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Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 35
    I drive past Dworkin Mazda all the time and the buildings are empty. Too bad to a business that screwed me. And Mazda USA.... let them die as well. I've had 56 cars of which 7 were Mazdas. Great cars........Crappy company. Bye Bye Mazda.
  • how do i go about winning my case cause my engine has blown and they are saying that it's due to lack of maintenance in which i changed the oil myself. Can you give me all the information that you have to contact them myself. thanks

  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 35
    I gave up trying to get Mazda to do the right thing and am compiling all this data to prove to them they have a systemic chronic problem with these cars and I want the money I paid to replace my Mazda's engine back.
  • ianmaticianmatic Posts: 10
    Question fo you guys: I have a 2009 Mazda 6 i with about 4000 miles on it. every time i start the car the engine idles at a relatively high rpm. after a bout a minute or two it drops down. Is this normal? whenever i shift in reverse at the higher rpm, the car shakes, whats the deal here? anyone else having this problem?
  • ausbossausboss Posts: 1
    I have an 2003 M6 and a 2004 M6. I have just loved the cars. I have now had to replace both engines from oil loss. The 2003 had a complete, sudden loss of oil that resulted from a cracked oil canister cap. The cracked cap showed what seems to be "wrench" marks where the failure was and also on the opposite side of the cap. The 2004 M6 also had a cap failure that allowed oil loss only while running until the oil was depleted and fatal engine damage occurred. Mazda appears to have a specialized oil cap socket that can be attached to a wrench to avoid oil cap damage. I am still investigating, but if this is true, Mazda needs to warn all Mazda owners. Changing the oil with out the use of this "oil cap socket" may be dangerous to the health of the engine. Anyone out there.... are you seeing what I am seeing?
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    This must be for the I4 with the canister filter, not the V6. I have the V6, and have not heard of any problems with any of the oil filters on that engine. I've used many different kinds of filters, and I usually just hand tighten it on my car.
    The only issue i've read about relating to oil loss was the PCV failing, causing rapid oil loss. That's why I check my oil level very frequently.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    my niece also has the same car and it has the same noises. So seems to be the norm for this 2.5L engine. I think they just did not spend enough time engineering it. it is based on the 2.3, so they probably increased the piston stroke, made it longer or something. but they did not balance it properly. Honestly it sometimes sounds like a diesel engine. It knocks at idle in park, the serpentine belt squeeks when idling in Drive, and the engine has a valve tapping or piston slap sound when accelerating at low rpm. I am going to mention it on my next service. But I do not want them to start messing with it. If enough of us complain about this, maybe they will issue a recall or something. But judging from this forum, Mazda does not seem to care much about their customers. Too bad it is such a nice looking car. My 10 year old Daewoo Leganza 2.2L engine still runs smoother and quieter with no valve or belt or piston noises than my brand new mazda6.
    But it seems to run fine once you drive it around 3000 rpms when accelerating, and it is a smooth cruiser, so might be not a serious issue. I now put the music on when I am at a drive thru, to avoid hearing it.
    Oh, well I have had better experiences with Korean cars before, and I do not think I will keep this one for more than the warranty period. Especially with that fragile oil canister system. It is a disaster waiting to happen. I heard that it can be changed to a normal system. If I end up keeping the car, I will look into changing it.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    There is nothing abnormal or fragile about a canister oil filter set-up. Many cars have that and my understanding is that it is an improvement over a "normal" spin-on oil filter.

    What makes you think the gasket of a spin on, the only thing keeping the oil in the engine, is not as much or more of a disaster waiting to happen?
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    While I see your point, gaskets can fail too. But I think it is more likely I will notice a gasket leak because is usually fails gradually, abrupt failures for oil filter gaskets is really not common. While a PLASTIC cover canister can easily crack just from the aging effect if not from a rough mechanic. Heat and age will cause any plastic material to deteriorate. Does Mazda specify a replacement period for this canister cover? or they wait, since after the warranty period, if you lose your engine, they will make more money?
    I think it is a bad design because it has so many points of potential failure:
    1. Main O-ring
    2. Bottom plug O-ring
    3. Bottom plug torqued too much or too little.
    4. Canister cracking
    5. Canister torqued too much or too little.

