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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • kkarneskkarnes Posts: 3
    revamp on message

    i have a 1999 mazda protege 68k just stopped running this week turns over has weak to no spark replaced wires and plugs. ordered and tried new ignition coils still didnt work. wondering if it could be the timing belt and if the best way to check timing belt was to remove valve cover. had check engine codes pulled they said ignition or misfire wondered if that could be caused by timing belt any info would be great
  • kkarneskkarnes Posts: 3
    i have a 1999 1.6L protege and on mine you have to remove the ignition coils which are mounted on top of the valve cover to gain access to the spark plugs. kinda a pain just to change plugs
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Yeah, but putting the coil over the plugs is a lot easier than pushing the boot over the plugs. Just don't lose any screws. :)

    I get a little vibration through the steering wheel column of my '99LX (AT-equipped). It's definitely related to the transmission as it's a lot less when I put it into neutral or park. It was really bad after they serviced the AT on my '89 323LX (adjusted bands to resolve a hard 1->2 shift). Not sure where it'd be, but I suspect the torque converter, or the alignment between the transmission and the torque converter.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Don't forget that A, idle speed is usually slightly lower when the trans is in gear, and B when in gear, the engine/transaxle torques and may show up a defective mount.
  • tweedletweedle Posts: 2
    I asked a similar question earlier but no one could help.

    The car: ’93 Mazda Protégé, 5 spd, 1.8l sohc w/ 91K+

    The Problem: Car stalls under the following conditions only
    1. AC must be on
    2. Air temp must be above 70
    3. Car is at normal temp (after 10 min. of driving)
    4. Throttle is quickly closed at RPM >2500
    5. Clutch pedal is completely depressed
    6. Car is in gear

    This happens while driving when approaching as stop sign for example. I step on the clutch while simultaneously releasing the gas pedal. The rpms drop quickly to zero. The car will start instantly by letting up on the clutch or using the starter.

    This NEVER happens if the AC is off, or the air temp is 70 or less, or the car is still warming-up, or the engine speed to begin w/ is less than 2500 rpm or if I slide the shifter into neutral.

    The process can be simulated in the driveway as follows:
    With the car warmed up, AC on, clutch pedal on the floor, tranny in any drive gear if I rev the engine above 2500 RPM and quickly let up on the gas the car will immediately die or drop down to about 200 rpm and sputter back to about 750.

    With the car in NEUTRAL and clutch in any position the rpm will quickly drop to 1100 plateau and then drop slowly to 750. The whole process while in neutral is as smooth as glass.

    The computer gets input from a neutral switch on the tranny. When in neutral, this switch is closed. If I unplug the switch and tape a jumper onto the end of the wire I have no problem and the car drives fine.

    On this car the throttle position switch only tells the computer two throttle positions, wide open or fully closed. If I unplug the TPS, my problem goes away. The switch is adjusted correctly and functions fine. I checked with feeler gauges and ohmmeter.

    The dashpot seems to function fine and I extended the rod all the way, but that did not help. It does appear to slow the throttle closing.

    The engine does get a slight boost when the AC is switched on. It goes from about 700 to 750 per the tach in the dash.

    I checked the plugs, the timing and the fuel pressure. The air flow meter checked out ok too.

    While checking the timing I noticed that the idle is set as low as it can go but is as per spec. The air bypass screw is turned in all the way.

    The idle control valve has a mechanical feature that closes slightly as the coolant flows through and warms up. With the electrical connector unplugged and starting from a cold engine the idle may drop from 1200 to 1100 rpm once the engine is at operating temperature. When I plug in the electrical connector the idle drops back to 700 rpm. I wonder if the mechanical portion is not closing enough. Such a small drop (100 rpm) seems hardly worth having.

    Why does the car die in the above conditions?
    Why does unplugging the TPS or jumpering the neutral swith so the computer thinks the car is always in neutral or never has a closed throttle help?

