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Ford Escape Engine and Performance Problems

I picked-up my car from the shop yesterday (flat tire) it drove fine until I got on the freeway, then started to rev at 2500+. In park and neutral it's over 5500, the mechanic I usually go to is on vacation until the 26th and we're expecting snow. Any chance this is an easy fix I can take care of? Thanks for your help! Tiffiny
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Comments

  • I have a 4 cylinder. Check engine light came on. Replaced EGR valve. Light came back on, code again says EGR.Nowwhat could it be.
  • bernie17bernie17 Posts: 1
    hi i bought a 2001 escape, at the auction, it was running rough would not stay running and made a knocking sound, drained oil and found only 2 qts in pan, replaced engine, with like part, the part # on the valve cover and the calibration # match. i started up engine and let it run. at about 5 mins it started missing, little by little, cyl 1 went, and then 4, and then 6, and 5 intermitt comes and goes, there are no codes in pcm memory, koer test or koeo on demand. and the front cat or left side of engine turns glowing red and the back or right side of engine cat glows but not as bad as the front. i have switched out all the injs with the old engine and same thing, mas air flow meter, same even replaced the front cat, no change, the power balance is exactly the same every time, long fuel trim 1 is -1, and longfuel trim is -8, which coincides with the runs rough. it is pretty much doing the same thing as before i replaced the engine without the knock. so this is runnning way to rich or the fuel,is going right through without being burned and the cat are doing they're job. everything pretty much got replaced with the engine except air mass flow sensor switch with a brand new one and PCM which is the only thing i have not switched, i did reprogram however. no change. i have ruled out timing/engine due to it did this before enigne switch, any suggestions?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I am no mechanic, but I would definately replace the PCM with a new or factory reman unit. You may have re-programmed it but it does not mean it is working properly. If you say that it is running to rich and you have replaced all the possible culprits then the only thing left that controls fuel mixture and what not is the PCM.

    I bet you the PCM is doing all the fuss. JMO!
  • inby5inby5 Posts: 2
    I've replaced it once and I don't know what is causing it to burn up, but it burned up within five minutes after I ran it. Any suggestions as to what is causing it?
  • inby5inby5 Posts: 2
    it was the catlic convertor stoped up
  • lg313lg313 Posts: 1
    I have a 6 cyl. Every time the engine bay gets humid the engine starts missing like crazy. Any help is appreciated. :mad:
  • 55215521 Posts: 1
    2.3 4 cyl knocks at 1800 rpm 1 machanic said need new engine another says it's in the head I need to know which any ideas
  • Bought my 04 escape two months ago and had no problems, until yesterday. Drove it around town then got in started it and it died. Battery fine, starter fine, turns over but when i take foot off gas, it dies. Had it towed to mechanic and it started again. I read that the heat, was around 100, could cause this. If so what is the fix? The acm? I would like to stop this problem before it gets worse, as i drive this vehicle on long trips. Thanks.
  • sambo10sambo10 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    stop at a red light or stop sign, the motor would die etc. i put a new I AC valve and cleaned the throtal body , now when you start it it idles up for a second then back down . you can rev it up to say 2500 rpm and let off and it comes down slow like you haven't let off the gas all the way 2005 escape 2.3 and no codes from com.
  • jomcnjomcn Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    This is in reply to tiffinymariha from '07 Did you ever find out what was wrong with your car? I had the same thing happen with my '01 Mazda Tribute last year. The dealer couldn't find the problem at first and then found it - after about a week and replacing other parts. Turned out to be something with the master computer which they had to replace. It cost approximately $4000. Well, it started to rev again this past month and when I brought it in to the dealer this time - still under warranty - I was told that the transmission was shot, there was nothing they could do and they had a salesman call me to see if I wanted to trade it in and get a new car. It didn't feel like the transmission so I brought it to my local mechanic who told me the transmission was fine.
  • After 40MPH the Escape doesn't seem to be downshifting. If driven over a long ramp I can hear the engine rev up but the car doesn't respond as usual. Driven slowly, you can barely notice any problems but as soon as the Escape enters a highway, it struggles. Any hints?

