Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Escape Engine and Performance Problems

I picked-up my car from the shop yesterday (flat tire) it drove fine until I got on the freeway, then started to rev at 2500+. In park and neutral it's over 5500, the mechanic I usually go to is on vacation until the 26th and we're expecting snow. Any chance this is an easy fix I can take care of? Thanks for your help! Tiffiny
«1

Comments

  • I have a 4 cylinder. Check engine light came on. Replaced EGR valve. Light came back on, code again says EGR.Nowwhat could it be.
  • bernie17bernie17 Posts: 1
    hi i bought a 2001 escape, at the auction, it was running rough would not stay running and made a knocking sound, drained oil and found only 2 qts in pan, replaced engine, with like part, the part # on the valve cover and the calibration # match. i started up engine and let it run. at about 5 mins it started missing, little by little, cyl 1 went, and then 4, and then 6, and 5 intermitt comes and goes, there are no codes in pcm memory, koer test or koeo on demand. and the front cat or left side of engine turns glowing red and the back or right side of engine cat glows but not as bad as the front. i have switched out all the injs with the old engine and same thing, mas air flow meter, same even replaced the front cat, no change, the power balance is exactly the same every time, long fuel trim 1 is -1, and longfuel trim is -8, which coincides with the runs rough. it is pretty much doing the same thing as before i replaced the engine without the knock. so this is runnning way to rich or the fuel,is going right through without being burned and the cat are doing they're job. everything pretty much got replaced with the engine except air mass flow sensor switch with a brand new one and PCM which is the only thing i have not switched, i did reprogram however. no change. i have ruled out timing/engine due to it did this before enigne switch, any suggestions?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I am no mechanic, but I would definately replace the PCM with a new or factory reman unit. You may have re-programmed it but it does not mean it is working properly. If you say that it is running to rich and you have replaced all the possible culprits then the only thing left that controls fuel mixture and what not is the PCM.

    I bet you the PCM is doing all the fuss. JMO!
  • inby5inby5 Posts: 2
    I've replaced it once and I don't know what is causing it to burn up, but it burned up within five minutes after I ran it. Any suggestions as to what is causing it?
  • inby5inby5 Posts: 2
    it was the catlic convertor stoped up
  • lg313lg313 Posts: 1
    I have a 6 cyl. Every time the engine bay gets humid the engine starts missing like crazy. Any help is appreciated. :mad:
  • 55215521 Posts: 1
    2.3 4 cyl knocks at 1800 rpm 1 machanic said need new engine another says it's in the head I need to know which any ideas
  • Bought my 04 escape two months ago and had no problems, until yesterday. Drove it around town then got in started it and it died. Battery fine, starter fine, turns over but when i take foot off gas, it dies. Had it towed to mechanic and it started again. I read that the heat, was around 100, could cause this. If so what is the fix? The acm? I would like to stop this problem before it gets worse, as i drive this vehicle on long trips. Thanks.
  • sambo10sambo10 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    stop at a red light or stop sign, the motor would die etc. i put a new I AC valve and cleaned the throtal body , now when you start it it idles up for a second then back down . you can rev it up to say 2500 rpm and let off and it comes down slow like you haven't let off the gas all the way 2005 escape 2.3 and no codes from com.
  • jomcnjomcn Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    This is in reply to tiffinymariha from '07 Did you ever find out what was wrong with your car? I had the same thing happen with my '01 Mazda Tribute last year. The dealer couldn't find the problem at first and then found it - after about a week and replacing other parts. Turned out to be something with the master computer which they had to replace. It cost approximately $4000. Well, it started to rev again this past month and when I brought it in to the dealer this time - still under warranty - I was told that the transmission was shot, there was nothing they could do and they had a salesman call me to see if I wanted to trade it in and get a new car. It didn't feel like the transmission so I brought it to my local mechanic who told me the transmission was fine.
  • After 40MPH the Escape doesn't seem to be downshifting. If driven over a long ramp I can hear the engine rev up but the car doesn't respond as usual. Driven slowly, you can barely notice any problems but as soon as the Escape enters a highway, it struggles. Any hints?

