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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sgmburkesgmburke Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 1992 Bonneville. Was come-and-go for over a year then went steady on - ran down the battery. The problem was a 12 Volt Relay next to the fuse box under the passenger side (under the glove box). There are several relays. You can find this one by opening and closing the door, and you can hear/feel it "clicking" (BTW You have to remove a cover on the 1992 model to get to the fusebox with the relays). Anyway I removed the relay and the problem stopped. Now I need to turn on the lights manually. I am searching on line for replacement relay. I found similar models for $10.00, but still looking for exact match. Good luck...

    Manufacture: Hella
    12V
    PN 4RD-960388-14
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    why not just get one at your local GM dealer... It probably doesn't cost much.
  • i recently bought a 1993 bonneville ssei. it had sat in a garage for about 2 years because of some electrical problems. The entire dashboard was not recieving any power and the motor was not running right, sputtering as you pressed the gas pedal. i have fixed the dashboard problem and it now has power and works correctly. 2 problems left.(1) It still runs poorly. Which im thinking has something to do with the gas sitting for 2 years, and am planning on replacing the fuel filter. (2) the heater or air conditioner turns on automatically when i turn the car on. pressing buttons on the air conditioning setting panel doesnt do anything. im guessing it is some more electrical problems but just asking.
  • I have a 94 Bonneville with the same problem. I've put two batteries and an alternator in. I had it to the dealer twice, couldn't find a problem. I had it on 4 diagnostic machines, couldn't find a problem. Found a new mechanic, he said it was the rear lighter. It was fine for a couple days, then dead again.
  • mstabbemstabbe Posts: 3
    I own a 1997 buick riv that started to loose coolant and seized up after removing the plugs and moisture it will turn over. I thought maybe i blew a head gasget but after reading your article i think not. i cannot find any info from the web sites you listed and I would sure like some help with what I need to do to make the repairs.
    Thanks
  • just bought a 1993 bonneville ssei from a friend. the car sat in a garage for a little less then a year because of electrical problems that he didnt want to deal with. The problem is a bunch of burnt/singed wires in the front right corner of the passenger side that lead up to the computer. has anyone ever had this problem? and if so do you know what the reason is? i know there is too much power coming through one or more of the wires obviously otherwise they wouldnt have been burnt. I was thinking about replacing the section of wires that are burnt myself but im not sure if that would be a smart idea. whether i should just pay someone to fix them or do them myself i do not know. anyone have any advice?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the 8th digit of your VIN is K (non-supercharged), the coolant level has been dropping, and there was coolant in one or more of the cylinders, it's almost guaranteed that the composite upper intake plenum has warped and requires replacement. After the repair, the oil and filter should be changed at least twice in short order as engine bearings do not like antifreeze. This info does not apply to VIN 1 (supercharged) engines.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Wires usually burn because of a short circuit in a component drawing too much current, or because of a wire pinched or insulation rubbed through, and shorted to ground. Unless you're able to determine the cause of the burned wires in the first place, there's a good chance you'll be replacing them all again when you power it up and fry everything again. Probably best to bite the bullet and take it to a good auto electrical shop unless the cause is obvious.
  • freddy111freddy111 Posts: 5
    My 96 SSE runs consistantly hot. The Dealershsip says that is normal. Also the tranny shifts poorly. The lack of performance info is dissapointing. There are performance modules on Ebay for $10 to $40. Are these any good. Any info would be helpful.
  • diegeldiegel Posts: 1
    recently, while driving, i went to use the power window switch and the car just stopped...it would not start for a few hours...this happened 2 other times in the last week, twice when i used the power window switch, and once when i had to use the wipers...it will crank, but not start...was told to replace fuel pump, which i did, but it didn't help...switched out the fuel pump relay, still to no avail...can anyone help me? i love my bonnie...it is a '96 SE, 3.8....help! thanks!
  • mndrewmndrew Posts: 1
    2000 Bonneville SSEi: Heated Seat Failure

    Can anyone help troubleshoot or point out an additional resource to identify the likely cause why my pilot's side heated seat won't work? Here's the indications:
    1. Clicking the pilot's seat heater switch to ON (HI), the switch light illuminates and appears to be on for about two seconds and then switches itself off.
    2. I can hear a single "click" sound coming from under the pilot's seat when the heater switch turns off automatically.