    Thanks for helping.
  • My 99 Mazda Protege has 40 thousand miles on it. About a month ago, the check engine light came on (steady, not blinking) under normal around-town driving conditions. A mechanic and I looked at it, ran a diagnostic. The code, if I remember correctly, was something like 1401 ... or 1412 ... anyway, the translation as told by autozone clerks was an oxygen-rich system. We all reset the computer and the light stayed off for about a week and a half before popping back on under normal driving conditions once again. I have noticed a rougher idle as well as a slight hesitation during high speeds. Any ideas? I think it may be a mass air flow sensor, but it could also be a clogged EGR valve -- so I'm not sure. How do I check? Or do the codes give it away?
  • I have 70,000 miles on my 2000 Protege and I have a bad ignition coil. I was considering changing them myself and I took a look at the engine today. The other two plugs are indeed under the ignition coils. It looks like an easy job. Is it hard to change spark plugs, don't you have to measure the tips or whatever?
  • ang8504ang8504 Posts: 3
    hey!! there is a recall on the mass air flow sensors in the 99 proteges so you should go and get it fixed and it shouldnt cost u anything (I think) since it is a recall. I have a 99 pro too I have not got mine fixed yet, but I havent really seen any symptoms like u have but i will probably call my local mazda dealer and set up an appt time
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    Have you tried a magnet on a rod?
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    Do folks use Techron regularly? I think it is worth it to keep injectors clean.
  • anronanron Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can find out how to install the oil pan gasket and what is involed in installing it??
  • usinousino Posts: 3
    My Protege lx 1998 fail emission test three days ago. I brought the car with the check engine light on.I didn't have any problem running this car before. The computer reveal P0421:warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 1,2. And P0170:Fuel trim bank 1,2. I dont know whats thats mean. I decides to change spark plugs, wires,Ignition cap, and pvc valve before bringed it for diagnostic. It got worse..... The O/D (over drive) light intermittent, the car did not start. What I did wrong?
  • usinousino Posts: 3
    I changed the spark plugs and wires in my Protege lx 1998 yesterday.I desconnect the battery (pos and neg). The light of the over drive( O/D) is flashing in the dash and the car did not start.check engine is on. Please send me an e mail to . What I did wrong?
  • Karen@EdmundsKaren@Edmunds Posts: 5,024
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  • ang8504ang8504 Posts: 3
    yes we have tried that!! but the magnet was too big to go down the tube and someone told me that the dipstick isnt metal anyway?? but idk! thanks for the help though
  • I have a 97 protege which was given to me(used) by my brother. Before exchange we had is serviced, safetied, emmisions tested, etc. all passing execptionally well. It was driving fine, but the shift (automatic) was quite tight to move until the car warmed up. A few weeks ago (after a cold snap which had -20C with windchills), I went to start the car and it wouldn't start. The radio, fan, door buzzer, and dash lights all came on, but the car did not start. My husband was able to start it in when in Neutral. I thought maybe it was rebelling, as all of it's life it has spent winters in a garage (we live out in the country with no garage or shelter from the elimantes). Now that it has warmed up it seems to be starting fine.
    Any thoughts or suggestions as to what it might be would be helpful as well as advise as to what we can do to avoid this again.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Why not post here for all to see and learn from? My first reaction is, you installed them out of order. Go take a look under the hood of another '98 LX and note how the wires are routed; then compare yours and make absolutely certain they're routed the same way!

  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    1.6L - all plastic

    1.8L & 2.0L - metal shaft with plastic handle
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Easy to do if you have an extended socket, because they're in pretty deep. Use some anti-seize compound on their threads when putting in the new plugs...makes removal a lot easier 30k miles later.

    NGKs are already pre-gapped, and come individually boxed with a cardboard tube to protect the spark end. Champions come packed in blister cards and you have to sometimes adjust the gap as the bent terminal may have been knocked out of position. You can check the gap with any plug gauge (costs about 1-2 bucks). The one with separate wires is better than the one with a continuous outer ridge, but it costs more as it's more involved to manufacture.
  • civiletticiviletti Posts: 86
    Attach a thin tube to a shopvac and suck the mother out.
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