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Buick LeSabre Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Thanks, I have forwarded it to my mechanic. Hope it works !!
  • Apparently, YES it's a problem!! I have a 2003 with 78K and the cap needs to have special attention to make sure it's secure OR you WILL get a check engine light. Once the cap is secure, the warning will go away after a few start-ups. And unfortunately if the gas cap needs replaced, your Auto-Zone replacement won't work....it MUST be a GM cap.

    Fred
  • 2001 LeSabre limited with 109000 miles. The oil level is full and the engine runs smooth. But.... the digital readout indicates an oil pressure of 129 psi. (it also indicates "Pressure Normal", boy is it confused) The oil pres. light dosen't light up. I believe this to be the sender. Any ideas, also where is the sender?

    Another issue, with a quarter tank of fuel the guage moves back and forth from full to empty to half to a quarter after we get under way then finally settles down. Another sensor??
    Thanks for any help.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,161
    Some people have had a failure of the pressure sensor and get that high reading. You would need to verify that the reading changes when removing the wire from the sensor and/or making a direct connection. You would need to check a factory service manual to verify proper tests.

    The pressure sensor is above the oil filter (remove oil filter). People with some undercar ability have replaced their own sensor.
  • The wandering gas gauge is a typical problem that plagues Buicks.

    The high pressure might just be when the engine is cold. Look at your pressure reading again after the engine is at operating temp.
    I get a similar "high" reading when engine is cold.

    Fred
  • hi,i'm in cambridge in the united kingdom,been left a 1992 le sabre by a uncle previously in the usaf based at raf mildenhall since passed away.car in garage for 10 years not started.tried jump starting with another car but wont start.while checking diagnostic connector near steering column jumper link fell out,need to know which pins it connects to.I need to put it back.second problem,cut battery restraining bracket with angle grinder to fit new battery but cut through black plastic hose under battery tray,whats this tubing for?anyone help thanks Steve..in the uk and no buick mechanics here..
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,161
    edited March 2010
    I do not know about a jumper in the assembly line diagnostic connector.
    I remember a black tube near the battery but don't recall what it was.

    What you really need is a Helm service manual for that year Buick LeSabre.

    The cover will be like this.
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-92-Buick-LeSabre-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual_- - W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255967efacQQitemZ160413773740QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5f- - Literature

    I am not recommending any particular auction. I believe the manual actually is a two part set for 1993. But you are in need of a 1992. I did see one offer for an electrical manual for 1992 and that may be the other part.

    Helminc.com is the official supplier and the cost will probably be $120-$135 there exclusive of shipping to UK.

    Click on my user name for this post and you will see a box with my email in it. Send me a note and I'll suggest a couple of other help ideas for you.
  • I had trouble with an intermittent blower motor. When it wasn't working I could either hit the dashboard on the passenger side or kick the panel underneath and the motor would start off slow and then pick up speed. A similar report by ,xfilesalan on 9-25-09, report he took the motor apart and found soot. I removed my motor and notice black soot falling out. There are two screws on the bottom. I removed these screws and pried the motor assembly off about a half inch but not all the way off. The I tapped, rotated and clean as best I could with a can of air. Put the motor back and it now works as it should. Removing the motor is fairly easy. Remove the panel underneath the glovebox
    (mine had two screws holding it). With that panel removed you can see the motor. Mine had an air hose which slips onto a pipe. Remove the back screws of the motor first as the front screw will hold the motor in place. Clean the motor as described above. When installing the motor put the rubber hose on first and the front screw, then the back two screws. Took me less than one hour.
  • louisiana1louisiana1 Posts: 6
    I have a problem with my 98 Buick Lesabre. Last Friday my blower just stop working with no warnings @ all. It was working fine 2hrs prior. I put a brand new blower on it and the new one wouldn't come on. Since my old one was already off, i got it tested @ Autozone. It spent like a champ. I checked all fuses and all of them lit up. I even check the ones on the passenger side and under the hood, they all tested positive. Later, I got a resistor off a used Buick and hooked it up and the blower still wouldnt work. Next, I got an a/c switch off a used Buick and still nothing. The blower still wouldn't blow. I've taken it 2 several mechanics and they're dumbfounded, they can't find out whats the problem. Im just tired of spending money and my problem isnt being fix. I'm in desperate need of help. Can you help me
  • BrooksmanBrooksman Posts: 8
    We found if you whack the blower motor and it will start working, though after a while it quit all together. We ended up replacing it.
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 45
    Hi, maybe a silly response, but did anyone check the ground to the motor? you can test the ground or use a wire from the negative post of the battery...
  • mddrj74mddrj74 Posts: 4
    2000 Buick lesaber ,3.8Lt ,140,000mi