    thanks in advance
  • About a year ago my Escape started to idle a little rough. It has 84,000 mile on it, V6. I ignored it until recently when it started to run worse (high idle when starting in cold weather, unsteady idle, stalling occasionally, but only happen below 1K RPM). I replaced the intake and plenum gaskets and changed plugs and PCV valve since I had it tore down. I thought that took care of the problem. I run around town for 2 days and thought it was fixed. Then I took it on a 12 hour turnpike trip. After getting started the engine seemed to be sluggish. We kept going. I knew I had a problem. 8 hours into the trip I heard a whooshing noise under the engine. The EGR valve had a hole blown in the side. I put a piece of metal to block off the intake from leaking. It ran fine after that. An hour later I found a new EGR valve and replaced it. It started running sluggish again. We finally reached our destination. I got a can of ether to check for vacuum leaks and found none. On our way back home it ran very sluggish but I was able to struggle and get it into OD and keep it at bout 65 MPH. When I went up a hill it would slip back into Drive and slow down to about 45-50 by the time I got to the top of the hill. 8 hours later on our way home the same thing happen... EGR valve blew a hole in it. I by passed it once again (closed off with piece of metal between intake and EGR valve). Again it ran fine after that for the last 4 hours. The only problem is that it leaks exhaust out of the broken EGR valve. What could be causing this? I have read of others with the same problem but the answers were not clear how they finally got it fixed. I assume the engine was running rich. Could unburned fuel be coming back to the EGR and causing it to heat up? The funny thing is that it runs great with the EGR disabled. I don't know if maybe the Cat is plugged. I put my hand over the tailpipe and it seems to have quite a bit of pressure coming out so I don't think that is my problem either. I did notice a little bit of exhaust coming from just before the Cat (the mesh wire covering 1 foot of the exhaust pipe just before the Cat). The EGR problem started happening after I changed the manifold gaskets. I've also heard maybe the MAF sensor? Any input would be appreciated.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Catalyst has failed, "crumbled", and is blocking the exhaust.
  • Bought 2011 Ford Escape. Had for 3 weeks. When I'm stopped at stop light, foot on brake, rpms drop to almost 1 on rpm scale and vehicle steering wheel and front seats shake. Once I drive off, it's fine. Took it in to ford and they said I have to live with it, it's normal. It's FWD XLT 4 cylinder. Anyone had these problems or know anything about this? d.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 551
    I would find a new Ford dealer or at least talk to the service manager. This is not normal and you don't have to live with it.
  • Thanks to bdyment for replying. I did take it to a different ford dealership and they said the same thing. I asked for paperwork to see what they checked and they wouldn't provide it to me. I also talked to the service manager at the dealership I purchased it from and he said "live with it, pretend it isn't happening and just drive it". He didn't even have it checked out. I'm going to call the Sales Manager tomorrow and see if I can get anywhere with him. Will keep you posted.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not knowing the magnitude of the "shake" I'll volunteer this information.

    4 cylinder engines, I4 engines, are notorious for low speed vibration. Many "upscale" manufacturers use something called a "balance shaft" to help smooth out these vibrations. Obviously the lower the idle speed is the worse these vibrations will be felt within the cabin.

    Since two separate dealers have said the level you are expereincing is normal I'm afraid what is, is.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 551
    The idle speed seems way too slow. I have driven a few late model Ford 4 cyl. including an Escape and none of them idle down like you say. Have a service person go for a ride with you. Something isn't right.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...idle speed seems way too slow.."

    Not that I disagree with you, but....

    2011 Escape....

    Just how slow is too slow...?

    We have all adapted over time and experience to an idle speed of ~800RPM.

    But in truth what if the engine could be kept running, idling, at as little as 100RPM..in favor of improved FE....??

    The new electronic engine controls might well be able to do that.

    And what, who's is to suffer...?

    Engine lubrication/oil pump...no.

    Engine cooling/water pump...no.

    Power stearing...(electric..?) .no.

    A/C....no.

    Battery charge...no.

    And coming soon....automatic engine start/stop......or should that be stop/start...??
  • Hi. It's idling at the notch between 0 and 1... so I would say 500 rpms or so, maybe 600 rpms at the most? (hope that makes sense) I will keep pushing on this. I called Ford Customer Support and it was suggested I talk to the General Manager of the dealer now. Will keep you posted. This is stupid that I have to even go through this.
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I had a 2010 4 cyl Escape and never had that problem, but had lots of other problems, brakes, transmission, etc, rear hoot noise when accelerating from a stop. I have since gotten rid of it

    I believe the 2011 is just the same as the 2010.

