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Pontiac Bonneville General Maintenance and Repair

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  • rustyulrustyul Posts: 2
    I'm changing out the rear brake pads on my 2000 Bonneville for the first time. I've done brake jobs on all types of vehicles before, but this is my first rear disc brake job. Can anybody tell me how to get the caliper piston to move back into it's bore? I've bent two different C-clamps (light and medium duty) and it hasn't budged. The parking brake cable has been removed and the actuating lever has been retracted. Am I missing a step? Anybody have any ideas?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    Have to check manual. But I seem to recall discussion that you have to rotate the piston counter-clock wise to move it back. Are the two holds in the front where a tool's two points would engage to rotate the piston?

    You might post in
    dunk, "Got a Quick, Technical Question?" #1233, 26 Mar 2005 9:04 am
    and see if Alcan responds. Youmight search the discussion for help with rear disc brakes on GM cars...
  • rustyulrustyul Posts: 2
    Well, I figured it out. As Imidazol97 stated, you do have to rotate the piston, but it's clockwise like tightening a screw...in fact, it is tightening a screw. I ended up removing the piston from the caliper because I couldn't figure it out, and there is a very low helix screw inside the piston. It mates with a female part inside the caliper. The indentations on the piston may be for a special tool, I used channel locks on the face of the piston, as it doesn't go into the bore. Also, the brake pads have a pin on the back side that fits into this recess.
    Thanks for the help. Oh, BTW, don't remove the emergency brake cable from the caliper. If you remove the hold downs for the cable and don't remove cable end, the caliper is free to remove and manipulate.
  • fredeefredee Posts: 1
    hello all, I'm a newbie here and hope someone can help me with my 1996 bonneville. 56000 miles on it and today I has the strong smell of rotten eggs and a hesitation that got worse and worse over my drive home. Now it hardly runs at all. Acceleration is near zero. Engine light is on and alternates between flashing and not flashing. Autozone scanned and got codes p0300 & p0336. Pretty generic codes I know but hoping somebody has had a similar problem. Can anybody shed some light?? thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

    Might be a combination of crankshaft position sensor and needing fresh plugs and wires, but could also be a problem with the ignition control module (under the coils). I'd start by replacing the plugs and wires (AC Delco only) if they're original. Here's some diagnostic info from GM:

    Diagnostic Aids
    An intermittent may be caused by a poor connection, rubbed through wire insulation or a wire broken inside the insulation. Check for the following conditions:

    Important
    Rotate the engine crankshaft until the 18X sensor has a voltage greater than 4 volts before performing any Diagnostic Aids.

    Poor connection at the PCM, ignition control module, or CKP sensor. Inspect the harness and connectors for improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
    Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, disconnect the PCM, turn the ignition on and observe a voltmeter connected to the 18X reference circuit at the PCM harness connector while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the ICM. A change in voltage will indicate the location of the malfunction.
    Incorrect harness routing near secondary ignition components.
    Secondary ignition wire(s) arcing to wiring harness. Check secondary ignition wires for carbon tracking or other signs of damage.
    Malfunctioning Ignition Coil. Remove the ignition coils and inspect the ignition control module and coils for cracks, carbon tracking, or other signs that indicate that the coil secondary circuit is arcing to the ICM or ICM wiring harness
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I don't have my info website available right now, but if I remember correctly there's a multiple ground point under the left front corner of the carpet. Try pulling the carpet back and checking for a loose or corroded ground.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    If it's the same as my 93 it has connection in the panel left of the parking brake pedal. I never was able to find it to check my 93's strange cut in cut out problem with air conditioning control defaulting to defrost with compressor running and power locks not working for a few minutes at a time then working again.

    There also was a ground connection to the left of the driver's seat under the carpet. That one was just where your left arm would hang straight down sitting in the driver's seat. There was a raised area in the carpet for about 8-10 inches for the box. That one was more suspect for me because it would get moisture into it from window open and getting in and out during rains/snow and moisture in carpet keeping that area humid.

