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2009 Toyota Camry

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Comments

  • Molle was the low cost dealer on a 2010 SE. I am visiting them today. They only have LE's but can have an SE in 4 weeks.
  • paul3637paul3637 Posts: 45
    The $1200 list price differential between the LE and the SE is the biggest bargain in Toyota history - steel 17" alloy wheels, tighter suspension, and much nicer interior. I hope your are at least considering the $2300 V6 100 extra horsepower upgrade since you get a Lexus drivetrain and better real world highway gas mileage than the I4 offers.

    I paid Molle $22,066 for my '09 LEV6 from Molle in April 08 that sticker priced for $24,800. [That was $500 less than than I paid for my 1997 Camry in October of 1996 that had lots of options - but no power seat; now all those options - including the $700 engine immoblizer - are now standard equipment.] Last April, Molle was practically giving away the LE's but the would not negotiate much on the SE so the actual price difference was over $2000. Now I wish I would have paid the extra $2,000 for the SE since I just paid $1500 to switch out the tires and wheels to 17" aftermarkets alloy wheels and Michelin MXV4 Primacy tires (60,000 mile warranty) - and I still won't have the better suspension & interior of the SE.

    To avoid possible buyers remorse, let me suggest a couple of things regarding price and OEM tires:

    Price: Molle always gives the best price because they want to continue being the highest volume dealer in the greater kansas city area. But - they have a lousy service department. Olathe Toyota has a far better service department and they give you a free nontranserable lifetime warranty on the drivetrain. In my case Olathe's Internet Price was $800 more than Molle and they wouldn't match the Molle price when I called them from Molle. Olathe may be willing to come closer to the Molle price in today's economic conditions. [I live equidistant between the two dealers that are 16 minutes apart per mapquest.}

    Before going into Molle, get an Internet price quote from Olathe Toyota and print it out. If you plan on keeping your car past the factory drive train warranty period, it might be worth a couple hundred bucks extra to buy from Olathe. [http://www.olathetoyota.com/]. Program Olathe Toyota's number (913-780-9919) in your cell phone. After negotiating your best price with Molle, call Olathe and ask them if they will come close to or match the Molle price.

    Tires: Most Camry OEM's are Brigestone Turanza EL400 UTQG 260 that wear out in 20,000 miles (my front tires wore down to the unsafe mark of 3/32" of tread depth in 8200 miles - which I did not realize untill I went to take pictures of them so I could sell the tires and wheels on ebay). About 10% of OEM's are Michelins MXV4 S8's that get 40,000 or 50,000 miles. If your new SE has Bridgestone, tell dealer to "trade out" the tires for Michelins or knock $600 of the price of the car so you can trade out the tires. So long as your new car has under about 30 miles on it, several discount tire stores will trade them out for Michelins and give you a generous allowance for your OEM tires.
  • Made my deal at Crown in Lawrence on the SE. 23,600 plus 1000 for leather. The bettered Molle by 50 bucks and I live in Lawrence. 4cyl, moon roof, smart key, spoiler and the cheaper 6CD system are the major options.

    Olathe Toyota was basically the same price. Lewis in Topeka didn't want to bother with the deal when they found out what my existing deals were.

    The tires are supposed to be performance tires but its not known what they will show up with.

    4-6 weeks unitil I get the car
  • paul3637paul3637 Posts: 45
    Congratulations. Sounds like you pracltically stole that car !!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Not sure about that. I wish I could have waited until later in the year when there was incentives on the 2010 but I need the car now. Its the best I could do so I'll settle for that.

    Looking forward to checking out the added ponies on the SE
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Looking forward to checking out the added ponies on the SE

    Congrats. The SE I4 has the same engine as the other I4 Camrys. The 2010's get the new 2.5L. I'll be curious to see how everyone likes it.
  • The I4 SE jumps up to 179 hp while the LE is 169 hp. Both a nice improvement over the 2009 158 hp.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Wow, they must be tweaking the SE with the timing or some other computer chip mod. Does it do anything to the fuel economy?
  • From what I've seen on the net it is stated as the same mpg as the LE but that doesn't make sense so I'm not sure at this point.
  • paul3637paul3637 Posts: 45
    The 2010 SE may have the new 2.7 I4 that the Venza has. We'll have to wait and see. KBB.com has not adjusted the new horsepower for any of the 2010 I4's.
  • kohlikohli Posts: 1
    I recently got Camry LE with heated leather seats in Atlanta GA for $20800 (OTD) , I was also interested in body side mouldings but dealer quoted me another $500 for the same. So I backed out . But I wanted to know

    a) How good / effective are body mouldings ?
    b) Can any body share as what is a good price to pay for the same
    c) Alo is there any third party option ther than going to dealer.

    Thanks
    Kohli
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I got the body side moldings put on for less than $200. They are not going to protect you from everything, but they are better than nothing. I would negotiate the price with your dealer or try another dealer.
  • exlerexler Posts: 129
    You and kiawah were right on--I had the TSB-0069-08 done for the vibration issue and the matter is resolved. The mechanic who did it said it was the first he ever did on this problem. He did not even know what he corrected as he said it drove the same to him before he did it and after. I sure know the difference. Thanks.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Glad to hear everything worked out. Those two TSBs are very easy fixes for annoying problems.
  • exlerexler Posts: 129
    After thousands of miles finally performing right--I always wonder why these shifting aberrations are not discovered before retail, if exhaustive and complete road tests are performed. Do you have any knowledge about what type of road tests are performed on these vehicles and under what condition? Thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    FWD and F/awd manufacturers who do not yet use a CVT, or the engine's HP/torque rating is too high for same, are trying to match the outstanding FE of a CVT using as many gear ratios as can be STUFFED in the small space allotted with a sideways engine.