    Hello, I have recently ran into a Problem that just bogels my mind. I drove my car all day mind you, went into a friends house and came back to the car (2000 Buick lesaber) and attempted to start it. It would not even turn over. No selections of the ignition switch would ingauge (key Pos 1,2,3). The lights illuminating the driver and Passenger door window and lock buttons are constantly on (have to unplug the battery) and the horn will stay ingauged if Pushed at all. The radio will turn itself all of the way u or down when battery is plug back in but, no power to it other than the tiny security light(on the head unit not dash). The power seats do move when battery is pluged in.I have no dash lights nothing other than the mentioned above.

    WHAT I HAVE DONE:
    Checked All grounds I know of.
    Checked Battery
    Checked fuses,fuse box ground studs
    Removed ignition switch(Took it apart all contacts and wires are in pristine condition but what I observed was that the vehicle has the same problems with ignition switch removed so could that still be the problem?)
    pass key 111 unit is installed factory but, the keys I have do not have chips in them, never have.(also security light it not blinking on dash)

    Any and all suggestions and very welcome and thank all of you for taking your time to read and possibly help me out
  • mddrj74mddrj74 Posts: 4
    UPDATE:
    I was tinkering with the vehicle this morning and found out that if I have the ABS box is unpluged. My horn issue seems to go away(It staying inguaged that is).

    Also if someone could please tell me where the (PCM) is located. My haynes manual says "under the right side of the dash"
    If someone could PLEASE be more specific of where there located I would be very grateful.

    (REASON) To check the ground. I was reading something that was saying that a loose ground to the (PCM) would create a problem like that.

    If anyone has any suggestions of something I could try anything and thank you again. :( :sick:
  • mddrj74mddrj74 Posts: 4
    Can someone PLEASE tell me where to fine the (BCM). Also if anyone has any information on what my buick is going through I would be very grateful.

    --THANKS AGAIN--
  • I was driving along in my 2000 LeSabre enjoying the nice A/C here in this 98 degree Texas weather and all of sudden the blow stopped working. The control panel for the A/C is completely dean.

    I have checked all fuses and all are OK. Can anyone tell me if there is a fuse link somewhere that I cannot locate. It has me HOT UNDER THE COLLAR! ">
  • When I had my old 1989 Buick Century, my local mechanic was always careful to clean the throttle body. I've had my 1995 Buick LeSabre with the same V-6 engine for 7 years, and my new mechanic has never cleaned it. It runs good, except I've dropped from 19mpg around town to 13mpg. I wonder if the throttle body needs regular cleaning?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,161
    First, I doubt it's the same engine. The leSabre is a 3800 Series II, I believe. The Century was a 3300 IIRC.

    Lots of short trips, high AC usage, alcohol in fuel, and other things can lead to lower gas mileage. The gunk settled on the inside of the upper intake and on the throttle body doesn't affect the gas mileage; it may affect the idle quality and may cause throttle sticking when first moved after engine cools and throttle body shrinks.

    I'd get a 20 Oz bottle of Techron for fuel system cleaning (not the injector cleaner version).

    When fuel is about a quarter or lower, add the Techron, then add fuel. Use a good brand. You may sense a change in the motor's response to accelerator after 10-20 miles.

    You might change gas stations and brand if you tend to frequent one particular station or brand. It's my opinion, not proven fact, that some get more alcohol in their fuel than others do. You might also try adding a fill of a name brand premium that claims extra good fuel cleaners to a tank that's got less than half full regular to give a better mix of cleaners in the gas. Mixing the two gives about a midgrade octane. These cars don't need 91-92 octane.

    How are plugs and wires? Have plugs been changed in 40 K miles?

    I'd suggest, if you do it yourself, taking out the MAF and gently cleaning it with a cleaner for MAFs sold at auto parts box stores (CRC is a company that makes the brand I have). Use an artist's brush hairs to wipe the two electrical wires that are very delicate.