    I never dug into there-my wife made me trade the car for a new Celebration in RED.
  • oldtonyoldtony Posts: 3
    THAT FIXED IT, I looked where you said and found a
    ground block just a little bit ahead of the door jam ,in a coduit wraped in tape ,I removed the bus plate and cleaned ,now everything works great.
    Thank You vary much...
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You supplied the key when you posted that the windows quit too. They're powered separately from the fuel pump, so that left the ground. Glad to hear you got it up and running again.
  • Hi
    For the past few months I have noticed coolant loss in my 2002 Bonneville. It empties the reservoir tank but the rad has never been low. I have checked oil for coolant but it is not obviously visible in the oil. I have had the throttle body nuts replaced etc. but that didn't solve the problem. I have had a lifter noise occur occasionally but it always went away quickly. But last week I started the car and the noise was really loud and the car started missing and running really rough. I noticed the oil pressure gauge fluctuating between normal mid point and the 3/4 mark. My mechanic checked the oil - no visible coolant - pulled the valve covers and said 3 or 4 of the lifters were collapsed. He put the car back together then started it - no noise - and parked it. When I arrived, he started it and noise was back! Anyone else have the same problem? GM assume any responsibility? The car has 113,000km on it.
    Thanks

    Frank

    p.s. I accidentally posted the above in 'Messages'
    section. Sorry
  • richrichrichrich Posts: 4
    I have just purchased a 93 bonneville and when i open the door the interior lights dont come on in the inside and the door locks dont work. I have check fuses and didnt see any blew and the lights on the inside comes on if u do it manually. Just wondering if anybody else have seen this problem?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Check for a broken wire in the conduit between the driver's door and the body.
  • My Bonnie is a 1996 SE, 3800 Series II engine w/ 59,600 miles. I have several problems and issues I'd like a little assistance with, if someone could help me out. I prefer to work on cars myself, and have an excellent assortment of tools, including special GM tools. I just haven't had to work on this car before, and I'm not up on its quirks.

    First: I have an intermittent "SECURITY" light. I've been told that it's due to a faulty "ignition module" or a wire or wires going bad in that module, which causes the key chip not to be fully recognised. The car starts on the first try 99.99% of the time, but there's been five occasions that I had to turn the key 30-40-50 times or more to get it to start (usually it's at the worst possible time, like in a bad neighbourhood or when I HAVE to be somewhere). What I'd like to know is what EXACTLY is the problem, what part or parts require replacing, and where I can find repair/replacement information. Also, if it's just a bad wire or wires, can I resolder or replace just the wires? Will this screw up the resistance of the security system's electrics?

    Second: I have an intermittent "SES" light (so the dealership says, I call it "check engine" light, because that's what the light says). I do not remember the error code, but I was told it was due to a faulty oxygen sensor. I replaced it, but the same problem still occurred. When I took it to the dealer, they said that I installed the "wrong brand" of sensor - but didn't tell me the right brand. I believe the one I put in was a Bosch. What brand of sensor should I get, and where can I get it cheapest?

    Third: My car has the AM/FM stereo head unit w/ CD player & EQ. The radio works fine, but whenever I try to play a CD it skips so badly that it's unlistenable - I have to eject it immediately. Dealership told me to "clean the laser lens", which I've done 20 times - literally. Still same problem. Is this fixable? If I have to replace the head unit, I do not know if the "theftlock" code has ever been entered (I haven't done it, but it was a used car when I bought it). Is there a procedure I can use, or someone I can call, to clear out any possible code on this?

    Fourth: I have the 60,000 mile checkup to do now. Things I plan to work on: changing brake pads/shoes, oil & filter, cleaning fuel injection system, trans filter, gasket, flush, & refill, check & replace spark plugs & wires if necessary, check timing belt/chain (don't know what it has), replace fuel filter. As this is my first time working on this car, I'd appreciate some tips on the above - best brands of parts to use, procedures, etc. Is the injection system cleanable at home? What's the easiest method to de/repressurize the fuel system? If I can't clean the injection system myself, can I just take the fuel rails & etc. to a shop for cleaning, at a reduced expense? What's the correct solvent(s) to use to clean these injectors & other items, if it is home cleanable?

