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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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  • Spoiler is held with 6 bolts fastened through deck lid and foam-type adhesive. Waterproofing material around bolts degrades with time, allowing water to enter deck lid. Water stays in deck lid and then comes out into the trunk when trunk lid is raised. Some potential solutions are to remove spoiler and reseal around bolt holes and refasten spoiler and/or drill hole in lowest portion of deck lid to allow water to exit. If drilling a new hole, good idea to put some paint on so doesn't rust.
  • rhauerrhauer Posts: 1
    Occasionally, my Bonneville will crank, but it will not start. The service engine light is not on when this happens, and the only way it will start is if I put the accelerator all of the way to the floor. The fuel pressure regulator has been changed. One more thing that has happened this past week is that the security light is on all of the time. Any suggestions?
  • we have replaced the coil pack, ignition module, battery, ecm, sensor, plugs and wires, fuel filter, checked injectors, probley twenty new parts on the car. had mechanic replace crank sensor. car use to start but after replacing coil pack and ignition module and battery, it wont even crank. dead to the wind other than the dings from door, seat belt, ect. help why wont it crank?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    Is the security system light on. The car won't crank if the key doesn't turn on the security system.
  • I dont have a security system in the car. Can you think of anything else?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    Yours doesn't have a resistor in the key that's a security item?

    IF you connect the correct battery cable directly to the starter terminal, does the thing crank? IF you're not sure which does what there, have someone who's done this before jump the solenoid connection that normally gets power from the key switch.

    You might have a corroded out cable to the starter from the battery. Try paralleling a jumper cable from red battery post to red terminal on the starter.
  • jamesw1jamesw1 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem on my 99 Bonneville. Last summer, all of a sudden, the courtesy lights stayed on after the door was closed. No intermittent problem here. I had to pull the courtesy lamp fuse and rig an on-off switch under the dash.

    But, I am told the problem is in the door latch switch, but I would like to have someone verify the name...is it door lock relay, or door lock switch or door relay, etc?

    Finally, how can I fix this myself? I assume I have to remove the driver's side door panel to get at the switch or relay, but how do I do this and is there a good instruction book with photos or is there something online for free?
  • bowtie1bowtie1 Posts: 3
    first time on the forum...have a95 ssei and the boost guage doesnt work properly.The boost guage at idle reads at minus 70 kps instad of zero.Under acceleration the boost guage reads in the plus side.any thoughts on what could be the problem?
    thanks bowtie 1
  • bowtie1bowtie1 Posts: 3
    Fist time on the message board:I have a problem with the boost guage (95 Bonneville).When at idle the boost guage reads at minus 70 kps instaed on zero.When at speed the guage reads into the plus side.The supercharger is still good.Any comments on what the problem could be a what to look for to correct it?Thanks Bowtie1
  • bxd20bxd20 Posts: 68
    If the car was cranking, and you replaced an ignition module and a coil pack(s), and now it won't crank, it's time to put one of them back and see if you can't get it going. I'd start by putting back the old ignition module. Are the new parts GM? This is one area where the stock part is generally better than any aftermarket stuff you can buy.
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Looks like a few here have had problems with dash lights and I do as well now. Has anyone tried replacement yourself and how difficult was it? How expensive has it been for the dealer/repair shop to replace them?
  • blankblank Posts: 2
    for some reason the alarm system on my '99 bonneville goes off for no apparent reason. its pretty loud and the neighbors dont seem to like it when it happens at 1am. is it possible to disconect the alarm and if so how? or could i just disconnect the horn and where is it located? appreciate any help.
  • davermdaverm Posts: 1
    Hi we had the same problem with our bonnie and it was the maf sensor. if you tap it while running and its bad the car should die dealer cost 300 to fix
  • I have a 89 bonneville with the 3800 motor. It started stalling while at an idle and now it is starting to stall when you let off the gas to stop. It has new plugs in it. I wonder if possibly it is the oxygen sensor. Does anyone know if this is the right direction to go???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    I'd suggest going to Mr_Shiftright, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1193, 18 Mar 2005 3:32 pm
    and asking there for suggestions.

