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Problems with Chevy Venture Gauges

We purchased a 2004 Chevy Venture 2 years
ago. I started experiencing problems with the temperature gauge about 5-6 mos. ago.
After replacing the thermostat,
we discovered that the gauge was sticking.
What I ended up doing was turning the ignition (not to fully turn over the
engine) but half way, then off.
I did this a few times and it dropped
the gauge to zero - problem solved. Now the speedometer is not working. I
was driving today and noticed that, while I know I
was doing at least 40 mph, the speedometer
showed 10 mph. Once I stopped and turned off
the engine and then turned it over and started
driving again, it somewhat fixed it, but it doesn't
seem to be working like it should. Anyone else having the same problems?
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Comments

  • The fule gaguge is not reading correctly. It only moves sligthly from full to 3/4 full???

    I was told the fuel pump and sending unit was about $500......
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    You were told correctly - unfortunately its a somewhat common problem...

    I've heard that sometimes you can "fix" it by running Techron fuel additive in a few tankfuls in a row...I can't personally say yes or no, maybe I should try it and post back since mine does the same thing...that Techron stuff isn't cheap though...I'm just as content to reset the trip odometer and fill it up every 300 miles...
  • chaseschases Posts: 41
    Wait!!!!!!! Wait!!!!!!

    FIRST........ Check the harness plug that goes to the fuel pump/sender unit. The plug you want to check is located under the van about where the drivers seat is. The plug is a 9 or 10 pin plug. What went bad on mine was a couple terminals start shorting out and arcing giving you a bad connection.

    Un-plug the plug and clean the terminals as best as you can with electric cleaner, rough up the terminal surface with a very small wire brush and clean again. Before you plug it back together put some eletric greese on each terminal.

    I put in 4 fuel pumps/senders before I found this little gremlin.
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 venture I just bought and the gas gauge is either full or empty. The car dealer assured me the problem was the fuel level sensor on the fuel pump, so I had it changed but it did not fix the problem. Do you think it could be the harness plug that was mentioned earlier? I really dont want to spend $400.00 on a fuel pump I already spent$120.00 on the sensor. Please help!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I have a 2000 Venture that does the same thing...I'm planning to check the harness plug when I get a chance...there are so many electrical gremlins in these things that I wouldn't be surprised...

    Thanks to the poster for the great suggestion about the harness...I know enough about the Venture to help others with their problems and its so great to learn new stuff!!!!! :shades:
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    I tried cleaning the harness plug after I have changed the fuel level sensor and am still having the same problem. Is there any thing else I can try other than replacing the fuel pump? It sounds like this is a common problem can someone please tell me a sure fix? Thanks
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    After changing the fuel level sensor , cleaning the harness plug, I tried the Techron fuel additive and almost immediately my gas gauge started to move. It was always either full or empty now it seems to be reading correctly. Who would have thought it would work! I wish I would have tried it sooner I would have saved some money! Give it a try .I will keep you posted.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    WOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!! :shades: :shades: :shades:

    As I understand it...the science behind it is that the fuel causes "varnish" on the level sensor and the Techron dissolves it...It was my post and I've never even tried it, only read about it.....headed to the auto parts store tomorrow....lets keep the rest of the world posted as to how we do !!! :shades: :shades:
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    Just thought I would let you know that Walmart has the Techron additive and it is only like 4 something a bottle . Probably a lot cheaper than a parts store , hope you have success! :shades:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Thanks...will pick it up there...I'll post back and let you know...keep us informed... :shades:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I dumped in the Techron today...we'll see what happens.....
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    well maybe we have jumped the gun a bit. Although my gauge is now registering other than full or empty,it is still bouncing around . I will keep you posted ,maybe after a tankful or 3 we will have good results!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I'm going to do it 3 tankfuls in a row and see what happens...haven't driven it enough yet to expect it to move...if the theory holds correct and it is dissolving the varnish off of the sensor...perhaps at will take a little patience...I'm also going to put it in a little stronger for the second 2 tanks, i.e. if the bottle says treats 20 gallons, I'll try to have less than that in the tank when I dump it in....
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Found this TSB# on the web...thought it might be of interest....I looked this stuff up and the bottle even looks exactly like the Techron bottle....who knows??????

    GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, Fuel Sending Unit Corrosion and Fuel System Deposits #05-00-89-078 - (Nov 9, 2005)

    2006 and Prior All GM Cars and Trucks

    2003-2006 HUMMER H2

    2006 HUMMER H3

    2006 and Prior Saturn (Canada Only)

    2005-2006 Saab 9-7X

    GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS
    GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco�, use 88861013) (in Canada, 88861012), is now available.