    Fifth: I have a couple of issues with my front doors. The drivers' door's key cylinder has fallen into the bottom of the door (broken clip or ?), and the outside power mirror shakes & wobbles during driving, making it VERY difficult to see in the mirror. The passenger door sticks quite a bit trying to open it - including the door handle. I've tried lubing the weatherstripping seals, and the door handle (what I could get to, anyway). This helps for about a week, then it starts sticking again. Suggestions on the sticking door? Anyone know what part(s) I might need for the driver's mirror and the key cylinder? Also, where do I get replacement water deflector plastic and adhesive if necessary, and what do I need to ask for?

    Sixth, and last (for now): I have several large spots on my paint (middle of front roof, both rear corners of roof, both front corners of trunklid) that have a burned, oxidized appearance. Is there a method I can use myself, short of repainting the entire car, to restore these areas? I've thought of using "FLITZ for paint", either by hand or on a random orbit buffer on low speed. I am not very experienced with painting cars, but I do know a little bit. I'd like to avoid the expense of repainting the entire car, as I'm on a limited, fixed income - but I'd still like to be proud of my car's appearance again. These "spots" started to appear about four months after I bought the car (at a reputable dealer, where family worked at the time), and it was waxed & taken care of. Any suggestions here?

    I greatly appreciate any and all assistance with these issues. There just doesn't seem to be a lot of info on Bonnevilles out there!
  • I was told by mechanic that the lifter problem in my '02 Bonneville could be a result of a flaky oil relief valve. Has anyone else heard of this before?

    Frank
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    The security light might be deterioration of the wires at the ignition key unit. My 93 had the light come on but the car kept running and starting. The dealer replaced the switch and wires. The strands inside the wire were breaking one by one and that changes the resistance measuring the chip in the key. He said eventually the resistance would be off and the security would block starting the car.

    The breaking of the wires was caused by putting the tilt wheel up and down. I always put it all the way up and all the way down when I got in. ON my newer cars, I don't put the wheel up and down as much. Want to avoid the $200 cost... the 93 had 100K + on it when that happened.

    As for cleaning the injection system, I'd just use a couple of tanks with Techron fuel system cleaner added. Buy it at Advanced Auto or Meijers discount stores or whereevere. Run tank nearly empty. Put in Techron, add enough gallons to equal what it says the size bottle is for (12 and 20 sizes???) and run till nearly empty and repeat. Do not so more than two cycles. Use premium brand fuel when filling the car up to the 12 gal. or 20 gal.

    That should solve many problems unless you've got a major injector problem.
  • Mine dies, and doesn't start again for about an half hour or so. Runs fine, then when it dies, it doesn't start again for a half and hour or so.. Smell gas, but no spark it seems. Over and over, this happens, please, when you figure out your problem, let me know. I put it on a computer to show my EMG modulator is bad on my 89bonneville. Getting a new one tomorrow. 300bucks, just for the part. I hope it's it... Good luck.
  • richrichrichrich Posts: 4
    Where is that at?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Between the front of the door and the body. The wires flex every time the door's opened and closed, can lead to wires breaking inside the rubber covering.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    They are inside a flexible rubber tube about 1.5 inches in diameter. I _believe_ you can pull and twist on an end of that tube and get to the wires inside the bundle.

    Testing each wire for continuity would require a needle poked in at each end of the wire and check for resistance of 0 ohms.

    Out of curiosity, do the interior lights come on if one of the other doors is opened? Or do they just work with the dash switch? If they don't work with another door, would the problem be in just the driver's door? Would it keep all doors from working?

    I have a 93 LeSabre manual. I could try to check for color code on the wire in the bundle that are related to door locks and interior light grounding.
  • richrichrichrich Posts: 4
    They just work with the dash switch. What about if the oil gauge on the dash keeps moving around?
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