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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The second one probably broke, because the first bolt had broken and that is too much pressure for one bolt to hold with a twisting motion. Why the first one broke, who knows. Could be that whoever tightened it originally (or repaired it at some point), overtightened the bolt and broke it off. Could have had some sort of defect in the bolt manufacturing process I guess as well.

    That's a very steep charge, to replace a normal defective tensioner. I'm suspecting, that they may be charging a premium, if it will be hard for them to get the remaining bolt stubs out of the engine. Without seeing whats left of the broken bolts and trying to get them out, it's hard to say that the $$'s is reasonable or not.

    Call an auto parts store and ask for the cost of the part, and then ask what their charge would be to install the tensioner for you. That would give you an idea of the 'normal' cheap price. Another dealership than where you took it, could also give you a similar competitive quote over the phone. The broken bolts does add a considerable additional labor risk and wildcard....that could vary the real cost considerably.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bubba,

    Send your email address to me at kiawah@carspace.com
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, I take full credit for that statement. What of it?

    Edmunds didn't have to do as I wished, but any objective reader of the last several pages of posts will see that there was nothing of substance being discussed, just a lot of sniping. No different from other topics that Edmunds has closed for the same reasons -- pointless argumentation and name calling..
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    sent email appreciate any help
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Hmmmm....didn't get it.

    Do you know how to retrieve mail from your edmunds mailbox? bubba38@carspace.com?

    Go to "My CarSpace" in the green toolbar upper left.
    Then in a grey outlined box off to the right, there is a "Mailbox" tab.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    yeah i found email here thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Okay...sent you what you need....let me know that you were able to open it okay.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    didnt come thru yet
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I think I figured out the problem, it's 18 meg. I can't even upload it to my geocities website. Have to think about how I can get this to you.

    Edit....I may have found a way. Found a free online disk space, it's uploading to it now, and I think it will send you a link to your bubba38 email address with a link. Should take another 6 minutes to upload.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    Im at tdc, found mark on cam thanks to mirror, still wont fire, cranked a little, didnt want to flood cyl with fuel
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You should have gotten an email with a link, that when you download will get you a file which has pictures and instructions. Did you get it at bubba38@carspace.com?

    There are matchmarks on the new belt to match with the camshaft pulley.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    still didnt come thru, @ undefined. matchmarks?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You really need to see the pictures. There is a line on the flat surface of the belt which has to align with one mark, and two marks on the front edge of the belt which has to align with the camshaft pulley marks, and then some checks that have to be done.

    You need to get this file somehow.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    brihh17 only see 1 mark on new belt yahoo
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    uploading again, and sending url link to yahoo. Done uploading. Check your yahoo mail.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    downloading now thanks looks like reading material for days thanks alot
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Since your belt broke, your crankshaft (which turns twice for every piston sparkplug firing), could be 360degrees out of sync. When the piston is at TDC, one time the valves should be closed and the sparkplug firing. After 360 degrees of the crank and the next time the piston is at TDC, the exhaust valve should be closing and the intake valve opening.

    There are instructions as to how to make sure you are starting with the crank and camshaft in the proper positions. Then the marks on the belt are used to make sure the camshaft is exactly on the right tooth of the belt.
  • Broken tensioner bolt

    Your repair is more expensive than the part.I know junk yards here that have a bunch of these and would charge $10.00 for a tensioner and bolts. A self serve used Auto parts yard or a "you pull'em" yard.

    The hard part is geting any broken parts off your car. If your handi you could give it a try. A good Auto Parts will have a stud remover tool or at Sears.
  • De sludge an engine

    If its burning oil on start up it could be a problem on the top side of the engine. Some of the oil gets past a seal and flows past the valve while sitting overnight. The valve seals are not hard to get replaced versus an engine overhaul.

    De sludging I dont think is gonna stop the burning of oil. I bought a car from auction that had a lot of sludge in the engine. It lasted at least 10 years then the #1 or 2 connecting rod bearing spun . This is from oil starvation I immediately shut the engine off and then replaced it with a new bearing. The engine knocked slightly for awhile but then over time got more quiet and eventually stopped knocking. It ran great for about three more years until I sold it for $800.

