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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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  • vncntsbrvncntsbr Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 mazdz protege dx I am having problems with a rough idle and missing after the engine reaches operating temp. I replaced the o2 sensors with a exact fit and the idle got worst. the old one was a denso and the new one is bosch. the enging will miss when i put it in gear or or when the rad fan turns on or the ac. if i increase the idle speed with the gas pedel there is no problem and no missing. the check engine light is not on. can anyone help me
    thanking you in advance
  • My 2002 P5 has been run dry and cooked the rings. I found a used FS engine that is reported to be from 97-98 626 or 01-03 Protege.
    Can anyone confirm if the same bottom end/ short block will work with both these cars? Should be able to swap accessories and get on the road?

    Just to clarify, my P5 gave nearly 300K miles before it was destroyed by a vengfull X spouse.

    Lolly
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    You'd best identify it more carefully. The part # for a 2001-2003 Protege short block is the same but the 626 is different.

    so if it's a 2001-2003 Protege engine, that's good, but you should still plan on running into some problems as there are bound to be differences in wiring, sensors, or perhaps even how things bolt onto the block.

    Also don't buy a used engine you can't hear run.

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  • I have a 2000 Mazda Protégé LX 1.6L Engine
    The problem is the cooling fans don’t turn on causing the engine to overheat. Here is what I have done so far. (NOTE: Both R/H and L/H fans turn on/off during A/C cycle operation)
    1. Replaced temperature sensor (2-wire sensor. Only one sensor in car)
    2. Replaced relays with new ones.
    3. Removed and checked all applicable fuses under hood
    4. Removed and checked water pump. No problems found
    5. Flushed Radiator
    6.Got rid of engine thermostat
    7. No radiator leaks detected

    If I remove the temperature sensor harness while the engine is running both fans turns on with A/C switch in OFF position. Then check engine light turns on. I suppose it detects a fault in the circuit and runs on protection mode.

    What will be my next step(s) before replacing the ECM?

    Any advise would be greatly apprecaited.

    Thank You
  • Had same thing with my mazad p5 did the sane things truned out tobe the thermostat I know it dose not sound right but I alot of mony to find out that it was a six dollar part
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    alot of mony to find out that it was a six dollar part

    I was thinking something similar. The replacement of parts mentioned in the email did not seem to be in the order I would have guessed. For example, I would have checked the radiator and thermostat early in the process (cheap and easy to do).

    My advice is to bring it in for a diagnosis by a mechanic, hopefully, one familiar with Mazdas. It may be cheaper than replacing more parts.
  • nickbootnickboot Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 2002 Mazda Protege lx with 72,000 miles on it. He is asking 3500$ for it but the blue book is 4100$. What are your opinions about it. It seems like there might be something that's wrong but I don't know
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,890
    Well, we can't see the car either! Have you looked at it or driven it yet?

    If it's in good shape, that seems like a nice price. You might hop over to our Purchasing Used Vehicles discussion to get advice about what to check and how to check.

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  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    2002 Mazda Protege lx with 72,000 miles on it. He is asking 3500$ for it but the blue book is 4100$. What are your opinions about it. It seems like there might be something that's wrong but I don't know

    Why not have it checked by your mechanic? That way you'll reduce the risk of buying someone else's problem.
  • tim_timtim_tim Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Protege. For the past few years (3) I've had my A/C serviced before the beginning of the summer season. Each time (by different service centers) I've been told that nothing is wrong with the system (even though it leaks refrigerant). It gets a full charge of refrigerant but after running for 20-30 minutes the system always freezes up and stops blowing cold air. I can turn the system off for about 5 minutes then turn it back on and it blows cold air for about 10 minutes. I can repeat this cycle indefinitely. I was told yesterday to check my cabin air filter but I can't find that this make/model of vehicle has one. What other solutions are recommended?
  • Had the same problem at the shop i work at. The spring for the timing belt tensior came off and got caught in the exhaust cam gear. It made a horrible scratching noise and hesitated around 2500 to 3400 rpm mostly right at 2800rpm until 3k the cam sensor was reading the problem and would shut down injectors and spark just in between 28 and 3k rpm before it was mostly fine and after it was fine so we checked everything i read probably 50 forums on the same thing and could't find a solution hopefully this helps anyone out there reading this. By the way it was an 01 es 2.0 non turbo not to familiar with these cars but that fixed the problem.
  • stmyersstmyers Posts: 7
    I have been having issues with my 2003 protege es with only 101K miles on it. back in January, I started hearing a noise, like a rattle when I accelerate. I have had 4 different people look at it, they all say change the gas and the most recent one called it a spark knock, and that I need to change the gas. I HAVE CHANGED THE GAS and it still makes the noise. the noise gets really bad when the car has been running a while. I have had 3 censors replaced this year and my fuel enjectors along with my trans. flushed this year. Does anyone know how to get rid of a spark knock and what causes it?
  • stmyersstmyers Posts: 7
    I forgot to ask, mazda tells me my protege does not have a fuel filter, but the place I get my oil changed at says it does, do my 2003 es protege have a fuel filter and if so, how do we change it
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    The High Pressure and the Low Pressure Fuel Filters are located in the Fuel Tank on the Fuel Pump Unit, to replace either Fuel Filter you must remove the Fuel Pump from the Fuel Tank.

