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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • toswalttoswalt Posts: 1
    What did you ever find to be the problem with this?
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    I have a Mazada Protege' 01 and i am looking to replace the Cam Sensors, it keep bucking and dying out suddenly. From a Diag. it is my CAM Sensors is this a hard fix that will require a mechanic knowledge.

    Thanx
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Harbiho,
    Did you fix that cam sensor your self? I have an 01 Mazada that is doing that to me and that is what the Diag. determined it to be also. Was that difficult?? was just wondering.
    Thanx in advance for any thing you can provide also.
  • pmp3pmp3 Posts: 3
    Looking for some DIY help on my 1995 Mazda Protege, 1.5L automatic, with 35,000 miles.

    A couple weeks ago got the CEL and have noticed a poor idle and poor accelaration once the car warms up. Since the car is a 1995, haven't been able to get the Autozone-like places to read the diagnostic codes. Have done the following: Change Oil/Filter, New air filter, inspected air intake boot and vacuum lines for leaks, replaced PCV valve, spark plugs, and upstream O2 sensor. No improvement w/ any of those actions.

    Poor acceleration is typically at low speeds - car seems to run ok at higher speeds, although some hesitation noticed in the 40 mph range. Need some street smarts on how to dissociate other possible problems: ERG valve?, Mass Air Flow sensor?, spark plug wires?, O2 sensors?, etc. There was a posting about jumpering some wires inside the diagnostic box under the hood to read the computer codes by observing the CEL flashes - but that didn't work. Trying to do my best at not having to take it to the Mazda dealership for obvious reasons.

    Also, about 2 months or so ago had a bad-gas experience w/ alot of water from a Shell station; at that time, mechanic emptied gas tank, flushed lines, replaced fuel filter, etc. When finished, car ran great. Not sure if theres a link here because if had been running fine for over a month.

    Please advise.
  • I'm new here and after looking in the forum didn't really find this topic. I have a 2001 Protege with 61K miles on it. I just took it in for it's 60K checkup and I was told to change the timing belt soon. My question is that I was also told that I should replace the cam seals becasue they can leak and I'd just end up spending more money later if they do. Does anyone have any opinions or suggestions on the matter? Thank you!
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    EGR is a good possibility, I'd pull it of and inspect for carbon buildup. If it's clearly stuck partially open, I'd replace the valve.
  • cpljohngcpljohng Posts: 1
    My 2002 protege did the same thing after four months of trying things i found that the EGR valve was sticking causing the car to quit at idle and had problems starting at times ,took EGR valve out took it apart and cleaned it out .beats paying 300 for new one . car works like new
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Thanx Braja,
    I will have to take a look at that I got me some New Plugs and I am going to try that and then maybe some wires also.

    Was it hard to work with that EGR that you speak about??

    I appreciate the input also..
    Frankie
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Thanx alot Pmp3 I will have to take a look at the EGR also. By the WAY what does EGR stand for...

    Thanx again.
  • downtubedowntube Posts: 43
    EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation

    It allows exhaust gas to flow into the intake manifold (recirculate) during certain operating conditions. Purpose is to control the amount of oxygen in the cylinder for combustion. Reduced oxygen lowers combustion temperature, reducing the amount of NOx created.
  • pmp3pmp3 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice on the EGR valve. I did pull it (tough job due to small work area) and found lots of carbon. Rather than replace it, I spent about an hour cleaning it by hand, along with the ports on the intake manifold. Reinstalled ... but didn't solve my problem.

    Bit the bullet and took it to the Mazda dealership who ran the diagnostics on it - "misfire on 3rd cylinder." Turned out that the spark plug wire on the 3rd cylinder was bad; i had inspected the wires (and replaced plugs), but didn't notice there was a small crack on the "boot" that fits inside the engine cavity (that you don't typically see). Replaced wires and car runs great!
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hey Pmp3, Got that Mazad issue fixed!! come to find out it was my Cam Sensor wiring vs my Cam Shafter i had brought some Plugs and a Cam shaft Sensor. But maybe that may have been next. Any way all is well and I am back on the road again... Hopefully for another 150,000 miles Peace