    I've eliminated the the seat heater switch and the fuses as being the problem. The co-pilot's seat heater works fine. I'm trying to figure out the item under the seat that is most likely causing the problem. Is there some sort of fuse under there, too?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    It should run about 90-95C (about 195-205F).

    Those eBay modules are essentially an 8 cent Radio Shack resistor which replaces the coolant temp or air intake temp sensor. Skewing the temp signal to colder than the engine actually is causes the PCM to over-fuel the engine. Net result is marginal power increase, overly rich fuel mixture, and poor fuel economy. If they worked, GM would have installed them when the car was built.
  • mstabbemstabbe Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info on the 3800 manifold plenum. I removed it and found it to be burned and deteriorated around the EGR tube that comes through the manifold. After removing the gasget I could see a good size hole. I would have never found this problem without help. I have ordered a new plenum from Northern Auto Parts and will install it friday. I am hoping there is no further damage to the engine. I will change oil a few times to make sure all coolant is out of the system. Thanks again for your guidance in repairing my 97 Riv.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    You might want to be sure you're getting the latest design (redesign) for the gasket. Check with your Buick dealer to see.
  • ashlemanashleman Posts: 1
    Good day to the kind souls who might rally to my aid. My recently acquired 2000 Bonneville with 18k miles is running at a steady 200 degrees. Most vehicles I have owned seem to operate at about 180 degrees. A call to the service manager at the local Pontiac shop indicated 200 is a regular operating temp. The manager did not say it was the "official" target temp. Is this accurate? Is this form maximum tolerances, performance, fuel economy? What will happen if I locate a 180 degree thermostat and swap it? Any advice appreciated! Tom
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    I assume your car has the driver information center readout that's digital.

    #1 would be how accurate is the reading from the gauge. It may be off by 2 degrees. My 03 LeSabre says it's running at 198 after the radiator water gets warmed and it starts getting it as recirculated water. That's moving and with or without air conditioning running. Stop at a light and the temp moves up to 205 in warm weather like SW Ohio has now.

    If you stop and idle while the car's been warmed up, the temp should go up to about 217 and then the fans kick in (air conditioning is off) lower it back to 205 and then kick off.

    I'd look for patterns of not opening while car has air moving through radiator or having the thermostat open too much for signs that it's time to change the thermostat.

    I would check to be sure the recall was done for the new bolts that hold the air intake to the manifold and had the sealer pellets put in. That should have been more than a year ago. I believe it should have a sticker on the radiator supports that gives the date, dealer and campaign number for the recall. If it's not there, check with a dealer to have them run the VIN number to see if it's been done. I believe any GM dealer can do the recall for you...
  • Just got my 94 Bonneville back again. The relay for the power antenna was drawing all the juice over night. I just hope this finally fixes the problem!
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    When warm, the temp gauge on my 2000 SSEi always indicates 200, slightly higher when idling in traffic on a hot day. I think the target temp is actually 195 (it is not 180) but the gauge isn't that accurate, and there is no digital readout. I'd say 200 is normal. The dealer can use a scan tool to get the actual temp that the computer sees.
  • gcashgcash Posts: 3
    there is deffinately a problem, I'm on my 4th and I have had the car since 1996. it's a 94 sse. The next time it goes I'm replacing it with an alt for an ssei I'm told they are better. and may need a minor alteratin to mount it.
  • bonne02bonne02 Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Thanks for the wealth of info here. I need help on replacing the rear brake caliper dust boot on my 2002 Bonneville that has a cut in it.

    Could I simply pull out the old boot then install the new boot? Or do I have to remove the caliper from the car?

    The repair manual says you have to remove the caliper completely to rebuild it. But from the instructions, it appears that you could possibly just remove the lower pin bolt on the caliper, swing the caliper up, and remove/re-install the dust boot.

