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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

joloujolou Posts: 2
97 protoge', 48+K miles. I've had it for two
months and have recently noticed a groaning,
scraping sound while braking slightly or during
slow turns while not applying the brake. Sound is
not consistent. Manual mentions brake pad
indicators making a screeching sound when the pads
are worn...has anyone experienced this groaning,
scraping sound? It sounds just like something is
dragging from underneath and scraping the road. I
am taking it in this week to be evaluated. Can
someone give me an idea of what a brake pad
replacement will run? Do the dealership service
centers indeed charge at least 10% more? Is it
worth it for a Mazda authorized service center to
do the work or does it really matter with a job
like replacing brake pads? Thank you.
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Comments

  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I replaced my EGR valve about 1.5 years ago. I was getting some pinging upon acceleration and the EGR valve was the last thing left to try to correct it. If my memory serves me right, it is located drivers side, firewall side, and up fairly high on the engine.

     

    I purchased a new Borg Warner valve (Part # EGR1122) at either Auto Zone or O'Reilly for around $75. I have the '95 1.5, so the part you get may have a different number.

     

    Replacement was fairly easy. I just needed an articulated or swiveling ratchet extension to get down to the bolts. Upon inspection, the valve did have significant carbon build up inside. I was just too lazy or impatient to clean out the old one.

     

    Also, be sure to check the rubber air intake snorkle. Mine developed hailine cracks around 7 or 8 years old.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    I am copying and reposting the following from a similar topic:

      #0 of 0: (wyldebill) Tue 13 Jun '00 (08:22 AM)

      this car has a hole the size of the grandcanyon at
      low speed, around 1500rpm? it literally pitches
      forward before shifting up. the shifts themselves
      feel fine, actually pretty tight. it's the damn
      pause before the first shift thats annoying me as
      well as the timing of it. it's not uncommon for
      this car to shift midway around a corner (90
      degree). also the car doesn't seem to accellerate
      until the rpms are above 2500-3000rpm. i mean u
      put the accellerator to the floor and it's this
      constant speed until about 2500rpm, then it starts
      to pick up. is that right? i've had honda civics
      and chev cavaliers that accelerated harder.
      bringing it back to dealer (my salesman has since
      disappeared..figure that one out) since it is a
      pre-certified mazda. curious if anyone has anything similar to offer.
    Does anyone have any suggestions for wyldebill?

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    ... my '92 Protege LX automatic did exactly the same thing you're talking about, and I presume you've got a '99 or '00. When I asked my Mazda technician about it way back then, he said it was operating as designed. He further explained that it's designed that way to shift more efficiently, when all of the clutch packs in the transmission are synchronized.

    That might be a lot of technical jargon (or even bull crap), but I do know this: I never had a problem with the transmission.

    My .02, FYI.

    MD
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Just noticed your title said you had a '98. Sorry 'bout that!

    MD
  • joloujolou Posts: 2
    Took it in to dealer service center..whoever did the last brake pad replacement only replaced one side and they removed the brake pad indicator so I was not aware that the pad needed replacing (I've only had the car two months). Of course, rotor was damaged badly and that was why it was making that awful scraping groaning sound. Rotor replacement and pad replacement and turning of remaining good rotor cost me 300..parts and labor. Check out those used cars immediately after purchasing, especially if the used dealers offer a 30 day warranty (which ours did but husband declined to have car mechanically inspected).
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Wow, jolou, that's too bad. Sorry that happened to you.

    Thanks for the update.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • j70005tj70005t Posts: 2
    i have a 97' protege DX, having similar problems as jolou has, hope experts here can give me some suggestions:

    when braking, right before coming to a full stop, i can hear some "rubbing" noise, seems the pad is runnbing against sth. more annoyingly, after coming to a full stop (e.g. in front of redlight), the some vibrating noise is heard from the hood, seems coming from engine.

    I took the car to a Mazda dealership, they checked , saying my braking pads are fine, it is engine that is running rough because carbon built-up in engine as a result of not completing burning gas (i have only 22k on it, they suggested that is because i didn't drive much.) Believing what they said, i went ahead to have them do the cleaning for a whopping $200. Got the car back yesterday, found out the 2 problems are the same:
    1. brake still makes that noise;
    2. the engine vibrating noise is even louder and more evident.