    Does the pedal seem to stick when you start to move it to accelerate from a dead stop? My 98 had carbon buildup around the butterfly valve that made it do funny things at idle, but it never stalled out completely.

    Go to Technical Questions and see if Alcan, a mechanic with great knowledge, can help you find it without a garage repair bill.
  • mama2mama2 Posts: 1
    i have a 93 bonniville 145,000 miles. last week i was driving it and it died when i slowed down and was sluggish while driving. now the last time i drove it, it just died like it was not getting gas. we have changed the ecm module,IAT sensor, air canister, spark plug wires, coil pack, and crank sensor. the fuel pump is working and we can smell gas in the engine when we try to start it. just sounds like it isn't getting a spark. what can i do?
  • rickvrickv Posts: 1
    I have an '02 Bonneville SE with 37000 miles. at about 17,000 miles I noticed what sounded like an exhaust leak noise coming from the engine compartment during acceleration. I have had it back to the dealer 5 times now for repair and each time they replaced some part of the exhaust system but I still have the noise (it even seems to be getting worse).
    They have replaced the exhaust pipes and muffler, crossover-pipe, rear manifold and the flexible downpipe connector (twice) and still I have the noise.
    After the last repair attempt (the manifold replacement) and the noise is still there, the mechanic told me he has been checking other pontiac vehicles with the 3.8L engine and claims they all have the same noise, but the owners are not complaining.
    I find it hard to believe that all these vehicles have the same noise I am hearing and are not complaining about it. Does anyone else notice this type of noise? (to me, it sounds like an old tractor running, but only on acceleration under load).
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    The black trim surrounding the door windows (all the way around the window) on my five-year-old SSEi seems to be decomposing. It's become sticky and fingerprints are easily imprinted. Also sections around the trailing edges of the rear door fixed glass are bubbling slightly. This problem has been getting progressivly worse over the years. Anyone else experiencing this? The car is way out of warranty, and it looks like a lot of labor to replace the trim. The worst parts are the fingerprints and every bit of dust and fluff in the air sticks to it. Also it's not shiny black like it was when new; it's become hazy. This is in contrast to the black door pillar trim, which must be made of a different material because it looks and feels like new.
  • oldtonyoldtony Posts: 3
    Engine cranks fine but no start. Ignition good I checked it with a time light . I'm thinking maybe it's the fuel pump or the fuel pump control module, I can't find the fuel pump control module.
    I still have no idea why the power Windows stop working. It always happens at the same time engine won't start, power Windows don't work.
    In the past it started working again after a switch some relays but now nothing. Any ideas?
    Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    Try posting in
    dunk, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1233, 26 Mar 2005 9:04 am
    to see if Alcan has a suggestion of what to start checking.
  • rustyulrustyul Posts: 2
    I'm changing out the rear brake pads on my 2000 Bonneville for the first time. I've done brake jobs on all types of vehicles before, but this is my first rear disc brake job. Can anybody tell me how to get the caliper piston to move back into it's bore? I've bent two different C-clamps (light and medium duty) and it hasn't budged. The parking brake cable has been removed and the actuating lever has been retracted. Am I missing a step? Anybody have any ideas?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    Have to check manual. But I seem to recall discussion that you have to rotate the piston counter-clock wise to move it back. Are the two holds in the front where a tool's two points would engage to rotate the piston?

