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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kzmkzm Posts: 55
    I bought an after market mask from Lebra for my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville In Feb 2001. I only had it for a month and moisture and heat from the mask formed a cloudy stain in the paint on my hood! What ever you do, only get a mask that your dealership recommends. This way they can be held responsible if anything occurs under they mask while you are using it. I took the car to my local dealership and they wouldn't touch it and Lebra says I have to first take it to an auto shop to have heat lamps put on it to try to remove the stain and I will have to be reimbursed for that! I've used a Lebra mask on my 92 Bonneville for weeks at a time with no ill effects. My wife uses a GM mask for her 98 Grand Prix and no problem there either, so I would just be careful.
    Peace
    KZM
  • smfransmfran Posts: 432
    I once had a rubbing/clicking type noise coming from the front of my '94 Bonneville on sharp right turns. I stopped the car in that position to find the left tire hitting a piece of the fender that came loose.
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    MASK:

    Thanks for the tip about the front-end mask. Sorry to hear about the damage to your Bonnie. I have been wanting to get one for my 2000 SSEi and not all the mask manufacturers seem to have one yet for this model. I was thinking of just getting the GM Accessories one even though I'm not sure it is of the best quality or value.

    PAINT:

    The number with the "U" (for "upper", "L" for lower if two-tone) is the paint code. What color this actually is you'll have to look in the Helm service manual or just ask the service or parts department at a GM dealer.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    I'm also considering what to do to protect the front of my 2000 SE. It already has 23K on it since I bought it used and you can really see the chips on the facia and even the hood. I do a lot of highway driving and of course here in the northeast we have road salt and sand all over the roads. Not sure what I'll do.

    Ken
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    Hello, thanks everybody for the help with the color code. I have another problem now that seemed to me simple at first. After the engine gets warm I can hear squeaky noise from the engine. It comes from the belt and I was told by few persons that it is faulty water pump. Two days ago, the water pump was changed for the remanufactured one (NAPA). However, the behavior and the noise stayed the same. I tried to listen to the noise with the long paper pipe in order to allocate the source of the noise. It seems to me that the noise is coming from the bottom rear wheel that is moved by the belt also. I do not know what is the function of this wheel. My question is whether I could be right about the source of the noise. Or do you think that it has to be the water pump and the remanufactured one was faulty?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    dbaca, if the noise is pretty much the same after changing the water pump then either the serpentine belt or one of the belt tensioner pulleys is probably at fault. A stethescope with a 12" probe (or equivalent) will isolate it pretty quickly. Obviously, take care around rotating components.
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    alcan, thank you for your help. The serpentine belt is brand new, so it must be one of pulleys or the water pump. The water pump is just a little bit wobbling; therefore, it occurred to me that the remanufactured water pump could be faulty.
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    I wrote the message 268 thinking that my problem is the water pump. However, starting the engine without the serpentine belt showed that the noise is approximately coming from the space between the engine and the transmission. The auto-mechanic took off the bottom cover of this space, but nothing bad was found. I found out that the frequency of squeaking does not change along with the engine repetitions. I have been driving with this noise 6000 miles and it is still the same. My Bonneville is SE type, has 91000 miles on and is from the year 1995. Does somebody have any idea what can be the source of the noise?
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    The noise turned out to be caused by the engine. People from GM looked at the car and they found out that there is too much vacuum in the engine. When they opened the gap for filling engine oil, the noise stopped. They suspected the PCV valve, but its change did not help. Any ideas?
  • That really would suck!
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    What do you mean? I really was told by the GM Goodwrench man that the sucking through the gap is too strong.
  • Maybe you should stand up -- I think it went over your head.

    Too much vacuum.... that would suck.... get it?
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    OK, I have been just one year in the US. So, my English is not perfect and it is difficult to understand all jokes either.
  • mdb231mdb231 Posts: 1
    I've recently purchased a 1997 bonneville ssei. The Pontiac dealer told me there was not any type of oil check for the supercharger. Is this true?Also the hemp. gage fluctuates between 190 and 220-240 on a regular basis. Is this normal? Thanks in advance.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    It is probably your half shaft. Also know as a drive shaft, Prop shaft, or CV shaft. Turn the wheel all the way to one side, look at the rubber boots near the hub and trans. If it's cracked that is the cause of the noise. The boot keeps the grease in and more importantly the dirt and water out, protecting the bearings from excessive wear. The clicking and popping you hear is the bearing "eating" itself. Good luck and let us know if you find the problem, and what it was.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    It is probably the heads causing the noise. I had a van with worn out valve guides and seals that did the same thing. When the engine is on the intake stroke it pulls air from any place it can get it. With the mileage you have on the motor, this may be the reason. Nothing can really prevent this, it just wears out. If the engine runs good otherwise I wouldn't worry much. I drove the van for 100 K miles more after it started and sold it in perfect running order except for that noise, and a little bit of oil consumption, 1 quart every 2 K mi. If that is the problem the only way to fix it is to have the heads re-built, and that's expensive, like over $1000.
  • dbacadbaca Posts: 20
    jgmilberg, it looks that my problem is the same as yours. However, the noise starts after the engine is entirely warmed up. Does it tally with your experience?
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Posts: 419
    I have to say that while I'm not a professional mechanic by any means, I've done my share of major work including complete rebuilds. I can honestly say I have never heard of too much vacuum and can't even conceive of how that could happen. Air leaks, regardless of the source, would cause the vacuum to go down and affect driveability.
    The engine derives its vacuum by the pressure drop of air as it passes by the throttle. The engine induces the air to be pulled in but the throttle actually produces the vacuum at other than wide open throttle conditions. That's why there is no engine vacuum in the manifold at wide open throttle.
    If the mechanic truly told you that too much vacuum was the culprit, I think I'd find another mechanic, one that isn't full of baloney.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Supercharger oil should be checked every 30,000 miles. The check/fill plug is located in the front side of the gear housing, low and toward the supercharger body. Remove the wiring harness shield to access. Requires a 3/16" allen wrench to remove. Do not remove plug with a hot engine as pressure may cause hot oil to blow out of the fill hole. Allow 2-3 hours cooldown before checking. Oil level is correct when at the bottom of the fill hole threads. Use only GM Supercharger oil, P.N. 12345982. And get a new dealer who knows what day it is.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    mfahey1-It is not the same as intake manifold vacuum. It happens in the valve cover as a result of worn valve guides. It's a negative pressure inside the engine crankcase itself, not caused by a manfild gasket or busted rubber/plastic line.

    dbaca- Yep only after the engine was warmed up and run for at least 20 minutes of driving would you hear the damn thing whistling, drove me nuts, I ended up drilling a 1/4" hole in the cap to get rid of the noise. Don't recommend doing this on a car, because my van had a remote oil fill tube under the hood where water didn't really find its way very easily.

    alcan- I have seen your posts and you seem to have a really good backround in auto repair, have you ever seen or heard of this happening.
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