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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

1568101124

Comments

  • tmoney4tmoney4 Posts: 8
    Thanks again for the info. I replaced the resistor and it works fine!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Excellent, congrats......great job!
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    ended up doing some other work on the camry while i pondered the start problem.changed tappet cover gasket,fitted timing belt kit,and fitted new alt,p,steer belts so sorry for the delay for anyone that was waiting for an outcome to my problem.probably spent 7-8 days on testing relays and sensors via a manual that i also purchased,at the end of the day i think the ecm or an open circuit wire was the problem, the latter being my pick.i ended up fitting a relay to power up the fuel pump which i could not get to run,power the pump and the car would run perfectly.so i just powered a relay via the ignition fuse and run another wire to the pump.the car runs fine. at the end of the day i just didnt want spend any more time or money, plus i wanted to get it out of my shed .no doubt about it they are definitely a great little car but i suppose all things play up now and then and i cant say i didnt learn anything,, patience being one thing , chow regards rod
  • I have a 1996 Toyota Camry. When I have my car in park it idols too high. When it is in gear it idols too low. What could the problem be?? The needle that points to the rpm's fluctuates up and down. I have tried to fix the idoling, but it doesn't work. I have replaced the throttle posistion sensor but it still hasn't fixed the problem.Do you know what the problem could be?? Please help..
  • It seems like a air induction problem .

    I would check the duct going into the engine from air filter. Small leaks can throw off mixture settings. They crack and can be found by squeezing the duct while its running.

    Dropping down to low is an indication of a vacumm leak too. The size of the leak would be large though, like the hose that goes to the PCV system. The air leaking into this line will cause it to run fast in park. Then when its in gear the added load of the gears and the too lean mixture will cause it to run at a low idle.

    I think the 1996 has a PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) at the end of the valve cover on the back of the engine on a V6. On the 4 cylinder it is somewhere on the valve cover too.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    are your filters ok ,,is your air filter clean,has your fuel filter been replaced lately,and your spark plugs ,what condition are they in,start there and see how you go ?
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    just wondering if you saw my update on my camry 95 winds but wont start problem,if not read post 220
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    yes, saw it
  • Thanks for the reply. I did have a vacuum leak but it was fixed. The throttle position sensor was replaced with a brand new one. Still having the problem though. My husband said air induction is fine. There's no leakage now. There's also a new map sensor. We've tried adjusting the idle, can't get it to idle correctly. Like I said before, when it's in park it idlesabout 1100, but the needle fluctuates. And when it's in gear it goes down to between 600 to 800. Any new ideas?? Thanks again..
  • My car is a 1996 2.2 4 cylinder. Isn't it a front wheel drive??
  • If your car is leaking you might need a new radiator. My 1996 toyota camry had a leak so I knew it was the radiator. There could be a small leak in the radiator, one so small you can only see a little leak on the ground. There could be a crack in the radiator. Check that, hopefully that will fix your problem.
  • High Idle

    You replaced the throttle switch and fixed vacuum leak.. And the duct has no cracks. That's good.

    What is the throttle switch getting in regards to voltage? A small continuity tester will verify it is getting something. Id also disconnect the oxygen sensor connector and run the car at 2000 RPM for a couple minutes. It could have an effect on idle speed too.
  • rod20rod20 Posts: 14
    the only other suggestion i have would be is to go and buy a manual ,i did ,they cost about 60-80 bucks from auto-pro and work your way through it at least that way you have the specifications as in voltages ect for all your sensors are in black and white and there in front of you .it also has a section for trouble shooting in it,as well as all the know how on how to test each sensor ect.
  • I just had the exact same thing happen to me! I have a 1999 toyota camry 4 cyl. with only 101,000 miles. I have kept up the maintenance and had no warning lights. It does not help not to be alone but I have found another website that said this is nothing new. I have a 1993 camry with 200,000 miles on it so I guess it was just the luck of a bad draw. I do not know how I will replace the engine but it is too good of a car(shell) to just let go.

    Best of luck to you too!
  • Brief history: Took car in for routine oil change; was told it would be a good time to rotate tires. When I got car back, wheels made horrible rumbling sound. Turned out that they mis-rotated my DIRECTIONAL tires! Supposedly got all of that resolved by putting on new tires & wheel alignment.

    Now another noise since I picked it up from repair place: clunking (popping) sound on cold start when I mildly apply brakes.
    After the first braking, I can drive and stop and it never is heard again... until I turn off the car and start it again.
    Car is only under warrantly next week. Help!!! Note: The repair folks are not Toyoto dealership -- just a more convenient dealership nearby. Thank you very much. J.
  • The brake lights do not come on. I think a few days ago, 1 light was not coming on; now it is both. The central brake indicator on the back window does come on, and the light comes on dimly when the headlights are switched on.

