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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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  • I TOOK THE BATTERY OF MY CAR AND PUT IT BACK ON (ONLY FOR 30 SEC) AND TURN THE CAR ON AND IT WONT START ( NO CLICK) WHEN I STOP CRANKING IT, THE CAR CLICKS WHENEVER I TURN ON ANYTHING ELECTRICAL.
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  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I feel my '95 Protege is a good car in most regards, except for the tires.

    The original set did fine for 55K miles. The next two sets of mid to upper level Bridgestones (Turanza and BT-70s ) each lasted about 50-60K miles before some sort of failure (sidewall or very uneven wear). The treadwear warranties for the two sets were lifetime and 70K.

    Being frustated with $70 tires not lasting nearly as long as promised, I went with the low end LeMans 40K tires two years (28K miles) ago. So I am in the shop today for a rotation and they tell me the back tires are not in that great of shape. They don't want to rotate and try to sell me some new tires. I passed on the new tires, drove the car home, and inspected the tires. Sure enough, the back two tires have uneven wear with more wear on the outside edge. This was never mentioned previously by the tire shop in the last 3 rotations.

    I have done all the typical stuff like an alignment when the tires were put on and rotations every 5-7K miles. The car tracks straight and there are no tire vibration issues. Any ideas on uneven wear?

    I do plan on dumping Bridgestone and going with some higher end Michelin or Goodyear tires in the next year. And even though I have a lifetime alignment agreement with this shop, I still plan on going elsewhere.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    low end LeMans 40K tires two years (28K miles) ago
    That does sound premature but you may still be able to get a couple of thousand more out of them.

    each lasted about 50-60K miles

    How long do the tires last on your Olds?
    Personally, tires that last close to 100K km (60K miles) sound pretty good. Many in the Protege5 forum have complained abut tires that have not lasted half that long. Also, the rubber in tires degrades over time no matter whether they are driven or not. So keeping a tire for beyond five years may be risky. Did the sidewall failure you mention happen on an old tire?
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    The General Tires on our Olds minivan are junk and have been since almost new. The issue here is vibration at 35-40mph. Again, all proper rotations were done, tire balancing, etc. GM didn't want to help. We are at 58K miles(5 years) on those tires and they will be replaced with better tires this fall.

    Looking through my records, it seems the most I get out of a set of tires on the Protege is 3 years or 55-57K miles. The sidewall failure occurred at 3 years. They gave me credit for the tire because it had lifetime treadwear warranty, but of course, I had to replace in twos and no credit for the other. I now have little faith in treadwear warranties.

    I know other aspects of independent suspensions can come into play with regards to uneven tire wear. Side to side play in struts was mentioned on one post I read. I previously assumed that a proper 4 wheel alignment and wheel balancing would be sufficient. Maybe this in not the case, at least with independent suspension vehicles.

    I'm considering the Michelin Harmony tires as many people say they last a long time and work well. Maybe I need to rotate my own tires every 3K miles? I have the air tools, I only need a quick floor jack to speed things up. I'm just very frustated with tire shops that want to continually sell you new tires.

    Joe
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i'd have to agree with autonomous, anything 55-60K, you are doing something right! i cannot ever remember in almost 30yr of driving doing much better.

    an 80K tire? I'd feel good getting 40-50K out of them.

