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Buick LeSabre Maintenance and Repair

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  • oldsdadoldsdad Posts: 4
    Replaced the Mater and pwer assist as well as the pads and calipewrs. haed two power flushes. mechanics dont know where to go. Thought about vaccum leaks but the car dosnt stop well even if you lay into it hard. the pedal hits a brick wall and can go no farther.seems to be a hydraulic problem to me but im no mechanic. If you lay into the peddal that hard then the power assist is no longer in play ... right? Thanks so mmuch,,, John
  • wahortonwahorton Posts: 3
    Specs say the top speed of a 740iL is 125. What options are available that would allow me to achieve 155 - 160. Talks of "Turbo Charger" indicated major piston work-not! Wouldn't dream of adding Nitrous. So, next step, talk to the SMEs (Subject Matter Experts) on the subject.
  • wahortonwahorton Posts: 3
    My cruise control has a mind of it's own and that very dangerous. Sometimes when I try to activate it the speed increases by 10 mph for about 5 sec then the system disables, and will not activate again until the car is restarted. Other times the system will not activate at all, any suggestions?
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Specs say the top speed of a 740iL is 125. What options are available that would allow me to achieve 155 - 160. Talks of "Turbo Charger" indicated major piston work-not! Wouldn't dream of adding Nitrous. So, next step, talk to the SMEs (Subject Matter Experts) on the subject.

    May I ask: what does that have to do with the subject matter of this particular forum?
  • wahortonwahorton Posts: 3
    New to this setup, thought I was asking questions in the right place, understand if you can't answer. Thanks :shades:
  • bdoerrbdoerr Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Buick LeSabre custom which I bought used last week on 4/29/09, and I have had to go back 2x this week because the service engine light came on, and this time the tech told me the gas cap was defective. Car has 68,500 miles was a rental car before I bought it. Is this a common problem
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    What code was showing on the code reader? There's on that indicates the system can't keep pressure and that would indicate the gas cap or other hoses or switches.
  • bdoerrbdoerr Posts: 3
    Thanks for asking, the tech didnt give me that info, but said he is ordering a new gas cap, they checked it 2x the last time, yesterday is when they said it was the gas cap, hopefully this fixes it
    Thbaks agaib
  • whozleftwhozleft Posts: 2
    I need your help trying to track down the source of my problem.
    When my LeSabre shifts into overdrive at about 50mph, it starts missing. Now, if I downshift it manually into the next lower gear to bring up the RPM's it runs fine. Or if I gas it and get the RPM's up it's ok. Another thing I have noticed is that it does not do this when I first start driving in the morning when the engine is not up to temp yet.

    Now the short answer is to never put the car in overdrive until I'm on the highway running 65mph, but that still doesn't make the car right.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on what to start looking for? It's had a tuneup, the tranny has been checked, my check engine light does not come on, and there are no codes on my code reader coming up. I am at a loss.

    Thanks for any ideas you can give me.

    Gary
    Pataskala, OH
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    DISCLAIMER: I don't own a LeSabre. My comments are based on experience with a different GM transmission in a Monte Carlo.

    What you're feeling may not be an engine misfire but a failed torque converter solenoid. The solenoid is supposed to lock up the torque converter, to eliminate slip and improve fuel economy. If the transmission is shifting into OD at low speed (below about 45 mph) then the engine will "lug" (run too slowly to run smoothly under load).

    If the solenoid fails, it may only partially engage the lockup function, or it may engage and disengage repeatedly, creating a nasty surge and possibly a clunking noise.

    Either that, or you may have a failed speed sensor in the transmission (assuming the trans is electronically controlled). If the trans isn't electronically controlled, then a vacuum leak could cause the behavior you describe.

    I ran my Monte Carlo with no problems for 65k miles after the symptom first appeared, just by waiting till I was up to freeway speed to engage the overdrive. It's not an ideal solution, but it didn't create any additional problems.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    I am not sure about your transmission. I believe you have the 4T60E rather than the 4T65E which started in 1998. In the 4T65E there was a solenoid that adjusted the torque converter lockup slip amounts and something like 98% was the max lockup. That moving valve would wear the channel and have trouble controlling the lockup amount. So the engine speed would vary a hundred or more RPMs driving along with minimal load on it. Typically this was more of a problem with a hot transmission after being driven a long time. I believe it was called a throttle valve.

    But I believe you'll find your problem in spark plugs and wires. If not replaced in 4 years or 50,000 miles or so, replace with the proper AC Delco plug per the books at PepBoys, e.g, and replace the wires with a Delco AC replacement or Belden from NAPA. Don't go for fancy or sporty or racing wires in nice colors. You want OEM resistance wires.

    You might make sure the wire in back isn't close to the wire for the Oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe. Some people think the electromagnetic induction can affect the O2 readings.

    Then check your coils. Use a resistance meter between coil terminals. Compare all three. Then take off each coil one at a time, put in a paper clip or pin to measure the resistance of the terminals on the primary side underneath. Compare all three. While they're off check the prongs on the contacts that stick into the coil and make sure they're clean and lube with dielectric grease just like you use on the plugs to prevent the wires from sticking to the porcelain.
  • This problem started about a week ago and i cant seem to figure it out and i havent had much time to really dig into it.

