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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • catcarrcatcarr Posts: 1
    i have a 1994 protege with 92k miles. it has never had engine problems, but it does have one other hugely annoying problem. when i drive, it vibrates like crazy. i've had new tires, balancing, and alignment twice since i acquired the car a year ago, plus new brakes and rotors. nothing stops the vibrating. not only does it vibrate, but it makes a thumping noise when i brake (sounds like CV- joint, only it doesn't occur when i turn the wheel) . . .we have spent somewhere in the neighborhood of $2000 on this car (radiator also cracked and had to be replaced). if anyone knows what this could be, it would help. i've been considering maybe shocks, struts? it sounds like it's about the tires somewhere.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    No, it's not a buzzing or rattling. It's a squeak the door makes when you press on the rear part of the trim. If you don't press on it, it doesn't make any noise at all.

    I do want to take mine back sometime while it's under warranty and get my shop to adjust my driver's side window -- it rattles a little if it's down less than about three or four inches. Nothing too terrible, just a minor annoyance in an otherwise flawless car.

    Meade
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If you've spent $2k already, it's time to see a different mechanic. It sounds like you have a bent wheel or warped rotors. With all the work you have had done, somebody should have noticed these.

    :)
  • Love the wifes protege, 48,000 care free miles. At about 46K, the Check Engine Light remains on. All fluids are good, runs great, same great gas mileage. What gives? What needs checking/replacing? Any suggestions?
    Todd
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    Probably needs to be checked with a OBII scanner to accurately diagnose reason light is on. Unless it was due to a loose gas cap. If that were the case, might try disconnecting negative battery cable and reconnecting to shut off light. But I doubt if it will work.
    From what I'm gathering, a scanner is needed to reset the light as well.
  • catiejcatiej Posts: 1
    Shopping at Fremont Mazda was a nightmare!!!
    I spoke with a sales rep. (Joesoph) and he and
    the head manager played the game "bate and switch".
    A price was given on a specific model and when
    I drove there with a check in hand, the deal vanished. They want more money for the same car
    I came to buy... The manager was very rude and he didn't care what was promised to me! This would have been the 6th Mazda purchased. This has to be the worst Dealership I ever came across!

    DON'T Shop at Fremont Mazda, if you want a good deal!!!
  • fritz1224,
    turns out, the light only came on after my wife left the gas cap at the filling station. We bought an aftermarket cap that fits fine. I disconnected the Neg cable as suggested, light is still on. Where can I get this OBll scanner? I'm used to working on and builing engines in the pre fuel injected/internet days. How can I get it scanned, or other suggestions?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Scanners range in price from $200-$300 for basic units to about $4,000 for professional models such as the Snap-On MT2500 with all the adapter cables and cartidges. If you're considering buying one go to the link below. Scroll down to Scanners and Diagnostic Tools. Otherwise any shop which has one with an up to date import cartridge will be able to extract/clear stored diagnostic trouble codes.

     http://www.batauto.com/links.html
  • We have a 2000 Protege DX with only 5,000 miles on it.
    Recently, on a long trip, we heard a strange squeak -- somewhere between a squeak and a sigh.
    We only heard it a couple of times after three hours of interestate driving. But it was such an odd noise that it concerned both my husband and me. It was hard to pinpoint where it came from, but it sounded like either the heater, the radio (which was off) or, god forbid, the transmission.
    Anyone else heard anything like this?
    Thanks
  • Before you spend three figures on a scan tool, spend something in the low two figures on a proper Mazda OEM fuel cap, and see if the problem goes away. If fuel pressure isn't just so, OBD II will report a problem, and you never know exactly what pressure you're getting from someone else's cap.
  • norcannorcan Posts: 72
    Maisemaid. Re. Weird squeak.
    If you go to Mazda Protege owner's club, (Sedans)you will see several posts about a slight 'whistle' or 'whine' at certain speeds. Seen especially around 75-80 mph. Even though no one seems to know what is making the noise, there seems to be no cause for concern. Most likely a 'resonant frequency'.
    The 2nd possibility is wind noise - leak around a window - unlikely by your description.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    The whine is from the differential and is just a charachteristic of the 99-01 Protege. So far, I haven't heard of any problems associated with the whine.

