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Problems with Chevy Venture Gauges

2

Comments

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I know there is an adjustment procedure in the book for the cable and door travel. Will post later when I am home...I think to access it you take off one of the interior panels. IIRC, it didn't seem difficult.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Try this:

    Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Regular Method)
    Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.

    Position the center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) from the forward radius and that the cable tension slot is accessible in the window located on the Power Sliding Door (PSD) motor clutch assembly.
    Important: Use only a 6-point 14 mm socket on the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut requires very little torque to achieve proper cable tension. DO NOT exceed 20 N·m of torque on the adjuster nut. Use of additional torque beyond 20 N·m may damage the adjuster nut. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .

    Insert a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tension slot on the actuator motor.
    Push in and turn the 14 mm cable adjuster nut (1) counterclockwise until the tensioner pins are located between both the front and rear double blocks. The blocks are marked on the PSD module housing. This action adjust the cable tension. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .
    Remove the 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit from the cable tension slot.
    Operate the sliding door manually.
    Verify that the tension is correct.
    Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization .
    Place the jack in the storage compartment.
    Close the storage compartment door.
    Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.

    Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Alternate Method)
    Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
    Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Position the sliding door center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) away from the forward radius and that the cable tension adjuster nut is accessible in the adjuster window located on the Power Sliding Door motor clutch assembly.
    Use 2 medium Phillips head screwdrivers in order to move the cable tension indicators to the uppermost portion of the tension indicating windows. Hold the tension indicators in place in order to reduce the amount of force that is required to turn the adjuster nut.

    Insert the chuck end of a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tensioning slot in the actuator motor.
    Complete the following steps simultaneously until you feel resistance in the cable. Resistance indicates that the cable is taut:
    • Grasp the tension adjusting nut with pliers.

    • Push the nut inward.

    • Turn the nut counterclockwise.

    Release the inward pressure on the nut and allow the nut to lock into place.
    Release the cable tension indicators.
    Verify that the cable tension indicators are located between both the front and rear double blocks marked on the PSD module housing. The tension is acceptable if the indicators are slightly high but are touching the indicator marks. If the indicators are below the indicator marks, repeat step 6 through step 11 until you obtain enough tension. If the tension is too high, push in on the adjuster nut in order to release the tension, then repeat step 6 through step 11.
    Operate the sliding door manually.
    Position the door as described in step 5. Verify that the tension is correct. If the tension is incorrect , repeat Step 6 through step 11 until you obtain the correct tension.
    Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
    Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization in Owner's Manual.

    Here's pics:

    image

    image

    good luck :)
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    Thank you sooooooo much! I will give it a try when I get time, it looks kind of complicated hope I dont mess it up. Thanks again for your help! :shades:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    No problem, I'm sure you'll do fine....I don't have the power door but let me know how you do

    John :)
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    We're not the only ones...its old but its 4 pages long

    link title
  • HI I HAVE A 2002 VENTURE FIRST THE BRAKE LIGHT KEPT BLOWING ACTUALLY MELTING THE BASE,I FOUND FIX HERE ON THE FORUM, ALSO RIGHT SIDE TURN SIGNAL, THE MAIN PROBLEM NOW IS THE PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED,BUT DOES COME ON WHEN YOU FIRST START THE VAN. THE CRUISE CONTROL STOPPED WORKING AND THE TRAC CONTROL STOPPED WORKING ALL AT THE SAME TIME. I CHECKED AND REPLACED FUSES ALSO GROUNDS(THAT I COULD FIND) AND THE ALTENATOR IS WORKING OK. I REALLY WANT TO GET RID OF THIS BUT I WANT TOFIX THE PROBLEMS FIRST. ANY HELP WOULD BE A GREAT HELP!!! THANKS ROGER
  • I bought a 2004 Venture yesterday, because our 99 Montana died but had always been a good car before the last few months. Last night we drove the car about 30 miles and my wife took it out and called me and said that the temperature gauge was all the way over to hot. I told her NOT to drive the van but to wait for me. When I got there the coolant was in the perfect position and no indicator lights were on. I started the van and by the time I drove it home (about 1 mile) the gauge was pointing to the odometer below the gauge. Can you replace just the temperature gauge? And, do I have to remove everything from the front bumper back to the dash to get to it? Any help would be appreciated!!
  • raina09raina09 Posts: 1
    Just purchased an 02 Venture. The van was on empty when I got it. When to the gas station today and it wont go past 1/2 tank. When im driving it goes up and down. Upon purchasing this I was not informed that there was a problem. Any advice on what to do?

    Thanks
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Fuel level sending unit is likely bad - its a common GM thing from that time period caused by the sulfur in gasoline.

    I've read that if you catch it early enough, you can cure it with a bottle of Techron in the fuel tank as it cleans the sulfur off of the sending unit - for 15 bucks it might be worth a try but I wouldn't count on it.