    Added Benefits and Uses
    The PLUS portion of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS is the addition of a filmer additive that, when used regularly, can protect fuel system sending units from the corrosive effects of certain sulfur contaminants found in some of today's gasoline.

    Sulfur contamination can disrupt electrical continuity of certain fuel sending units and lead to erratic or false fuel gauge readings. With scheduled usage, GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS protects against the effects of harmful sulfurs in gasoline.

    You Get Four Benefits
    One bottle of GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS added to the fuel tank at each oil change:

    � Cleans -- Sulfur corrosion from fuel gauge sending units.

    � Prevents -- Harmful sulfur components from attacking sensitive fuel system electronics.

    � Protects -- By coating metallic surfaces of the fuel system.

    � Removes -- Engine deposits left from use of poor quality fuels.

    GM Fuel System Treatment PLUS will replace the original GM Fuel System Treatment, P/N 12345104 (in Canada, 89020804). The original formula may still be available for a limited time, and provides the excellent Fuel System Cleaning aspects of the new product without the filmer.

    Parts Information
    Part Number
    Description

    88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco, use 88861013)

    (in Canada, 88861012)
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    I was just wondering would the fuel sending unit be the problem? I have already changed the fuel level sensor, is the sending unit the same as the fuel pump? I wouldnt think the fuel pump would be the problem it either works or it doesnt, right?
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I believe the level sensor and sending unit are the same part, 2 different names - don't have the book in front of me to be 100% sure

    you are right, pump either works or it doesn't.....

    Even on Chevron's website, one of the benefits of Techron that they list is that it frees stuck fuel level sensors....we'll see how we do...
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    have you had any results yet with the techron ? I am on my second tank and things are the same. I was thinking if the techron is for cleaning the sensor in the tank then i am wasting my time cause my sensor is new.Do you think changing the whole pump would fix my problem?
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I'll be putting in the 2nd bottle this week...so far, stuck on full, little movement...still haven't given up hope (yet)

    Your sensor could still be fouled even though its been replaced...I don't think changing the pump will make any difference...I'm gonna do the 3 bottles in a row before I give up...for the 2ns bottle, I'm gonna let the tank run down a little first so the concentration is a little higher...I'll keep in touch!

    John
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    2 Techrons - no changes :cry:
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    I am on my third tank. I put 2 bottles in a full tank this time. My gauge is actually staying in one place for short periods but then moves drastically. I am not holding out much hope for this to work.Do you know anything about the power sliding door? I forgot that it was a power door and went to slam it shut,when i did it made a grinding noise. I stopped and pushed the button to finish shutting the door.The door came off the track but shut the rest of the way but did not latch all the way. I put it back on the track and tried to let it shut again the same thing happened. Can you please look in your book and see if there is some kind of adjustment for the cable or something and how do you access it? Thanks for any help you can give. : :confuse:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I know there is an adjustment procedure in the book for the cable and door travel. Will post later when I am home...I think to access it you take off one of the interior panels. IIRC, it didn't seem difficult.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Try this:

    Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Regular Method)
    Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.

    Position the center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) from the forward radius and that the cable tension slot is accessible in the window located on the Power Sliding Door (PSD) motor clutch assembly.
    Important: Use only a 6-point 14 mm socket on the adjusting nut. The adjusting nut requires very little torque to achieve proper cable tension. DO NOT exceed 20 N·m of torque on the adjuster nut. Use of additional torque beyond 20 N·m may damage the adjuster nut. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .

    Insert a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tension slot on the actuator motor.
    Push in and turn the 14 mm cable adjuster nut (1) counterclockwise until the tensioner pins are located between both the front and rear double blocks. The blocks are marked on the PSD module housing. This action adjust the cable tension. If the adjuster nut rounds, refer to Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment .
    Remove the 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit from the cable tension slot.
    Operate the sliding door manually.
    Verify that the tension is correct.
    Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization .
    Place the jack in the storage compartment.
    Close the storage compartment door.
    Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.

    Rear Side Door Actuator Cable Tension Adjustment (Alternate Method)
    Remove the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
    Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Position the sliding door center roller bracket at the front of the track. Ensure that the bracket is 25 mm (1 in) away from the forward radius and that the cable tension adjuster nut is accessible in the adjuster window located on the Power Sliding Door motor clutch assembly.
    Use 2 medium Phillips head screwdrivers in order to move the cable tension indicators to the uppermost portion of the tension indicating windows. Hold the tension indicators in place in order to reduce the amount of force that is required to turn the adjuster nut.

