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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair



  • Hello Everybody!!
      I'm a new member to the forum and this is my problem: My car makes a strange "CLUNK" sound coming from engine or transmission when the car is on parking only and when I increase the RPM to 3000 and let it drop to 1000 it make the sound like a pice of metal is hitting another metal. Also if I press and depress the accelerator quickly it also do Clunk sound. I have no problem at all when I drive the car at any speed. The first time this happen I put the car in drive and went blank for few seconds. I replaced the transmission fluid and filter and still doing the same. Thanks
  • Hello all, i'm new here! I really need some help, cause I have no idea what is wrong. I haven't checked the codes yet, but hopufully I can figure it out tomorrow. It starts fine and will idle no problem, but when I give it gas it starts bogging out. I can slowly give it gas and the rpm's will go up, but when I kick it to the floor it just bogs out and sometimes just dies. It has been sitting for about a year now, but I started it every once and a while.
  • I would say that your gas is hold and you are building up varnish in fuel system, I would suggest some fresh gas and fuel injector cleaner with some upper lubricant or a can of transmission fluid. Today' gasoline goes bad pretty quick. Wayne
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    I'd vote with wnewell. Put some good gas in it.
    I'd try to drain the old out first if you can siphon it out with a small tube. If it will run with new gas and fuel system cleaner (Techron's product is good) at idle, just let it idle to give some time to clean up the "varnish" that has formed. If that seems to help, a new set of plugs would be my next step, unless the old one look good and are recent.

    I'd try that for a couple of weeks starting it and running it. Then you may be down to a sensor not reading properly for temp and causing poor running mixture above idle.
  • Hello,

    I have a 97 Bonneville which just had the intake plenum replaced, thanks GM. Now that I have just invested $1000 plus I must keep this $4K car longer but have the following noises I hope someone can help me with. When I accelerate from a stop, and turn to the left I hear a growling sound, does not do it when I turn to the right. I also have a rattle in the transmission, it is predominant when the TCC is engaging, does anyone know where these noises come from, one more, when I accelerate from a stop I hear a pop sound comming from the driver side, it just started making this sound. I almost forgot TCC locks up in third gear at 38MPH, almost stalling the car, does anyone know if this is programming issue.

  • I have a 89 Bonneville SSE, and I am having some problems with the electrical system. It blows the fuse out that runs the turn signals, but not all the time. The windows are very slow in going up or down. If I run the lights the radio and the wipers at one time the car dies and needs a boost. I replaced the battery, still does it. So I am wondering if it is the alternator or the belt?
    Has anyone else had this problem? I love this car and do not want to get rid of it.
    thanks in advance
  • My 2000 SE makes a clicking noise when I turn the wheel at low speeds. The dealer claims that it is due to lack of lubrication in the intermediate steering shaft and wants $153 for the repair. With only 47000 miles I surprised that such a problem would crop up on a well maintained car. Any thoughts?
  • My 2000 ssei had the same problem, it is the steering shaft going in the magnasteer system. It is due to it being improperly lubricated. I had mine lubricated and it eliminated the problem. However i hear it is just a temporary fix and that you are better off replacing the entire shaft.
    My heated seat ended up being the element after 2 days at the dealership with them ordering different parts for them. I told them i suspected the element because it started buring my butt when i had it on, but as usual it falls on deaf ears. They wanted over $900 just for the parts. I told them i'd stick with the cold butt. I'm not very happy with the quality of this car. My 99 GTP was much more reliable.
  • Hi gang - I'm back after 2 years gone. My beloved Bonneville SE recently developed a very annoying HUM upon quick acceleration or at steady speeds at 65 MPH+ and or at 2000+ RPMs. Firestone suggested transmission problem - said take to dealer. Dealer "could not reproduce the problem." about a disappointment. This car is still on a 100K warranty, too (I'm at 56K+ right now). So hum is still there and bugging the hell outta me. Tranmission SEEMS to function well. Noise *almost* sounds like a muffler/exhaust hole (but I don't think so, hum *only* is apparent while stepping on the accelerator and at higher speeds) OR like car is not going into last gear and is "revving." Manual shifting out of Drive to third and back seems to indicate that car is moving into forth gear. Is it is possible last gear not being engaged (is there an even higher gear - an 'overdrive' that might not become engaged so she sounds like she's humming/revving too fast in a lower gear?)ALSO - I noticed at same time noise started that gas milage has PLUMMETTED by about 80 - 100 miles a tank! HELP!
  • This is a reply to #1198 'problems problems problems!' by jayare627 Nov 11, 2003 (9:22 pm)