    You might post in
    dunk, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1233, 26 Mar 2005 9:04 am
    and see if Alcan responds. Youmight search the discussion for help with rear disc brakes on GM cars...
  • rustyulrustyul Posts: 2
    Well, I figured it out. As Imidazol97 stated, you do have to rotate the piston, but it's clockwise like tightening a screw...in fact, it is tightening a screw. I ended up removing the piston from the caliper because I couldn't figure it out, and there is a very low helix screw inside the piston. It mates with a female part inside the caliper. The indentations on the piston may be for a special tool, I used channel locks on the face of the piston, as it doesn't go into the bore. Also, the brake pads have a pin on the back side that fits into this recess.
    Thanks for the help. Oh, BTW, don't remove the emergency brake cable from the caliper. If you remove the hold downs for the cable and don't remove cable end, the caliper is free to remove and manipulate.
  • fredeefredee Posts: 1
    hello all, I'm a newbie here and hope someone can help me with my 1996 bonneville. 56000 miles on it and today I has the strong smell of rotten eggs and a hesitation that got worse and worse over my drive home. Now it hardly runs at all. Acceleration is near zero. Engine light is on and alternates between flashing and not flashing. Autozone scanned and got codes p0300 & p0336. Pretty generic codes I know but hoping somebody has had a similar problem. Can anybody shed some light?? thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

    Might be a combination of crankshaft position sensor and needing fresh plugs and wires, but could also be a problem with the ignition control module (under the coils). I'd start by replacing the plugs and wires (AC Delco only) if they're original. Here's some diagnostic info from GM:

    Diagnostic Aids
    An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for the following conditions:

    Important
    Rotate the engine crankshaft until the 18X sensor has a voltage greater than 4 volts before performing any Diagnostic Aids.

    Poor connection at the PCM, ignition control module, or CKP sensor. Inspect the harness and connectors for improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
    Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the PCM, turn the ignition on and observe a voltmeter connected to the 18X reference circuit at the PCM harness connector while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the ICM. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the malfunction.
    Incorrect harness routing near secondary ignition components.
    Secondary ignition wire(s) arcing to wiring harness. Check secondary ignition wires for carbon tracking or other signs of damage.
    Malfunctioning Ignition Coil. Remove the ignition coils and inspect the ignition control module and coils for cracks, carbon tracking, or other signs that indicate that the coil secondary circuit is arcing to the ICM or ICM wiring harness
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I don't have my info website available right now, but if I remember correctly there's a multiple ground point under the left front corner of the carpet. Try pulling the carpet back and checking for a loose or corroded ground.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,093
    If it's the same as my 93 it has connection in the panel left of the parking brake pedal. I never was able to find it to check my 93's strange cut in cut out problem with air conditioning control defaulting to defrost with compressor running and power locks not working for a few minutes at a time then working again.

    There also was a ground connection to the left of the driver's seat under the carpet. That one was just where your left arm would hang straight down sitting in the driver's seat. There was a raised area in the carpet for about 8-10 inches for the box. That one was more suspect for me because it would get moisture into it from window open and getting in and out during rains/snow and moisture in carpet keeping that area humid.

    I never dug into there-my wife made me trade the car for a new Celebration in RED.
  • oldtonyoldtony Posts: 3
    THAT FIXED IT, I looked where you said and found a
    ground block just a little bit ahead of the door jam ,in a coduit wraped in tape ,I removed the bus plate and cleaned ,now everything works great.
    Thank You vary much...
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You supplied the key when you posted that the windows quit too. They're powered separately from the fuel pump, so that left the ground. Glad to hear you got it up and running again.
  • Hi
    For the past few months I have noticed coolant loss in my 2002 Bonneville. It empties the reservoir tank but the rad has never been low. I have checked oil for coolant but it is not obviously visible in the oil. I have had the throttle body nuts replaced etc. but that didn't solve the problem. I have had a lifter noise occur occasionally but it always went away quickly. But last week I started the car and the noise was really loud and the car started missing and running really rough. I noticed the oil pressure gauge fluctuating between normal mid point and the 3/4 mark. My mechanic checked the oil - no visible coolant - pulled the valve covers and said 3 or 4 of the lifters were collapsed. He put the car back together then started it - no noise - and parked it. When I arrived, he started it and noise was back! Anyone else have the same problem? GM assume any responsibility? The car has 113,000km on it.
    Thanks

    Frank

    p.s. I accidentally posted the above in 'Messages'
    section. Sorry
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