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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Is it safe to assume when you replaced the waterpump, that you also replaced the radiator hoses (ie. no collapsed lower rad hose).

    I don't know whether your radiator fins are vertical or horizontal on that car, but when you take the radiator cap off, can you see the ends of the fins....and do they look clean (ie. not all gunked up which would restrict coolant flow thru the radiator).

    Is there an air purge screw on your thermostat housing (ie. no air block in the engine).

    If you still aren't getting flow, I'd pull the thermostat out completely, and then verify that you have good coolant flow thru the radiator even at low temperature.
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    In regards of the Mazda protege

    No i didn't replace the hose. But i did put a new head gasket on ,but i bought an 1.8 and just recently found out that the engine size is a 1.5 could that be the reason it wont crank.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    oooooppsss....

    Check your parts house, and see whether it's the same or different part number for the different engines.

    When you took the head off, did you look to match up the gasket against the original?
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    Yes, i did match it up and it matched perfectly, but the hose stills gets tight and it wont crank. What is the problem???????/
  • I just put a used air compressor on my 2001 mazda protege DX.
    Well today it would not shift into overdrive, the battery light came on, and then the air conditioner stopped blowing cold air.

    But as soon as I started slowing down to make
    a turn back onto the rd. I live on the battery light went off and the air started working again.

    So I decided to drive it around a little more and when I got back on the main highway and started picking up speed it started doing the same thing all over again. As long as I drive about 20 to 35 miles an hour it's fine but when I try to go faster it will not shift to overdrive the battery light comes back on and the air stops blowing cold air.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated alot.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You didn't mention in your first post that the engine wasn't turning over. Symptoms were overheating. Your engine not cranking is a totally different problem than overheating.

    Do I understand your symptom is when you hit the starter, it is not able to turn the crank of the engine?

    If so, then it is possible that you put the head back on and the timing is off. When the starter is turning the crank and pushing the piston up into the cylinder during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve needs to open to get the air out of the cylinder. If your timing is off, then when the piston tries to move up the exhaust valve is closed, the air has no place to go, and it puts too much resistance against the starter.

    Alternatively, if there is a leak of coolant into the cylinder during the compression stroke, that will stop the crank as well. Fluid can't be compressed.

    Did you align the marks when putting it back together?
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    SO do u think i should just get a new head, or is it another problem. The timing was set. Can u just tell me exactly what i need to do to fix the problem. Its a stick it will crank but once u let your foot off the gas it will shut off, and the radiator hose gets really tight.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,583
    Try tightening your drive belts.

    MODERATOR

  • My 2002 Mazda Protege had air conditioning service done at the dealership just a month ago. More freon was added and the system was checked for leaks. Besides having to add more freon, the dealership stated there was nothing wrong.

    I now notice that when I'm driving, the air seems to lose a bit of pressure and then come back. I notice a slight decrease in temp as well when this happens. Also, while driving, when the air starts acting up, it feels like my car accelerates a slight bit and then goes back to normal. When I'm at idle and I have the air problem, I'll step on the gas and it feels like the car wants to jump out of its body.

    The temp isn't what bothers me most, its the slight acceleration then decelaration of the car while driving at a steady speed. Any idea on what this could be? I had someone tell me it could be the compressor.
  • jcbourgjcbourg Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My 1997 Mazda Protege was rear-ended last week. The left corner of the rear bumper got punched in when the driver behind me tried to pass me in a right turn-off lane. Since that accident has occured I've noticed that the car's electrical circuit indicator (the battery) frequently lights up for about half an hour and then turns off. Could this be caused by the accident or is it a separate event?

    Thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    My 1997 Mazda Protege was rear-ended ... the car's electrical circuit indicator (the battery) frequently lights up ... Could this be caused by the accident

    Yes, very possible. I had a similar event happen to my previous Toyota Corolla which caused by flashers to become neurotic (they flashed doubletime). I brought it in for service and the dealer adjusted the electrical wiring; it was not a costly job.
  • jcbourgjcbourg Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. I'm taking my car in to the Mazda repair shop Wednesday morning. Thye will be checking out the electrical system.
  • ranay85ranay85 Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem! My car is getting fixed as we speak!
  • Well I have a 92 protege been a great car. But everytime we turn the car on the brake light comes on and stays on til we turn it off again. The brake fluid is fine. The break pads are crappy though and we are going to change them today, just wondering if anything else could cause this. I also have a geo prizm and the light came on like that we changed the pads and it has never done it again. So i hope thats the reason the lights on in a protege.
  • Are you refering to the emergency brake light indicator on the the dashboard or the hi-mount brake light in the rear window? :confuse:
  • Hi. 99 protege. Where can I find out what the diagnostic codes mean? thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Just google OBD to see the OBD-II - On-Board Diagnostic System.
  • I have a 97 Protege and I am trying to change the brake lights. I unscrewed the two screws right outside where the trunk comes down and pushed out on the assembly, but it is sticking and I can't pop it out. Are there more screws I am missing?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I am trying to change the brake lights

    You may want to check http://protege5.ugly.net
    It includes the entire factory workshop manual for the 2002 Protege manual which may shed some light on your problem.
  • I have my own 1997 manual and it doesn't actually help at all. It just has a small picture that makes it appear that I am doing everything as I should.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Hmmm ...

    p.s. the cool thing about online manuals in PDF is that you can "blow up" the images to get a more detailed view.
  • Yes, that would be very helpful if it was a 1997 Protege manual. However, it's not the case, and the lighting assembly is different, which I have verified by already looking closely at the PDF.
  • debd86debd86 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 mazda protege that was given to me. It has a 1.6 liter engine. When I am going 70 MPH the rpm is around 3000, is this normal? I am just wondering because I have been driving a van for the past 10 years and it is around 2000 rpm at 70 mph. I love the gas mileage this car gets! Thanks.
  • 11b33t11b33t Posts: 51
    :shades: ..it's all good! Mazda Pro engines luv the high RPMs. My 92 LX (1.4l DOHC) crusies at 85-90 mph with the tach +/- 4100...
  • My worst half felt like a mechanic one morning and messed around under the hood:( Now speedometer doesn't work The RPM no work:{ I know it has something to do with the fuses. So that's covered. My worry is theres a few hoses unplugged under the hood. My car is missing now. I think thats what you call it. Can anyone send me a picture of whats under their hood 1997 5spd dx/lx protege. Maybe I can figure out where those hoses plug into.
  • gibbergibber Posts: 41
    I have a 1999 Protege ES. The window regulator broke(it appears the cable got off track and snapped the plastic guide on top). I ordered a new one, however, the new one has the wrong connectors! I checked several websites which all carry the "replacement" window regulators(item M462930) and they all show the regulator with two connectors, one squarish one to the motor assembly, and another at the top of the window track. However, the original had a small(two wire) connector to the motor, and no connector at the window track(although the mounting holes for the sensor are there). Has anyone had experience replacing these-were the 1999's odd somehow? Also, what is the best way , if possible, to keep the window closed in the meantime?
  • gibbergibber Posts: 41
    I made do by splicing the wires. Apparently the post 1999 protege has some additional power window features(like auto up maybe), but the main two wires appear to be the same. Works OK now.
  • My Protege failed the Georgia emissions. The repair shop
    said the EGR valve was probably bad. The NO's were very
    high (90 points above the allowed limits) The problem is
    that I don't have a clue where the EGR valve is located.
    The shop said it's under the intake manifold. Anyone out
    there in Protege land know?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Try the online manual for the Protege (it's for a later version but it still might give you some clues).

    See http://protege5.ugly.net

    The part is pricey but once you've replaced it you'll see the difference in your emissions tests. You might also want to consider a fuel induction service to really clean out the system.
  • I had my timing belt and other belts (serpentine, etc)changed a week ago. After that, my protege 2000 is squealing like hell every time I accelerate. I sent it back to fix the problem 3 times already, and the problem is still there. They said they replaced the belts twice already. Perhaps I have to learn how to fix it and take the answer to the mechanic guys.... Any help of what could be the problem?
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