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Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • twtebrdtwtebrd Posts: 1
    Hi there, I am so glad that I found this website as we just bought a new used 2011 Mazda6 in Oct/ Nov and I am finding all kinds of things in here about Mazda 6s engines. Yesterday my husband ran over what he thought was a metal object and it blew out his back tire. It was dark,after changing the tire he checked under the car and everything seemed fine so re drove on his merry way. He said it sounded funny but no sensor or indicator lights on the dash panel were lit up so he kept driving it and a couple hours later it just died. When he was talking to the tow truck driver about it he said he smelled something sweet when they were loading it up. My husband asked him about the warning lights and the guy said none would go come on because it wouldnt register it. This makes no sense to me as I am almost certain that at least one or more indicator lights should have gone off to alert there was a problem right when the engine knew it was low on fluids. I remembered my husband telling me that a chp was behind him and when he was changing the tire he pulled up and said I found what you ran over and removed it from the freeway. Hubby just saw a flash of something that appeared metal by that time it was already under the car. I called up the chp yesterday afternoon and tracked down the chp files for it and found out what it was he ran over, a steel bumper that had fallen off someones vehicle. This is so horrible and could have been prevented had warning lights gone on like they are suppose to. We are just very grateful that he is ok because it was dark, and he was going on the freeway in the fast lane and had his front tire gotten it it would have been way worse. Now the dealership said it needs a new engine and radiator and I am praying they dont total loss it. I was hoping you could let me know why the indicator lights dont work in that situation and also how much we are looking at cost wise for a new engine from a dealership. It is the 4cyl 4 door with dual exhaust. We have full coverage insurance and also under warranty still with an extended warranty and gap insurance. I would greatly appreciate your comments to this. Thank you so much,
  • Since your husband hit something in the highway IMHO this would not be covered under warrenty but insurance. I have no answer for your warning light question. The dealer/mechanic would have to provide that answer. Your insurance would let you know if this is a covered item.
  • aim9xaim9x Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
    I bought a 2004 Mazda6 3.0L new in Feb. 2004. My car has over 135,000 miles on it, and it
    still has the original engine. I have always changed the oil with a high quality, full synthetic oil, about every 3,000-4,500 miles. While I agree that, with full synthetic
    oils, you can wait a little bit longer, I always want clean oil. It baffles me that individuals are experiencing problems with their 3.0L engines.

    And I live in the Mojave desert, folks (I work at NASA). This is a windy, hot, dusty part of the country.

    1. Make sure you are using 5W-20, and do NOT use any other weight. Engineers chose this viscosity based on multiple factors (expected operating temperatures, engine block material selection, and, most importantly, crankshaft journal minimum oil film thickness). I have personally seen 3.0L engines last for over 200,000 miles when changed with nothing but full synthetic oils.

    2. Read the Owner's Manual. It contains lots of important information that is easily missed if you "just throw it aside." Read the manual before listening to anyone tell you about when you need to service a particular part. If you go to a Jiffy Lube (or anywhere, for that matter) and are told that the "manufacturer recommends [insert nonsense here]" you will know the truth if you have read the manual. These guys are usually just trying to make an extra buck.

    3. If your car already had DexCool in it, stick with it. The anti-corrosive additives it contains
    helps, especially for all-aluminum engines. If you want to use the green antifreeze and you were using DexCool, just make sure you completely flush out the cooling system before replacing it. Never mix DexCool with standard (green) antifreeze unless it is Prestone's extended life coolant, which is also green, but can mix with any coolant.

    4. Don't hot-rod your Mazda. They aren't designed to be race cars; they are designed for ordinary wheeled transportation. If you rev the engine and run it like a bat out of hell, you can expect a shorter engine life. If I were to design a race car engine, I would design the engine to have a dry sump lubrication system that could handle just about any orientation and acceleration. I would also choose much stronger materials for the hard working parts of the engine, and I would probably NOT implement an overhead cam design.

