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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    deteriorating acceleration is a known sympton for that.
  • Hi there...

    My car has 56,000 miles on it only, which is why I'm a bit concerned about the condition its in. I bought it almost 2 years ago with 35,000 on it, and to my knowledge the plug wires have not been changed.

    The air filter was changed on my last oil change, which was about 2700 miles ago. Its almost time for another one.

    What will the plug wires cost to have changed? Sounds minimal, I'm just hoping that would be a possible solution as it sounds like such an easy fix.
  • I haven't had the ignition coil recall done. When was the recall? I purchased the car used 2 years ago with 35,000 miles on it. I now have 56,000 on it.

    Any other ideas if that doesn't seem to be the problem?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    I made a nice, lengthy reply to Curious yesterday, and even checked to make sure it was there, and it was. Now it's gone. C'mon, Edmunds, get your act together!!!

    Here we go again.

    The wires are about $60 from Mazda. They take about two minutes to install and require no tools other than your hands. Don't waste another $50 or $60 paying your dealer's labor charges for this plug-n-play job.

    The coil recall was about two years ago. My 2000 ES had about 40,000 miles on it when the recall was done, and I was experiencing NO driveability or other symptoms when it was done. To this day I still don't know what the difference in the two coils is.

    Take your car into your dealer and let the service writer punch up the VIN to see if the recall has been done. If it was done, there should be a decal on the firewall under the hood to that effect.

    I'm putting my money on the plug wires. The Proteges in our driveway are the third and fourth Proteges I've owned since 1992. The design of the head, with the wires continuing about six inches down inside to the plug caps, allows the wires to get hot and they break down over time. In my experience, I've learned to change them about every 40K miles or my engine starts missing and stuttering.

    Now let's see if this post remains.

    Meade
  • Thanks for the lengthy reply...

    I wrote a couple messages/questions yesterday that seem to have dissappeared also.

    My question was that I'm having trouble just locating the plugs and wires on this engine. I even had a co-worker come out to the car to find them with me.

    Can you help me figure out where to look? Its such a dumb question, but the engine is not like what I'm used to seeing.

    Thanks!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    As you stand in front of the opened hood, look down in the center of the engine bay. You'll see the valve cover of the engine running cross-wise in the center. The four wires disappearing into the center of it, in a straight line left to right, are the plug wires. They run from there over toward the front right, where they plug into the coil. They're not very long -- the shortest is about a foot long and the longest is maybe two feet long. If you pull one out of the head (they just pop off with a pull), you'll find that it continues about six inches down into the head where it plugs into the top of the plug.

    I did a quick search and found this photo that might help you. See the big silver valve cover, with the four wires coming out toward you? They join together and go over toward the right, behind the radiator and forward of the oil filler cap, where they plug into the coil.

    http://superstreetonline.com/roadtests/p25738_image_large.jpg

    Meade
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    the air filter?
  • Thanks for the photo and explanation...however, my engine looks a bit different then that.

    I'll go down to the car at lunch and see if I can figure it out.

    Thanks!
  • fortunefortune Posts: 3
    Bought a 99' Protege about 3.5 yrs ago with about 56k highway miles on it from a dealer. It's got about 80k now.

    I drove it home from work one day and everything seemed fine. I started it up, it stalled cause I didn't let off the clutch quite right.

    I tried to start it again, and the engine had seized up. Took it to a mechanic and a dealer and both said there is nothing they can do.

    It had plenty of fluids, regular oil changes and really wasn't driven that much (25k miles in about 3.5 years).

    Is there anything to be done other than junk it? 3-5k for a junk yard or "Mazda rebuilt engine" doesn't seem worth it.

    Doesn't seem like there is any way that should have happened :(

    Was thinking about a Mazda3 to replace it but from those forums it looks like they aren't doing to well either......
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Did they say what was wrong with it?

    Meade
  • fortunefortune Posts: 3
    They just said the engine seized up. An independent shop and a dealer both said the same thing. It would take a rebuilt or junkyard engine to get it back in working condition.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Is it possible your drain plug or filter were loose?

    My '00 ES is running great at 80,300 miles.

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Did you figure it out?

    Meade
  • fortunefortune Posts: 3
    Nope, no idea. I now absolutely nothing about cars and that's all both places had to say. 80,300 is about exactly what this one had.
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    Hello all...

