when hot and the other end is connected to the engine. Since the hose was punctured all the pressure thats supposed to remain inside was blowing out and evaporating into steam that reeked of coolant. Now, my fan was not working anymore at all even though my engine temperature went all the way into the red. So I quickly went to the shop and got that hose replaced (not a big deal). Told the mech about my fan and he said it was some sensor defect. He did something and then it worked again for another week then again it stopped working. :mad:

    So I have the risk of overheating my engine on hot days as summer comes closer even thought coolant is being transfered in to the engine to cool it, the fan isnt working what should I do?

    And one more thing, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel recently stopped working. it stays at cold all the time now and doesn't go up at all even though the engines hot. Now i have an even bigger problem because I cant tell when my engine is starting to overheat :mad:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    This is fairly easy for a competent garage to fix. There are basically 3 sets of components this all work.

    There are two coolant sensors that sense the temperature of the coolant water in the engine, and send that information to the car computer. The computer sends the info to the gauge, so the gauge can tell you what the engine temperature is. The computer also controls the fan circuitry, and also includes as an input infromation from the air conditioner freon pressure.

    Based upon the engine temperature and the A/C needs, the computer will turn on a series of 3 relays. Those relays are what supply power to the two fan motors, and allow them to be off, low speed, or high speed.

    There are a couple diagnostic approaches to determine what is wrong. In your case, because your gauge is not working, one would suspect one of the temperature coolant sensors. You can take the sensor out, put it in a pan of water, start heating the water, and measure the resistance of the terminals with a meter. Or you can just replace them.

    Another diagnostic approach is to take the relays out, and again with an ohmeter measure the resistance of the secondary relay points, in both scenarios when the primary is engergized, and also when it is at rest. The technician needs to know how the relay is wired internally, to be able to check whether they are okay or not.

    One can also unplug the fan motors, and supply battery voltage directly to the fans, and see if the electric motors are fine and spin when given power. Sometimes fan motors bind up and won't spin. Since 'both' of yours aren't working, I suspect the problem is something other than the fans, like the sensors or the relays.

    I should also mention that there are three fuses supplying power to the circuitry, the 15A ECU-G, the 30A RDI fan, and the 30A CDS fan.

    So a competent garage can determine whether your problem is part of the sensors and control circuitry, the power circuitry of the fuses and relays, or the fans themselves. With the symptoms as you indicate, I would initially suspect the sensors....but, you might have another problem as well.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    already answered this on your other post..........
  • shahgtrshahgtr Posts: 5
    First of all, thank you so much! Your reply was clear, concise and it flowed well.

    You're right I don't think its the fan motors either. So basically the key problem areas could be either the temperature coolant sensor or the relays or both right? Do you have any idea on how much they would cost to replace or fix? And where are these actually located on the engine?

    Once again I appreciate your help.
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed with 169k on it. The car has a check engine light that comes on after a few minutes of driving it seems to be on a timer as it comes on after a couple of minutes not right away. I need some help here as this is a older car. What makes/triggers the check engine light to come on in a 87 Camry and what can I do to find out what is the problem? Also I might add I saw a diagnosis plug near the battery under the hood I was wondering where can I get a device that will plug in there and let me know what the light means? I guess I should 1st ask do they make a device like that for such a older diagnosis system on that car?
    Also is there a code system on that car like on my Honda where I can find out what that engine light means? Thanks so much for the help as I have no clue what to do 1st here or how to find out what is going on.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello there,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and have a question on what kind of throttle body cleaner to use to clean the throttle body? I ask this because the car is so old and there are many kinds i.e. Deep creek sea foam, throttle body cleaner, and many others. Please advise me on the best one to use as I am afraid of using a brand/kind that might damage the IAC unit. Thanks for your help in this matter.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and the rear of the car is sagging down quite low. I have replaced the shocks they are new and working fine. I am thinking the problem here is the coil springs are sagging down low with the age of the car and perhaps this is a problem with this car please advise me with this question? I would like to know why/what is causing this and how to fix the problem. If indeed it is the coil springs then please advise me if its worth the effort and money of changing out and putting new coil springs on the car it has 170k on it. I think that it would be quite risky to change the coil springs in my car due to age, rust, rust on bolts back there, and taking apart so much of the car in the rear. Again I don't know that is why I am here asking so please advise me here as I am sure there is others on here who have had the same problem with the back of the car sagging low. Thanks for your help in advising me here as to what the problem is and what to do to fix the problem.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Hello,
    I have a 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed and had a problem with the taillights not coming on when the lights are turned on. The symptom of the problem is as follows. When the lights are turned on one of the taillights will not light up and the warning light comes on in the instrument panel to let you know. However the taillights do come on when you hit the brake pedal. I fixed the problem by running a ground wire from somewhere on the frame to the taillight apparatus in the back of the taillight. Both taillights when out 1 at a time though and I fixed both by doing the same thing running a ground to the taillight that was not working and was out.