    Lots of compromises in order to NEVER reach the goal...
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    My understanding from what I have read of people who have had to replace a CVT tranny is they cost $6000 where as a 5/6 speed goes for about $3500 and the good old 4 speed for less than $2500.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    I agree, it is surprising that the improper computer program wasn't caught before the car went on sale. I'm just glad that it was only a simple 25 minute reprogram that solved all the problems. Look at it that way, it could have been a LOT worse.
  • hvtec2002hvtec2002 Posts: 19
    Will these cars last as long as the old models with all these computers in there?
    If I don't update these computer then my car won't run right or shut down?
    I have to keep up with updating my PC at home and then cell phone start doing it following with directtv and now my car too?
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    There is a old computer term that is "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" A lot of times by updating a program it causes more problems then it fixes. If your car is running fine and you have no problems then don't up date the software as you may then have problems.
  • kevlightkevlight Posts: 1
    If you can get a Japanese made Camry maybe you should, my 2009 Camry SE ([non-permissible content removed] Experience) was built in Kentucky and it has a persistent rattle in the dashboard on the driver's side and another on the passenger side. I've taken it in twice to be fixed and the best they can offer is that plastic on plastic. I expect more from a $30,000 car. If I could have done it over again I wouldn't have purchased the car. Other things that I don't like about it: the "heated" seats only stay on for a minute at a time, the car shuts itself off after a couple minutes when started with the remote starter, the radio shuts off immediately after the car is shut off, the charger does not work when the car is off. If Toyota wants to buy this vehicle from back me, I would dump it in a heart beat.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Try a different dealer re the dash rattle. There are TSBs out that the service dept. can use to fix the problem.

    By the way, I have had a Japan-built Rav that had rattles. I got it fixed under warranty (there was a TSB out for it). Just saying that you can't say that Japan built = perfection. It is mainly in the original design.
  • exlerexler Posts: 129
    Any opinion on the Yokahoma Avid Touring S--dealer here sells for $90 with balancing and all? I think they are UTOG 600 rated. It looks like TIRE-RACK had good reports.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Your answer may be the last words in your last sentence. In a heart beat =Chevy. Seriously, on all the cars I have owned with heated seats they all stay on until I shut it off. Most were either 2 or 3 settings for heat so yours shouldn't shut off after a minute. Also same on remote starters. They all stayed on about 10 min. before shutting off with the option of 2nd start either after the 10 min for another 10 min. or if used during the orginal 10 min. whatever time was left would reset to 10 min. As far as radio goes that may have been an option that you don't have. Don't know what you are refering to by charger. Sounds like you have some problems with your car that a good dealer should be able to fix as they sound like they are all repeatable problems that can be duplicated everytime. The problem is finding a good dealer. I think Toyota is going down the road GM traveled in the 80's where they sold so many cars they couldn't keep up with them and sent them out the door hoping the dealer would find and fix any problems before the customers found them. I think GM has fixed their old problems and now build some of the best cars out there and Toyota may or may not wake up before they aquire the reputation of building shoddy cars. Even in these down times of most car companies sales being down 40% or more I see GM outsold Toyota by 20,000 cars in March. Its to bad all car companies are suffering from the greed of Wall Street and the Insurance companies. I sure hope GM doesn't have to resort to filing Bankrupsy as I'm afraid we will all end up in a depression from our current recession and millions more end up on welfare or unemployed.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electric seats on my Camry, but my other vehicles with electric seats stay on until they are turned off. Did you have the dealer look at the seats, I'm betting something is defective with them.

    I just pulled out the electrical schematics for the heated seats. There is no timer circuitry or anything like that, which would turn them off. The regular illuminated seat heater switch is to turn them on and off. There are two little unmarked things that look like a mini-switch which is in the seat cushion (two on the passenger seat, two on the drivers seat), which aren't clear what they are. They may be pressure switches, or thermal switches. For instance if it was a pressure switch, perhaps it won't turn on unless someone is sitting in the seat. If it was a thermal switch, it could make connection only when it's cold, and when it heats up it opens up to keep the seat from overheating.

    I'd take it back to the dealership, they'll fix it for you.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    These days EVERYTHING gets counted insofar as fuel conservation is considered.

    These days most seat heaters either have a thermistor for controlling the seat heating level or they have two thermostatic switches. The heating elements get MAXIMUM power only until the desired/designed surface temperature is reached. In the case of the thermostatic switches once the design temperature is reached the system goes into 1/4 power mode and even that will be shut off if the seat surface temperature rises above the temperature setpoint of the second switch.

    With the thermistor once the design temperature is reached the power is simply switched on and off electronically to hold the seat at the design temperature.

    The remote starter "feature" is perfectly understandable.

    I've never owner a car wherein the radio didn't shut off when I turned the ignition completely off, didn't leave it in the accessory position.

    Charger = power to the cigarette lighter plug...SOP.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..or thermal switches..."

    Thermostatic switches, when the design temperature is reached one of these opens to put the heating element into 1/4 power mode. The second switch has an "overtemp" (discomforting) setpoint and therefore depowers the heater altogether. If/as the seat cools the switch will turn the power will come back on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    I've never owner a car wherein the radio didn't shut off when I turned the ignition completely off, didn't leave it in the accessory position.
    Lots of cars have this feature where a lot of the power is available for up to about 10 min. after turning the car off and goes off when a door is opened. You need to brooden your horizens as I had a number of cars with this feature.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Yes, for some 20 years now windows and headlights remain powered until the driver's door is opened, but I have never known (noticed??) that the radio did/does.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    If windows remained powered you can bet the radio does too and I have had a couple cars where even the wipers work too. Headlights on all cars work even if key isn't in the ign. Hence, why so many car batteries run down. :cry:
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