    I will bring back the car to the shop to argue with them. Can some one give me more suggestions on this case?

    FYI: it is a 97' protege, 1.5 liter engine, for the first 2 years i only drove it a few miles everyday (to the metro station) on weekdays, thus only 22k miles on it. Regularly maintained/oil change, etc.
  • kmh3kmh3 Posts: 35
    No it wasn't carbon deposits. Carbon deposits cause an engine to ping or knock under load, note this does not affect idle at all. Modern anti-knock sensors retard the engine timing so no knocking is heard, you lose power and gas mileage instead.

    Carbon deposits reach a steady state at about 10-20k miles. The trick is for that steady state to be below the ping threshold.

    Causes of excessive carbon deposit buildup are putting supreme gas into a regular engine, driving a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't have a chance to warm up, and an engine that burns oil can have excessive carbon deposit buildup too.

    Running rough at idle which is what you are describing can be a binding automatic clutch, or maybe just the idle speed is set too low. You could also have air intake adjustment problems, the air intake is computer controlled and something in there could be binding up too. Ultimately though, all of these add up to an idle speed that is too low, although the cause is different.

    I would start with the idle adjust. If you have a manual then the problem is not in an automatic clutch because you don't have one. The problem is more likely idle speed too low, clogged fuel injectors, or something messed up in the air intake path.

    If you have a tach you can easily test and verify the idle speed, I don't know what the recommended spec is but mine reads about 650 RPM. If you have a manual then this is an easy test try gently pressing on the gas and get the idle up to 700 RPM, if the shuddering noise goes away then the problem is identified. If you have an automatic then try shifting into neutral and back. If the idle isn't up to near 700 RPM in both cases then an adjustment may be needed, if the problem goes away in neutral and the idle speed goes up, that confirms a low idle also.

    If shifting into drive causes a huge decrease in idle speed and idle adjust does not fix it (meaning the idle speed is hard to raise up but in neutral it goes way up easily) then you have an automatic clutch problem (these are rare so not too likely here).

    hope this helps,

    kmh3
  • wbaker1wbaker1 Posts: 1
    Some people have asked how long a Mazda will last. I've had my 91 626 since 9/93 when I bought it with 16,000 miles on it. I now have 350,000 miles and still with the original 5 speed manual transmission. I replaced the engine @ 266,000 due to excessive oil consumption. I bought a used engine with 40,000 miles on it supposedly (you really never know about the true mileage) & have been very happy with it. The only problems I have had are the air conditioner ( which I have had worked on many times) & the excessive road noise due to design I suspect. Other than that I've been very happy with it. It has been extremely dependable.
  • kdankakdanka Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 96 PROTEGE LX THAT IDLES ROUGH OR WHEN POWER WINDOWS ARE USED AT IDLE. I ALSO HAVE A HIGH END STEREO SYTEM CURRENTLY USING THREE AMPLIFIERS BUT IT IDLED ROUGH BEFORE I HAD THE SYSTEM. RUBBING NOISE ALSO WHEN I SLOW DOWN TO BRAKE FOR A LIGHT OR STOP SIGN. MECHANIC SAYS THAT MY CALLIPER ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS STICKING. IS THIS TRUE? I JUST HAD THE PADS REPLACED AND ROTORS TURNED ABOUT 1000 MILES AGO AND NOTICED THIS NOISE AFTER THAT.
  • quad143quad143 Posts: 3
    I have a '97 Mazda Protege LX, I got it new so I have had it for almost 3 years. I have about 41,000 miles on it. I love my car, it is so dependable. I recently had thought that I needed to change the brake pads and I also heard a tapping like you said, j70005t. I found out that the tapping was the heat cover (?), I have no idea what that was but they just removed it-guess you don't need it. It is fine now. They checked the brakes and said they were fine. No noises now. I have not had anything wrong with it, I have taken it for regular oil changes and just had the brake pads replaced (driving in downtown Boston, MA during rush hour kills my brakes). I love the way it handles too, it is so easy to steer and I love the pick up on it. So j70005t, have the mechanic check the heat cover to see if that is what is causing the noise.
  • j70005tj70005t Posts: 2
    Thanks for all your comments/tips on my original post about a protege (auto/dx/97). I took the car back last week to the dealer again, and a technician took a ride with me in the car, he then listened to the noise, open the hood, and adjusted 2 screws, and the hood is no-longer in contact with the noise source and the it is "fixed". Although, i can still feel the idle is still a little rough. As kmh3 said, it might just be a low idle (when i changed to "N", it seems reduces the small vibration i can feel). Anyway, the dealer has cleaned the carbon built-up and air in-take in "an effort" to fix the idle problem. (The technician told me the computer will do most of the work, so they just did the cleaning.) In the past 3 years, i drove mostly short trips.

