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Ford Escape Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    I had a 2010 4 cyl Escape and never had that problem, but had lots of other problems, brakes, transmission, etc, rear hoot noise when accelerating from a stop. I have since gotten rid of it

    I believe the 2011 is just the same as the 2010.

    Not up to the standards of my 2005 Escape which had rear disc brakes and a full size spare mounted on a rim that matched what was on the other 4 wheels.
  • Update on my 2011 Ford Escape Idling Rough - apparently most of these vehicles run rough. I tested another brand new vehicle and it idled worse than mine, and the shop foreman said I was lucky mine ran the way it did. I'm surprised Ford has not done anything about this. Obviously not many people have complained very loud about this problem. I was told I have to live with it, so I will. Thanks to all that gave advice.
  • Found my problem. The rear cat was plugged. A garage mechanic friend of mine took it out and put the pedal to the floor. It would not go over 35 mph and the rpm was at 4000. I thought he was going to blow it up, but all that happen was my new EGR valve blew again. When he noticed it ran better, after it blew, he knew there must be a blockage in the exhaust. He said the exhaust was being forced so strong through EGR valve that it got so hot, it melted and the extra pressure blew a hole in it. When we took the cat off you could see some light through it, but it obviously was not enough. We ran a pipe down the middle of it and now it runs great! Idles great. Gas mileage is about 23 now on the highway doing 70-75 mph. I put my foot into it and it screams down the road, never ran better. Hope this helps someone!
  • hackattack5hackattack5 Posts: 315
    I have a 2011 Ford Escape. it is a 4 cylinder 2.5 liter automatic. it idles at 800 RPM in neutral and 700 RPM in drive. It does not shake or idle rough. When you wanted to check a different unit on the lot to see how it idled did you pick the unit or did the dealer pick it? I bet if you went to a different dealer they could fix it by adjusting your idle speed. Some dealers spend more time trying to tell you its normal instdead of fixing the problem.
  • angie15angie15 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problems with my Ford Escape. I took it to the dealership and they charged me $1100 to replaces coils and spark plugs. When this didn't fix the problem they told me my Cat Conventers are plugged and the cost to replace will be $1800. What did you end up paying for the repairs? Can anyone offer any input on this? Thanks.
  • Hi. Thanks for the response. Of course, the dealer picked the vehicle, twice. They are telling me they can't adjust the idle speed. I don't get it. I went to 2 separate dealers and was told the same thing. The vehicle I test drove did not do this, or I would have never picked the Escape. I have 2,000kms on it now and nothing has changed. Any suggestions at this point?
  • perainoperaino Posts: 1
    Was it the rear or the front rear cat that was plugged?
  • OK 2001 ford escape 6cyl. a few years ago coil blew out of hole, seemed spark plug threading was sripped seemed the idiot that owned car before me had stripped the threading,so after missfires and having bad luck after that, put a heli-coil in. new plug and coils. Evry so often when it feels like it, cr statrs misfiring and i feel like i am driving a choo choo train while sitting at a light, cars seems to "chugg" and go into power surge, gas milage had dropped down to 18 mpg. Not sur what to do, doesnt matter if its humid , wet , sun shining,,, i doesnt matter. The kicker is also as often as it does misfire there is still no code that shows and no check engine light comes on!! This car needs to last me another two years...
  • Okay so about 2months ago I had the alternator replaced in my 04 Ford Escape. It was only charging about 50%. gauges were jumping around, and it was missing. I had it checked and the code came back #5 plug was not firing. So after the alternator the gauges are still jumping around, however the alternator is charging to full potential. Now this past week I took my ford into the shop for new plugs. After the plugs were put into the car, it was running alot rougher than before. and 2 cylinders were not firing. all the pressures were checked and where they were supposed to be. Next stop was fuel injectors. After new injectors put in no change. I went to pick up the Ford because I had run out of money for this round and it now was shaking really bad, I had to keep my foot on the gas pedal at stop lights to keep it running, and the cat was glowing a cherry red. I was on my way home and lost ALL acceleration and smoke was rolling out of the hood. Now it sits at another shop with cylinders 4 and 6 dead. the front cat had fallen apart and clogged the cat in the back. I am really confused and do not know what could have happened since before all this the trouble was with #5. Does anyone know that if the O rings have been damaged or if there is internal damage, how costly this is?? We owe way too much money on this car and it is our only transportation. I NEED HELP!! I AM RUNNING OUT OF IDEAS!!!!!!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I'm very very concerned about the mechanic you are using. First, the alternator would have nothing whatever to do with the misfire in the engine. It's wierd you would be so conversant with the catalytic converters, glowing, front and back, etc., but not know that - whatever....

    If the cat was glowing, the exhaust wsa horribly rich, meaning a serious overload of fuel in the combustion chambers, more than just a 1 plug misfire would cause. So, it has to be fuel related, as in the injector computer is likely opening the injectors all fully, flooding the engine.

    Again, very concerned the mechanic can't figure this out. If he has now ruined two cylinder's compression, he has ruined your engine. You may have a cause of action against him if you take him to court. Not knowing who you use - I can't say, but the problem seems clear from here - can't understand how the mechanic can't see that from under your hood.

    Best of luck - try someone else! :surprise:
  • I'm having the same issue. My 2011 Escape 4 cyl. 2 wheel drive, started vibrating when stopped at a stop sign, in gear at idle. I started to put the escape in neutral to minimize the vibration. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced an engine mount but the vibration is still there. They said there is nothing more they can do that it's a natural characteristic of the 4 cylinder engine. I'm pursuing matters through Ford. I will update if I get anywhere.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Yes, absent the inclusion of a balance shaft to damper those vibrations an I4 will exhibit your complaints, especially at idle.

    But Ford is too cheap for that.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Willard, I respect your knowledge, despite your anti-Ford bias. But I have an 08 Escape with the 4-pot, and it doesn't vibrate at idle. It's rough, it's noisy, it's annoying, and I much prefer the 6, but it doesn't vibrate.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    For some folks "rough" might equate to "vibration".
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    At this moment I can't think of any marque for which I am not "anti-" in some respect.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 39,015
    Good time of the year for some resolutions. :shades:
  • kellovkellov Posts: 1
    My wife left the door to our 2011 town and country open over night. Car started up fine, but the gauges are not operating today, wipers stay on, turn signals do not work. Any ideas?
  • mjc14mjc14 Posts: 1
    My '05 Escapre recently started slipping/vibrating when I hold it at 45 mph or 60 mph. No codes show when we run diagnostics on it. Twice now it has thrown up the theft signal. Today my engine light started flashing, but went off. Now my airbag light is on and staying on. We recently had a complete tune up to see if that would help.
  • Last week my 2005Ford Escape Hybrid engine blew up. Yes two pistons pushed through the engine block. It only had 63,000 miles on it, I only took it to the dealer for repair since buying it new (no one else would touch a hybrid). So I am looking at $8,000 plus to replace the engine. Does anyone know of a way to get Ford to help with some of the costs?

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