    Frankie
  • manishsmanishs Posts: 1
    I had a problem last week with my Mazda protege 94 car. It had been making a sqealing noise past 3 months and especially when it was very cold/snow outside and when I turn the heater on. Just yesterday my car broke in the middle of the road and would not start again, as if the battery was down and would not restart. I had it jumpstart but again it broke within a mile. Then I brought it to the garage and they said battery is down and they replaced it with a new one, although the old battery was only 1 year old.
    After an hour or so, I noticed that the red indicator light was still on, so I called again. This time they said that the alternator belt is not working and thus I would need a new belt which would cost $ 90 with labor. They said that because of this the previous battery was not working and we had to replace. I wanted to ask you all and would appreciate you comments, whether replacing the battery was worth it or I could have used the same if I had figured out the belt problem earlier. Thanks very much and would appreciate your reply.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    This shop sounds very suspicious to me. Immediately diagnosing a battery bad without actually testing the charging system is not the quality of a good repair shop. And now, they want to replace the belt. Still have not checked the charging system? And when the belt doesn't fix the problem, then they go to replacing the alternator. You have then paid for a battery you didn't need and a belt you might not have needed. Find an honest repair shop and don't patronize this place anymore. They sound like they just want to gouge you for as much as possible before actually getting to the real problem. A bad belt would have been quite obvious.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    diagnosing a battery bad without actually testing the charging system is not the quality of a good repair shop.
    Agreed. Whether the garage did this intentionally or due to incompetence, it would be better to take one's business elsewhere. On the other hand, a diagnostic test is not going to be free either. So, the lesson learned is that one ends up paying one way or another.
  • Estivalis - In terms of the timing, I would probably have that changed. It is a quick change and does give you piece of mind. Find out if there are worn spots on it or not. If the dealership doesn't say or they "can't remember", you can feel for yourself. What I did was put a white mark on the belt for a reference point. Then, feel under the belt to see if any wear spots where grooved belt should be.

    I had a dealership where I was getting recommendations to fix something different every time I came in. When they told me about the belt, I thought they were lying, but I felt the belt where the grooves are and did feel some wear spots, so that one they were telling the truth. :D

    In terms of the seals, I would find out how much it costs to change them. My wife's Protgeg has almost 70,000 miles on it and never heard of this type of seal before. Or, take it some place else and get their opinion.

    Hope this helps.
    Dave
  • tocapettocapet Posts: 1
    Went to replace the left front motor mount on my '99 Protege and found that the ear on the transmission housing where the motor mount bracket bolts up is broken off. The top bolt was missing completely. So now I can only bolt it up with one bolt instead of 3. I can see my torque converter thru the hole. Anyone know where I can find a '99 transmission housing? Or if the converter housing comes off even better.
  • green86green86 Posts: 1
    Do you know where the upper crank positioning sensor is located, I found the lower one but i can't seem to find the other, Is there one?
    I have two codes that are coming up on my car, P0300 ( Rapid cylinder Misfire) and P0421
    I am debating on what to do, no one seems to know, i don't want to change a sensor and then it not be the right one, then there goes 120 bucks.
    My car cuts out on me when driving down the road, engine light flashes for a minute then goes solid, then i get power again.
    Any suggestions?

    Thanks
    green86
  • mnjlargemnjlarge Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Mazda Protege ES 2.0.......and I replaced the engine about 1 year ago. The newer engine had about 36000 miles on it. Ever since we replaced the engine on it.......it has had a idle problem and is now starting to have an acceleration problem. When I come to a stop, the idle speed will go down to about 500 and then usually go back up. When this happens, it will have a little hesitation when accelerating. No problems at high speeds. My CEL came on the other day and my friend read the code and it said "lean exhaust" so he cleared it for me and the next morning it came back on. When we installed the engine, we replaced the plugs and did a small tune up on it. It also seems to be having some transmission problems like troble shifting. I need some help trying to figure out the problem.
  • debbi1229debbi1229 Posts: 17
    Green86 - I'm not sure if the codes on an '01 MP3 & an '03 Protege 5 are the same or not but when I was having CEL issues, I was getting the same codes but the P0300 was a Random Misfire and the P0421 was a Catalytic Converter code.

    My car cuts out on me when driving down the road, engine light flashes for a minute then goes solid, then i get power again.

    My car did the exact same thing as you're describing - replacing the plugs, wires and most importantly... the coils solved my issues. A little too late to save me from having to replace my CAT though....

    I hope this helps you with your problem... good luck.

    Debbi
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