    5. If you hear knocking, that is probably detonation. Make sure you are not using fuel that contains more than 10% ethanol (again, this is in the manual). Stick with the fuel in the manual. Do NOT use E-85. In fact, I would stay away from any ethanol-based fuel. I just put in regular ol' 87, and it has worked without fail. When changing spark plugs, use the iridium plugs that last for over 100,000 miles. Make sure they have the specified gap. Do not re-use spark plugs and do not attempt to "close the gap" on used plugs. If you have the V6, you will have to remove the intake plenum, which involves disconnecting a few hoses and electrical connectors (hint: digital camera); however, this is, overall, pretty darn easy to do. Do not add "fuel system cleaning" additives or accept a "fuel injector cleaner" service at a shop. If you want to clean your injectors, you should do your homework on what will work for your particular engine configuration. You can also remove the injectors from the fuel manifold/rail and clean them by hand (and replace the fuel filter while you're at it). You also might as well remove the throttle body and clean it out with brake cleaner while you're at it (it's right there; just do it).

    6. PCV systems get clogged because sludge builds up within the valve, causing it to stick. Again, if you choose a synthetic oil and change it regularly, this will never be a problem.

    7. NEVER do an "engine flush" if ever offered. These are nothing but a rip-off and, at worst,
    will destroy your engine.

    8. If you live in California, do your own maintenance unless you want to be scammed. Jiffy Lube, Wal-Mart, and dealers are scamming everyone. They charge for a job, and they don't do it -- Google this if you want more info (yes, this includes oil changes). Find a reputable local mechanic who does honest work. For fluid changes, etc., choose a repair shop that will allow you to watch the work as it gets done, such as Valvoline Instant Oil Change.

    so: stick with a high quality full synthetic oil, read the manual and stick with the appropriate maintenance schedule (most of us should choose the "severe driving conditions" schedule), never use fuel containing ethanol, never add anything other than unleaded gasoline to the fuel tank (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer), and don't drive your car like a bat out of hell.
  • cjhimselfcjhimself Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Mazda6, V6 wagon, which we love. We had the transmission replaced under warranty at 36000 kms. The Mazda service was impeccable and we have talked about it ever since. At 119000 kms we blew the engine. A rod bearing actually broke into chunks (!!) Mazda Canada says that you are over the warranty, so go away, we won't help. Even when we point out that bearings do not break into little pieces and the engine had always been serviced properly, they will accept no responsibility. We are left with an $8500 bill for a new engine in a car that is only worth $10,000.
  • I have a 2008 Mazda 6i Sport Value Edition that I purchased used with 10,000 miles in December 2008. This car has been towed to the MAZDA dealership over a half a dozen times because it would randomly not start. Almost always the car would fire right up and not duplicate the problem. The dealer replaced fuel pumps, wiring harnesses, and 5 pin connectors after talking with the factory. The problems subsided for a while but has now returned and now the vehicle cuts off while driving. Has anyone else experienced this? Any help or guidance in getting MAZDA to fix and address this situation is appreciated.
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 6s 6-speed manual. I have 90k miles on it. I recently had it in for service and they replaced a bad coil-pack and all my spark plugs. I've had it for about a week. It ran great! THEN- yesterday I started up the car and noticed a weird ticking sound behind the dash and observed that my trip odometer had been reset as well as all of my radio presets. I drove it to the store and shut it off, tried to lock my car and noticed that my car had no power whatsoever. I was able to get it started again, drove it back to my house and tried to replicate the problem with no luck. Then in the evening my wife and I were going out to dinner. Made it about a mile away from the house and while driving, the engine sputtered, all the lights and dash went hay-wire, lost all power then it randomly came back on. Luckily, we weren't on a highway because 10 seconds later, the car did it again, and completely shut off, no power anywhere. We pulled over and rolled to a stop. The car had no power going to it anywhere, no lights, nothing. This is extremely unsettling because had we been on a highway, we would not have any hazard lights to turn on and without power steering, who knows if I would have lost control had I been in the middle of a turn. I called the towing company, and a friend was on the way to pick up my wife. I checked the fuses and didn't see any blown, I popped the hood and checked the battery cables, which were not loose. Just as our friend got there to pick up my wife I noticed my map lights turn back on in the car. I was able to start the car back up and drive it back to the house. Much like you I have not found any answers on-line to the problem, just similar questions. To sum up my problem:

