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Older Camry Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Your 1993 Camry overheat.

    I think you got the water in okay. Well you said you took out the thermostat so it should not overheat unless the pumps got a small leak. Its way over on the left side as your looking at the engine. I think its under those black covers and makes it hard to detect leaks. I usally get on the ground and look up at the belt pullelys, for any corroded water trails. The water usually evaporates before you discover it. When my wife gets home Ill look at ours, it its a V6.

    Abused cars with clogged radiators will over heat on freeways but if yours is heating up at idle it sounds like the relay fans. A simple paper clip across the relay connector will make the fan come on, either hot or cold. Remove the relay and then jump the two farthest terminals on the wire bundle side or allthe terminals until the fan comes on. I have a cheap test light I usually jump across the live terminal to the other terminal with a paper clip hooked on the alligator clip end of this tester. A single clip and no tester gets hot in your hand from the current draw.

    The relay is always on the outside of car in the engine compartment.

    Ill make this topic watched on MySpace page. Let me know how far you get.
  • Looking at water pump for V-6 Camry 1993

    Its hard to pick up leak without removing black covers. A short cut to test for this leak is find a shop that does alot of radiator repairs they might have a pressure testor. It takes 2 min to remove the cap and put this tester on. It should hold pressure for at least 15 minutes.
  • Hey everyone~
    I know, I know....I posted a message about purchasing the '95...and yes, I did buy it. I love it so far, but I have a (hopefully) small problem.
    I had a '96 neon 5 spd (awww, it was my first stick, such wonderful memories:0) ) and I was told it was supposed to idle either at 1,000rpm or just a hair above that. So I guess I made that into my own rule of thumb since then.
    This '95 camry (I just noticed today) seems to idle below that, say around 800 (alright, if you were to look at the tach. it would be right smack between "0" and "1"). When the air runs, it idles higher, which seems to help ease the vibrating I get when it sits at a light with no air on. The arrow bobs up and down slightly as I sit at a light but never fully reaches the "1". It doesn't seem serious, but it's enough to bother me....any idea's and how I might fix it? Is it lack of power from something like the battery or....? Thanks for your help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Thats fine.....600, 700, 800 .... 1K or greater when you first start it and it's cold.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Yep, fine 6-800 when warm, no AC.
  • duane54duane54 Posts: 2
    Heater fan switch only runs on high, replaced with a used switch but did not help. 2001 camary
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check the Blower Resistor, it's undoubtedly open.

    It's in the plenum near the squirrel cage blower motor. Blower resistor has 2 screws holding it in. Up underneath the dash behind the glove compartment.
  • toms44toms44 Posts: 2
    AT, "R", indicator light on instrument panel, of '94 Toyota Camry with 4-cyl eng, does not illuminate when engine/transmission is, "Cold". However, when engine has reached operating temp. and has been driven a few miles, the, "R", position lite illuminates on instrument panel. Any ideas as to fix the problem so the transmission position light will show that the trans. is in reverse when engine is cold? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Probably the bulb, but I'd check the switch since it's easiest to get to.

    If lamps don't work, it calls out (in likely order)
    - bulb
    - combination meter (dash) wiring
    - park/neutral switch

    If one bulb out of the sequence is the problem, then it calls out:
    - bulb
    - combo meter wiring
  • toms44toms44 Posts: 2
    Thanks Kiawah. I think the problem is a switch, however, you mentioned.. "It is the easiest to get at". The car in question belongs to my uncle living outside the state I reside. He isn't car smart but, a little knowledge will help when explaining to a Service Manager at a Toyota dealership. :)
  • camper4camper4 Posts: 2
    I bought a 2000 Camry XLE V6 a year ago. Two months ago it began smoking on start-up. I've had it checked by the dealer and by an independent shop, both of whom say the engine is badly sludged and will need to be replaced at a cost of $6,000-plus--which is the car's resale value. The factory has refused any assistance. In researching this, it seems that sludging has been a major problem with these cars, and the cost of repairs is extremely high.

    I hate the thought of selling this dog to someone else without telling them the score. Should I fix it or sell it for parts, or what?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,713
    There was a large sludge discussion for Toyotas on Edmunds, but a few people got it closed saying there was no sludge...

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea225d/5533

    You might write the hosts and get it reopened.

    Didn't Toyota have a recall about their sludge after a long time saying it was not a problem?

    This message has been approved.

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Yes, there was a sludge problem on some Toyotas, including the '00 Camry. But that forum wasn't closed because "a few people" said there was no such thing, It was closed by Edmunds, after the hosts agreed that nothing new was being said, just a lot of mudslinging (sludge slinging?)

    Yes there was a recall and it was good for 8 years and unlimited miles if you had some proof of past oil changes.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,713
    >both of whom say the engine is badly sludged and will need to be replaced at a cost of $6,000-plus--which is the car's resale value. The factory has refused any assistance. In researching this, it seems that sludging has been a major problem with these cars, and the cost of repairs is extremely high.

    Sounds like the request may have been within the 8 years time frame the poster above says they finally allowed in their settlement over sludge at Toyota. I'd keep trying. Another dealer?

    This message has been approved.

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,713
    >It was closed by Edmunds,

    After encouragement to close it from at least one poster

    Closed discussion link

    "C'mon Steve, make my day! Let's see the glorious words "read only." "

    This message has been approved.

  • jodi4jodi4 Posts: 2
    RE: 2003 Toyota Camry Sedan - 4 Cyl Automatic

    Hi, was wondering if anyone could tell me why my tensioner mounting bolts broke in half. From the looks of the bolts, one must have broke some time ago because it was greasy and somewhat chewed up. The other just happened about a week & a half ago. As I backed partway out of the driveway all a sudden the power steering was gone. I immediately pulled straight back in so I could check to see if I couold figure out what had happen. I saw the drivebelt was missing. Looking underneath the car I saw it hanging down and craweled under to retreive it. As I did so, I alsosaw a "chunk" of metal that looked out of place. I touched it only to have it fall into my hand. After it was towed in for service I was told it was the drivebelt tensioner. To shorten the story, I was also told my "excellent" extended coverage did not cover the part. Estimated job would be about $1250.00. I would just like to know if anyone knows why this would happened. Thank you. dlm
  • bubba38bubba38 Posts: 21
    water pump seized broke belt engine turned after where are timing marks and what do they line up with
  • camper4camper4 Posts: 2
    Rather than replace the engine in my 2000 Camry for $6,000, which two shops have told me to do (and no, there will be no financial help from the factory) I wonder if I stand any chance of fixing the problem by simply flushing the oil with solvent. Two car hobbyists I know tell me that may work; of course, the dealer's service manager tells me I run the risk of clogging the oil pan intake and seizing the engine, and flushing is unlikely to work well anyhow.

    Anyone have any experience with flushing sludge?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If flushing sludge would have worked, Toyota would have used it to repair all of the engine repairs that they covered.
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