    Insert the chuck end of a 9 mm (3/8 in) drill bit into the tensioning slot in the actuator motor.
    Complete the following steps simultaneously until you feel resistance in the cable. Resistance indicates that the cable is taut:
    • Grasp the tension adjusting nut with pliers.

    • Push the nut inward.

    • Turn the nut counterclockwise.

    Release the inward pressure on the nut and allow the nut to lock into place.
    Release the cable tension indicators.
    Verify that the cable tension indicators are located between both the front and rear double blocks marked on the PSD module housing. The tension is acceptable if the indicators are slightly high but are touching the indicator marks. If the indicators are below the indicator marks, repeat step 6 through step 11 until you obtain enough tension. If the tension is too high, push in on the adjuster nut in order to release the tension, then repeat step 6 through step 11.
    Operate the sliding door manually.
    Position the door as described in step 5. Verify that the tension is correct. If the tension is incorrect , repeat Step 6 through step 11 until you obtain the correct tension.
    Install the right rear quarter lower trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Rear Quarter - Right in Interior Trim.
    Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection in Engine Electrical.
    Perform the reinitialization procedure. Refer to Power Sliding Door (PSD) Re-Initialization in Owner's Manual.

    Here's pics:

    image

    image

    good luck :)
  • travisgtravisg Posts: 10
    Thank you sooooooo much! I will give it a try when I get time, it looks kind of complicated hope I dont mess it up. Thanks again for your help! :shades:
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    No problem, I'm sure you'll do fine....I don't have the power door but let me know how you do

    John :)
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    We're not the only ones...its old but its 4 pages long

    link title
  • HI I HAVE A 2002 VENTURE FIRST THE BRAKE LIGHT KEPT BLOWING ACTUALLY MELTING THE BASE,I FOUND FIX HERE ON THE FORUM, ALSO RIGHT SIDE TURN SIGNAL, THE MAIN PROBLEM NOW IS THE PARKING BRAKE INDICATOR LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED,BUT DOES COME ON WHEN YOU FIRST START THE VAN. THE CRUISE CONTROL STOPPED WORKING AND THE TRAC CONTROL STOPPED WORKING ALL AT THE SAME TIME. I CHECKED AND REPLACED FUSES ALSO GROUNDS(THAT I COULD FIND) AND THE ALTENATOR IS WORKING OK. I REALLY WANT TO GET RID OF THIS BUT I WANT TOFIX THE PROBLEMS FIRST. ANY HELP WOULD BE A GREAT HELP!!! THANKS ROGER
  • I bought a 2004 Venture yesterday, because our 99 Montana died but had always been a good car before the last few months. Last night we drove the car about 30 miles and my wife took it out and called me and said that the temperature gauge was all the way over to hot. I told her NOT to drive the van but to wait for me. When I got there the coolant was in the perfect position and no indicator lights were on. I started the van and by the time I drove it home (about 1 mile) the gauge was pointing to the odometer below the gauge. Can you replace just the temperature gauge? And, do I have to remove everything from the front bumper back to the dash to get to it? Any help would be appreciated!!
  • raina09raina09 Posts: 1
    Just purchased an 02 Venture. The van was on empty when I got it. When to the gas station today and it wont go past 1/2 tank. When im driving it goes up and down. Upon purchasing this I was not informed that there was a problem. Any advice on what to do?

    Thanks
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Fuel level sending unit is likely bad - its a common GM thing from that time period caused by the sulfur in gasoline.

    I've read that if you catch it early enough, you can cure it with a bottle of Techron in the fuel tank as it cleans the sulfur off of the sending unit - for 15 bucks it might be worth a try but I wouldn't count on it.

    You can also check the pass through connector - its a bundle of wires underneath the car approximately under the drivers seat - disconnect and check that the contacts are all clean. Some of those wires go to the level sending unit as well as the fuel pump.

    Its more than likely that the problem is the sending unit though - its not a cheap repair as they have to drop the fuel tank to fix it...Good luck
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 51
    My Chevy Venture 2000 started giving weird fuel readings after I put in some relatively chep gas and let it get down to the end of that tank. I don't know if the events are related or not. I finally just started jotting down my mileage and no longer relying on the dial at all. Its annoying to have to do that but if I put money into repairs I want it to be only on items tha are relevant to the actual functioning of the vehicle.
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