    The throttle body would need cleaned only if you have an uneven idle at times, or if when you start the car and go to mvoe the accelerator, it sticks until the first time you move it because the crud has thickened and is touching the throttle plate.

    Have you taken the car on a normal speed highway drive and set the gas mileage readout and seen how well the mileage is doing? Using the gallons and the odometer to measure mileage is not as accurate.

    My 98 and 03 will give 30-38 at 50-55 mph on level glacial plain roads out into the country. A slight increase in headwind or speed through the air reduces that. At 65 with no wind it will give 29-32.

    Watch the coolant level in the reservoir. I believe your 95 through 2004 has upper intake and lower intake gaskets that may start seeping coolant. If it says Series II on the gray cover over the motor, then that's the case. If it had orange DexCool in it then it's more prone to seeps due to alleged interaction of DexCool with the nylon in the gasket.

    Change your transmission fluid by draining and putting a new filter in if it hasn't been changed in 50-60K. I believe the original was supposed to go 100,000 miles under normal duty use, but I suggest the drain and fill earlier like 60K-70K. Do not let them sell you a flush where they run through a strong chemical and don't take the lower pan off. Just take off the lower pan, drain half the fluid which comes out, and add half new fluid. The cleaners in the new half fluid will not shock the things gooped in places like the flush will.
  • This is just the kind of information I was looking for! The engine is the 3.8 liter version. I've been using the 87 octane gas, and sometimes I notice the gas pump says contains Ethanol. I never remember whether this is good for my engine or not. I think EXON gas is advertised to contain Techron, but I'll get a bottle to put in as you suggest. Please tell me that MAF is! The grey cover on the engine reads only "3800 Tuned Port Injection." No series mentioned.
    I find it's been 2 years (13K miles) since I had the transmission serviced, and that was only a flush - guess it's time to get the fluid changed! I've had the car 7 years (56k miles!) and my maintenance record doesn't show the fluid/seal has ever been changed! 6 years and 43K on the plugs, and 6 years 38K on the wires - geez! I've got some things to try here. Thanks very much!
  • rallyveerallyvee Posts: 10
    I'm not a mechanic, but I've taken my car to some mechanics, and they're stumped. I hope someone here can help me get SOME idea of what the problem is, so I can print out the info and maybe it will help a local mechanic understand what's going on.

    My 96 Buick LeSabre Custom has about 80,000 miles on it. Just got a new fuel pump in late 2009, and everything was going well until I hit a HUGE pothole. Immediately afterward, the right rear power window stopped working, and I started having problems with a weird whining coming from UNDERNEATH the car.

    Here's what's going on:

    * The whining can't be heard under the hood. ONLY underneath the car, but it gets so loud you can hear it in the cabin. It sounds like somebody is using a drill, and it gets louder as the motor gets hotter.

    * One mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump. Another said that's impossible, because once the sound gets started, it will also happen when I turn the key just enough to roll down the power windows, and the fuel pump isn't even doing anything. It lasts as long as I have the key in the on position. The ones who think it's the fuel pump won't even bother trying to fix our car--they say some fuel pumps are just noisy. (Like our fuel pump would suddenly make noise, rather than being noisy from day one?)

    * The sound isn't always there. It seems to get louder, the warmer the engine gets, and goes away when the car is cool. I have to drive 20-30 miles for it to start (maybe less if it's a hot enough day).

    * One mechanic thought it was the AC compressor, but that's impossible because the sound will occur even if you don't use the AC or vent fan at all. I learned that the hard way, by driving 30 miles into town on a hot day with the windows rolled down.

    * The sound increases, as the heat increases. So I can use the AC at night (when it's warm and humid), and there's no sound at all. However, if I drive during the day, the sound will start. If I use the vent fan, it will be louder. If I use the AC, that apparently really makes the car hot, because the whining gets intolerable. But the important fact that these local mechanics ignore is that I can use the AC with no problems during cooler weather, and the sound will also occur on a hot day without using the vent/AC at all, so it can't be a problem with the AC.

    I'm disabled, and my elderly mother has health problems, and I'm very worried that we're going to get stranded between our rural hometown and the city where we have to do all our shopping. Neither of us could tolerate being stranded in the heat, waiting for AAA, so I've had to do all our shopping at night. We can't even make it to our doctor appointments, because we can't travel until dark.

