Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

1101102104106107183

Comments

  • lonestarlonestar Posts: 15
    Been noticing a "clicking" sound when releasing the brake pedal in my Protege...is this something that's "normal"? I had a Toyota that did the same thing years ago.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    My '95 Protege has the same engine as yours and it also starts a little loud in the morning when it is cold out. Not as loud as say a diesel truck engine, but louder than a Camry. I attribute this to the iron block/aluminum head combo and the lack of sound isolation in the engine bay. So if we are talking about the same thing, it is normal and not a problem.

    If anyone is looking for a cheap driving thrill, then attend the Mazda revitup competition at a city near you. I was at the St. Louis event a couple of weekends ago and had a good time. $40 gets you 10 timed runs in new Mazda 3s and 6s. Eight runs are practice and two are a competition where the fastest time at each weekend event wins an all expense paid trip to the national event at Leguna Seca. I finished 115 out of 906 drivers, not bad for my first try at racing real cars. Oh, and the new Mazda 3 is definitely more fun to drive than my '95 Protege.
  • I should have added a little more, there is a problem when it takes 3-4 min. for it to fire off. It cranks over fine but it is not getting ignition or fuel at first and has happened every time outside air temp drops into the 30's. I was hoping this has been a common problem and some else has had this too. I am not getting a check engine light so it makes it even harder to trouble shoot. I pulled Thermo sensor out and ohmed it out and got 192 k ohms cold at room temp.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,855
    Mazda Mania

    Welcome to the Mazda Mania Weekly Chat!

    Liven up your evening and join your fellow enthusiasts every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!
    The chat room opens 15 minutes before the scheduled chat time, so come early and get a good seat! Hope to see YOU there on Tuesday!

    Mazda Mania Chat Room

    PF Flyer
    Host
    Pickups & News & Views Message Boards

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? pf_flyer@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Change the plug wires.

    Meade
  • kato8kato8 Posts: 11
    1999 Protege ES with automatic transmission (42,000 miles). Recently had alignment. Car rides straight with no vibration at highway speed. However, if you hit passing gear (down shift), there is a vibration that only goes away when the transmission upshifts again. There is no vibration as long as you don't downshift.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    A dirty one can cause the engine controller to make the engine run roughly.

    Other things to try: clean injectors, clean valves (you might try an extended highway trip to burn-off some carbon deposits first...it's easier).
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    That other stuff is more expensive, and the plug wire problem has been documented extensively.

    Meade
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    I bought my 03 Pro ES manual in November. I run the AC everyday. I've got probably 11k miles on the car. Recently we've been hit with a scorching heat wave. This car's AC can only be termed anemic...running full blast, recirc, the darn car takes 20 minutes to cool down to a comfortable level - sub 70 degrees. The AC is blowing cool air in the center of the stream, with warm fringing the edges.

    Are all pro AC units this weak?
  • lawman1967lawman1967 Posts: 314
    isn't quite that bad, but its nowhere near as powerful as the 02 Galant, my last car, about which I also complained of weak AC.

    It doesn't take 20 minutes to cool my car, but it has to run on full-blast to overcome the recent heat.
  • jjj321jjj321 Posts: 11
    This car would be perfect if not for its very and I mean VERY weak AC.
    Rented a Neon last week and even do that car was not to my liking its AC rocked. Made me wish that my 2003 Pro ES air had half the power.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    Who would expect that in 2004 you can't get a decent AC system on a new car? Bums me out as I use my ac even in the winter.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    My 2000 Protege ES with 74,500 miles on it continues to be the only car I've ever owned where I find myself turning UP the thermostat because I'm too cold -- and I'm a big guy too.

    BTW, it hit 91 with high humidity Sunday and the a/c worked just fine!

    Meade
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Posts: 166
    I didn't have any problems with A/C living in South Florida. It took about 10 minutes to get going on a hot, sunny day, but it was fine.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    I find GM has the most powerful AC units. Nobody else comes even close in my opinion.