    My rpm metter free floats from 0-7000rpms and above, the car itself never stops running at normal rmps, never revs, nothing, but the meter is all over the charts. if i rev the engine, it will take off from where ever it happens to be and begin to read and then fall to normal areas, for instance if i rev the car and its already floated to 4000, it will jump to 6000 cause i reved it, then fall back down to 800 or so for idling. Happens while driving, while idling, anytime the car is on.

    Any ideas? My one friend said its probably one or 2 of my sensors that went bad.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thank u
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    >My one friend said its probably one or 2 of my sensors that went bad

    I thought the RPM gauge got its reading from the PCM (computer). I'd look for a dirty connector but first I'd suspect it's in the actual cluster assembly. I'd look for contacts there that have corroded where the cluster connects to the wiring harness. Bonneville people have some trouble with corrosion there. You might try the vibration method-hitting the cluster to try to break through any corrosion with movement enabling a fresh connection metal-to-metal. And there may be a module that interprets the signals from the PCM that's a part of the cluster. That may be failing. But I'd suspect connections first.
  • alright, yea i didnt think it was a sensor either cuase i didnt see how that really related to the rpm meter but at this point im lookin at all options haha, thanks for the help!
  • keso151keso151 Posts: 3
    Having trouble with a new vcar we purchased. The car has 47,000 miles and the passenger side a/c blows warm. We charged the system to 35 lbs with no help.Moving the actuator under the glovebox was no help.There are 3 actuators in the back of the glovebox...has anyone fixed this problem before?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    There is an electrical actuator motor on top of the heater box above the programmer. It's connected by a short set of wires. I think, think, that is the one for the passenger side. See if it's working. The motors can have gears crack and they slip on the axle.

    The other actuator is inside the programmer and extends its rod along the bottom of the box to a white plastic arm that moves a door inside for the driver air temp.

    the other actuators are vacuum and they are on the driver's side of the HVAC box.
  • keso151keso151 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the quick reply..do I access the passenger actuator thru the glovebox?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    Take off the passenger hush panel.

    Take off the 7 screws along the bottom hinge of the glovebox. With those both out of the way you'll be able to see both and watch their actions with the key ON and when changing the settings on the dash or on passenger door.. One does passenger, one does driver. And I believe it's the bottom is driver.

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  • HI, I had the same problem on my 2002 blower motor. I would beat on the dash and it would start up. Got tired of that so I took the blower motor out and took it apart and found black soot pluging up the works. Cleaned it out put back together now works great........Alan................Note the blower motor was made in Korea !!
  • I have a 95 buick lesabre custom. It is leaking gas and i need an engine diagram or something to figure out what the part i need is called so i can get it fixed can anyone help?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    Why do you believe it's leaking gas? What are the symptoms?

    There are places on an engine where gas can leak. There are connections on the flexible fuel lines at the fuel rails that holds the injectors.

    There is a FPR (fuel pressure regulator) which controls the fuel pressure based on engine vacuum, sensing the demand for power from the engine. These in some cases were recalled because they could leak into the vacuum tube connected to them and let raw fuel get into the intake manifold where there usually is only air; occasionally a spark would ignite that mixture and the upper intake manifold would crack from the pressure inside.

    There is raw fuel at each injector. There are o-rings around each injector (two) and these might leak with age allowing raw fuel to seep out.

    Your brief description sounds like you are smelling gasoline and believe it's in the engine compartment.

    You also can have fuel leak at the metal line from the gas tank which is under pressure by the right rear tire.

    You also can have a fuel leak at the fuel filter in that line from the tank. The fuel filter is under the rear passenger's right foot. It's about the size of a caffeine drink can (Red Bull?). the connections there might be leaking.

    At the back of the car rust is a major problem if the car doesn't get sprayed off regularly when the car gets salt underneath in the winter in the northern parts.
    There
  • I have a 98 LeSabre, a strange thing happened! It was running fine, took the car in for a oil change and it died. They had to push it out of the garage bay. It has battery power but will not start. I turn the key and NOT A SOUND...Garage is baffled now they think the security system is messed up. Can not find security code to reset. Does this sound right or am I getting ripped off, they been working on it 3 days and that's 3 days I have not been able to go to work, so time is money. Can anyone give me the code to pass along to the garage ? Thanks for any help.
  • i saw the gas coming out thats how i know its in the engine compartment. I got the leak fixed today turns out it was just a small clip that was broken instead of the whole piece which i also figured out what that was by searching through catalogs at my work (schucks). now I just need to figure out why my car is "sputtering" when you accelerate from a stop. since there are quite a few things that can cause it im starting small and working my way from there. If anyone has suggestions that could cause that, that I may have not thought of yet that would be helpful also. I just bought the car so im not really sure what has been done recently, I just changed the plugs and that is all I have done so far.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,149
    If you turn the key to ON and the security light comes on, it should go off after 5 seconds or less if the VATS reads the right key resistance in the chip. If the wrong resistance is read, the security light flashes for 3 minutes and prevents the fuel injectors and the starter from operating. After 3 minutes it's ready to read a resistance on another key. When you turn the key to ON all the lights and indicators operate, but no crank.

    Wrong resistance is because of breaking wires in the tilt region of the steering wheel or wear on the two metal sensors that touch the contacts on the key in the lock cylinder.

    If the VATS is not flashing, it might be battery connections at the double positive cables. Sometimes corrosion between them causes funny things to happen.

    Had the security light been on or off at times while driving? Is it flashing now?

    http://vats.likeabigdog.com/
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