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  • did you ever figure it out, im having the exact same problem, replaced fuel pump, ign coil still same prob, please let me know if you figured it out, thanks
  • Hi cmr52305, I just want to say i got the same problem with my 2000 Mazda Protege....and i don't know what cause this? just wonder did you figure out what happened? and how to fix it? please help me...thank you very much you can email me at hoangvu2411@yahoo.com :)
  • hi protejay99, i just got the same problem with you guys. I just wonder did you guys figure out what wrong with it and how to fix it? please help me cause i'm newbie...thank you very much :)
  • The AC belt on my 96 Protege burned off tonight when the AC compressor froze up. I have 240,000 miles on it, so paying hundreds to replace the compressor on what has been a week a/c unit anyway is not going to happen. I was 20 miles from home when this happened and my car ran fine all the way home, except for the power steering not working. Is there an easy fix? Can I just drive it as it is for very long? Can I get a belt that will just make the power steering work? Will the heater still work in the winter?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,013
    edited September 2011
    So your AC and power steering work off the same belt? Well you'll have to come up with some kind of fix, because you can't use the steering without power assist--you'll end up ruining the box or linkage eventually.

    The AC fix is more than a matter of just a compressor because when it seizes, it throws metal debris throughout the system. So your AC system is totaled and would cost way more than just a compressor.

    However, if you could find a used compressor merely to serve as a pulley system--one that won't seize but may be old and tired, that's a good solution for everything. Since AC compressors have a clutch, all you're doing is running the pulley part of the compressor, dis-engaged from anything...so it won't hurt fuel mileage, etc. Just leave the electrical connector off when you install the "new" used compressor.

    And yes, your heat should work okay.

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  • I have a 1995 Protege stick shift w/ 164k mi everything works fine, except for this problem. (There are no lights on the dash of any kind aka the car runs great, [non-permissible content removed] perfectly, and everything else works great.) I have no air flow...PERIOD...the blower motor has continuity (so no blown fuse), and the main fuse in the fuse panel is not blown. I pulled out the HVAC control unit out, and everything looks to be connected properly (as far as I could tell). WHAT ON EARTH COULD THIS BE?! Anyone have an idea?
  • Hello cmr52305, I am having the same issue with my Mazda Protege. I was wondering if you have fund the answer to your questions. I am in a state of confusion. I have sent it to so many shops and same answer just more money. Please can you or any one else help me find the answer to this long waiting question.
  • I have a 1996 mazda protege LX 175+ miles on it. My parking break seems to be staying on all the time, even without the parking break engaged. Any suggestions on what is causing it before I take in, I like having some idea what's going on before I talk to the so called pros.
  • I have a Protege es 2002 and I notice that same rattle but I am being told that my upper cat converter needs to be changed. Crazy cause my car runs great but I did change intake hose, o2 sensor, coil, spark plugs and cleaned MAF and other sensors. I don't hear it all the time and I checked the oil, anti-freeze so I'm starting to think it is my cat converter. Hopefully that will not be your problem.
  • Thanks! I will take it and have them check that. My car runs with no problems other than the noise, which is annoying. This past year I had my injecors flushed,o2 sensors and a few other sensors replaced. The car only has 105k miles on it and I've kept up with all the maintenance, did they say what causes the upper cat to go bad?
  • I was on my way to school and all of a sudden I lost power. The car still drives but it has a lack of power and seems to be sputtering when I stop. Still seems to shift fine, sort of feels like an engine problem. Any ideas of what could cause this lack of power and acceleration?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    edited October 2011
    all of a sudden I lost power. The car ... has a lack of power and seems to be sputtering when I stop.

    A common problem for Proteges is an EGR failure causing the car to stutter or "gasp" for air. The EGR valve is part of the emission system of the car; on my 2002 Protege it was located towards the top of the engine. The fix for a faulty EGR is either cleaning or replacement.

    TIP: Since there can be other causes for this problem, you may want to have a diagnostic done before starting to replace parts.
  • I am having trouble with our 93 protege with 208K miles staling out. It usually starts right up, and then you will be driving it and the rpms go wacky on the gauge and the engine will stall out. It sometimes starts back up but usually it acts like it doesn't want to start then you have to push the gas to the floor to get it to start. It might take a few attempts before it will stay running. It has a new fuel pump and filters? It doesn't do it all the time but you never know. It wouldn't do it for my mechanic when he drove it. It has been doing it everyday this past week? Any suggestions ?
  • mazzy3mazzy3 Posts: 1
    once the car warms up, she seems to loose acceleration power. i've had the catatytic convertor cleaned, not the problem. brought her back and had they said these cars are known for mass air flow cylinder(i believe) problems. this got cleaned and still not the problem. then the spark plugs got changed and i was assured she worked now, but once the car got warm same problem> stop at a light and no power at all once i accelerated> then once i got going at around 60 kph started sputtering and loosing powr again> any suggestions before i spend any more money?
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