Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • jjnjjn Posts: 3

    I am replying to my own posting. Has anyone been able to figure out the cause of the problem I described in message 2188? The dealership said they will 'look ' at it again, but, I think until I can come up with the cause, they will say the same thing ' Can not duplicate the noise'.

    They want me to wait till the problem is severe enough that they can actually see it without needing to troubleshoot.

    This is very frustrating. If I knew what the problem was then I would expect they would pay me...Anyway, any help would be apprecitated.

  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    jjn, I'm not sure about your problem.

    I had clunking over bumps, and had my front and rear stabilizer links replaced yesterday. My car drives reeeeeally well now, and no more clunking.

    Good luck!
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    I use a bottle of Techron every 6 months to clean injectors. You may try a bottle for each of tne next few fillups to see if that works.
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Try one of the oil change places (Jiffy Lube, etc.). When I owned an auto trans car, I used to tkae it to Jiffy Lube about every 25,000 miles for a flush. I don't think it cost much more than $30 at the time (been a few years), but I expect it will still be MUCH cheaper than having the dealer do it.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    How much?

    I haven't gotten around to doing anything about mine yet.

    P.S. Do you have an extended warranty, and if so, were they covered?

  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I actually tried using some high-strength cleaner in the gas tank about a month or so ago. It didn't change anything, so then I added another one when the gas tank was nearly empty (hoping to send a concentrated amount of the cleaner to the injectors, but that didn't make a difference either.

    The nearest Mazda dealer (and not one I trust, based upon past experiences) swears that only a professional cleaning will work fully and pretty much said that those bottled cleaners didn't do a good job, but I don't trust this dealer anyway . . . I think he wants to make a sale.

    Does anyone know anything about this vehicle speed sensor that is part of the manual transmission?
  • syd968syd968 Posts: 27
    When driving my 2001 Mazda Protégé for more than 3 hours at highway speeds with the A/C ON the blower freezes up. The A/C is set on fresh mode and the fan speed is set either on speed 1 or 2 the whole time. When the blower freezes up you can turn the fan speed up to 3 or 4 but all you get is a hissing noise coming from the blower. The little bit of air that still comes out of the vents when the blower freezes up is still cold. When the blower freezes up I turn the A/C off and the fan off. If you put your hand on the heater box (I think this is the heater box - the black box on the left side behind the glove compartment) you can feel water condensation has built up on it. This water condensation then drips onto the passenger floor. After leaving the A/C and fan off for about five minutes to unfreeze the blower works again and I can turn the A/C and fan on again. If I continue to leave the A/C on at this point it will freeze up again about every 2 hours while driving on the highway.
    This car has had this problem since I purchased it new in 2001. I've had it looked at by Mazda 3 times and have had a new fan blower installed, but this has still not solved the problem.
    Has anyone out there experienced the same problems? Any ideas for how they (Mazda)can fix this? Thanks!
  • jbolltjbollt Posts: 734
    You may have a clogged/blocked/kinked drain line. If you don't see water on the ground underneath the car a few minutes after turning off the car and parking...after driving with the A/C on, it would tend to confirm this. The condensation is probably backing up and freezing up "the works" so to speak.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    and fan at lowest setting is not recommended by many. try keeping the fan at a higher speed.
  • riopelleriopelle Posts: 132
    >Cross posted on Protege list<

    Hi Pro folks.

    My P5 is at 32,000 miles and will be 3 yrs old nex week. Mazda recommends a 3 yr/30k maintenance that includes flushing the engine and replacing the spark plugs, amongs other things, totally about $350. I have reservations that an engine would need new plugs this quick since most engines don't need a tune-up until 100k, Any advice?

    Does the new 2.3 in the 3 have the same maintenance schedule? I am tempted to save the bucks and put them toward a new 3 if my 5 really needs this,

    Thanks everyone.
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    I think it depends on what the problem is. If there is carbon or varnish restricting the injector orifices, techron is reported to be quite useful. If there are chunks of rock, metal, etc. in the way, then it will take high pressure to dislodge them.
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    I did some more research and I don't think the vehicle speed sensor is the issue. As civilleti suggested, it is likely related to carbon or varnish buildup in fuel injectors or valves.