    I never desludged it.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    i got it going there is 2 marks on cam one towards the front of car(wrong) one towards top of engine (correct) no marks on new belt matchmarks refer to putting old belt back on. Any secrets to burping the cooling system?
  • Ive been reading your timing marks problem.

    I have the manual but I cant get a download on this forum. So here goes the narrative.

    Id ignore the two marks on the back of the cam gears as mention in previous post. That is for cam replacement.

    There's a small hole on the front cam timing belt gear. Line this hole up with a mark visible through the hole That is when the cams are TDC. A hint the mark is at the 12 o'clock position if your looking straight at the timing cam gear.

    Next turn pistons over till the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Your done!

    Its easier to remove all plugs and spin engine over by hand. I also slide the crank pulley on to do this. You have to slid it back off to put the timing belt covers on when finished putting belt on. You could put the cover on to to use the TDC mark that is on this cover and align it to the crank pulley. But I dont, I just put a PLASTIC STRAW in the #1 cylinder and watch it come up as I turn engine over by hand. When it stop going up its at TDC.

    Your working on a 5S-FE? A 2.2 liter?

    Keep all slack out of the right side of belt when installing timing belt on water pump gear and cam gear. Another trick is to purposely set the crank gear off one tooth backwards, this will give you some slack to get the belt on. Then turn crank one tooth forward to TDC it should tighten the belt enough before the cam gear moves off of TDC.
  • Burbing cooling system.

    The best way is to put the coolant in real slow making sure the electric fans come on before you slam the hood shut and test drive. The temp gauge should be normal. Keep adding fluid as it warms up, it usually takes 5-7min to open the thermostat.

    The problem comes from the air trapped in the lower hose of radiator. The thermostat does not open and let the water enter the engine. The hot coolant temps are not hitting the thermostat, only the air is. The coolant wont circulate. It will just boil over and out the fill hole on the top of the engine.
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    I got it going runs good
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent.....congrats!
  • jodi4jodi4 Posts: 2
    Sincere thanks to kiawah & rearwheeldrive for the input on my post regarding the Toyota Camry. I halfway understand the repair cost since the engine sits sideways and had to be lifted. It's just sad when you go to buy a car and are told that if you purchase the extended warranty, ($1,800 I might add) you will then have "bumper to bumper" coverage. Naturally the first thing to break is not covered. Kinda makes a person feel "taken" if you know what I mean.
    Anyway, here's the update. I haven't had my car for 9 days now. Apparently, new problems came up. First they found a "leaky water pump" after 5 days, then 2 days later, they added a "bad alternator" to the list. Just can't imagine what the total will be, IF I ever get my car back.
    Still, all I want to know is what would cause the bolts to break? I bought this car used in October 2007. It is driven to & from work 4 days a week and a trip or 2 out for groceries. It is not driver over the speed limit, on bad roads or abused in any manor. Did I get a "lemon"? If I did, it's too late now. Does anyone know if Toyota has a web site for questions? Like I said, I just need to know "Why it broke".
    Again, Thank you for any information anyone can shine on this subject. jodi4
  • It might be extreme but I would find out who has touched the engine for belt repairs or such and go after them .

    Those things like water pump and alternator must be removed anyways to get to the broken bolts. And your battery wasnt dead when you broke down in the middle of the street was it?

    The warranty wont cover negligent repairs, someone probably tightened the steering pump bolts to tight or left them loose..Ask for the broken bolts back.and start from there.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    I have a 01 Toyota Camry w/115000 miles and the A/C and Heater fan switch used for the speed only works on the 2 high speeds[there r 4 speeds] the A/C works fine. When I put on the A/C fan on the 2 lower speeds, the A/C compressor goes on but nothing blows out of the vents. When u put it on the two higher speeds, the A/C blows out of the vents. Any suggestions.....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    check the resistor bank in the air plenum.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    Where is it located and is it called the blower motor resistor or is it the same thing u r talking bout[resistor bank]?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Thats it, it's in the air plenum where the blower motor is.
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