    thanks in advance
  • About a year ago my Escape started to idle a little rough. It has 84,000 mile on it, V6. I ignored it until recently when it started to run worse (high idle when starting in cold weather, unsteady idle, stalling occasionally, but only happen below 1K RPM). I replaced the intake and plenum gaskets and changed plugs and PCV valve since I had it tore down. I thought that took care of the problem. I run around town for 2 days and thought it was fixed. Then I took it on a 12 hour turnpike trip. After getting started the engine seemed to be sluggish. We kept going. I knew I had a problem. 8 hours into the trip I heard a whooshing noise under the engine. The EGR valve had a hole blown in the side. I put a piece of metal to block off the intake from leaking. It ran fine after that. An hour later I found a new EGR valve and replaced it. It started running sluggish again. We finally reached our destination. I got a can of ether to check for vacuum leaks and found none. On our way back home it ran very sluggish but I was able to struggle and get it into OD and keep it at bout 65 MPH. When I went up a hill it would slip back into Drive and slow down to about 45-50 by the time I got to the top of the hill. 8 hours later on our way home the same thing happen... EGR valve blew a hole in it. I by passed it once again (closed off with piece of metal between intake and EGR valve). Again it ran fine after that for the last 4 hours. The only problem is that it leaks exhaust out of the broken EGR valve. What could be causing this? I have read of others with the same problem but the answers were not clear how they finally got it fixed. I assume the engine was running rich. Could unburned fuel be coming back to the EGR and causing it to heat up? The funny thing is that it runs great with the EGR disabled. I don't know if maybe the Cat is plugged. I put my hand over the tailpipe and it seems to have quite a bit of pressure coming out so I don't think that is my problem either. I did notice a little bit of exhaust coming from just before the Cat (the mesh wire covering 1 foot of the exhaust pipe just before the Cat). The EGR problem started happening after I changed the manifold gaskets. I've also heard maybe the MAF sensor? Any input would be appreciated.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Catalyst has failed, "crumbled", and is blocking the exhaust.
  • Bought 2011 Ford Escape. Had for 3 weeks. When I'm stopped at stop light, foot on brake, rpms drop to almost 1 on rpm scale and vehicle steering wheel and front seats shake. Once I drive off, it's fine. Took it in to ford and they said I have to live with it, it's normal. It's FWD XLT 4 cylinder. Anyone had these problems or know anything about this? d.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    I would find a new Ford dealer or at least talk to the service manager. This is not normal and you don't have to live with it.
  • Thanks to bdyment for replying. I did take it to a different ford dealership and they said the same thing. I asked for paperwork to see what they checked and they wouldn't provide it to me. I also talked to the service manager at the dealership I purchased it from and he said "live with it, pretend it isn't happening and just drive it". He didn't even have it checked out. I'm going to call the Sales Manager tomorrow and see if I can get anywhere with him. Will keep you posted.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not knowing the magnitude of the "shake" I'll volunteer this information.

    4 cylinder engines, I4 engines, are notorious for low speed vibration. Many "upscale" manufacturers use something called a "balance shaft" to help smooth out these vibrations. Obviously the lower the idle speed is the worse these vibrations will be felt within the cabin.

    Since two separate dealers have said the level you are expereincing is normal I'm afraid what is, is.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    The idle speed seems way too slow. I have driven a few late model Ford 4 cyl. including an Escape and none of them idle down like you say. Have a service person go for a ride with you. Something isn't right.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "...idle speed seems way too slow.."

    Not that I disagree with you, but....

    2011 Escape....

    Just how slow is too slow...?

    We have all adapted over time and experience to an idle speed of ~800RPM.

    But in truth what if the engine could be kept running, idling, at as little as 100RPM..in favor of improved FE....??

    The new electronic engine controls might well be able to do that.

    And what, who's is to suffer...?

    Engine lubrication/oil pump...no.

    Engine cooling/water pump...no.

    Power stearing...(electric..?) .no.

    A/C....no.

    Battery charge...no.

    And coming soon....automatic engine start/stop......or should that be stop/start...??
  • Hi. It's idling at the notch between 0 and 1... so I would say 500 rpms or so, maybe 600 rpms at the most? (hope that makes sense) I will keep pushing on this. I called Ford Customer Support and it was suggested I talk to the General Manager of the dealer now. Will keep you posted. This is stupid that I have to even go through this.
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