    My first question deals with my 2001 ES. Every now and then (...and mostly then) there is a slight hesitation when I hit the accelerator...it does not feel like a spark plug issue...it seems to be more of a throttle body issue. I may be mistaken about the Pro, but I owned a Corsica that had the same type of driving feel and it was the throttle body. This doesn't seem to be adversely affecting the car's driveability...it just seems more noticeable than my previous Galant. Any thoughts? I want some info, since I'll be taking the car in for its NYS inspection next week. (NYS now has the 2nd highest inspection prices because of new emissions legislation that went into effect June 04...can't wait for that bill!)

    My second question deals with my mother's 2003 ES. VERY infrequently, she'll experience a jolt of sorts at exactly 40 MPH. It happened to me once when driving her car during the winter, but I assumed it was tire slippage from an ice-covered manhole cover/roadway and didn't give it much thought. In 25,000 miles, this has probably happened three times so it'll be very hard for the dealership to duplicate. I've looked at TSB's online and see nothing that would apply. Any thoughts? I want to start addressing this as early as possible during the warranty period.

    Meade...I came out of my local Cracker Barrel and parked right next to my 2001 ES was a brand new M3 wagon in pumpkin! I thought of you immediately! In WNY, if you see a pumpkin colored car, its either a Cadillac CTS or a Nissan Murano...the pumpkin color is not very popular at all!

    Thanks for any input.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Thanks for thinking of me! I must say I'm at a crossroads between Screaming Pumpkin and Blooberry (Winning Blue) right now.

    Your questions, my responses ...

    (1) My 2000 ES frequently does a (very) slight "urp" when taking off from a stop. I have accepted it as a quirk of the car. It's always been there, and has never gotten any worse even after plug & wire changes. (Keep in mind I have a manual transmission and this happens when first rolling in first, a microsecond after engaging the clutch -- and it still does it after a new clutch, flywheel and throwout bearing, so it ain't the tranny.)

    (2) Speaking of plug and wire changes ... I had read other owners talking about that sudden "kick in the rear" but had never experienced it myself UNTIL ... one day on the Interstate when I was going about 65, and the car had about 40,000 miles on it. It felt like another car had tapped me on the rear and scared the be-you-know-what out of me. I had been meaning to change my plug wires, since it was high time to do so, and surmised that a sudden short from one of the wires to the wall of the tunnel inside the valve-cover head would do it. Besides, it was a wet, snowy winter day and it hadn't been too long since I left home. It's foreseeable that a little moisture remained in down in the plug-top tunnels, and caused a short.

    Well, to make a long story short I replaced the wires. And by the way, several of them looked pretty well scorched down where the wire entered the boot that attaches to the top of the plug.

    Forty thousand miles later, I have never experienced the "kick in the rear" again.

    It's amazing how many things go away on Proteges when you change the plug wires.

    Meade
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Hey--

    I have an 00 ES automatic, and I, too, have been kicked in the pants at highway speeds. Like your mom, maybe 4 times in as many years of ownership, so I've never mentioned it at the dealership. (They already have enough reasons to laugh at me.)

    At 38K miles, the wires haven't been changed yet...it will be interesting to see if this problem goes away when I take care of that.

    I've talked with other Protege owners who have experienced the same issue, but it doesn't seem to have affected long-term driveability.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Where ya been?

    Meade

    P.S. 38K on an '00? Oh, if I were so lucky ...
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    I'm right here. :)

    I posted a response to your query a week or so ago, but it got lost in the Great Server Upgrade. ;)
  • oskwioskwi Posts: 88
    Gee, I don't know Meade...you may want to quit your day job and find employment at Mazda in the "Car Color Naming Department"! At least the average consumer would be able to know about what "Screaming Pumpkin" would look like...as opposed to colors such as "Moondust" and the sorts. Having never been to the moon, "moondust" could be grey, white, beige, etc. That always drives me nuts!

    Anyway, I'll be changing both the spark plugs and wires this coming week so I expect to see improved performance. As far as the "urp", it comes and it goes and seems directly related to heat and humidity. When I purchased the car last September, winter fast approached and I don't remember the car behaving with the slight hesitation. Oh well! My previous Galant would experience a hard thunk from the rear end when under hard acceleration from a dead stop. Nothing was ever found and nothing ever occurred as a result of this in 185,000 miles. Every car has its quirks.

    The "rear end tap", as I'll refer to it as, does not seem threatening by what you both have mentioned here. I'll mention it in passing at the dealership but I expect them to just look at me like I've grown a third arm! :) Darn quirks...I demand perfection! I guess I'll have a long wait...

    I would assume, and you know what they say about assumptions, that you live near Chicago, "chicagopro". I lived out in Wisconsin for about a year and loved traveling to Chicago...however the seven hour traffic jams when trying to cross that skyway bridge (don't remember the exact name) are not something to miss!

    Thanks again,
    Garth
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