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Saturn Maintenance & Repair

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  • akf05akf05 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Saturn sl1 and when i take off the engine makes a whining noise. i cannot figure out what it is does anyone know. please email me at punk200516@yahoo.com
  • :sick: Exact same problem here. 2003 L200, ses light on, shifting hard, and cooling fan runs continuously (and seemingly fast and loud) after engine is started. This seems like some VERY specific symptoms, and I've got to believe there is a very specific fix. Anyone? Also, all three symptoms appeared within' 30 minutes of each other. Noticed Fan, then hard shifting, then the constant-lit SES light (not "service" light but non-wrench one). This is a 2.2 4cyl.
  • jadubjadub Posts: 2
    My 2005 Vue was broken into. The popped the lock on the driver side front door. I know there is power because the cigarette lighter adapter works. The ignition does not work. All lights are out. Key chain doorlock does not work. I am going to check and replace blown fuses. Can anyone suggest how I can get it started (to drive to service station)? Thanks Much! :sick:
  • i have a 96 sc2 1.9L DOHC. I was having similar problems. I would drive and then be stopped at a light, go to accelerate, and have nothing. I wouldnt be able to go any faster than about 12mph at 3200rpm. At times I have lost reverse, and then when it does kick in... the "thunk" is quite prominent. I replaced my transmission. Seeing as how my computer was kicking back 'improper gear ration' on the good ol' diagnostic... and she did have 101K on her. $800 and 1 week later, I am back in the same boat, and now told that my PCM module is shot. :mad: $710 from the local dealer plus $200 to program, not including installation. Do your homework on this one. Lots of people have had this problem.
  • satyrnsatyrn Posts: 1
    I have a 95 SL2 1.9L DOHC with auto transmission. Car has been stalling while driving every month or so for the past year. Recently started stalling more frequently and eventually refused to start. Took it in and had the fuel pump replaced &f uel filter checked. Car now starts fine and runs fine mostly, but the stalling while driving still happens on occasion.

    Last night happened again while on the freeway: while cruising around 55 mph, acceleated to pass another car. Car hesitated to accelerate, then after a few seconds did accelerate, then downshifted into 3rd while accelerating. After passing the car, my car shifted back into 4th. 20 seconds later while cruising around 65 mph, the car started to buck a bit. Put it in neutral and RPM dropped to about 300, then engine died. Was able to restart. I am unable to make the car stall on-demand.

    There is a hill near where I live. When I accelerate to go up this hill, car does fine, but once I top out and begin to come down the other side and begin slowing to come to a stop, the car often stalls (4 out of 8 tries). Once, it came to a complete stop and did not die but idled very rough for a few minutes (which means it can't be the Torque Converter Clutch, right?). Engine Warning Light came on for a few minutes but then went off.

    Any ideas what's wrong? The mechanic who replaced the fuel pump thinks it might be the torque converter clutch or the solenoid-driven valve used by it. I am wondering if it isn't the Throttle Position Sensor.

    I am considering unplugging the Torque Converter Clutch as a way to rule it out. Any concerns in doing so?

    Thanks,
    - Michael
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    have your insurance company tow it to the service station.
  • andygrandygr Posts: 1
    Paul,
    what is "gear shifter bushing?"

    I am having a problem with my 94 SL2 gears where I can not shift them when the car is started. No problems when the car is off. Someone suggested it might be a synchromesh problem. I have about 103,000 miles on my car.

    Thanks

    Andy
  • :cry: i was driving to work yesterday and just out of the blue my service engine soon light flicked on...after i got to work and got on my lunch break i went out there, filled it with oil, checked the rest of my fluids then started it up to see if anything changed and nothing did...i have 166,000 miles, and its a 2000...i've never had past problems with it except one day in the winter it came on then shut off a day or 2 afterwards...but this time i feel its acutally something because the day that it came on when i started it up it kind of started funny...it may have been cause its getting cold but either way its still bothering me. and like i said ive never had problems with it before, its a used car and ive had it since feb. of this year, the car as been great to me since, and i just recently had an oil change...not even 500 miles ago and this time around i had them put the high milage oil in.

    someone at my job also said that it could possibly be my timing belt due to the milage on it...so...does anyone have any ideas?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the Service Engine light is on there should be stored trouble codes in the engine computer. Have the codes retrieved (AutoZone will do it no charge) and post them.
  • wow thanks...ill have to take my car down there sometime soon
  • i jsut did what you said, i took it to jiffylube (no auto zone around here tha ti know of) he didnt tell me the excat codes but he did tell me what happened, 4 of them came up, but i think some were stored from the last time the light came on and shut off on its own cause it was never acutally cleared...

