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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • lazonavlazonav Posts: 3
    Did you get your problem resolved? If so, what was it?

    I had my mufler worked on and the same thing happened to me, but my car won't start at all.">link title
  • Hi all, I'm at my wits end and very stubborn about taking my vehicle into a shop to get it fixed but running out of options. '99 Protege emits a loud "creaking" noise (like that of a coffin opening in old horror movies!) when steering wheel turn form left to right. It is coming from the suspension somewhere but not sure exactly what is doing it. First thought it was the control arm bearing but not 100% sure. Car does not have to be in motion for it to occur, wondering if anyone has a had same problem and fixed? Thanks!
  • Nevermind, I found it......just a sway bar link, replaced 3 of the four last year, was told it was still good......guess not!
  • I bought my 2000 Protege about 4 months ago with 20,000 miles on it. It ran great for about the first month that I had it and then it developed this weird problem that keeps getting worse and worse.

    Basically, if I drive it and then turn it off, I cannot physically turn it back on for at least an hour. I don't know much about cars so excuse my lack of auto-jargon, but it turns over when i turn the key but nothing happens, the car doesn't actually turn on. i've been told it's a problem with the fuel injection, i've been told it's the radiator, i've been told that it's overheating, i've been told that it's this and that... agh! but anyhow, now it's getting to the point where i can be sitting in traffic and it just shuts down on me and it WILL NOT turn back on, leaving me stuck in a turn lane or something. i've been told that it's overheating, but the coolant gage has never read more than half way in between hot and cold... does anyone have any suggestions???

    i desperately need help, i know i paid too much for this car and now it's getting to the point where i'm afraid to drive it... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • I'm only guessing because it sounds similar to a problem we had,maybe the timing belt?
  • harbihoharbiho Posts: 8
    I had the same problem with my 99 Protege.

    It turned out to be the Camshaft Position Sensor.
  • I took my car to the shop and the Air Flow Sensor was dirty. After they cleaned it out, my car has ran fine and has not given me any problems. :D
  • My 02 Protege has been having similar problems. I need to keep my foot on the gas for the first 1 minute or so, as it the RPMs are very low and it will die at idle. After a minute or so, the RPMs suddenly go to normal, and the car drives fine all day. No engine light comes on. It's just in the morning that it wants to die on me. I had it into the dealership a month ago for the EGR valve to be replaced. My local mechanic can't figure it out. The only thing that he was able to find was a idle air control valve that was malfunctioning, but that doesn't seem to have been the problem. :mad: I hate to throuw $$$ at a problem that's only there for 1 minute every morning, but Murphy's Law says that it will only get worse. Any thoughts?
  • It would be good to get one of the maintenance books from a parts store.
    I got the Haynes from an Autozone store. In front of the book it has a trouble shooting section and I think it mentions the problem that you are having. I don't have the book with me or I would look for you, but it list the parts to check that could be causing the problem.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The entire factory workshop manual for the protege/protege5 is online in pdf format. Go to
  • just to upadte ... check engine light came on after day or two, I took it to the dealership and they ran diagonistic.. it came out EGR needed to replaced... got it done 3 days far all looks good.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    There seem to be quite a few people reporting EGR failures both on the Protege and Protege5 boards. Personally, I had mine replaced in June and a colleague at work had hers done earlier.

    Is there some kind of preventative service that could be done to prevent these types of failure? For example, would annual cleaning of the throttle body help in this regard?
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    I seem to avoid the recurring clogged EGR valve CEL when I use Shell gas. They claim to use more detergent in their gas than most others. It seems to work for me.

    You could also put in fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel additive that adds detergents.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    You could also put in fuel injector cleaner or some other fuel additive that adds detergents.

    Have you used these in your vehicles? I've heard that they have a very limited cleaning effect.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    But I've not used any with our newer cars ('99 ProLX and '03 P5).

    I can't say that I really noticed much difference with the 323LX. I think using good-quality gas probably works better because it's always in your tank, unlike the additive products, which I didn't put in with every tankful. I think it works out to be cheaper too.
  • The car drives and accellerates fine. Once i reached a speed around 40-65 and slightly let off the gas pedal the car starts to hesitate, if I push down on the pedal it stops, if I pull my foot off the pedal completly it stops. It only does it when I let off the pedal slightly, and at driving speeds. It doesn;t happen at low speeds, or when accelerating, or when letting off the pedal completly. I have replaced the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. The car drives fine under accelaration or when I let off the pedal completely..Any help,,,please??? Ray
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    What codes come up in the diagnostic?
  • No codes come up...any suggestions??
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    It not just the Protege that can have problems with a malfunctioning EGR system. A quick search showed all types of vehicles from many different makes with the same dilemma.

    Many people just replace the gunked up EGR valve and wire brush the port opening. This is what I did. My valve was only $78 for the '95 Protege (Borg Warner) and replacement was quite easy.

    You can also clean out the black carbon in the valve with carb cleaner. Many people do this, especially if the new valve is expensive.

    You are also supposed to clean out carbon build-up in the ports that connect to the EGR valve. This probably varies by engine with regards to the susceptibility of port clogging. So far (160k-200K), my Protege seems to do fine with just the new EGR valve and no chemical port cleaning.

    Here is one auto service company that advertises a chemical cleaning after removing the valve:

    A Chevy dealer online lists EGR port cleaning at $180.00. Too steep for my old car!

    Cleaning the carbon build-up off the throttle plate is good preventative maintenance. I try to do it with air filter changes. That said, I don't think doing this service will stop exhaust gas carbon build-up in the EGR system.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Many thanks for your suggestions and guidance, Joe.
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