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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair



  • yangkryangkr Posts: 1
    I bought a used car from a Mazda dealer shop in Austin (December, 2000).

    Air filter is soaked whenever it rains relatively heavy. (Of course,it is already soaked while parked in front of my place before driving)
    I would have to take out the filter to be dried each time it happen.. But, it doesn't always work. Of course, I would have to stop running the vehicle when seeing the engine warning signal and/or smelling engine burns while driving.

    Finally, this early morning my car stop on the way to school. I was so much scared..

    Just wonder how the water leaks through the air filter container box when it rains.

    Would anyone have any similar problems to mine? Also, any comments or advices are welcome. Thanks.
  • protegecpeprotegecpe Posts: 10
    No, the deealer said they need 3 hours (about 200$) to find out the problem.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I remember reading somewhere that if the fender was replaced and not properly sealed with body caulking, it could channel water right into the air box. I think it only happens when the vehicle is parked at a particular angle.

    What to do:
    Park the car where you normally do. Take a hose and turn it on with a slow flow going over the top of the fender and hood. Then lift the hood and look to see where traces of water have gone. You should be able to trace it and seal the proper areas.

  • mpshutempshute Posts: 6
    Anyone know the trick to remove the rear wheel cylinder's on this car. After removing the wheel, there are two screws on the cylinder which I removed. Have not had any success removing it after doing this. The only other thing I can think of is there is a small cap that looks like it could be removed, maybe providing access to another nut of some kind but I don't think this would be probable. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as I'm trying to avoid purchasing the $115 manual from the dealer! Thanks,

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    just those two bolts.... Give the cylinder a few light taps with a hammer to loosen any rust and should come right off. You have removed the brake shoes, right? Also that small cap on the back is the cover for the bleeder screw. If you aren't sure what that is, I suggest you seek some help from an enlightened friend.

    Also, factory shop manuals are worth every bit of the $100 they cost. NEVER waste your time with a Chilton's or Haynes.

  • dhkchengdhkcheng Posts: 6
    Hello, I have a 2000 Protege LX (Canadian Car) with the
    Bridgestone Potenza RE92 (195/55.15) tires. After about
    3500KM of use the tires started to develop whine between
    50KPH to 80KPH. Has any other owners of Proteges reported
    simular issues with these tires? The whining was not that bad
    during the winter, but now that it is summer, the whining is
    getting alot worse.

    Thanks in advance.
    David Cheng
    Belleville, Ontario
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    ...I. have talked to says the Potenzas are noisy. Maybe that's why the 2001s are coming with Dunlops.

  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    My wife drives 2000 ES (Auto) that now has about 9K miles on it. The fuel economy has been bad to terrible since the day one. At t5he beginning I thought that after breaking in the car it would improve. Well 9K seems enough to me. When complained earlier this year, the dealer said that it's because of the "winter" gasuline here in Northern CA (SF Bay Area) and that nothing is wrong. True - MTBE and other oxygenates decrease the MPG figure, but not to that extent I believe.
    Now the fuel is not "winter" type and the car is still doing 22 MPG on 70% city 30% hwy driving.
    And she's not a heavy foot by all means. Tried different gas - almost no difference (Chevron seems to be the best btw). Before the last oil change I used a bottle of Techron injector cleaner - didn't help.

    I thing that's horrible for such a car (EPA 24-29).

    What do you guys think? Anybody from Northern CA to share their numbers?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    There are so many factors that affect mileage.

    What speed does she drive on the highway?
    Does she vary the throttle excessively when cruising?
    Quick starts?
    A/C or defrost on all the time?
    Very hilly terrain?

    My suggestion would be to swap cars and run a tank of gas through there on your own.

  • dhkchengdhkcheng Posts: 6
    Has any other Protege owner tried running on a higher octane fuel
    then the 87 octane recommended in the owners manual? and if so,
    did you have any problems using the higher octane fuel?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572 that my $20 doesn't take me as far. Other than that, tank up all you want, it's your money.

  • nematodenematode Posts: 448
    I have a 01 ES 2.0 and the very first tank resulted in 27mpg 80-90% highway at 60-70mph. I posted about this in the regular Protege forum.
  • dannygdannyg Posts: 131
    FYI, my mother's 99 LX auto gets about 35-36MPG in 80% hwy 60-65MPH, no A/C.

    Doesn't have the HP of the ES, but the MPG isn't bad...
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The best MPG that I have got was 33 mpg and the worst was 26 mpg. I usually average around 28 MPG with a lot of city driving. I have a 5sp 2.0L ES by the way.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    maltb: there are the answers to your questions:
    1. Usually 60-65mph
    2. No, she's driving pretty much with a constant speed (dosn't use the cruise though).
    3. Quick starts - Usually waits a minute or so before pull off the parking lot. (but there aren't any really cold conditions here anyway)
    4. No AC yet (the heat just started), occasional use of the defroster (as a defogger - no frost here) in the winter
    5. Not a hilly terrain (I used to live in SF before, but I drove an escort back then :) )

    So what do you think ?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Try a different dealer. Something is not right. Does the vehicle exhibit any other problems? Misfire? Rough idle? Exhaust fumes that burn the hair out of your nose?

    How many different times did you calclate mileage and what method did you use?

  • My 99 ProES gives approx. 28 MPG in northern CA (bay area) with abt. 60% highway , 40% city .. of course, some of the highways are worse than city streets :)

    Check your tire pressure. I have noticed a significant difference in the mileage with variations in tire pressure.
  • wjm1wjm1 Posts: 33
    No other problems as far as I can tell. Seems normal. Well in my oppinion the auto trans seems to hesitate a little (only my oppinion) and the brakes could be better for sur, but I don't think that this has anything to do with the mpg.
    Tires alignment and rotation is fine with the pressure right in the middle of specification.

    did you get this numbers from the day one or after a specific mileage. Yeah, I know what you mean about the highways. What is your recomendation for the tire pressure? What have you experienced? Share any numbers psi/mpg ?
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Posts: 435
    I know this is about a totally different car, but when I had a 1986 LeBaron GTS turbo, at one point I was getting terrible gas mileage. It turned out my thermostat was not working properly therefore screwing up the cars computer. Once I replaced the thermostat, gas mileage was fine. There are probably many different things that could be defective that would cause bad gas mileage. A few lbs of tire pressure too low will not drop gas mileage that much.
  • nematodenematode Posts: 448
    is on the rise for my ES 2.0 auto. First tank was 27.0. Second tank 27.5. 80-90% highway. It would be really nice to see 29-30mpg combined. I'm 1/2 way through tank 3 and its looks like it will be a little better better than tank 2. This tank will put me over 1000 miles so I'll start using cruise contol at 65mph instead of going 60-70mph. I bet I can kiss 30mpg combined by the time I hit 5k. I really like going 350-380 miles between tanks.
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