    speedometer didnt get the right reading
    a slow lead of something...i cant remember what he said
    ems failure (i think thats what he said)
    and i cant remember the 4th one

    he reset my light and told me to see if if comes back on, so now i guess i wait...thanks for telling me to do that though
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. If it happens again, try to get the specific code #'s. They'll be 5 digit, Pxxxx.
  • i just picked up a 96 saturn the other day.im having a problem with it losing spark.at times i can drive the car for miles with no probs then other times i break down 3 times in 5 miles.if i let the car set on a adverge of 15 mins when i lose spark it will start right up .im not getting any codes from the computer says it runs great.i know it it loseing spark cause i pulled plug wire off when it quit in no spark.i was thinking that maybe my coil was heating up but that just doesnt make any sence cause at times will run flawless in other times like crap.i have a feeling that this car is going to knickle in dime me to death.in the modlue behind the coil packs is pretty exspence to to take a guess at.is there a way to check to see if im getting power to the modlue.im thinking that my loss is before that in the packs.im oppen to any ideas would like to get this car running all the time.also this has a 98 sl motor in it.thanks
  • I had a 2000 SL1 and the first engine went on me at 78000 kms - cause was a broken valve. At first they wanted $5000 then they went to $2500 and then we settled on $750. They put the engine in and it lasted 450km. No kidding, only 450km - cause was premature wear, the engine was worn out like it had over 300,000 kms on it. The next engine was put in and at that time I decided to get rid of the car. The Saturn dealership would not give me enough to cover what I still had left owing so I ended up trading it for a Buick LeSabre at a small used car dealership that my cousin works at but I had to eat $1500. I was later told by my cousin that they sold the car a few weeks later and the transmission broke on the guy. I am so glad I got rid of that car. My recommendation is see if you can negotiate a cheaper price and trade the car in on something else right away.
  • Your problem is a both a worn coil and the module. I have seen problems like this in many GMs. Like most electrical if it is an intermittent problem you would have to wait until the problem reoccurs and then check the resistance of the various parts, but you would need to know what the values need to be. The only other way is to put the car on a scanner and run it until the problem happens. Garages will charge about $50.00/hr for this.
  • ok i will try to explain everything:

    i had a cyl 1 misfire p0301 and a camshaft position sensor error p0310 i believe i changed the plugs wires coils gas filter ects i then had a cyl 4 misfire p0304 but it was on and off not all the time the car drove great for 3 hours then like crap i put it on the compuyter at the shop for 3 hours it said cyl 4 misfire he ran tests on everything nothing came up with a problem everything checked perfect went to another shop checked the ohms on the wires coils perfect changed the plugs 4 times after went away for 5 minutes 1 hour 3 hours came back each time switched the cyl 1 and 4 wire at the coil thinking maybe the wires got switched ran great for 1 hour then got a cam shaft position sensor then the next morning got a cyl 1 misfire camshaft error was gone switched the wires back stayed on cyl 1 misfire took my msd coil off put back on old coil cyl m1 misfire took that coil off bought new stock coil put it on cyl 1 misfire took it back off put back on old stock coil cyl 1 misfire all my plugs are black the same black pretty much now here is were it gets tricky when it said cyl 4 misfire i pulled the cyl 4 wire off while it was missing it ran even worse very confused and mad i put it back on and pulled the number 1 cyl wire off while it was missing no difference apparently it has been cyl 1 the whole time but it was reading it as cyl 4 after i pulled the wire off it is now reading it as cyl 1 consistantly i pulled the wire clip off the injectors one by one while it was running cyl 1 gave me a noticable difference cyl 2,3,4 gave me a difference but not as much as cyl 1 all in all injectors seemed good the car is running rich but i do not smell gas i do smell some oil burning but it does smell normal for a saturn with 152k on it so i do not believe it is the regulator i also did a compression test each cyl has about 195psi so that checked out ok so i don't think it is the head i have spent a lot of money trying to figure this out and nothing is working i am about to go buy the module for $130 at pepboys and try that if anyone can help me with this at all i will name my next child after you thios has been going on for weeks and appears to be getting more often now everytime i start the car it idles great until i give it gas and let it rev back down as soon as it revs back down it starts missing before it just did it whenever it felt like it please any help will be greatly appreciated
  • i have a 1998 saturn that I recently had in for a full tune -up. Unfortunately my battery was defective and later had to be replaced. Now, the car will not turn over. Th plugs, wires, et cetera are all new & there was no problem prior to the battery dying. -- any suggestions?