    My question is this to everyone what caused the problem in the 1st place and did I fix it properly? I ask this because when I was reading the forums it said somewhere that there is a relay for the taillights located in the rear of the car somewhere did not say where though. So my thinking here is perhaps a relay in the trunk somewhere went bad causing the problem of the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on and I did not fix the problem correctly. Can someone please advise me as to what is the proper fix and the cause of this problem with the taillights not coming on when the headlights are turned on? Thanks for you help in this matter as I am sure someone on here has gone through this problem and must know the correct answer please advise.
    Dave
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited March 2010
    It would be no more difficult, than replacing the strut, assuming they make the part.

    Normally when you replace a strut, they are replacing the inside piece that looks like a shock absorber.

    They pull out the whole strut assembly (integrated spring and shock), take it apart (take the spring off the shock piece), put the new shock piece inside the old spring and tension it, and then put the whole assembly back in the vehicle. Note: whenever you take any of the suspension pieces out, you would also then re-align the vehicle to make sure it tracks straight down the road and doesn't have abnormal tire wear.

    Call your local parts store and/or look online, and see if they sell the complete strut assembly with spring for your year, make, model vehicle. If they do, the labor repair would be easier than a normal strut change (as they would be just swapping out the whole assembly). The part would cost more because you are also buying the spring, but the labor to repair is slightly easier. Whether the parts store is stocking these parts (or perhaps they could order for you) for a 23 year old vehicle, only they could tell you.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have the specifics of your vehicle taillight assembly, but I am assuming that it is a dual filament bulb, as most vehicles.

    This means there are two separate electrical circuits that go back to the bulb, and the bulb (if you look closely) has two filaments inside of it.

    One circuit is dim when that powered, and is the tail light circuit that comes on when you turn the lights on. That circuit has a relay you reference.

    The other circuit is bright when powered, and is the brake light. When you put on the brake there is a switch up under the dash that then supplies power to that circuit.

    Usually when people have light problems, either the bulb is bad (filament broken, or bent over and touching the other filament), or the bulb has some corrosion/crud in the socket and it's not making a good electrical connection, or more rarely the bulb assembly is getting corrosion and not making a good ground to the metal of the quarter panel.

    I would suggest you buy two new replacement bulbs (look up the correct bulb replacement in your owners manual in case someone has put in a wrong bulb in the past), with some sandpaper clean out the inside of the socket - sides and contact points at the bottom so it's nice and clean), and then put the bulb in and look closely at the filaments while someone turns on the lights and/or applies the brakes.

    You should notice with a dual filament bulb, that the pins on the side of the bulb should mount only one way in the socket, so that the correct filament (dim or bright), is lit. One pin is further down on the side than the other pin, and it should fit into the side of the socket that has the groove further down.
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Thanks for all that info I appreciate it very much. I will have to see if they sell that as one piece thanks again.
    Dave
  • hardyrxphardyrxp Posts: 20
    Thanks very much for all that info I concur with you on what to do. I think the problem is a faulty ground somewhere as the car has a lot of rust in the rear of the car. Thanks again for your help.
    Dave
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