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Buick LeSabre Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for your answer! It appears that the center latch needs to move down a bit as the edges of the hood are a little higher than the fenders at this time.

    My tires are new and balanced. It only shakes at highway speeds or bumps.

    Thanks again for your advice!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,703
    You might check the back of the hood. I think there's a bumper in the middle of the back and also if the sides have bumpers and where the hinges are vertically.

    This message has been approved.

  • art27art27 Posts: 2
    When on highway w/cruise control "on" and operating normally, steering gently to the left causes vehicle speed to increase slightly. the quicker the turn, the faster the speed increase until@ approx. 10 to 14 mph higher than speed setting the cruise control "kicks off".
    Steering straight or to the right is normal operation.
    Items replaced: cruise control (3x); PCM (1x); speed sensor (1x); instrument panel (1x)
  • I don't see a section for Riviera so I will try here. I have a '97, 3.8 S/Charged. Problem, small skip or "bump" after warm up and mostly after shifting into drive/overdrive. RPM's go up/down 100/200, changed plugs(AC Delco) and (box store wires) . Problem got some better but not gone totally. Tried changing 1 of the power packs and then got a mis-fire code on #3. Went back to orinal p-pack. I also have a bit of a problem with throttle responce. On a grade, I have a bit of lugging, press down on the pedal and have to push about 3/4" and then it jumps to 2300 or so RPM's and shifts into another gear and moves on.
  • 94 LeSabre front end has noise when you turn the steering wheel left or right. Makes a kind of knocking sound, like something could be loose. Any idea what it could be??
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,703
    Could be different things. REquires someone to lift front of car and move steering wheel and wheels to try to cause the looseness giving the noise.
    Could be wheel bearing with looseness (going out).
    Could be loose bolts on the steering rack. I have read one person say that was giving a noise due to movement of the rack.
    Could be intermediate steering column that gives noise on some of the later cars. Don't recall it being a problem on those.

    This message has been approved.

  • rvb52rvb52 Posts: 1
    My 94 LeSabre makes a binding up type of noise when steering to the left or the right. Kind of pops (like something unbinding) when you first start out, say first thing in the morning, or after work. Gets better as you go along. Is there any type of joints in the column that need replacement? I thought tie rod ends at first but have no uneven tire wear or movement in the wheels.(in-out). I do not hear the popping as much outside the car as you do from in the drivers seat but sounds like it is just beyond the firewall.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,703
    Is the sound occurring while moving like it's the CV joints?

    Are you in an area with ice or snow on roads? Does it do it then in a parking lot where there's little resistance to the wheel being turned?

    My suspicion is it's the intermediate shaft in the steering gear. It is replaceable. There were slight troubles with lubrication not lasting in some later years. Yours might just be worn. I saw a Chev dealer selling a shaft for $92 to a guy ahead of me installing his own in a Buick. I've seen how-to-do-it guides for the mechically able.

    This message has been approved.

  • I have a 96 LeSabre with 117k miles. It has been a great car but last night I started it as usual and it started right up. Approximately 1 second after starting, everything shut down. The engine stopped, dash lights went out, everything... dead. I checked the voltage on the battery terminals and the hot terminal and ground and everything looks good. It is almost as if a "main fuse" blew somewhere but I don't know if LeSabres have such a thing. Any ideas?

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,703
    Check the battery cables for corrosion between the cables and the battery posts.

    Check the positive cable between the two layered cables. You might ahve to cut the plastic covering to inspect in between.

    Check the other ends of the cables where they ground for good, fresh contact.

    Your battery might have a broken post.

    YOu might turn the HVAC to off with the key ON if you're getting any power, especially if you have the automatic dual AC.\, before disconnecting the battery to do all this checking.

    This message has been approved.

  • Thanks for the reply. I thought that might be the problem so I checked the voltage between the battery posts and that looked ok. Thinking it may be a bad ground, I checked the voltage between the positive side of the battery and the frame... that looked ok also. Am I missing something?
  • Wonder of wonders! I took imidazol97's advice and cleaned my terminals and battery cables. They looked clean as a whistle on the outside but I discovered that they were badly corroded once I took the cables off the battery. A little sandpaper and elbow grease and now everything is as good as new! Thanks!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,703
    Thank you for reporting back what you found. That will encourage others to check those side cables first.

    This message has been approved.

  • My horn intermittently sticks on and I've read the repair answer in this forum, i.e., replace the airbag unit that has a new switch. I've been quoted around $800 for this job, which coincides with the $600 estimate for the new air bag alone. I also see mention of used bag at $200 - is this a safe option? Also, is this repair best performed at a regular mechanical shop, or a body shop? Thanks. Senior Ciitzen
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Can't speak to whether or not this is needed in order to fix the horn, but I'd be very concerned about the idea of a used airbag.

    Here's why:.

    1. Airbags aren't something to take a chance on--they're actually very sophisticated devices containing high explosives.
    2. They're not easy to remove without damage. So you might be buying an airbag that won't work properly.
    3. There is a huge market for stolen airbags. You may be buying stolen property without realizing it.
    4. A new part will usually carry some sort of warranty. A used one won't.
  • Thanks very much for your advice!
  • I took my car to a body shop and they asked them to try the procedure about disconnecting one of the horn switches I found here. Now it has the following sympthoms.
    1 - The horn switch on the side that is disconnected doesn't work at all.
    2 - The other horn switch will intermittenly function normally; and/or
    will not work at all.
    3 - The horn will start blowing on its own while the steering wheel is being rotated.
    4 - The horn will start blowing on its own after the car has been parked for 30 minutes to one hour.
    Assuming there is one hot lead going from the horn relay to the dual horn switches, it appears there is an intermittent short (or open when the horn won't work at all) in this lead some place between the relay and the switch that hasn't been disconnected?? How easy would it be to replace that length of lead between the relay and the horn switches??
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