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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Though I discovered that Motor publishes a much nicer service manual than Chiltons or Haynes. However, none had illustrations on where the EGR valve is or how to clean it (just text). However, the local library didn't have recent-enough editions to cover the '99 and later Proteges.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    What a coincidence as I just found an incredible new publication in my public library: Chilton's Asian Service manual. It includes everything from the Acura to the Mazda in volume 1. An amazing work! Not only does it give information about the Protege, Mazda3, Mazda6, etc. but you can also peruse the sections of Honda and other manufacturers to get an idea how they handle brakes, air conditioning, etc. The Mazda section is about a hundred pages and includes drawings and general directions. The earlier Chilton book on the Protege is more specific and detailed (in other words, it's a good thing to look out for in used bookstores).


    For a description of this book, see:
  • i have a 99 lx pro and i had a break job done by a friend and at first things were fine then i had a prob with break fade after having that fixed i had the best brakes of any car i had ever had now right b4 i come to a complete stop i hear a crunching sound i dont know what its from ... any info would be helpful
  • i have a 99 lx pro and when i turn i hear a squeeling i was wondering if anyone knew what it was and also in the morning sometimes when i put the car in reverse i hear a squeel
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    In the troubleshooting section of the Haynes guide for the Protege 1990-2000, it says:

    "Noise (high pitched squeal when the brakes are applied): Front and/or rear disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc (does not apply to all vehicles). Replace pads with new ones immediately Chapter 9)."


    You may want to visit your local garage to check.
  • thanks but someone said that it may b due to loose clamps and i dont think the pads are worn cause the brakes were just put on
  • Hi,


    I have a Mazda protege 1998. I bought it when it had 40 K on it. Following are the things I took care of when my vehicle was close to 45 K. I changed the transmission fluid and the tires. At around 58 K I got the timing belt changed and other associated repairs. Around 63K the car started to make a squeaking noise. The mechanic said that I had worn out belts. He changed the belts (frankly I dont know which ones) and the water pump. He said the pump change goes with the belt change. Anyway, the car worked fine after that but at around 65 K the squeaking started again. Progressively it has gotten louder and louder.


    Following are the symptoms


    (1)Squeaking starts as soon as the car is on.

    (2)Increase in acceleration is causing more squeaking.

    (3)The squeaking is for the first 5 minutes only. After that my car runs like a real Mazda.

    (4)Squeaking is usually during cold weather.

    (5)Rainy days and an unusual warm winter day results in minimal or no squeaking.


    This may not be associated with squeaking but my car is idling very rough when in gear. The entire car vibrates when I idle in gear. Moving to neutral quietens the vibration considerably.


    Can someone suggest what repairs need to be done and an approximation of how much it will cost.


    I am a still a student. Looking for minimal financial hit
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Tigthen your accessory belt that turns the power steering pump (check your manual). It sounds loose. There's also a spray sometimes called "belt dressing" that temporarily removes the squeal by increasing the friction between your belt and the pulleys, but I'd still make sure you have enough tension in your accessory belts.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Make sure your caliper's piston is able to move freely. Sounds like it may be sticking.


    Also check the flatness of your rotors. If they're warped, they push the piston back, which: 1) prevents the brake pads from keeping the rotor surfaces clean through constant slight contact (which can cause the grinding noise as surface corrosion and contamination accumlate on the rotor) 2) increases the distance the piston needs to travel to a) touch the inner rotor surface and b) pull the caliper to touch the outer pad against the outer rotor surface.


    Also, bleed your brake lines to make sure you don't have air in them. Any air in them will make your brakes feel weak and spongy. Afterwards, make sure the bleed screws/valves are shut completely.
  • seksek Posts: 1
    I recently moved to Georgia and had an emissions inspection for my 2000 Protege ES. The OBDII scanner cannot communicate with my car. I took the car to the dealer and their diagnostic equipment could not communicate either. The car is running great, but the dealer wants to replace the ECU ($1,200) to solve the problem. Does anyone know what else could cause the communication failure? It seems unlikely that its the ECU since their is no CEL and no other symptoms.
  • I have had my car for just over a year and within the last several months anything that hits my windshield causes dings or cracks. Is anyone else having this problem? 2003 Protege ES
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,854
    It's Tuesday, and that means time for our weekly Mazda chat!


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  • Hello; my car check engine light goes on as soon as engine warms up a bit. After a while, the idle gets rough, and the car sometimes stalls. When stalled under those conditions, I have to wait 25 minutes for the car to cool and then it will restart. Have replaced rotor, distributor cap, plugs, PCV valve. The car is running fine otherwise, does not use any oil, and does not overheat under any condition. No gasoline smell either. Any suggestion ? Thank you
  • Yep, it sounds like slipping belt squeal.
  • My 93 Protege failed emissions with a slightly elevated hc reading ( 30 points over max) but the n02 values where twice the allowable max value - so I got a tune-up with a o2 sensor, thermal sending unit, and a catalytic convertor replacement - the shop said it upgraded to a high performance convertor - and long story short the car has been hesitating , and sputtering along every since - while also burning out 3 new catalytic convertors - the third exhaust shop I visited basically told me they had no way of determining what the problem is. Is there a solution?


  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Here are some ideas for solving your problem.


    Rough idle:

    1. Vacuum Leak. Check all hose connections.

    2. Leaking EGR valve.

    3. Air Filter clogged.

    4. Fuel pump not delivering enough fuel.

    5. Leaking head gasket.

    6. Timing belt and/or pulleys worn.

    7. Camshaft lobes worn.


    Engine hard to start when hot:

    1. Air filter clogged.

    2. Fuel not reaching the fuel injection system.

    3. Corroded battery terminals, especially ground.

    4. Faulty coolant temp. sensor or intake air temp. sensor.


    Source: Haynes Automotive Repair Manual, Mazda 323 and Protege, 1990 thru 1997.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    If you have not already cleaned your EGR valve, I just looked under the hood on my '95 1.5 and the valve is located just under the intake manifold near the center of the engine, firewall side. It has two small vacuum hoses on the sides and one electricial clip on the top. It is all metal with a sphere shaped or flat-round head. It is not far from the fuel filter, but much more accessible. It is relatively easy to remove with a swiveling ratchet extension.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Great responses, Joe! I don't have any problems with my Pro5 but I appreciate that there is someone out there looking out for some solutions!
  • Hi,


    I'm a novice when it comes to cars. I don't know anything to be honest. I would be very glad if you help me out with some pieces of advice.


    Here's the story: I bought a Mazda Protege 1999 last fall. Stupid as I am I forgot to ask about if the timing belt was changed. Now the car has approx. 120000 miles. If it hasn't been changed - now it's the time. If if has been changed twice - I guess I still have to have someone check it out. Is it hard for a mechanic to find out if it is time to change it? How much is it approx. to change it? I'm about to sell the car in about four months - is it still worth the trouble? Any ideas?


    Thanks in advance!
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