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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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  • tsteffentsteffen Posts: 2
    i own a 97 bonneville, the replacement engine has 60,000 miles on it.

    lately and i only notice this when going up hill. it hesitates almost like a chug chug chug up the hill and then the temperature gauge goes way up. it had done this about 2 months ago and then didnt do it again until now. the mechanic says he cant fix it if it aint broke because it never does it when he has it.

    if anyone can help i would sure appreciate it
  • tsteffentsteffen Posts: 2
    my 97 pontiac bonneville chug chug chugs up hill and then the temperature gauge goes way up. it doesnt do it all the time, just intermitent.it feels like it missing but it isnt and it does only when i go up hill or at least that is when i notice it the most.someone had suggested the transmission problems?

    thanks for any help
  • I found out what it was. There is a sensor above the tps on the throttle body and it was carbend up. So I hit it with some carb cleaner put it back in and it runs awesome.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like the mass airflow sensor. Good to hear you got it sorted out.
  • chezraychezray Posts: 1
    Had a replacement engine 3.8 L turbo put in my car with about 70,000 miles on it that came from a Riviera that was rear ended. My original engine had 145,000 and needed replaced.

    On the replacement engine the shop replaced all the gaskets (new), put in new bearings, plugs, catalytic converter, etc.

    Got a 6 month, unlimited miles warranty. Have burned almost 4 quarts of oil in the first month (1000 miles). There are no leaks anywhere and nothing noticeable from exhaust.

    Car in shop now and they have ran a series of tests, compression, etc.and so far everything checks out ok. Any ideas as to where oil is going? What should I do if they can't find the problem? Should they be responsible for repairing the problem (if they find one)or replacing the engine if they can't solve problem? Thank you....chezray
  • manny3manny3 Posts: 2
    Hello
    I too have the same problem with my 95 SSEI and dealer did tune up ,water pump and know is telling me need transmission at a cost of $3500 to $4000.
    don't known what to believe any more.
    Car has 8700 miles only.Will try to identified the TPS sensor. Hope this will do it.
    Thank you for your information.
    Manny3
  • manny3manny3 Posts: 2
    hello again.
    Does that sensor come out easy or did u spay over it?
    Thanks agin
    manny3
  • Code Shows 1-2 which is all okay or ECM.....Changed that(ECM)could this Be the Crank Sensor.......I noticed that if I sat at idle at a light and let the motor heat up it would start to hesitate and even stall out........So when it would start I would run Fast and the air cooling it down when on high way seemed to allow it to run okay.But know it burped white smoke out the intake when I went to start it and it wont turn over.........It then kicked a Egr code once so I went through that,all the Vac tubes are replaced as well....New Ign.packs on the top end and still I get the 1-2 ode as all is well.......I am not getting a Sensor (Crank) code but that was the suspect all along.

    Thanks For Any in Put.....
  • ss396ss396 Posts: 2
    I have owned my '02 SLE since new. It has 56,000 miles and just in the last 6 months the driver's side seat has developed a very hot spot when using the heated seat. Even on the low setting I can't hardly stand it for more than 10 minutes MAX!! My guess is a short and probably not very safe to use right now but just wondering if anyone else has had this problem?

    Thanks for insight
  • tmds3tmds3 Posts: 2
    Was wondering if there is an easy way to pull the ABS code from my 96 SE, I know I can jump to pull engine codes but can't find anything on how to pull ABS codes. The light comes on and stays on after the brakes warm up, never on while the brakes are cool.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You can't jump anything on a '96 to retrieve codes. It's OBD II compatible and a scanner or code reader is required. The only way to retrieve ABS codes is with an ABS capable scanner.
  • tmds3tmds3 Posts: 2
    Do you know if Autozones readers will pull ABS codes or just engine codes?
    Thanks,tmds3
  • lmcg2926lmcg2926 Posts: 1
    I just brought a used 95 Bonneville. The brakes went out on me and they said it had to to do with the master cylinder and the ABS censor for the front and back wheel barrons. Well, i told them to fix the master cylinder this is costing me $353 but to fix the ABS sensor that is going to run me $600-$700. Does anybody know where I can get a cheaper price on the ABS sensor? Or if your in the RHode ISland area and know of someone who could do it for cheaper please let me know!
  • :cry: Hi,
    I have a 92' Bonneville and I've had the battery replaced twice and just had a new alternator put in a few months ago...It drove like a dream til yesterday I went out to start it and it was completely dead. I'm going crazy over here when I keep taking it back to the shop constantly and having to get it jumped all the time. I'm at my wits end with this car. I love it dearly and need to hang on to it for about another year or so til I graduate from college. If anyone has any suggestions please reply!
    Thanks,
    Kelly (broke college kid from Purdue)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    You might post in
    Mr_Shiftright, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1355, 25 Apr 2005 12:06 pm
    and ask alcan to suggest what might be happening.

    All I can think of is a neighbor with a 3800SC Gran Prix a few years old who had lots of battery drain problems since almost new. Another neighbor who's a shadetree mechanic found it was the starter. He replaced the starter and no more morning surprises with a flat battery.
  • dac033dac033 Posts: 1
    I have been reading postings with great interest. I have a '99 bonney I've owned since new. I have experianced same vibration problems and been told it was because tires needed rotating, I had tires rotated every 6000 miles - didn't help.