    :)
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    the whine is due to the gear tooth form(square or trapezoidal) which allows for max metal to metal pressure on gear tooth - creates a whining sound. no problem. -basic mech. engg.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    hey maltb, still waiting for your valuable assistance :)
  • I test drove a new 2001 ES auto today and really liked how it handled. However, I definitely noticed a subtle vibration transmitted through the steering wheel while the car was in motion. I also own a Subaru Forester and Nissan Maxima and don't feel it with those vehicles. It doesn't seem to detract from the accuracy of the steering, but it's just there. Is this normal?
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    probably the tires were out of balance.. it will shake bad if its out of whack.
  • On post 314, I referred to a steering vibration on a 2001 ES. Yesterday, I went to another dealer and test drove another one, and this time, NO vibration, so nikecar (thanks for your response), I bet you're right about the tires.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    no prob... ours when we got it shaked abit too. Took it back and they said the tires were way out of balance.. sometimes dealers don't do the entire pre0inspection and prep.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Posts: 10
    Hi friends,

    1997 Mazda protege 60000 miles.

    The check engine light is on and got the error
    codes by a dealer.
    P1170
    P0176
    P0505

    Anyo suggestion?
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Posts: 765
    P1170 is an oxygen sensor (which might also explain things in the P017x range, which deals with fuel trim); P0505 is the idle air control (not necessarily the valve itself). Replacing the O2 sensor probably ought to be the first order of business.
  • yangkryangkr Posts: 1
    I bought a used car from a Mazda dealer shop in Austin (December, 2000).

    Air filter is soaked whenever it rains relatively heavy. (Of course,it is already soaked while parked in front of my place before driving)
    I would have to take out the filter to be dried each time it happen.. But, it doesn't always work. Of course, I would have to stop running the vehicle when seeing the engine warning signal and/or smelling engine burns while driving.

    Finally, this early morning my car stop on the way to school. I was so much scared..

    Just wonder how the water leaks through the air filter container box when it rains.

    Would anyone have any similar problems to mine? Also, any comments or advices are welcome. Thanks.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Posts: 10
    No, the deealer said they need 3 hours (about 200$) to find out the problem.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I remember reading somewhere that if the fender was replaced and not properly sealed with body caulking, it could channel water right into the air box. I think it only happens when the vehicle is parked at a particular angle.

    What to do:
    Park the car where you normally do. Take a hose and turn it on with a slow flow going over the top of the fender and hood. Then lift the hood and look to see where traces of water have gone. You should be able to trace it and seal the proper areas.

    :)
  • mpshutempshute Posts: 6
    Anyone know the trick to remove the rear wheel cylinder's on this car. After removing the wheel, there are two screws on the cylinder which I removed. Have not had any success removing it after doing this. The only other thing I can think of is there is a small cap that looks like it could be removed, maybe providing access to another nut of some kind but I don't think this would be probable. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as I'm trying to avoid purchasing the $115 manual from the dealer! Thanks,

    Matt
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    just those two bolts.... Give the cylinder a few light taps with a hammer to loosen any rust and should come right off. You have removed the brake shoes, right? Also that small cap on the back is the cover for the bleeder screw. If you aren't sure what that is, I suggest you seek some help from an enlightened friend.

    Also, factory shop manuals are worth every bit of the $100 they cost. NEVER waste your time with a Chilton's or Haynes.

    :)
  • dhkchengdhkcheng Posts: 6
    Hello, I have a 2000 Protege LX (Canadian Car) with the
    Bridgestone Potenza RE92 (195/55.15) tires. After about
    3500KM of use the tires started to develop whine between
    50KPH to 80KPH. Has any other owners of Proteges reported
    simular issues with these tires? The whining was not that bad
    during the winter, but now that it is summer, the whining is
    getting alot worse.

    Thanks in advance.
    David Cheng
    Belleville, Ontario
    CANADA
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    ...I. have talked to says the Potenzas are noisy. Maybe that's why the 2001s are coming with Dunlops.

    :)
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    My wife drives 2000 ES (Auto) that now has about 9K miles on it. The fuel economy has been bad to terrible since the day one. At t5he beginning I thought that after breaking in the car it would improve. Well 9K seems enough to me. When complained earlier this year, the dealer said that it's because of the "winter" gasuline here in Northern CA (SF Bay Area) and that nothing is wrong. True - MTBE and other oxygenates decrease the MPG figure, but not to that extent I believe.
    Now the fuel is not "winter" type and the car is still doing 22 MPG on 70% city 30% hwy driving.
    And she's not a heavy foot by all means. Tried different gas - almost no difference (Chevron seems to be the best btw). Before the last oil change I used a bottle of Techron injector cleaner - didn't help.

    I thing that's horrible for such a car (EPA 24-29).

    What do you guys think? Anybody from Northern CA to share their numbers?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    There are so many factors that affect mileage.

    What speed does she drive on the highway?
    Does she vary the throttle excessively when cruising?
    Quick starts?
    A/C or defrost on all the time?
    Very hilly terrain?

    My suggestion would be to swap cars and run a tank of gas through there on your own.

    :)
  • dhkchengdhkcheng Posts: 6
    Has any other Protege owner tried running on a higher octane fuel
    then the 87 octane recommended in the owners manual? and if so,
    did you have any problems using the higher octane fuel?
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