    You can also check the pass through connector - its a bundle of wires underneath the car approximately under the drivers seat - disconnect and check that the contacts are all clean. Some of those wires go to the level sending unit as well as the fuel pump.

    Its more than likely that the problem is the sending unit though - its not a cheap repair as they have to drop the fuel tank to fix it...Good luck
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 51
    My Chevy Venture 2000 started giving weird fuel readings after I put in some relatively chep gas and let it get down to the end of that tank. I don't know if the events are related or not. I finally just started jotting down my mileage and no longer relying on the dial at all. Its annoying to have to do that but if I put money into repairs I want it to be only on items tha are relevant to the actual functioning of the vehicle.
  • chaseschases Posts: 41
    if your fairly confident with tools than do it yourself and save big!!!

    the tank should be fairly empty. support the tank with blocks or jack stands. The tank is only held up with two strapes and four bolts. being plastic and fairly empty, the tank should be managable to slide out from under the van. The float/sending unit is very easy to replace from there.

    Check all of your wire connections, clean and put eletric grease on them before re-installing.
  • dsmnfdsmnf Posts: 2
    Could bad terminal connections on the harness plug also cause the fuel gauge to constantly "vibrate" then sporadically jump around everywhere? Sometimes, it even almost does a 360.

    I also have a problem with my oil pressure gauge, in that while driving, the oil pressure gauge remains around 45-55. When I begin to slow down below 30 mph, the oil pressure gauge slowly begins to drop. At idle, it drops to about 20. It immediately goes back up to 45-55 as soon as I press the accelerator.
  • please tell me what you did to sove this problem. I am having the same problem with my 2004 chevy venture. very frustrating :confuse:
  • please tell me how you fixed this problem. i am having the same issues with my 2004 Chevrolet Venture :confuse:
  • I've had my 2004 chevy venture for over a year. The speedometer was the first to start going crazy.. it would say 100 when I was only going 30mph. Then the gas guage began acting up.. saying a full tank when it was only half full. NOW the temperature guage has caused me the most trouble! over $400 in repairs. :mad: No one has a clue whats wrong with it. it says that the car is running hot when it really isn't. thermostat replaced, everything flushed< what should I do next???? please help me :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
  • tina1017tina1017 Posts: 1
    OK, I am no expert, but I have spent several hours researching on the net and calling my two trusted mechanics. The problem is the speedometer cluster. This cluster is common to 2002-2005 Chevy Ventures and I am sure other Chevy vehicles. Google "chevy speedometer cluster problems" or "chevy speedometer cluster recall" and you will find that Chevy has issued bulletins about this problem on other Chevy models, BUT NOT the Venture. They also stopped short of issuing a recall...merely did a "special bulletin" to dealers/mechanics. The problem is faulty stepper motors on the gauges. MY problem is I dont have a solution. A used part will have the same problems as will a "new" one ordered through a dealer because Chevy has not fixed the probem. There are techs who will replace the step motors for around $170 like this one http://www.mrwhizard.com/Repair%20Pricing.cfm

    Good luck to all! I am sending my unit off in the next couple days. I will repost when I know if this is a valid fix.
  • hjavis72hjavis72 Posts: 1
    I have exactly the same problems except that the gas gauge is not working neither I hope somebody can help
  • sallylsallyl Posts: 2
    I have had a 2004 Venture for going on 3 years and my gauges has never worked right. I think that my van has a elctrical problem too. I have replaced brakes, struts, balljoints already 4 times. My power steering has never been right in the van I have replaced it 2 times already I don't know what's wrong with it. I have had a new headlite put in I had it done professional and after I had it put in the turn signal bulb melted in the lite. I wish that I had never purchased this vehickle I have had nohing but problems out of it since I have had it. They need to do something about this vehickle like there doing with Toyota. :mad: :lemon:
  • Tina- did you send the cluster in? Did that solve your problems?
    I have a 2004 Venture and I am contemplating sending it to Mr. Whizard in the next couple weeks. The gas & temp gauge are always off and the speedo now 'ticking' up the mph, so I think that's going next. After all the research I came to the same result as you.
    I was just looking for some feedback if Mr. Whizard's $189 fix is not worth it. Thanks!
  • deedlerdeedler Posts: 1
    OK, 2004 Venture, same temp gauge issues. Also have ABS light on occasional. Starter seemed to start going, so changed it. ABS light out immediately. 1 week and abs light comes back on. Then van won't start. Not even attempt to turn over, with boost or other attempts. Day later starts no problem and mechanic can't find an issue. 2 days later, won't start again. Lots of power, just no attempt by the starter to turn over. No noise, whir, spin or anything else. All guages seem fine, but abs light came on just before turning van off. Can't see why the two connected, but it seems to be. Any thoughts?
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