    Just had to have upper and lower intake gaskets replaced at 79000 miles. I also noticed coolant loss with no appearant leak but did find a small puddle after car sat for 2 days that motivated me to have it checked. I am relieved that I am not alone with this problem but a angry that it is such a common problem with no apperant concern on the part of GM.

    I love my car but am now disappointed that I have to worry when this may happen again :(
  • jimmy9jimmy9 Posts: 1
    i had the fly wheel and the starter changed, the car turns over, but will not start. what do you think the problem is, and where should we start looking. it seems to be something minor.
  • bishop819bishop819 Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Bonneville Se non supercharged and I had the very same problem. The oil pressure sending unit usually is the culprit. Either the wire that goes to the guage has fallen off due to being pressure washed or the sending unit has gone bad. Either way its $30 for a new one or a little dirt on your nails to reattach the wire. Good luck.
  • bishop819bishop819 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on my 1996 bonneville w/over 200,000. I have hed the tranny replaced along with the torque converter (Standard procedure when replacing tranny) but the shudder is still there. I have read elsewhere that it is a low torque problem with the engine especially in third gear or overdrive at highway speeds.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    Can you describe the shudder?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Are you sure it's not a misfire due to secondary ignotion breakdown you're feeling? If the plugs and wires haven't been changed for a while, replace them with ACDelco parts. Also look for carbon tracking down the coil towers.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    I asked when the shudder occurred and what it was like because my 93 LeSabre had a prom upgrade to correct the uneveness I'd feel when the torque converter was locked up and I was lightly accelerating or holding my own at 50 and up to maybe 65. I believe the chip delayed the lockup on the torque converter so you didn't feel uneveness from the engine due to EGR or other roughness.

    I had changed wires two times and plugs trying to get rid of the uneveness. Hadn't changed the EGR. Did change the PCV too. Still had it.

    Later cars had slip built into the TCC to soften the connection between the motor roughness and the wheels so you don't feel it if it occurs. My 98 has that "feature" which can have its own problems.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Later cars had slip built into the TCC to soften the connection between the motor roughness and the wheels so you don't feel it if it occurs. My 98 has that "feature" which can have its own problems.

    That would be a function of the torque converter clutch pulse width modulated solenoid, which ramps up the apply pressure and also allows controlled slip of the tcc clutch under limited load conditions to improve driveability and retain fuel economy. Or something like that.
  • ss396ss396 Posts: 2
    I had a coolant leak in my 02 bonneville immediately upon purchasing it (brand new). The leak was never enough that I saw any on groung under the car or that I needed to replace much fluid but I could smell it after I'd driven the car. Took car in the first time and they said it was a bad clamp on a hose and replaced it but the problem didn't go away. Took it back a month or so later and they determined I needed a new upper intake gasket. That fixed the problem and no problems since. (Well, with coolant anyway)
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    I think I have a problem with the programmer that supplies the vacuum to the various vacuum motors on the HVAC unit. The air conditioning vents don't blow. And from my testing, the motor for them isn't getting vacuum from the programmer.

    These are expensive. Are they reman units or a different source? Has anyone taken one apart and been successful in fixing the relay inside so it turns on the vacuum again like it's supposed to?

    This is a 98 LeSabre. So I'm willing to look for alternatives to a replacement. But air conditioning by using the defroster setting is less than great!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,528
    You should delete your email from the post so it doesn't get caught by the archiving bots and used for spamming.

    have you tried lifting the carpet and checking along edges to see if you can tell where the water is flowing in from?

    Garden hose? for testing. Air conditioner drain clogged causing overflow of condensate inside the car? If you're in a climate where you've been using the air, that's a possibility.

    You have to be under the car looking up to find the drain hose. Try running the air conditioning and seeing if there is a drip at the normal rate if you're in a more humid climate.
  • chasbvillechasbville Posts: 12
    Hi, I had this problem in my 94. It could be a badly installed replacement windshield, OR trapped water from the small area behind the right front wheel well. You need to clear out the drain hole here if the 2000 is the same as the 1992-99 and I suspect it is.
  • robotbob40robotbob40 Posts: 4
    car wont start has power just wont startif i turn on key and cross starter it runs for 3 seconds and then dies :confuse:
  • rtunertune Posts: 2
    Just in case no one has mentioned it, another engine seize up problem results from a faulty design of the intake manifold upper plenum. In 1995 it was redesigned and made from a composite plastic material. It is still used today -2005, I'm not sure if it has been re-designed to cure the following problem. There is a metal tube that protrudes up from the metal lower section of the intake manifold, thru the plastic upper plenum. This tube is part of the EGR system (exhaust gas recirculation system). It carries extremely HOT exhaust gases. Over time the heat from this metal tube degrades the plastic (burns thru). Since there are coolant passages on both side of the tube, a mere 1½ mm of plastic wall away, the engine can then start to "lose" coolant for no apparent reason and with no telltale signs other than periodic low coolant or periodic overheating. The eventual result can be engine lockup or catastrophic engine failure. Two good "sites" to view on this are: http://ken-co.com/manifold/default.htm and www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m3102/is_6_123/ai_n6083402 also look at www.naparts.com/WhatsNewDetail.cfm?StoryId=57 From what I've experienced & read this problem still exists. It can be fixed for as little as $300 if you're a mechanical person, but remember to also change oil and oil filter too!
  • rtunertune Posts: 2
    I have before & after photos of Ken-Co company's fixit repair of the upper/lower intake. How do I add them to this board?
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