    There was apparently a GM-ordered recall/repair (?) on sealants/gaskets(?) that might cause coolant to LEAK INTO THE ENGINE in Bonnevilles 2000 and perhaps newer. One of my dealerships did this for me recently (I had no trouble with this problem, however). Found out about this coolant loss issue when I took my 2000 Bonneville in for the annoying humming sound (see earlier message) which they 'couldn't reproduce' (and right now I'm trying to get info on that addressed on this bulletin board.)
  • What is your engine RPM @ while you are driving at 65mph, it almost sounds like your tourque converter isn't kicking in and is keeping your engine @ a higher RPM which would account for the decreased fuel mileage. but not sure that's an interesting problem i haven't heard of.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    You should be able to go 50 in 3rd gear at an even speed then touch the brake pedal and see the RPM rise as the converter unlocks.
    Then try the same in 4th at 60. The engine speeds up even on level roads with no great load on the engine.
  • Guys - thanks for the info.

    Can you (or anyone else) please clarify: if follow ideas in message #1214 and I do the 50mph, steady speed, in 3rd gear, then do 60mph steady speed, and step on the brake - will the spike in the tachometer you mentioned be temporary and any associated noise abate IF it's *functioning normally?* The hum (or drone) I am experiencing virtually always begins when I've achieved a steady higher speed (mostly highway, or higher-speed back roads) and if I let up momentarily on the accelerator it STOPS - then when immediately resuming acceleration the hum instantaneously begins again. I can usually make it start/stop just by goin off and on the accelerator while driving 60 mph/2000 - 2500 rpm, where this 'noise' really settles in to stay. Moving into neutral while coasting yet pressing the accelerator cannot reproduce the hum - nor can being in park and revving the engine - I have to be moving fairly fast.

    Best - Mike
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The torque converter unlocks when the throttle is closed. To check for TCC apply, maintain a constant highway speed and depress the brake pedal with your left foot enough to turn on the brake lights. This should unlock the TCC and cause in increase of about 300 RPM.
  • lkfinlkfin Posts: 2
    I have a 97 SSEI which I purchased at 65K miles. It's been a great car to drive, but I experienced a whining noise shortly after I bought it - which I thought might be the alternator or supercharger drive. The local Pontiac dealer informed me that it was the transmission, which I replaced at about 70K miles. That took care of the noise until a few days ago, and now - as I approach 105K miles - the whine seems to be back.

    Has anyone else experienced a similar problem, or have some insight as to what could be causing this noise?
  • My two very recent posts describe a strange HUM or whine, to be even more exact - in my 2000 Bonneville. Firestone Service guys said "transmission." Car is on 0-deductible warranty. Pontiac service said "can't reproduce the problem." Hum remains at higher speeds at 2000rpm+ so far.

    Have tried the torque converter test in message #1214 and #1216 - the spike mentioned when going a steady speed in 3rd and Drive and suddenly tapping the brake DOES NOT cause a momentary spike upward on my tachometer. Does this mean its not functioning properly?

    This hum you had (or whine) message #1217: was is constant or only at a certain speed/rpm? Please advise. I am NOW planning to get my problem diagnosed by a non-Pontiac/GM repair shop, and then go back to Pontiac and say FIX IT.
  • got in the car this afternoon (2000 SSEi) and the service engine soon light came on. Car has 55,430 on it and it just came on today. Is this something that comes on at a certain mileage or is there something actually wrong that sensors are picking up. Should I just disconnet the battery to reset the PCM?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    and it's on steady, read the owner's manual--
    but that's probably an emission control item
    for the fuel systems. The pressure check on the
    tank failed. I had one last year and it was a tube
    had rotten at the end where it connects into the
    charcoal canister. Then I had one last week, but it
    was the gas cap was not tight. It had been several days since I had put in gas. But apparently it had vibrated loose enough that there was not seal.
    Check you manual and see if the light solid means emissions. Flashing means something more important.
  • thanx imidazol97, the light is orange and it is on steady, not blinking or anything.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The powertain control module monitors various sensors on the engine, fuel, and exhaust systems. If it detects an out of range sensor signal it will turn on the Check Engine light and (usually) store a diagnostic trouble code.

    Occasional flash = intermittent problem.
    Steady light = hard failure.
    Flashing light = more serious problem which could cause engine or component damage.

    If the problem is eliminated, the Check Engine light may turn off after a given number of drive cycles but the trouble code will remain in the computer's memory. A scan tool or code reader is required to retrieve the codes. Disconnecting the battery will NOT erase the codes, but will erase any radio and seat/mirror presets.

    A loose gas cap is probably the most common cause of a Check Engine light, but certainly not the only cause. Auto parts outlets such as AutoZone will retrieve stored codes at no charge in the hope of selling parts.
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