    I am presuming because the lights come on with the headlights that it is not the bulbs. I am thinking it might be a fuse. How can I check this pls?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The fact that your high mounted stop light comes on, indicates that your fuse is okay, as well as the stop light switch on your brake pedal is okay. Check your bulbs, that is the most likely problem.
  • Thanks -- forgive my ignorance, but I thought the bulbs would be ok since the lights come on (dimmer than brake lights) when the headlights are put on. Or is that actually a different bulb in the same vicinity?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The bulb will have two filaments in it, a high output used for the brake, and a low output used for driving light. The brake filament is usually the first to burn out, since it is much hotter.

    Take the bulb out, and look closely at the filament, you'll most likely find one broken.

    Pay particular attention to the way the bulb goes into the socket, it matters which way it goes in.....you don't want to get it turned 180 degrees. You'll notice two nibs on the side brass of the bulb base, one is closer to the end than the other, and if you look at the socket you'll see that one of the nib slots is deeper than the other.
  • I recently bought a 2002 Camry to replace my totaled 2004 Corolla. At a steady 60 it seems to be turning about 2100 rpms. When I let off the gas the rpm's drop to about 17-1800 if I touch the gas at all it jumps back to 2100. Is this normal? I have averaged about 28mpg on my first 2 tanks.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes this is normal. Do you have the 4-cylinder or V6? Your mileage is good for mixed driving with a 4-cylinder, excellent for the V6.
  • I have a 4 cylinder. I am thinking about getting a scanguage to see if I can get the mileage up a little more.
  • The engine on our 2000 Toyota Camry was blown due to a goof on a routine oil change. Originally we wanted the insurance company to replace the engine, but they wanted to total out our vehicle. They said that if they replace the engine, we would be issued a salvage title on our car. Now, we are receptive to taking the settlement, and we want to just buy a new Camry. The catch is that insurance was basing the "total loss" on the blue book value rather than the retail / replacement value plus tax of our car. Now that we want to settle, can insurance renig on their offer to total the vehicle, since we want the fair replacement value? If they replace the engine, can this have any effect on other parts of the car that supply the engine? Any advice or strategies in dealing with this situation? Thanks, Dawn
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,187
    I can't picture how insurance would cover an engine damaged by an oil change error. Can you explain to me how this is is working?

    I think back to someone with an earlier post. They wanted the car but the insurance company wanted to total it. So the insurance company sold them the car along with the settlement. The people got to keep their car.
  • The mechanic put on the wrond oil filter. When my husband drove away, the filter immediately came off, all the oil drained, and the engine was blown. The garage is liable for this, because it was their error! There insurance has dragged their feet concerning the claim. We are looking at either a new engine or "total loss". Suggestions or ideas???
  • I have a 2002 model 4-cyl Toyota Camry XLE in near perfect condition. Most reliable car I've ever had. I really like the vehicle.
    It only intermittently, usually on initial startup, makes a clunk sound and it's hard to tell if it is from the front passenger area near the wheel or perhaps more under the center of the car.
    I left it at a Toyoto dealership repair place for three days so they could test drive it, let it set for a while, and repeat the process. They checked it over and can't find anything and say it's safe to drive.
    Anyone heard of something similar -- or have an idea what this MIGHT be?
    Have new tires. Have new rear brakes.
  • Seems like it should be like you were in an accident. They should pay replacement cost. Find some similar cars to yours for sale locally and show the insurance company. When I totaled my car they even paid sales tax! The pay out is negotiable. I would think they should be covering a rental car until you get a new car.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Do you have antilock brakes? (I'd assume you do since your Camry is an XLE.) The ABS system performs a self-test just after startup, and it makes a "mechanical" noise. See your owner's manual. The location of the noise would be in the engine compartment, toward the front passenger side.

    I've personally never heard it in any of my previous or current Camrys, but my '90 Sable with ABS made that sound.
  • I have a toyota camry with 149K miles on it. I recently bought this car and have limited knowledge about it. Now when i keep the key in the ON position (just before cranking the engine) the following lights on the dashboard light up and stay

    1. battery light
    2. Low Oil Pressure Warning Light
    3. Check engine light.

    The ABS light is on for a few seconds and then goes off.

    Now when I crank the engine only the check engine light is still on and the other two lights are off. Does this indicate problem with the oil pressure and battery? Also since the engine check light is on.. what is the likely reason for it?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Since you haven't started the engine, the low oil pressure and battery lights are normal.

    You will need to find out why your check engine light is on. Go to an autoparts chain and have them read the error numbers from the computer for you. They'll normally do this free of charge.

    Take those error codes, and write them down. You'll then search the internet with your model/make/yr, and let's see what the error messages are.
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