    Any opinion or help would be greatly appreciated.
  • alane4alane4 Posts: 1
    Hoping some one may have had this problem - 92 bonneville, shows to have a code 44 that auto-zone says is a oxygen sensor and is burning lean, we have replace fuel filter, mass-air flow sensor and the oxygen sensor. It only does this when the out side temp. is at least 90 degrees or hotter and we have run at least 2 hours or more. At this time the best that I can do is top out at 35 to 40 mph. We can pull over and let it set for 45 minutes and we are good for another couple of hours. If anybody can help i would be grateful.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    I'd post in the
    leng05, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1551, 15 Jun 2005 4:52 pm
    discussion and hope that someone there, maybe Alcan, can tell you what is really wrong. The oxygen sensor is just an indicated problem. There most like is another single part that is not right. Before you hang a lot of parts, I'd see if thsi is a typical problem that someone can diagnose.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check fuel pressure, coolant temp sensor, and air intake temp sensor.
  • shawn7shawn7 Posts: 3
    A shop replaced the A/C compressor on our 1995 Bonneville. After the replacement, the "check engine" light displayed. The next day we returned the car to the shop, and they told us that their diagnostic equipment was not able to connect with our car, and to take it to the dealer. The day after that, the car quit running. We towed it back to the original shop, and they informed us that the engine was ruined from driving with no coolant. Would the shop have drained the coolant to replace the compressor? Thanks
  • steve36steve36 Posts: 1
    Bonneville 2000 stops dead without warning, except "compass calibration" alert comes up on the computerized screen. Can it be related to something in the vehicle, like golf clubs,/ paint can/ etc.?? Before it will start again, the compass calibration has to be rezoned.
  • trevor6trevor6 Posts: 3
    I have a new alternator, and new battery, and still not charging.
    My question is I'm trying to find which relay module controls the alternator.
  • azdinoazdino Posts: 9
    Normally a major a/c fix does not require a coolant removal/change. When was the last time you had checked the coolant level? Who knows, you could have gotten a leak or broken hose just the day before & never noticed it. I had a coolant PIPE from the autotrans split off the radiator just as I started a trip. I was lucky - noticed coolant on the driveway. I could probably have gone 10-20 miles with a loaded car & family before engine failure.
  • martytoomartytoo Posts: 1
    There are so many messages regarding the shudder that can occur when the torque converter goes in and out of lock up at low engine RPM that I don't know where to start.

    The first question I have is whether it makes sense to go to a transmission shop or to the dealer.

    Second, is it likely that the valve or solenoid need work? Some have also seemed to have luck with replacing spark plug wires and coil packs. If this is common then the dealer should be my first stop and if they can't fix the problem, they should, in theory, refer me to a transmission shop.

    What kills me is that I am the original owner of this 2000 SLE with 55,000 miles. The shudder just occurred within the past two weeks. But, I owned a 1992 LeSabre with almost the same condition. I should have learned my lesson.

    This is likely the last GM product I will ever own. (The list of defects is now between 15 and 20 items long and includes an intermittent cabin leak that I doubt will ever be cured.) Toyota will be the number one car manufacturer in the world. I am sad for GM but they need look in the mirror for answers. Too bad we can't fix our cars with some sort of smoke and mirror trickery.
  • rider401rider401 Posts: 7
    hi all ! just read a lot of everyone message and sometime it just feel scary.It`s a shame that GM dont take their customer more seriously.btw I am from Montreal.I bought a 1994 bonneville last fall but did not ride it this winter, was parked outside but was started and moved every week . I put in on the road 1 month ago and I have the rpm always stuck at 3000 on the idle(and park) . It does drink lot of gas and on red light and stop sign, it sure want to go.I cleaned the MAF sensor,(looks like 2 little resistor) like in post 1486 but did not work. I will try post 1482 from alcan. I check vacums and all looks OK .I also cleaned the inside of the throttle body.I sprayed WD40 at lots of spots with no results. I unhocked the vacum which goes to the brake booster and the car wanted to die. I was told that if you remove this vacum and that the car goes steady at 800-1000 rpm than the fault woul be a blown booster(brakes are a bit hard , but then again the ABS dont work) . I cleaned the idle air control and no changed as well.Two weeks ago it was going fine after a 10 minutes ride but the idle was not even. Now it is back to its 3000 rpm.There is a check engine sign , but per what I can see posted, it not a garanty that the right thing is often found. If someone can help, I would surely appreciate .I did not see often problems like this in the pages. Wish I could understand the whole relation betwenn all those sensors!!! Tks for the help.
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