    My '99 Protege has an adequate AC unit. The one in my wife's '03 P5 is fine, if the computer doesn't decide to cycle it off due to competing demands for power. I noticed that it turns off when I ask for more than mild acceleration (as when merging onto roads, passing etc.). I hate when cars try to think for me too much. I guess they decided it would make the power loss due to running the compressor less noticeable. However, it means the AC takes longer to cool the cabin or it blows warm air instead of cool air.

    I prefer the fully-manual AC in my older Protege. When I want more oomph (like merging onto the freeway), I turn off the AC myself and then turn it back on after I've got up to speed. The auto-off function in my wife's P5 surprised me. I thought the AC had failed (the button was pushed-in, but the light was off) at first. No wonder my wife thinks her AC sucks (though she maintains she's never noticed it turning itself off while accelerating). I think it works fine when it's on. Of course, her car has a black leather interior, which doesn't help.
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    Why would you want your cabin sub-70 degrees? Maybe you should put wheels on your fridgidaire.

    Try using a windshield shade and opening the windows until the interior is down to ambient temperature.

    What color is your pro?
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Posts: 163
    I guess this is going to be another preference issue. I hardly ever use my a/c as the heat doesn't bug me much and it does get very humid here (30C+ with humidity yesterday). So I also have to turn down (or is up) the temp as I find the car too cold for me on the hwy when I do use it. Never use it in the city, ever. Oops, unless its raining of course.
    I hate it when I go into people's houses and they have their a/c just cranked inside so you have to wear your winter sweater to stay warm, I don't understand?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I was riding with my boss across town a few summers ago, and it was a typical, 90-degree-plus summer day here in Richmond, with terminal humidity. Normally, upon getting into my car on a day like this, I'd reach for the a/c and immediately crank it up to full arctic blast. He didn't turn on his a/c -- he just rolled down the window.

    I began to get hot and asked him why he wasn't using his a/c. He then told me that he prefers not to use it, because when he does, the blast of hot air he gets when stepping out of the vehicle makes him sweat once he gets inside wherever he's going.

    At first I thought he was insane (like most bosses are, right?) but I began trying his little method -- not leaving the a/c off, but not using it full-blast like I used to. Sure enough, the old f__t was right -- I now prefer getting the car down to a comfortable (not "Antarctic Winter", but comfortable) temperature, then I crank the thermostat up to about 10 or 11 o'clock and set the fan speed to 1 or 2. I stay comfortable, as opposed to having ice form on my legs and arms like I used to do, and when I get out of my car and walk across the street to the office, I don't break out in a sweat like I used to do when I left a 60-degree car and faced a 95-degree rush of air when I left the car.

    It works!

    (BTW, in case you're gonna use what I just said against me, I will say that I apply the above scenario when I'm wearing a business suit on workdays ... on weekends, when I'm in a pair of shorts and a T-shirt and heading to Home Depot, I turn that baby to Siberian Popsicle and let it freeze my feet to the floor.)

    Meade
  • kaiserheadkaiserhead Posts: 166
    I knew a guy who delivered appliances in South Florida and never had the A/C on in the truck even on the hottest humid days. He claimed that the constant change in temperature from getting in and out of the truck made him sick, makes sense.

    Being a native Canadian, I never got used to the heat in South Florida and had the Protege A/C on full cold all the time. I thought that the little 1.6L engine would have trouble keeping up with full A/C and the demands of SoFla driving, but it did fine.
  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    Why would you want your cabin sub-70 degrees? Maybe you should put wheels on your fridgidaire.


    Why wouldn't I? I keep my other car's climate control at 67. Every car I've ever owned I've run the AC all year round. I'm comfortable between 60 and 72-73. I don't mind below 60 but I loathe over 75. I moved to San Diego over a decade ago to avoid the miserable heat of the Sierras (over 80 degrees from april thru september) where I grew up.

    >>Try using a windshield shade and opening the windows until the interior is down to ambient temperature.<<

    Leave the windows down and pop the sunroof. That means the car's just as hot as the outside air. That doesn't solve any problems.

    >>What color is your pro? <<

    Unfortunately, dark green. If only there'd been a white or silver one available. Cool - temp wise - colors that keep clean for long periods.
Sign In or Register to comment.