    Is Techron the best fuel system cleaner? There are MANY of them, all claiming to be the best.

    Thanks again!
  • compensatecompensate Posts: 212
    Anyone heard of K100 Fuel treatments? I found the site while browsing the internet.

    It seems to be good stuff, based upon testimonials and other information on the website.

    I don't think I can post the product link without violating policy on this board, but you should be able to find it by searching for K100 Fule Treament.

    Any advice?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    30K is actually the norm for plugs. The cars that have come out in recent years advertising "no tuneups until 100K" are really pushing the envelope, from what my mechanic friend tells me. Heat and carbon buildup are going to destroy plugs just as fast as they always have. Besides, changing plugs costs about 10 bucks and you can do it yourself. By the way, change your plug wires while you're at it.

  • dianebdianeb Posts: 1
    I have read some previous postings on the subject and I am not experiencing the usual symptoms. My only problem (after not driving my '92 for a few months), is when I push the clutch in, sometimes it goes straight to the floor and I have to "pump" it to get it into gear. Am hoping there is an easy fix?!
  • reitrofreitrof Posts: 122
    I am assuming it is a hydraulic clutch. sounds like you have air in the line or the master cylinder for the clutch is gone.

    If it is the master cylinder, find a used one at a junk yard.
  • aj2000aj2000 Posts: 1
    I own a 1996 Protege with 68,000 miles. I recently took it to a local gas station for a smog test. It failed the System Malfunction Light test. The statement reads "This vehicle failed the MIL/check engine light due to failure to successfully complete all OBD self tests." He said drive the car around for about 60 - 100 miles and bring it back. I drove it around 68 miles, took it back and it failed the same test. He said bring it back after a couple of days after I drove it around for another 100 or so miles. It passed every other test but this test. I only drive the car about 25 - 30 miles a say. Low mileage. He said there wasn't anything that could be replaced or repaired. Any suggestions?
  • jjayantjjayant Posts: 3
    My '98 Pro trunk release has broken, (seems the cable broke inside). The problem is the car didnt had the trunk lock in working condition when i bought it, so i can not open the trunk now.. showed it to a local mechanic, they told me its a half day job. and may cost $200 or more..Is this cable replacement so dificult and expensive?? Please share if you had similar experience. What would be the most effective way of resolving this..Thanks
  • I have a '99 Protege that has been having a few issues lately. It has often had problems accelerating when coming from a dead-stop, and will take longer then many cars to get up to highway speeds.

    I took it on a trip this weekend and experienced pretty poor highway driving with it. I would get it up to 65 or 70 MPH, and eventually once I was going up a slight incline or even sometimes when I wasn't, the RPM's would rev up from 3000-3200 where I had it, up to 4000 or more.

    Also, when I had the cruise on and wanted to go faster, the car would often not allow me to do this. The RPM's would increases, but no the MPH. I have had 2 experiences since then where I am driving on the highway and the car doesn't want to accelerate and instead wants to quit on me.

    This is very frustrating obviously. Has anyone had similar issues with their car, whether it be a Mazda or other 4 cylinder engine?

    Also, after I the first 1/2 of my drive this weekend, I had parked the car for a day. I wasn't experiencing the issues I was on my way home with accleration on the way to my destination. After the car was parked for a day, it didn't want to start the next morning. After 3 tries it did and I have not had any more problems with that aspect of it since.

    Any advice/help/ideas would be appreciated.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    How many miles are on the car? My 2000 ES just turned 80,000 miles yesterday and still has brilliant acceleration. But then again, I changed my plug wires back in the 40Ks. How old are your plug wires? They can make a BIG difference. Also, when's the last time you had your plugs changed? Air filter changed?

    Give us a little info and maybe we can help!

Sign In or Register to comment.