    I think it is just a cheap ploy to keep you coming to a mazda dealer for service, at least while your warranty is effective, and after that, I am sure the canister has a pre-engineered life span where if you are not smart enough to replace it, and think it will live for the life of the car, you will end up paying for a new engine yourself.
  • scusimanscusiman Posts: 2
    Wow these all sound familiar. Some how my oil just disappeared. I changed it 2 weeks ago I checked again this weekend and poof, one blown motor.Of course I called Mazda and they have not heard of any problems like this before. Its kinda funny as I have a coworker who engine did the same thing. His was replaced around 38000 mile mine went bad at 55,000 miles. Both of us had no warning light, or any warning at all. I was told to take it to the dealer and they would take a look at it. I think I'm pretty much screwed. 5000 dollars that I don't have. They know its a problem. I guess they would rather cover it up than to do what is right. They will pay for it in the end
  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 35
    Well, include me in the Class Action Suit. I'm out thosands for my 2007 with 11,000 miles on it. Mazda refused to help me.
  • scusimanscusiman Posts: 2
    My car is 2006 same thing happened to me. Yesterday there was oil today it was gone. 55000 miles. Its in the shop now and I'm trying to get them to fix it.
  • Hey guys,

    I have found a used Mazda 6 2007 sedan sold by a private seller asking for 12800 with 12800 miles. The car is still under factory warranty. I would have a test drive. I have looked through the problem you have. After that, I am a little concern about mazda. But I have make an appointment with seller. So, could you give me any suggestion on test drive. thanks a lot.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    Well I finally solved the mystery of the engine tapping sound after the car warms up when accelerating at low rpm (1200 rpm). Since this noise started happening immediately after my first oil change, I replaced the dealer installed oil with a quality oil (Valvoline 5W20), and behold, my engine is back to smooth even after it warms up, no more noticable tapping at low RPM. My theory is the crappy bulk oil being used by the dealerships (I tried 2 dealers) shears or thins out at high temp, and it is viscosity changes and is unable to provide the same lubrication to the upper engine (valvetrain). Since I do not get those noises when the oil is cold, that is the only explanation I can find. The valvoline oil seems to behave consistently well even after the car has warmed up.
    Now the question, what do I do now with this information. Mazda mechanic said Mazda would not honor warranty if I am doing my own oil changes. I am thinking of using their oil simply as an engine flush, and then draining it the moment I get back from their service shop and replace it with a quality oil. However should I be worried about any long term effects to my car since I already drove it about 10,000 kilometers on their crappy oil. Is there a way for me to prove easily their oil is bad such as an analysis by a third party that can give me written confirmation that the oil they are using is no good. Then I can take them to small claims court or something.
  • russ2003russ2003 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Mazda 6 4-cylinder automatic. A few days ago it started doing a couple of odd things. First, when slowing down (as to a stop light) the engine rpm SOMETIMES doesn't drop to idle as I approach the light. The engine wants to stay and around 1800 rpm and keep the car going. The brakes stop the car just fine, but the car wants to go. Second, when cruising at around 45 mph, the engine surges from 1800 rpm to 2200 rpm. It happens when in drive or in "manual" and also happens in cruise control. Third, twice the engine was REALLY trying to rev at a stop light. The second time it happened I put the car in neutral and the engine rev'ed to 3000 rpm so I shut off the engine. When I restarted it a minute later it acted just fine.

    I took it to the dealer today and they said there are no problem codes, and of course, it wouldn't do it for them.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • rooney7rooney7 Posts: 2
    While driving my mazda 6 the horn randomly goes off in short three burst usually when i hit the brake or sometimes just randomly. does someone know what this is
  • rooney7rooney7 Posts: 2
    while driving my mazda6 it randomly makes a horn sound but not as loud in a three set burst people think im beeping at them anyone know what this is
  • russ2003russ2003 Posts: 2
    I took the car to the dealership to determine what the problem is with the surging. The good news is that they re-flashed the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the problem hasn't recurred.
  • willis6willis6 Posts: 1
    my daughter has had the same problem. She is on her second engine. Not that many miles. we are trying to build a case that this engine is a real lemon. Can you send additional information. We are taking this issue to the head of the mazda company. Just email when you get a chance. thanks and hope things worked out better for you.

    Thank you
  • cpf1cpf1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Mazda6, 70K miles, well maintained and driven normally by single owner. It developed engine performance problems and dealer replaced two cat converters under emissions warranty. Engine performance improved but not nearly to normal level and it is tapping and clunking. Dealer claims that engine now needs $600 diagnostic teardown with the likely result being need for a new engine. Any thoughts or expeience on this one?
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