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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rboetsmarboetsma Posts: 2
    Motor mounts were shot replaced with AWR racing mounts. Alternator was running constantly because of bad battery and to much power draw from my stereo system. Fixed.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    alternator running constantly? i've never known one not to when the engine is running. you think your vehicle's systems are being run exclusively off the battery?

    i think not.

    perhaps you meant your alternator was being ruined constantly because of a bad battery and too much power draw from your stereo.

    that i could see. :shades:
  • irish1984irish1984 Posts: 1
    Every time i slow down for a stop sign my car idle goes to about 0 and it starts to jerk like it wants to turn off and sometime it does turn off on me. the only way i stop it from turning off on me is i put it on neutral and give it gas.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    then it's possible it needs to have the idle parameters relearned, or the idle on the intake adjusted, or perhaps a new idle air control / bypass valve.

    then again, you could have other problems. hard to say.
  • I am having a problem with my 99 Mazda Protege transmission engaging after the car has sat overnight. It only does it in the morning. Most recently the OD light has started flashing and doesn't stop until the car transmission fully engages. I took it in to a transmission dealer today and he did a diagnostic and found no code errors. Plus once it is warmed up there is no more problem until the next long period of time sitting. I am planning to drive the car back to Alaska from MN and do not want to start on a trip of this magnatude without resolving this problem. It seems like something is restriction the fluid flow, maybe a gumming problem. Any suggestions?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    is the level of fluid good? there is a temp sensor for the tranny i think, maybe it is marginal.
  • The fluid level and appearance is good. Where is the sensor and would it require a lot of labor to replace it?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    unfortunately, i can't answer that. sorry.
  • how hard is it to change a water pump on a 97 mazda protege lx
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    I also have a 1995 Mazda Protege with low miles this car is a manual. I replaced the water pump the thermostat and the head gasket but the car still acts up. the water is not flowing through the radiator and the water hoses are getting tight with air. What should I do...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Is it safe to assume when you replaced the waterpump, that you also replaced the radiator hoses (ie. no collapsed lower rad hose).

    I don't know whether your radiator fins are vertical or horizontal on that car, but when you take the radiator cap off, can you see the ends of the fins....and do they look clean (ie. not all gunked up which would restrict coolant flow thru the radiator).

    Is there an air purge screw on your thermostat housing (ie. no air block in the engine).

    If you still aren't getting flow, I'd pull the thermostat out completely, and then verify that you have good coolant flow thru the radiator even at low temperature.
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    In regards of the Mazda protege

    No i didn't replace the hose. But i did put a new head gasket on ,but i bought an 1.8 and just recently found out that the engine size is a 1.5 could that be the reason it wont crank.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    oooooppsss....

    Check your parts house, and see whether it's the same or different part number for the different engines.

    When you took the head off, did you look to match up the gasket against the original?
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    Yes, i did match it up and it matched perfectly, but the hose stills gets tight and it wont crank. What is the problem???????/
  • I just put a used air compressor on my 2001 mazda protege DX.
    Well today it would not shift into overdrive, the battery light came on, and then the air conditioner stopped blowing cold air.

    But as soon as I started slowing down to make
    a turn back onto the rd. I live on the battery light went off and the air started working again.

    So I decided to drive it around a little more and when I got back on the main highway and started picking up speed it started doing the same thing all over again. As long as I drive about 20 to 35 miles an hour it's fine but when I try to go faster it will not shift to overdrive the battery light comes back on and the air stops blowing cold air.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated alot.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You didn't mention in your first post that the engine wasn't turning over. Symptoms were overheating. Your engine not cranking is a totally different problem than overheating.

    Do I understand your symptom is when you hit the starter, it is not able to turn the crank of the engine?

    If so, then it is possible that you put the head back on and the timing is off. When the starter is turning the crank and pushing the piston up into the cylinder during the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve needs to open to get the air out of the cylinder. If your timing is off, then when the piston tries to move up the exhaust valve is closed, the air has no place to go, and it puts too much resistance against the starter.

    Alternatively, if there is a leak of coolant into the cylinder during the compression stroke, that will stop the crank as well. Fluid can't be compressed.

    Did you align the marks when putting it back together?
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    SO do u think i should just get a new head, or is it another problem. The timing was set. Can u just tell me exactly what i need to do to fix the problem. Its a stick it will crank but once u let your foot off the gas it will shut off, and the radiator hose gets really tight.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,422
    Try tightening your drive belts.

    MODERATOR

  • My 2002 Mazda Protege had air conditioning service done at the dealership just a month ago. More freon was added and the system was checked for leaks. Besides having to add more freon, the dealership stated there was nothing wrong.

    I now notice that when I'm driving, the air seems to lose a bit of pressure and then come back. I notice a slight decrease in temp as well when this happens. Also, while driving, when the air starts acting up, it feels like my car accelerates a slight bit and then goes back to normal. When I'm at idle and I have the air problem, I'll step on the gas and it feels like the car wants to jump out of its body.

    The temp isn't what bothers me most, its the slight acceleration then decelaration of the car while driving at a steady speed. Any idea on what this could be? I had someone tell me it could be the compressor.
  • jcbourgjcbourg Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My 1997 Mazda Protege was rear-ended last week. The left corner of the rear bumper got punched in when the driver behind me tried to pass me in a right turn-off lane. Since that accident has occured I've noticed that the car's electrical circuit indicator (the battery) frequently lights up for about half an hour and then turns off. Could this be caused by the accident or is it a separate event?

    Thanks
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