    FWIW: i have a used '02 accord with harmonys. i like them. i've put maybe 25K on them (don't know how many were on them to begin with). i think they're good for another 20-25K.
  • i was changing the belt on my 99 pro lx 106000 and i hit a piece i later discovered was the cam position sensor ... just wonder is that the reason my car wont start now or could have been something i did fixin the belt and what is the sensor anyway.
  • TRY USING LUCAS FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER AND UPPER CYLINDER LUBRICANT.I'VE USED THAT ONCE OR TWICE A MONTH AND I'VE ALWAYS USED 93 OCTANE GAS SINCE I BOUGHT MY 99LX NEW AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHAMP.
  • I HAD THAT PROBLEM AND IT WAS MY FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR WAS LOOSE.
  • i too have the problem with the click click noise on my car when i started it up. and this is after i just got the battery replaced. The hazard lights were blinking too. The mechanic pulled out a relay and it stopped, but my dashboard lights don't come up now. I think he screwed it up when replacing the battery. Do you know what could have gone wrong? this a 98 mazda protege.
    any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • i figured out the problem. i cleaned the battery post till they were cleaned with a stainless steel brush and its been good since then
  • I had that same "clicking no start" problem about 2 years ago, which was due to the buildup around the battery posts. In my case, I've had to re-clean the posts every 4 to 6 months, otherwise the problem returns.
  • i have a 99 pro lx and i noticed on cold rainy days my car hesitates to accelerate only sometimes and it was the weirdest thing. so one day by chance i wenr to spray my squealing belts with belt dressing and i noticed that the a/c pulley was hesitating to turn ( i think its the a/c pulley cause it cycles on and off anf moves in and out). and i could smell smoke like burning rubber i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    Squealing is generally caused by slipping belts. I have noticed this on my Protege on rainy days and/or immediately after driving through good sized puddles. Have you checked the belt deflection? It is sort of a pain to do with this car.

    I put new belts on according to specs., but I think that they stretch a bit and hence the ocassional slipping. I need to get back under there and recheck. Funny, I did not have this problem with the last set of belts which were Gates. My current set is some no-name brand.

    As far as the A/C pulley, I think the A/C compressor clutch should allow it to freewheel when off and quickly engage when on. There should not be a burning rubber smell caused by belt slippage.

    My A/C compressor clutch started to fail at 7 years/150K miles. The clutch started to make a squealing noise that was very noticable. The independent shop said that they could not get a new clutch by itself, so I go a new compressor and clutch combo. Around $550 for the new parts and labor.
  • sambo4sambo4 Posts: 22
    I'd have to agree with jrdwyer that the burning smell is unlikely a squealing belt.
    I have to re-adjust my belt every fall/winter otherwise it begins to squeal. (In the rain/cold, and whenever I have 2 or more things on at once, like the defroster, wipers, heater or A/C, etc.) Once adjusted properly it lasts about a year or so.
    I have a 2000SE 1.6L, with 500K kms, and have only replaced the belts twice ( every 3 years).
    There are 2 bolts. First loosen the bolt on the alternator.
    Then, there is an adjusting bolt, about 3 inches long.
    After you adjusted that bolt, re-tighten the alternator bolt.
    It's trial and error,so you may have to try a few times before you get it right.
  • My 96 Protege has had a few problems, now it seems to hesitate. I'm thinking that the fuel filter needs to be replaced. Where is the fuel filter? Just had a new Mass air flow sensor installed and plugs and air filter and lube and oil change. Hopefully you can tell me where the fuel filter is, this is a manual transmission. Any help greatly appreciated since I just spent alot of money on it already.
    Thank you :cry: :sick: :confuse:
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    The fuel filter is on driver's side of firewall about half way down. It not an easy spot to get to from above, especially the hose on the bottom of the filter. If doing it from above, you will have to take the air filter box out to gain good access.

    Hesistation can also be caused by one or more spark plug wires being bad. This is very common on the Protege. You can check the wire resistance with a voltmeter to see if one is bad before buying a new set. I went with Bosch plug wires with a lifetime warranty. Also check and/or replace the distributor cap and rotor when doing plug wires.

    The Haynes Repair Manual is pretty good for the Protege and libraries often have it.
  • jrdwyerjrdwyer Posts: 168
    I got under the car today and found the alternator belt a little loose. For my '95, it is supposed to be app. 1/4 inch minimum deflection. It was about 3/8" deflection, so I tightened it. This should stop the ocasional belt squeek.

    I looked at the replacement A/C compressor (still good after 4 1/2 years) and noticed that it is a Sanden TRS090 Scroll (model #4953). Too bad it not a regular piston compressor, because Sanden makes a lot of replacement parts for this type.
  • Here is something I discovered that works for me: Use "valve grinding compound" ( not "belt conditioner" ) to stop belts from squealing
  • engine whistles like a tea pot seems to lag a bit behind rpms dissapears for a moment when the throttle first opened up
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