    Not up to the standards of my 2005 Escape which had rear disc brakes and a full size spare mounted on a rim that matched what was on the other 4 wheels.
  • Update on my 2011 Ford Escape Idling Rough - apparently most of these vehicles run rough. I tested another brand new vehicle and it idled worse than mine, and the shop foreman said I was lucky mine ran the way it did. I'm surprised Ford has not done anything about this. Obviously not many people have complained very loud about this problem. I was told I have to live with it, so I will. Thanks to all that gave advice.
  • Found my problem. The rear cat was plugged. A garage mechanic friend of mine took it out and put the pedal to the floor. It would not go over 35 mph and the rpm was at 4000. I thought he was going to blow it up, but all that happen was my new EGR valve blew again. When he noticed it ran better, after it blew, he knew there must be a blockage in the exhaust. He said the exhaust was being forced so strong through EGR valve that it got so hot, it melted and the extra pressure blew a hole in it. When we took the cat off you could see some light through it, but it obviously was not enough. We ran a pipe down the middle of it and now it runs great! Idles great. Gas mileage is about 23 now on the highway doing 70-75 mph. I put my foot into it and it screams down the road, never ran better. Hope this helps someone!
  • hackattack5hackattack5 Posts: 315
    I have a 2011 Ford Escape. it is a 4 cylinder 2.5 liter automatic. it idles at 800 RPM in neutral and 700 RPM in drive. It does not shake or idle rough. When you wanted to check a different unit on the lot to see how it idled did you pick the unit or did the dealer pick it? I bet if you went to a different dealer they could fix it by adjusting your idle speed. Some dealers spend more time trying to tell you its normal instdead of fixing the problem.
  • angie15angie15 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problems with my Ford Escape. I took it to the dealership and they charged me $1100 to replaces coils and spark plugs. When this didn't fix the problem they told me my Cat Conventers are plugged and the cost to replace will be $1800. What did you end up paying for the repairs? Can anyone offer any input on this? Thanks.
  • Hi. Thanks for the response. Of course, the dealer picked the vehicle, twice. They are telling me they can't adjust the idle speed. I don't get it. I went to 2 separate dealers and was told the same thing. The vehicle I test drove did not do this, or I would have never picked the Escape. I have 2,000kms on it now and nothing has changed. Any suggestions at this point?
  • perainoperaino Posts: 1
    Was it the rear or the front rear cat that was plugged?
  • OK 2001 ford escape 6cyl. a few years ago coil blew out of hole, seemed spark plug threading was sripped seemed the idiot that owned car before me had stripped the threading,so after missfires and having bad luck after that, put a heli-coil in. new plug and coils. Evry so often when it feels like it, cr statrs misfiring and i feel like i am driving a choo choo train while sitting at a light, cars seems to "chugg" and go into power surge, gas milage had dropped down to 18 mpg. Not sur what to do, doesnt matter if its humid , wet , sun shining,,, i doesnt matter. The kicker is also as often as it does misfire there is still no code that shows and no check engine light comes on!! This car needs to last me another two years...
  • Okay so about 2months ago I had the alternator replaced in my 04 Ford Escape. It was only charging about 50%. gauges were jumping around, and it was missing. I had it checked and the code came back #5 plug was not firing. So after the alternator the gauges are still jumping around, however the alternator is charging to full potential. Now this past week I took my ford into the shop for new plugs. After the plugs were put into the car, it was running alot rougher than before. and 2 cylinders were not firing. all the pressures were checked and where they were supposed to be. Next stop was fuel injectors. After new injectors put in no change. I went to pick up the Ford because I had run out of money for this round and it now was shaking really bad, I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal at stop lights to keep it running, and the cat was glowing a cherry red. I was on my way home and lost ALL acceleration and smoke was rolling out of the hood. Now it sits at another shop with cylinders 4 and 6 dead. the front cat had fallen apart and clogged the cat in the back. I am really confused and do not know what could have happened since before all this the trouble was with #5. Does anyone know that if the O rings have been damaged or if there is internal damage, how costly this is?? We owe way too much money on this car and it is our only transportation. I NEED HELP!! I AM RUNNING OUT OF IDEAS!!!!!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm very very concerned about the mechanic you are using. First, the alternator would have nothing whatever to do with the misfire in the engine. It's wierd you would be so conversant with the catalytic converters, glowing, front and back, etc., but not know that - whatever....

    If the cat was glowing, the exhaust wsa horribly rich, meaning a serious overload of fuel in the combustion chambers, more than just a 1 plug misfire would cause. So, it has to be fuel related, as in the injector computer is likely opening the injectors all fully, flooding the engine.

    Again, very concerned the mechanic can't figure this out. If he has now ruined two cylinder's compression, he has ruined your engine. You may have a cause of action against him if you take him to court. Not knowing who you use - I can't say, but the problem seems clear from here - can't understand how the mechanic can't see that from under your hood.

    Best of luck - try someone else! :surprise:
«1
Sign In or Register to comment.