    Anyway, felt much better now. Agree with quad143, this is a nice car. Loved it.

    Thanks again!

    jt
  • fas3fas3 Posts: 1
    My '98 Mazda Protege LX (automatic) has 25,000 miles on it. Just recently, the dashboard light behind the speedometer and tachometer went out for good. Also, the tripometer continually resets itself without me pushing in the knob to reset it. I just recently bought the car from a dealer and it is still under warranty. When I bought the car, the odometer had been replaced 5,000 miles ago.

    Could these two problems be related to having a bad clip or dashboard unit? Any suggestions? Is the dashboard light hard to replace? Will this be covered under Mazda's warranty?

    Thanks for any input.
  • quad143quad143 Posts: 3
    I recently said that I have had no problems with my '97 Protege LX, I guess I should have knocked on wood. The problem isn't bad though, I noticed that all the lights on the dash are on except the heat/AC control. I noticed the strip where you control what is on was not lit up and then once I moved it back and forth a few times, it came back on. I will take it in and have it fixed because my warranty is up soon, I think. No problems with any other lights or anything else (now I am knocking on wood). I'll let you know what the dealer tells me.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    ... for a 3-year-old car. You've probably got nothing more than a light bulb that's loose in its socket.

    MD
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    Two days ago my '00 Protege ES just lost power. The car became much clumsy and acceleration became so bad. Before I wasn't able to floor the gas pedal at all - the car would take of! Now I am pressing it all the way down, trying to get responce...which comes years later and it is much weaker, compared to what it was before.
    Today I took it to the dealer. They said - "no problems found". Damn! Tech roadtested the vehicle for 2 miles - felt ok according to the tech. "checked computer for codes. no codes found" - I do not even know what that means.
    I have no idea what to do...
    A person from the TownHall suggested check/change the air filter. (I'll do it tomorrow, but the car has less than 4000 miles on it) Is it possible the air filter to affect the power that much?
    By the way - the gas pedal itself feels sort of "lighter" - seems like now it is easier to press it...
    Any ideas/suggestions?
  • mpshutempshute Posts: 6
    thanks for the input, Chickoo and Mdaffron,. My protege is an ES and the noise does not sound like it is coming from the engine as it is very loud and sounds like it is outside of the engine as it is not muffled and almost echo's under the hood. My guess would be it is a part that is loose, I will check the plugs however and notice if it occurs at a certain RPM range. I don't feel anything weird on the acceleration pedal when it occur's either.

    Matt
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    open the hood. put the car in N and race the engine. see where the sound is coming from.
    might well be something stuck to the radiator fan for all you know!
  • doctoranndoctorann Posts: 12
    I have a 2000 Protege' ES with a manual transmission. I bought it newm and after 8 months and 10,000 miles, I absolutely love it! I have a couple of friends who are looking for new cars, and they're getting tired of me pushing the virtues of the Protege' :)

    But recently, I have noticed a soft "clunk" when I shift gears, and a very brief loss of power immediately afterwards. Does anyone know what this might be?

    Since I am female, I'd like some technical terms, because I want the guys at the dealer's service shop to take me seriously. :/
  • 5speed15speed1 Posts: 6
    I'm having the same problem on my ES 5 speed. I'm also a moron under the hood, so don't feel bad ;)

    I'm calling the dealership Monday, I'll let you know what I find out. I'm ususally in the MAZDA PROTEGE 4 topic thread, but thought I'd check this one out, too. I'd check that thread too. Let me know if you find out anything!

    PS Its a brand new ES, only 460 miles, so I'm concerned, too.
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