    So if anybody has any clue as to what this could be, it would really help. I'd rather just arrange to drive the car up in the evening, get a rental car, and leave the Buick at the mechanics, as I'm concerned about getting stranded during the day. But the car won't make the noise unless it's driven 20-30 miles, which no mechanic has time to do--so they can't hear the noise for themselves. I thought that maybe if you folks had some ideas, I could print them out, and maybe that would help a mechanic pinpoint the problem.

    Thanks for any help you can provide!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,161
    The fuel pump turns on when you turn the key to ON, even if you don't start the car. BUT it quits running after 2-3 seconds, unless the motor is started.

    Has someone looked at the underside of the car to see what was hit or twisted when you hit the pothole?

    Does the whining speed up and down with the speed of the car? Or is it a constant?

    Does the whining speed up or down with the speed of the motor in different gears?

    Have you driven the car until it's hot and doing the noise and then stopped at the dealer to have them listen to the noise after the car is making it?
  • rallyveerallyvee Posts: 10
    To answer your questions....

    When the car is making noise, I can turn the key to on, but the sound does not go off after a few seconds. It keeps making noise for as long as I leave it in the on position.

    Nobody has looked at the underside of the car, much to my frustration. It's just, "You have a noisy fuel pump, that's all." Yet it was never noisy until I hit that pothole. IMHO these mechanics I've seen so far are just lazy, but that's another story.

    The whining doesn't change with the speed of the car; it's constant. (Also, it has an automatic transmission, if that makes any difference.) The only thing is that it gets louder as time goes on. Unless I drive at night, when it's cooler outside, in which case the noise never starts at all--even when I use the AC.

    Yes, I've taken the car to a mechanic when I was in the city, and the noise was really bad. They said it was the fuel pump, ran some test on it that cost about $16 (IIRC, they tested for fuel pressure, but I could be wrong), then said everything was fine. Uh...yeah. Right. LOL.

    I have some further info that might be of help: I just had the fuel pump replaced in December 2009, because it just stopped working, leaving us stranded in a parking lot. I've seen videos on YouTube where a failing fuel pump sounds a lot like the noise under my car...like this video, except that the sound doesn't go up and down:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcgCGpC1dfc

    I hope this follow-up info is helpful, and thanks for your reply.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,161
    Your link doesn't go to a fuel pump, instead it gives a dune buggy doing a hill climb!

    What happens when you turn the key to OFF. Does the sound quit?

    I'm suspecting you might have a problem with the heater blower motor. It might be something rubbing on the fins of the squirrel cage that actually spins the air and forces it down the duct to go through the heater system. That is one thing that would be ON when the engine is NOT running.

    The fuel pump should shut off when the engine is OFF. You can listen to your fuel pump but turning the key ON with the heater and accessories all turned off. You'll hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds. It will not continuously run unless there's a defect in the relay that operates it. It only runs to prime the pressure in the system. Everytime you turn the key back to ON it will run 2 seconds. After the engine cranks, the oil pressure switch turns on the fuel pump and keeps it running.

    If your car has the option for self-leveling rear suspension, you have an air pump that puts pressure into the rear struts. It should run only when the pressure drops and the suspension goes low. When the key it turned to ON without starting the car, wait up to 40 seconds and you'll hear that pump start and run about 5 seconds to prime the air pressure. On your car I think, think, it's located under the right rear fender of the car. Have someone turn the key ON and go back by the fender and listen. It's a low, rough, cheap air pump sound. It sounds like a $10 compressor from Harbor Freight that plugs into the lighter plug to put air into my tires.

    On the heater blower..., it is under the hood on the firewall behind the engine. Some owners have said the plastic around that area gets brittle from time and severe heat. You might have had that plastic deteriorate causing something to rub the fan blower. The blower is held in by 5 screws. It is difficult to reach behind the motor to take it out to check. Messing with the screws and taking it out may crack that plastic as well. Some folks have used varied nonflammable things to repair damage on that plastic region
  • I keep getting Code P0401. It has new air filter, new EGR valve, new solenoid, the air flow passage has been cleaned from the filter to the intake manifold. I sure do need some suggestions if any of you guys have any. :cry:
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