    Also, does anyone know how to reset my radio. There is no Saturn dealer nearby and I don't have the damn code!!! I'd like to reset the radio, then disarm this security feaure. Thanks
  • tyr putting it in neutral and starting it
  • peat2peat2 Posts: 1
    Last week while driving at about 75 on the freeway my car started kicking and bucking. The tac went to zero, all other electrical worked (lights, blinkers, flashers, radio, AC/heat, etc.). When I got it started again, drove it the rest of the way to work and when I put it in park, it was idleing high. I shut it off and it ran normal. It has now done this about 5 times, doesn't seem to matter what speed, and seems to maybe getting worse. I pulled the codes and it has 12 (normal), 19 - 6X signal fault, 41 - EST bypass, open or shorted, and 43 - ESC (knock sensor) circuit open or shorted. 19 and 41 refer to a possible DIS Module - What is a "DIS Module"?

    Has anyone seen something like this? Any ideas?
  • i got another question for ya.i finally got my car to display a code it said that the cam shaft postion sensor was malfunction.ok the car was still quitting untill i ran low on oil when my oil light started to flash the car started running correctly.so now that it is low it hasnt quit once.do u think that maybe my sensor is getting coved in oil when the oil is at recommended levels like maybe a bad seal somewhere,and the reason it hasnt quit now is cause oil is low so its not getting the sensor.this is just a thought i was having .also i tried to change the module in the coil paks car was still quitting.all this makes sence to me why the car is starting after sitting cause the oil has time to dry up .well any thoughts
  • I have a 2004 Saturn Ion 2 Sedan. Recently I have noticed when I slow down (any time I hit the brakes actually) it sounds like the anti-lock brakes are engaging (on dry pavement) and the car shakes a little, like we are on rough pavement. Has anyone else experienced this? I have an appointment with Saturn in a couple of days and if this is a known problem, it would be helpful to me going in. Thanks!
  • SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAY HAVE A BAD CRANK POSITION SENSOR.
  • ONE OF THE WHEEL SPEED SENSORS IS DROPPING OUT AND THE EBTCM THINKS ONE OF THE WHEELS IS LOCKING UP AND THE ABS IS COMING ON.IF THE SENSOR DROPS OUT BELOW 10 MPH IT WON'T THROW A CODE.
  • My daughter's friend moved here after hurricane Katrina and she owns a Saturn. She was driving the car with no problems. She parked the car one night got in it the next morning and it would not turn over actually it didn't make a sound. We assumed the battery but the radio works and the horn blows. We checked all the fuses no problems. Do you have any suggestions? This girl is very short on funds and is trying to make a new start. My hubby is ok with changing parts but is no mechanic LOL. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank You Bev :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    stick shift or automatic?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 03 Ion, 20K. Intermittent problem. Occurs most often when coasting to a stop, such as approaching a red light, then accelerating, because the light changed to green, just at the point when the car was ready to downshift into first gear. It feels like the car has been shifted into neutral; there is no power and the engine revs up just as it would act if the car was in neutral and you accelerated. Called a car show yesterday and was told Saturn is noted for sealing rings inside the clutch drums failing. Seems like a big problem for a car w/only 20K, but the car guy was not surprised. Do any readers know this to be a common problem, or have different thoughts?
  • 1999 automatic
  • Hoping you guys can help me. A couple of days ago when I was driving to work, my radio went off (not the stock radio). I changed the fuse the next day, and it still wouldn't work, so I went to Circuit City, had them remove the CD player so I can take it in to get fixed, and put in the stock radio again. Well... it still won't work. I double checked the fuse and that has not blown. I also noticed this morning that my fog lamps and rear window defrosters were not working. Anyone have any ideas as to what could be wrong?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Might check the neutral safety switch and temporarily by pass it and see if the car starts (IN NEUTRAL PLEASE). This switch is usually attacked to the shift lever and prevents the car from starting in any gear except park or neutral. If it fails it can disconnect all current to the starter relay but you'll still have lights, radio, etc.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Was told by my local Saturn dealer that after 51,000 miles my brakes only had 10% of the original pads. Also, the cost to replace pads and rotors will be $349.00 + tax. I was advised that the rotors cannot be resurfaced and must be replaced.........any comments will be helpful.

    Thanks,
    Mark
This discussion has been closed.