    1. Car loses all power, engine shuts off.
    2. No check engine lights or other warning lights remain on.
    3. I don't believe it's the battery or alternator given car will start back up.
    4. No fuses blown
    5. Car was not under high RPM's when it happened. A/C was on, radio was on and headlights were on.
    6. Unable to consistently replicate the problem.
    7. Could it be bad wiring, given the sporadic and inconsistent nature of the problem?

    Hopefully this post will help you feel a little better knowing you're not alone. Unfortunately I have no answers. I don't even want to take the chance driving my car to the shop because it is a safety hazard.
  • mlm99mlm99 Posts: 1
    In response to the PCV Valve, can anyone explain in detail how to change.
  • I have a 2004 Mazda 6 with almost 118,000 miles and I love the car. In the past couple of days when I put the car in reverse, there is a rattling sound, as if a chain is being dragged. The sound is not there when driving so I am not sure if this is anything to really worry about.
  • Wow this is really crazy. I was reading this earlier and saw all the posts. I bought my 2007 Mazda 6 new and my engine just went out at 106000 miles. I went to a dealership here outside of Atlanta, GA for a oil change, the service adviser told me I needed a coolant and transmission flush. They did it and then I get my car back and the engine goes out on 9/17 at 8:45 PM. I am on the phone with Mazda now and they are like oh well since my car is out of warranty by 45000 miles and there arent any recalls on the engine. There techs were the last ones who touched my Mazda. My dad has a 2008 Mazda 6 and he just had to get his engine repaired earlier this year. I refuse to pay Mazda $8000 for a used engine with 87000 miles on it. I only owe $4500 on my car if that since I refinanced it in 2009. I was looking at getting a Mazda CX9 since I need more space for my kids. MAZDA WILL NEVER GET ANYMORE OF MY BUSINESS AND I WILL KEEP GOING AND TELLING EVERYONE. MAZDA WILL NEVER GET ANYMORE BUSINESS AND GO OUT OF BUSINESS. :mad:
  • Tell the world, man!! My engine went at about 70,000 miles and Mazda just laughed. I have told hundreds of people and know that I saved several from buying a Mazda. Spreading the word helps!!!
  • klvauklvau Posts: 1
    Hey All,

    I hope someone can help me with my weird mazda issue.

    I have a 2005 Mazda 6 and within the past couple of months, when I drive on the highway the car will start sputtering, the gear light only on the dash goes off (all the other lights stay on) and the car loses power. This will only last for a couple of seconds and then go back to full power, but while this is happening I feel like the car is going to cut off.

    I have taken it to my mechanic and he said when he hooks it up to the machine no codes come on and he doesn't know what is wrong with it he would have to be in it when it happens. The thing is it doesn't happen all the time. I could happen 1x a week or 4x's a week, it's very random.

    If anyone else has had this problem like this and has a solution I would SOOOOOO appreciate the help.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • I have a 2003 Mazda 6, back in August the car felt like it just died, the engine was still running though and there was an "AT" lit up the dash, then I pulled into my drive but when I pushed on the brakes the car surged forward and I had to slam it into park to get it to stop. 30 minutes later it started no lights lit on the dash and I drove it to my mechanic. He checked it out put it on the computer or whatever and he couldn't find any error codes or anything wrong it, he even took it to a transmission specialist. The car has been working since then except there is surging / lagging at times when I am going slow. Then yesterday the same issue "A T" on the dash, loss of power pulled into a parking slot stepped on brake and I almost jumped the curb when it surged. Slammed it in park and there is sits. Freaky man, scares the crap out of me and my teenager drives it and I am afraid of what may happen.

    I bought this car in 2003 and just love this car, but why can't the mechanics find out whats wrong???

    Sorry couldn't help you!
  • I too have a 2003 Mazda 6s with the v6 engine and automatic 5 speed. I'm curious when was the last time you have changed the transmission fluid. When you describe the surging/lagging when going slow is exactly how our car operates when it is time to change the fluid. We've been changing the fluid depending on our driving and where we lived betweent 30k and 50k miles. Now we're in the DC area we have been changing it every 30k miles.

    Strange as this may also sound, when Jiffy Lube punctured our air intake, this made our engine run hot and missfire a bit. Believe it or not the engine being out of tune to a point like this also made the transmission do weird things like surging and lagging.

    It is scary because it makes our wheels chirp on first and second speeds when it shifts into them. But once we started changing the trans fluid and made sure the engine is always running properly, we haven't had the issue.

    Never had the AT code come up on us though, strange the dealer couldn't find anything wrong with it when the code obviously came up for you.
  • Hi there!! I am not sure if you have fixed the problem since posting this but i own a 04 mazda 6 and was having the same problem with it for about a year! When i was stopped at a red light the car would just sit there and jump like it was struggling to stay on. Also the check engine light would come on and off constantly. When i would get the light checked it would shoot the same message that yours did. After all of this, my father tried replacing all 6 of the fuel injectors. This completely fixed the jumping and check engine light! I have not had a problem with it, well with this set of problems, since! Hope this helps!
  • the first thing i would check are all power wires going to and from the battery, alternator, and starter to make sure they were tight. loose wires can cause this exact problem( especially with the flickering ) newer vehicles require two battery wires to the battery if they come loose or become corroded the vehicle will lose all power if it is running or not. hope this helps ....
  • When your Mazda 6 is using oil you must change the PCV valve. The PCV valve is not on Mazda's service schedule to ever change or inspect! :mad:
    When a vehicle uses oil it will clog up the catalytic converter and then bits from the catalytic converter will re-enter your engine via the EGR system causing engine failure. I actually have 2 PCV valves in line on my 2006 3.0 ltr Mazda 6.
    Spark plugs must be changed @ 65,000 miles, change ign coils at 100,000 miles. Changed your auto tranny fluid every 35,000 miles. ">
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 6 4cy 5-speed manual that did the exact same thing. My warranty ran out at 75,000 miles and I had 75,627 miles when i took it to the shop. The warranty company wasn't going to cover anything at first, but i supplied them with my oil change records since i bought the vehicle in Oct 2010. i recieved all the oil changes at the dealership so the warranty company gave me a 3,000 credit towards the purchase of a new engine. The repair shop stated the transmission had been replaced at some point and time, causing damage to the clutch, fly wheel, discs, and bolts. from reading other posts it sounds like the transmissions blow up first. The repair women stated the same problems as well, jumping time, cracked pistons, dry pistons, and lack of lubrication. i wish there was something they we could do to get some of our money back. i wont buy another mazda again.
  • Same problem here, 91,000 miles. Oil light flashed for a second and then it started making bad noises. Dealer says it needs a new engine. Extended warranty should cover up to 120,000 miles but they are not because of gaps in maintenance record. The mechanic took apart the engine and does not see any signs of poor maintenance. I am seeking legal counsel in the Chicago area right now.
  • I just swapped the engine in my 2005 Mazda 6 3.0L with an engine out of a 2006 Mazda 6. The newer engine came out of a wrecked car so I couldnt test it before removing it. Now the swap is complete but I am having problems with the installed engine being sluggish. I know the ecu's are different, does that have anything to do with the engine being sluggish? It just doesnt seem to have any power past 20mph and when its in park and you give it gas, the engine wants to die out. Any suggestions?
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